Numbchux

that would screw with your CR, and probably be weaker. actually, a thinner headgasket would probably be stronger. but, again, that would screw with your CR. although not as much, and in a better direction. I would suspect that they're interchangeable to a point. since the heads are interchangeable....you might have to cut an extra oil port in it or something, but I doubt it.

I would assume so on both accounts. there have been a number of people that bolt them to the STi 6MT. and since that's interchangeable with the 5MT....

someone just asked almost this exact same question: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70893

IIRC, the problem is the roof isn't the same dimensions. width, and the general shape. tim did it, but it was a total Pain. these are from his photo album here on the board: and the cheese grater pic:

in the grand scheme of things, 205s are very skinny tires. I had 215s on my blue wagon, and the Poopenvagon had 230s. my 4Runner has 10.5" (265mm) wide tires on it, and will be getting 12.5" (315) wides....those are getting to be some pretty fat tires. there really isn't that much option when you're talking about subarus. when you're only dealing with 27-29" tall tires, they're pretty much all skinny. you can't buy 28x12.5 on 14/15 inch tires. that'd be like a 315/55r15. for perspective. a WRX comes with 205/55r16s

you could, but you'd need to put a slip joint in the middle, otherwise you'll hyper-extend them in a heartbeat. me and a few buddies are looking at doing something like this...

yep, it's an XT6 motor. his is built to about 250 hp....but still an ER27.

well, I assume you've checked everything. that sounds like the nut on the top of the strut isn't tight enough. that happened to my dad on our caravan, our spring compressors couldn't get enough tension off the spring, so no matter how much we cranked on the nut with the impact wrench, the tophat still wasn't tight enough, and would rattle under the weight of the car. I would check that nut first. it should not be able to move, at all. even without a spring on there, the tophat should not be able to move. whatever it is, I highly doubt it has anything to do with your minor alignment issue.

I assume you are going to try it....let me know what you come up with. I'm dragging my feet on the final touches of the write-up to get some concrete info about this....

either one should work. the only difference might be driveshaft length. but I'm pretty sure sedans and wagons are the same. only the 3-door coupes are different.

nice pics. I just noticed your title, "Put up or shut up". That's the exact name of one of the trails at the park up here. I've walked by it a couple times....and let's just say, I've shut up

well, Sako's got it right, but I thought I'd post a picture. you'll need the trans, linkage, and this: that's from my old 1985 GL wagon. it's now bolted up to my 1992 Loyale. 14 bolts, and a couple fuel/brake line brackets, is all that holds that on. this can come from an Auto trannied car, but the front half of the driveshaft will be shorter. it's quite a simple swap. the tranny isn't too bad, and it's a good time to put a new clutch in there too. the rear diff hanger (or mustache bar, you can see it bolted to the back of the diff there...) has 2 brackets, with 2 bolts each, that need to be bolted to the frame rail. there are no holes there, but a drill and tap will fix that. the hardest part is the driveshaft's center carrier bearing bracket. you can also see that in the pic, right next to the middle U-joint. the little plates that that would bolt to on a 4WD car are not there on a FWD car. you could weld them there, maybe have a driveline shop make you a custom one-piece driveshaft (was quoted $150 at one shop, and $800 at another...). or, just get some metal strip, cut a couple 6" long pieces with a hole in either end, and bend it to bolt through the side of the driveshaft tunnel, and then to the bearing bracket. That's what I ended up doing, and it's worked great so far. as far as lifts. there's lots of information around here. but options are limited. Allied Armament doesn't make lifts anymore, and I've heard that PK Davis (the man responsible for making BYB/Ozified lifts here in the US) isn't making them for the time being. so that leaves you with SJR. which is ok, because he makes, by far, the best product available. you can find his lifts at http://www.sjrlift.com

yea, but if you describe the noise, we can help diagnose it, and save you some money....

I shall inquire. it may take a little while, as it's a friend of a friend....but I'll see what may be possible. I'll also see if the dealer can get new ones to start with. our local club gets a 20% discount on parts, so I'll see what kind of possibilities we see there.

agreed. but at least you got the right one this time :-\

^^ same idea. we're not talking about making the axles themselves stronger. we're talking about the rear diff stubs. and not just by having them cryo treated, but having entire new ones made from Chromoly. although, I've got a local connection that could probably get a pretty good deal on Cryo treating if you want. they'll do anything, engine internals, tranny gearsets, etc. I guess the owner cryo treats his razor blades so they last like 10x longer...

well, PK (ozified.com) is the only one who can make them in the US.... if you lose the accord springs, and un-adjust your front end, you'll have a much softer ride, and much more suspension travel. Then you can very safely run the SJR kit without a problem SJR also makes all the parts so you can either drop just the diff, or the whole rear crossmember (BAAAD idea, if you wheel it much). so you still wouldn't have to worry about the axle angles. PK does good work, but SJR's got the better design. it's definitely worth the extra cost!

I still don't know what the noise is....

someone else will have to varify this, but I'm pretty sure you can use a clutch disc for a WRX. then an XT6 flywheel and pressure plate.

I see no issue there. like I said, the COG will effect the handling alot more than that little alignment difference. besides, if you've lifted something, and are worried about the alignment being perfect, you've got your priorities backwards. what noise?

yea, you probably could do that, but i didn't want to disassemble my motor. I knew it worked great, and didn't want to mess with it. and the gauge works fine, it just looks different.

let's see some pics of it. I can't imagine it's far enough out of wack to matter (safety wise). your higher center of gravity will be MUCH more hazardous than your alignment being off by a few degrees.

yea, but I'll take bent and mangled control arms and radius rods over swiss cheesing my framerails, thank you.

um...no, it's not. the only thing similar is the bellhousing. and the concept that it's horizontally opposed. it was completely redesigned, from the ground up. with a completely different bore/stroke ratio to any other subaru motor. the cyl. are closer together (made possible by the smaller bore).

I can't move mine by hand. and it works fine with the vacuum actuator....