Numbchux

Look in your owners manual. If the remote can be programmed, the instructions will be there. I concur with GD about the immobilizer key. Get it from the dealer, and get a couple. If you have no working keys, you'll be towing the car to the dealership, paying them to remove the gauge cluster and at least one other module (not the same for every model, and even with I worked at the dealer I didn't have it memorized) to be sent into Subaru and reset. Yea...do it right the first time. The dealership I worked at charged one programming fee, didn't matter if you were programming 1 key or 3. This is not a standardized fee, though, so call your local dealership and see what they charge.

Sounds like the belt is not tight enough. It shouldn't be able to move noticeably.

Exactly right. I don't think I ever knew the pattern on what years/models had what. I think on the one with 3 connectors, the other 2 were the same as a 2 connector model, and the 3rd was all grounds....but I could be wrong. Best to just keep it together if at all possible.

Yea, please post the whole story if you want some more in-depth information. To answer your original question. The engine management is integrated into the bulkhead harness, so you need all of that from a 1st gen Legacy. The connectors between the bulkhead harness and engine harness changed a few times, so best to get the engine harness, too. Of course, it would be easiest to get it from a Turbo Legacy. The difference between a turbo and non-turbo harness is very small. The Cam and Crank wires are swapped at the ECU, and the temperature sensors are on the other side of the motor. On those, the ECU is not specific to Auto or Manual, but the harness is. I'd rather modify a non-turbo harness to the turbo, then modify an auto to manual. Of course, if you're stripping it down to merge into another car, it won't much matter. And yes, it will have to be used. These forums (here and legacycentral are probably your best bet) are getting slow, but you still might find something in the classifieds. Facebook groups are great for buying odd parts. Or, junkyards.

Check the gear ratios, in case you need the rear diff. Yes, starter is different. Flywheel bolts are longer, too, although those are the same as EJ, probably can get them right from Subaru. Front half of the drive shaft, at least. Though, if you separate the halves, you should rebalance the assembly. Easiest to just grab the whole thing. That should be it off the top of my head (grain of salt, the 3AT->5MT swap I did was about 15 years ago). Only MPFI in that vintage was a turbo. And only Turbo/dual range combo was the RX Coupe. Fairly safe bet that GL Wagon isn't.

Everything you need can come from that car.

Loyale is Old-gen. Very different to the EJ platform that began with the '90 Legacy.

That is an EA82 body, which started in 1985, you have to be a bit careful, because the Brats and hatchbacks carried EA81 body until 1987 in the US. Generally, EA82 stuff is all the same, although the crossmember will have to be 1987.5+. Yep, you'll need the crossmember under the transmission, driveshaft, starter, flywheel, clutch, shift linkage, center console/shift boot (the Loyales didn't have a console, just a boot on the floor, where the GLs had a console), clutch cable. Speedometer cable is a different length, but I think the AT one is longer, so you can just use it. If your new transmission is a push button 4WD, you'll need the vacuum hoses and solenoids for those, and you'll need to run some wires to make that all work. The gauge cluster requires considerable rewiring....don't bother. Most 5MT 4WD EA82 transmissions use a 3.9 rear diff, I think your 3AT will use a 3.7, should be a sticker right on it, though. You'll want to verify what's in it, and your donor and make sure they match. On the off chance your donor transmission is from a turbo car, it'll be 3.7 and require 25 spline axles, so you'd need turbo axles. If you're going to bother, get a dual-range 4WD transmission from a 87-89 GL.

No need. 3 year old thread, dredged up by a 1 post member with an advertisement link in the text....probably not a real inquiry.

good catch, I missed that line. Yep, definitely a 3AT, then.

Morrie's Minnetonka Subaru. MSRP on them is pretty reasonable, and I think they're still doing a discount for MN Subaru (just have to ask).

Your shifter will either have D, 2, 1 or D, 3, 2 with a button for 1 hold. My '89 XT6 4EAT definitely has lockup. I don't believe the 4EAT was available before '87.5, as the transmission tunnel got bigger specifically for that. I think the 3AT in my old Loyale had lockup, but I was in highschool when it still had an auto. IF it doesn't have it, it would be very hard to retrofit, as it is controlled via a solenoid in the valve body and passages. You'd have to swap out for the EJ transmission, which requires some modification.

Yep, they are. EA81/MY use a shorter shaft, but all EA82/L are interchangeable, even though most have an outer CV.

The axle stub and DOJ cup are not 2 pieces, like they were on older cars. New axles come with male splines on them, just install your new axle.

No way, you'd have people breaking down your door if you listed that car for that little right now. Very hard to value something like that, as there's almost zero comparables. But here in MN, Subarus draw a premium. Rust free cars draw a premium. And right now, the used car market is on fire. All that means that thing has very good value. I'd bet a dealer would be asking close to $10k, and I wouldn't be that surprised if they could find someone to pay that (or nearly that). I'd probably start at something like $6k if I were selling it. Yes, rubber components will be badly degraded. Timing belt should be done immediately. But, obviously, there's a TON of life left in that car.

Wow, I didn't think anyone made them aftermarket, nor that they went to the trouble to duplicate the style that closely (I assumed the aftermarket companies would replace all EA82 rears with the same part). The important part is the compressed length, an EA82 shaft will bottom out on an EA81, as it's too long. But assuming that's identical to OEM, that should give you a pair of the cups you need. The wording is really screwy. MY and L-series is the Aussie wording for EA81 and EA82. GL and Leone were used for both body styles, and Loyale only for the end of EA82s... Your Brat looks gorgeous!

Well, the inner cups won't work on your WRX diff, anyway. But even if you just get one, it might get you just the extra you need.

Yep, should be right. The rear diff in these cars is sometimes a little off center, not sure exactly why, and it seems to be different on every car. When there were more guys running welded diffs on here, there's always an easy side to pull an axle, some cars could be done without even jacking the car up. EA81s use a narrower track, so you can't use the shaft, but using 4 EA82 cups on EA81 shafts would give quite a bit more extension travel. When I built my Loyale (5-lug, EJ22, lowered), I didn't have any correct roll pins handy, so I used some low grade bolts. Broke 3 on the LH side (actually had a LR axle fall out while driving...) before doing it correctly, never on the RH side. I have EA82 inner cups on my Brat shafts for a bit more travel. Took a picture last night (Boy does a flash highlight the rust....Minnesota car it's whole life), you can see the extra depth in the joint. 20200729_183004 by Numbchux, on Flickr

EA81 rear axles look like this: Look closely, you have a roll pin where the outer joint meets the suspension arm/wheel bearing.

No. EA81s, and early EA82s are the only ones with DOJs on the outer joint as well as the inner, after about 1988, they all have a CV on the outer. If you can get your hands on EA82 rear axles, the inner axle cup from them can be used in place of the outer on the EA81, but it's deeper, so will allow more axle extension.

That's best. You'd probably be fine, but I wouldn't do it. The chance of failing, and leaving you stranded, and on the hook for a tow, several days of hotel rooms, AND the repair is not worth risking.

I applaud you for searching, seriously. But, best to start your own thread with your own details, then add onto another (especially a long-dead one).

Wow. Again, ASSuming it's an old gen, and that's really 25-30 year old oil, it's definitely time to get it out of there. But the shavings are nothing to worry about. They use a metallic plug for a reason because shavings happen. Yep, plain jane GL-50 80w90 will treat it well.

Normal. In fact, looks like a pretty small amount for a manual transmission with that many miles on it. ASSuming it's actually an old-gen car, very small chance it's never been done in that time.

My daily is a '00 Outback, currently about 335k miles. It has lots of issues, but most are due to it's life in MN (rust...). I understand that at really high mileage, the main bearings get beat up, and not worth line honing. I put an actual oil pressure gauge on it so I can make sure that stays good (the switch for the warning light is only a few psi...).