Numbchux

agreed. but at least you got the right one this time :-\

^^ same idea. we're not talking about making the axles themselves stronger. we're talking about the rear diff stubs. and not just by having them cryo treated, but having entire new ones made from Chromoly. although, I've got a local connection that could probably get a pretty good deal on Cryo treating if you want. they'll do anything, engine internals, tranny gearsets, etc. I guess the owner cryo treats his razor blades so they last like 10x longer...

well, PK (ozified.com) is the only one who can make them in the US.... if you lose the accord springs, and un-adjust your front end, you'll have a much softer ride, and much more suspension travel. Then you can very safely run the SJR kit without a problem SJR also makes all the parts so you can either drop just the diff, or the whole rear crossmember (BAAAD idea, if you wheel it much). so you still wouldn't have to worry about the axle angles. PK does good work, but SJR's got the better design. it's definitely worth the extra cost!

I still don't know what the noise is....

someone else will have to varify this, but I'm pretty sure you can use a clutch disc for a WRX. then an XT6 flywheel and pressure plate.

I see no issue there. like I said, the COG will effect the handling alot more than that little alignment difference. besides, if you've lifted something, and are worried about the alignment being perfect, you've got your priorities backwards. what noise?

yea, you probably could do that, but i didn't want to disassemble my motor. I knew it worked great, and didn't want to mess with it. and the gauge works fine, it just looks different.

let's see some pics of it. I can't imagine it's far enough out of wack to matter (safety wise). your higher center of gravity will be MUCH more hazardous than your alignment being off by a few degrees.

yea, but I'll take bent and mangled control arms and radius rods over swiss cheesing my framerails, thank you.

um...no, it's not. the only thing similar is the bellhousing. and the concept that it's horizontally opposed. it was completely redesigned, from the ground up. with a completely different bore/stroke ratio to any other subaru motor. the cyl. are closer together (made possible by the smaller bore).

I can't move mine by hand. and it works fine with the vacuum actuator....

yep, I've never seen anyone in North America with a hi-rise kit... I've said it before, and I'll say it again. if and when I build another EA82-based subaru, it'll be rocking an SJR 3.5" kit. PK does good work, but IMHO it's an inferior design. that leaves potential for lots of unibody damage.

I'm pretty sure all the AWD ones had the air suspension, and the FWD ones had springs.

^^yep, and I bet he could make you some 1" ones.

you could wire it in after the ECU. since you've already got the harness out, it wouldn't be too hard....I might try this next summer when I have things apart again.

maybe. if there's any binding, it won't come out immediately. if you drive it a ways in a straight line first, it'll probably come out right away....

It's a good trans, for sure. but it's not perfect. every morning I pull into the school parking lot and lean into the throttle, and spin my inside front tire......I hate to think what it'll be like on an AutoX course. I'll just have to get some real sticky tires, I guess.

that's my project for the spring. I've got a guy that used to be big into the older subarus, that thinks a mazda 323 GTX viscous locking center diff could be put into an RX trans.... but you could put an ej viscous non-locking center in one, as long as you transfer the pinion gear aswell. one of these days, I'm going to get some pictures of the fully disassembled legacy 4.111 AWD 5MT trans that I have on my workbench in the basement. that should help...

my understanding is that because the bore is larger, and the pistons are different the ratio is the same...but I don't exactly understand. you can put slightly larger injectors on and have the ecu compensate for it. it just uses the signal from the O2 sensor to determine how much fuel needs to be added, and adjusts accordingly. if the injectors are larger, it'll just reduce the voltage so the flow is the same....

a viscous center diff on a subaru 5-speed works the same as a viscous rear diff. even torque split without load, but some speed difference is possible. the auto is a whole different animal... in this thread about the RX trans, I wrote: "I just spent 4 days with the MNSubaru at the annual Ice Race event. and quickly found out that the locked center really wasn't any different than the viscous center in the EJ cars, except you don't need to unlock them when you get out on the street. AND, you have some traction control on the street. if you try to accelerate hard out of a corner on the street (center diff needs to be unlocked) you'll get unlimited wheelspin on the inside front wheel, and no traction. and with the EJ22 ... , the extra torque means it's faster to drive in hi-range, and shift less frequently also, don't let the 3.7 axle ratio fool you, the gears are much shorter, and you'll be running much higher rpm's on the freeway." also, I went wheeling with Austin about a year and a half ago, and he got high-centered with both front wheels off the ground. and the center LSD was strong enough to dig a hole under one of the rear wheels with the front wheels freewheeling... IMHO, the RX tranny is pointless unless a front LSD, taller 2-5 gears, and lower lo range are added, or it's mated to the engine for which it was designed...

not changing the compression at all (or much....anyway), just the displacement. AND, the stock EJ22e ECU is capable of compensating for quite a bit. especially if coupled with higher flow injectors.

yep. I believe the only S/R 5-speed EA82s were loyales and DLs. so if it truly is a GL, it has a D/R. the auto's were all single range though....maybe that's what you were seeing.

I assume since you say you 'finally' got it running that it wasn't running or was disassembled for some time? well, they need some time to get the oil to circulate completely. my EA82 really scared me last fall. but I let it run for about 10 minutes, and the noise had gone away... just an idea...but I don't know a lot about EA81s, so i could be wrong :-\

it does. if the engine get's warm, so does the thermostat housing...but as soon as you put rubber between the engine and the sensor, you'll lose that ability.

yep, I've heard lots of horror stories about wheel adapters. broken adapters, broken lug studs, etc. also, the offset change is really bad for your wheel bearings.