Numbchux

I've been running dedicated snow tires for about 15 years, and about 10 of them on at least 2 cars (since I met my wife). I've crewed for Rally teams at SnoDrift 6 years, and I've spent hundreds of hours ice racing on numerous tires. They will make a huge difference. Even the cheapest, off-brand, dedicated snow tire will perform better on snow and ice than the best all season. That said, they're not all equal, some have larger openings between lugs, better for snow (the original Winterforce, or Yokohama A034 competition tire), some have a lot of siping to grip on the ice. I live out in the country, but very rarely find myself in more than a dusting of snow beyond my driveway, so I'm concerned mostly with ice performance. Studs and chains are not legal here. IMHO, Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires cannot be beat. I've owned Qs, Rs, and 2 sets of R2s, and will be buying a set of R3s before this season is out. Michelin X-Ice and Bridestone Blizzak are close behind. Nokian is a little weird about who can distribute them, so it may take some shopping around, whereas Michelin and Bridestone can be bought just about anywhere. Beyond that I've used Cooper Weathermaster, Firestone Winterforce, Goodyear UltraGrip Ice, and General Altimax Arctic and been pretty similarly impressed. I also had a set of Falken Eurowinters, and was pretty unimpressed. Still better than an all season, but not much. I also highly recommend having a separate set of wheels. Not only does it save the cost and wear of mounting and balancing, but the hassle as well. Tire shops up here are booked out for weeks this time of year, so you either have to put your snows on early and run them in warmer temperatures than you should, or drive in the first few snows on your all-seasons. When they first forecast a decent snowfall, I spend an hour or so in the garage the night before swapping the snows onto both our cars. And I can swap them off as soon as temperatures start to warm up, and occasionally have to swap them back if we get a late spring storm. If you only run them when the ground temperatures are below about 40, they will generally last 30-50k miles.

On the newer models with the delayed dim, it is run through the Body Integrated Module. The '00-'01s (and maybe '02s, I'll know when I start digging into my "new" VDC) do not have a BIM. Retrofitting the factory system would be a big job. I think there are aftermarket circuits that can be wired in to offer that feature pretty simply.

The question is whether your Impreza has a phase 1 EJ22E or phase 2 EJ222. I think it should be an EJ222. If so, you can use the EJ203, best practice is to swap the intake manifold/wiring from the old engine to the new, and the crank and LH cam sprocket (as the tone wheels can be different for the sensors). If it's an EJ22e, you should be able to use any 2.2 back to 1990, again, swap the intake and wiring over. Your 2.2 will have single port exhaust, so you'll need a dual port manifold. The other major difference to watch for is EGR valve. I don't know the pattern to which engines did and did not have it, but if yours has it, it'll be plumbed into a port on the head. Ideally you get a donor engine with one, but if not, it can be blocked off (might be an issue if you have emissions/inspections), head drilled and tapped, or plumbed into the exhaust.

Yep, the early EJ ECUs are not different. There will be a pin labeled AT/MT Identifier. Off the top of my head, I think the AT harnesses don't have a pin there, so you'll have to remove a pin that you're not using (several for the automatic that are good) and add it to that spot, and ground it. This is not completely necessary, but it will help prevent codes, and change a few settings that improve driveability with a manual. But these are still simple enough to run pretty well if they thing they're still an auto.

Right at the pivot between strut and knuckle wouldn't take much to be off by a degree, so you may not be able to spot it, but it might be fixed with new struts. The parts counter at the Subaru dealership where I worked was right in front of the alignment rack, it wasn't uncommon for techs to ask one of us to come out and pull on a tire while they tightened the bolts to get the camber in range, because the camber bolts couldn't quite get it there. But it was always pulling the camber towards the positive, as the stock stuff was too far negative.

.8 degrees would probably require an inch of movement at the top mount....you would have other symptoms... If it's out of range of the camber adjustment, then something is bent. Control arm would be noticeably buckled before it would cause that much of a difference. Knuckle is far stronger than the strut. There are aftermarket camber bolts that can be used, either to replace the factory one, or in addition to (replace the lower bolt). Or, try a new strut.

According to Cars101, 2007 was the last year of a base Legacy wagon. That was also the death of the Outback Sedan http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2008.html When it came time to replace my mom's 2001 Legacy, we moved her into an Impreza, it's almost the exact same size as her old 1992 Legacy (her favorite car). Of course, those were Sedans, I don't think the Impreza hatch offers the same cargo area as a Legacy wagon. Only 19 more years until you can import a Levorg...

In 2004 and 2005, they added the EJ259 for California Emissions that was considerably different then the EJ251. I assume that's the PZEV version you're referring to. Any other differences between a Federal and California emission car would be small (I know on the BD/BG cars, the California cars got a 3rd Cat...stuff like that). But the EJ259 has single port exhaust similar (but not the same) to the EZ30D. Electronic throttle, and more. I would avoid that one unless it's a deal.

Yep, pretty awesome feature. Was true about some of the BD/BG models, too. I remember the day I pointed it out on my friend's '98 LGT (he's owned that car for ~12 years, maybe more). I was very disappointed when I discovered they stopped it for '04 (I now own 2 '04 Outbacks). Easy enough to swap out, though.

Wasn't super impressed with Torque Lite. My preference is the Android app "Piston"

Yep, all way over my head, but probably doable. I think what made what presslabs did very cool, was adding it into the software on the factory TCU, and still retaining the factory automatic functionality. But with microsquirt and arduinos doing what they can these days, it would probably be infinitely easier to make a standalone controller.

No, I never did. Someone pulled out in front of me and wrecked the car...still have it and would like to use it as a dedicated RallyX car, but only need 1st for that. Also, I will probably get one of these for my 4Runner transmission, I think the Nissan/GM version would control a Subaru transmission just fine, and likely could be run in parallel to the factory TCU to retain AWD function. For the record, the EJ 4-cylinder engine is at least as discontinued as the EZ 6-...Yes, the EJs are more common, but I've had no trouble getting everything I need for EZ30s. This isn't an EG33 or ER27. I've been reading a lot about capacitor failure in '90s Toyotas (to the point that I replaced the 12 caps in my 1UZ ECU as part of swapping it into my 4Runner), and my '94 Ford 351 Van. I'm kind of curious to open up some Subaru control units and see what the caps look like in those. I haven't experienced any troubles like that, though. Center diffs do fail, but it's not a terrible job to replace them (don't have to remove the transmission), and there's a guy in Europe that can rebuild them (even modify to be stronger) for a reasonable price. Yes, you can read a bunch of live data through OBD II. Definitely can't read oil pressure (there is no sensor, just the switch for the idiot light), don't think there is transmission temperature either. But you can view ignition timing, fuel trims, coolant temperature etc. I have a cheap (<$20) dongle that I tether with my phone to read a ton of information.

It's about the same time, but I don't know if it's the exact correlation. And occasionally, if a shop bought pads/rotors/calipers, they might convert the car from one system to the other without knowing.

www.car-part.com, take a look in your area. Here's the driver's side defrost vent. on the '00-'03 ones (and previous body styles), it can be flipped between sending air along the LH window or to send extra onto the windshield right in front of the driver. I'm driving a 2004 these days, and boy was I wishing I had it this morning (25*F), I'll probably steal it from my '00 parts car. 20170211_104858 by Numbchux, on Flickr Mid-2002 got a front brake size upgrade and center console change. 2004 VDCs all have on-star. All minor things that are easy enough to change (I have swapped all of those things one way or the other on all my cars), but if I were to pick one that's as close to perfect as it can be out of the box, it'd be a 2003. The FWD fuse on the MPT models is exactly for that purpose. No such function exists on the VDC ones.

The MPT cars are a FWD transmission, using a hydraulically-controlled clutch pack to send power to the rear. No pressure on that clutch, no power to the rear axle. The VTD cars have a true mechanical center diff, with spider gears, sending power to both front and rear. They use the exact same clutch discs as the MPT, but their function is only to limit slip, not as the sole transfer of torque. Example, it's very well documented with some basic wiring modification to lock up those clutch discs on an MPT car. I tried the same thing on our VDC, and cannot tell the difference. Have they failed? Is the layout so effective that it doesn't matter? I'm really not sure.

Can be done several ways. SJR makes a plate to lower the back of the diff from the mustache bar (seen in the upper middle of this picture of his kit). AA and BYB both used blocks between the mustache bar mount and the frame rail. While the axle output is so much closer to the rear mount, the biggest effect on axle angle will happen from dropping the rear mount. BUT, I didn't like the angle the diff was at in mine, so my AA-lifted EA82 and my DIY lifted Brat I spaced down the diff from the front hanger (removed the 4 studs from the bracket and replaced with longer bolts. SJR made a cool cast spacer for my EA82 years ago, but on the Brat my buddy just turned up 4 spacers from round steel stock).

I wouldn't say that, the EJ251 head gaskets leak all the time. BUT, they inherited the bad reputation of head gaskets everywhere. These VERY rarely cause overheating problems and leave you stranded, 99% of them are an external oil leak. If the oil level isn't run low, this can be put off indefinitely. I had a 2003 Outback that had seeping head gaskets when I bought it, we put 40k miles on it before fixing it and selling it. No. The extra sensors are a yaw sensor and steering angle sensor, very low failure rate. And should the system go down, it still has mechanical AWD (with an open center diff, granted) to fall back on. You'll loose ABS, VDC, and VTD functions, but it won't leave you stranded. Yes, it's the rotor thickness. All use the same housing. There was an aftermarket 12mm pump that had a new housing to make room for it. These all have the same fit.

AFAIK, all EJ251/EJ253 SOHC non turbo 2.5s have the 7mm pump. But, a WRX 10mm pump is a direct replacement for about $150. Simple during a timing belt job. Good used transmissions are very reasonable. Even for my VDC, I could get one for less than $1k. That's not enough to scrap a car, IMHO. Rebuilding a transmission is rarely worth the cost. But most of these cars that are in the junkyards are there for other reasons, so there are plenty of good used transmissions. These cars are fantastically engineered. But they're approaching 20 years old, nothing is exempt from issues, and at this age they either have a lot of miles, or a lot of sitting (and usually neglect), neither is great for a car. Some things are more likely to wear out, but I wouldn't call any of it a problem, per se. I currently own 6 BH (00-04 Wagon) Outbacks. 4 are H6s, 3 of those are VDCs, one of the H4s is a MT, only one has less than 200k miles. They all have their advantages. But I definitely prefer the VDC, the VTD AWD is so much better than a standard MPT AWD in the other AT cars. And the yaw and steering sensors included with the stability control mean the ABS is far better. The stability control doesn't let you drive sideways everywhere, but that's OK with me. My '00 H4 5MT has 335k miles, I just put an STI 11mm oil pump (a friend had a new OEM one he wasn't using, or I would have done the 10mm), and timing set on it. Needs some suspension parts, but I don't hesitate to hop in it and drive it. I plan to drive it this winter, as I prefer the extra control afforded from the MT driving in the snow and ice (I have hundreds of hours of seat time ice racing...). The H6s (especially the VDC models, which have more sound deadening/insulation) are so comfortable. They're faster, but you don't really notice it as they're smooth and quiet. The 5-speeds don't hold up to WRX owners that watch Ken Block all day and then do donuts all night. But behind a non-turbo engine with an occasional fluid change, they hold up just fine. Again, used transmissions are cheap. The H4s are plagued with piston slap, not actually anything to do with reliability, but they're rattley. H6s can have serpentine pulley bearings fail with little warning, but the bearings are about $15 each. Most H4s have had head gaskets done by now, which means they've had new valve cover gaskets, whereas the H6s probably have original ones, so they probably leak. Spark plugs kinda suck on the H6s. H4 5MT definitely don't have a oil cooler, I think the 4AT ones do. Both engines use the same cooler orings that can leak. They both use the same oil pressure switch which can leak. On technical/rocky offroad trails, the automatic is FAR superior, offering far more control and finesse. On sand, I understand automatics tend to overheat, so a manual might be better (I have zero experience with this). Basically, I'd jump on a good deal on a good example of any of these without hesitation. If price and condition were no object, it would be a 2003 VDC in Forest Green, or 2004 in Black (I love the solid black look, but not a fan of the On-star and non-adjustable LH defrost vent, but those can be changed). If I was given an 05+, I would just turn around and sell it.

Some LSDs, yes. I tried a Carbonetic clutch-type, definitely will not clear 1.59, probably not even 1.19.

Mechanically, it's basically identical. Electronically, it gets quite a bit harder. 07 might be immobilizer and CAN-BUS, it's certainly VVT. I've never tried on one of those, but there will be more wires than a '99, and it will be far more crucial that it's all hooked up correctly (things like EVAP sensors and solenoids, etc.).

I'll clarify, I LOVE my LED headlights. Considerable improvement in visibility, I've never had anyone flash their high beams at me, I've been on the receiving end of them (me in my Celica and my wife in the Outback) many times and they're completely acceptable in traffic. I don't love the 6000k color, but 4500k LEDs are CONSIDERABLY more expensive. But, I tested them back to back, I make sure my lenses are clear (a quick buff every couple years keeps them looking like new), and aimed correctly. I cannot imagine a situation where a well made and correctly installed LED in a halogen housing would scatter more light where it's not wanted than the halogen, as the light output is smaller. But, it is still important to note that they are different, and how they react with each housing will vary. A friend gave me a set of cheap H6054 LED housings, because the light output was so awful. I intend to use them on my XT6, which is never destined for street use again (and may not even get headlights). I was riding in another friend's Ford van recently, and he was bragging about how bright his new headlights were, but it didn't take long to realize they were casting light all over where it shouldn't be. These were cheap aftermarket OEM replacement housings with halogen bulbs in them. Worked out well for me, he gave me his old ones, they're just a little cloudy, and they'll fit my van, my dad's RV, and my in-laws RV... The point is, the answer is not black and white. Some LEDs work great in some halogen housings, some probably don't. Some cheap reflectors/projectors/lenses suck, regardless of light source they are using or were designed for.

Yea, the EA sending unit uses larger thread than the EJ, so can't just use it. I just wired the EJ sensor to the EA gauge, it reads low, but still useable. Or you can use a resistor to change the signal, pretty sure the information is in my write-up.

That pretty well sums it up. The point of light output on an LED is smaller than a halogen filament. If it's located correctly, this generally means you actually loose some light output. I've used a couple different brands of LEDs in the low beams on my '00 and '04 Outbacks, and I get a fantastic clean cutoff vertically, but actually loose a bit to the sides, but it's only noticeable in a back to back comparison on a wall.

About that vintage, there was a considerable warranty extension on those low beam bulbs. Give your local dealer a call, if it's the ones I'm thinking of, they'll do it for free.

Nothing I recognize. Spring clamps suggest it's in the vent line. What vehicle is this?