Numbchux

I'll clarify, I LOVE my LED headlights. Considerable improvement in visibility, I've never had anyone flash their high beams at me, I've been on the receiving end of them (me in my Celica and my wife in the Outback) many times and they're completely acceptable in traffic. I don't love the 6000k color, but 4500k LEDs are CONSIDERABLY more expensive. But, I tested them back to back, I make sure my lenses are clear (a quick buff every couple years keeps them looking like new), and aimed correctly. I cannot imagine a situation where a well made and correctly installed LED in a halogen housing would scatter more light where it's not wanted than the halogen, as the light output is smaller. But, it is still important to note that they are different, and how they react with each housing will vary. A friend gave me a set of cheap H6054 LED housings, because the light output was so awful. I intend to use them on my XT6, which is never destined for street use again (and may not even get headlights). I was riding in another friend's Ford van recently, and he was bragging about how bright his new headlights were, but it didn't take long to realize they were casting light all over where it shouldn't be. These were cheap aftermarket OEM replacement housings with halogen bulbs in them. Worked out well for me, he gave me his old ones, they're just a little cloudy, and they'll fit my van, my dad's RV, and my in-laws RV... The point is, the answer is not black and white. Some LEDs work great in some halogen housings, some probably don't. Some cheap reflectors/projectors/lenses suck, regardless of light source they are using or were designed for.

Yea, the EA sending unit uses larger thread than the EJ, so can't just use it. I just wired the EJ sensor to the EA gauge, it reads low, but still useable. Or you can use a resistor to change the signal, pretty sure the information is in my write-up.

That pretty well sums it up. The point of light output on an LED is smaller than a halogen filament. If it's located correctly, this generally means you actually loose some light output. I've used a couple different brands of LEDs in the low beams on my '00 and '04 Outbacks, and I get a fantastic clean cutoff vertically, but actually loose a bit to the sides, but it's only noticeable in a back to back comparison on a wall.

About that vintage, there was a considerable warranty extension on those low beam bulbs. Give your local dealer a call, if it's the ones I'm thinking of, they'll do it for free.

Nothing I recognize. Spring clamps suggest it's in the vent line. What vehicle is this?

Any first gen non-turbo Legacy ECU should work. Although, I HIGHLY doubt it is the ECU itself. More likely something in the wiring, as the power circuit all has to be modified when doing a swap. My first thought, is the ignition coil. In the Legacy, this power wire comes straight off the ignition switch and that wire has to be tied into a new power source (I remember it, as I missed it a couple times...), if the person who prepped the harness tied that into an unswitched power source, that would cause a considerable drain. I'd grab a test light and/or multimeter and start testing power wires at the coil, ignitor, fuel injectors, etc. with the key off.

Possible? Yes. Feasible? Probably not. Maybe if you were given a free complete H6 car that couldn't be titled, and didn't mind spending a couple hundred hours of your life in the garage. You could swap everything into your shell. But that's pretty much what needs to happen. The electronics all talk to each other, and unless you can make CAN communication modules, you're not going to separate them. Generally, makes a whole lot more sense to just buy a used H6 one and sell yours.

As mentioned. The 4.444 front pinion shaft can only be paired with an EJ AWD center differential. Not ideal, and modifying it for anything else is even less ideal. I started building one of those transmissions to go in my Brat. Encountered a speed bump about the time I got my 4Runner working, and haven't touched the Brat project. I'm no longer interested in dealing with a clutch pedal on an offroad vehicle unless it has at least 100:1 crawl ratio (best combination in a Subaru is about 25:1). Yea, Bill's bellhousing with an EJ22 and a Toyota transmission is probably the next best option. That ~150:1 crawl ratio becomes possible (you'll have to refinance your home to do it). But, yea, you have to have enough lift in it to make room for an extra front diff. The r160 isn't really up to the abuse, there are other options, but require custom axles, etc. The steering isn't up to the abuse. Before you know it, you'll have $20k into it...and it still won't be as capable as an XJ.

Final Word? Probably won't find that. Yes, your car probably came from the factory with Blue, and was probably engineered assuming that it would continue having blue. Does that mean that green will destroy your car? Probably not. My mom's 2012 Impreza has been running green for 150k miles...no problem. Definitely do not mix them, though.

3/16 punch. preferrably a long one. When you put it back together, it will only line up one way, if the roll pin doesn't go back in pretty easily, rotate the axle 180

2002 and 2003 are different generation Foresters...so what's true of one is not necessarily true of the other. Looks like the 2003 would have come with the 290mm front brakes. These will NOT clear factory 15s without modification. I have ground down those calipers enough to clear factory 15s, so it is possible with 10 careful minutes with a grinder....but not without.

Moog was bought out by Federal Mogul several years ago, they're just another aftermarket suspension component. I bought a few Moog ball joints within a short period, and they all failed within a year. When I was working at Autozone, I bought a few of their Duralast-branded ones (TRW, IIRC), similar. OEM should have no trouble reaching 100k miles. Drilling out broken pinch bolts is one thing, I've had a couple that were so stubborn, it cracked the ear that the pinch bolt goes through when I was trying to release it.

Quote out OEM Ball joints (don't forget, they don't come with castle nut, cotter pin, and pinch bolt). I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones and I think the OEM ones are pretty reasonable. And wrecked knuckles changing them. The nails in place of cotter pins would likely indicate an aftermarket ball joint, so keep an eye on them.

Clunking is frequently sway bar related, usually end links, but sometimes bushings as well. Super easy to tell....just disconnect one link, that will unload the bar across that axle and the noise should go away. If not, look elsewhere. That rear control arm bushing is fluid filled, so the fluid is likely coming out of the bushing, and will likely only get worse. I believe those can be replaced independently from the control arm (it's certainly possible, I'm not sure if they're available seperately).

Wagon? or Sedan? The wording "trunk" makes me think Sedan, but the talk of the spoiler sounds more like that on the lift gate of a wagon. If so, those plastic spoilers on the top of the gate break off with a little ice build-up, and once it breaks off there's nowhere for the high mount brake light to mount, and the mounting holes will leak into the gate and exacerbate the already-common rear gate harness failure. Those spoilers aren't too terribly priced from the dealership, but they come un-painted. I'd go hitch- or roof-mount

Yep, can't stress this enough. The old studs rust, and then thread out of the head. A 10x1.25 thread repair tap is a great idea (careful with a thread cutting tap, as it will take off more material...not really a good thing). I just did this job on my '00, and while it turned out the problem was really a broken weld under the heat shield right by the head, but I replaced the gaskets and hardware while I was there. I was thinking it might be nice to use Toyota studs, which have a torx end on them, so they can be more easily tightened down into the head to ensure complete thread engagement before really putting any clamping force on them.

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of ways to do the install. But the short answer is that if you drop the EG33 in place of an EJ engine, and then try to mount a radiator in it's stock position, they will occupy the same space. Most people use some sort of aftermarket/custom radiator mounted in front of, or in place of (switching to hood pins) the hood latch. It will sit in the stock motor mounts and bolt to any Impreza transmission. If not completely abused, a good condition 5MT will hold up fairly well. If you want to drive it hard, you might want to look into a 6MT. This stuff has been done thousands of times (transmission swap information is largely unchanged whether it's bolted to a H6 or H4). It will require some custom exhaust work, but that's not a big deal. If you can't fab it yourself, there are muffler shops in every town that can do that. I don't know of any shops that would tackle the whole project. But there are people who can do the wiring. iwire certainly can, but I saw a post the other day that made it sound like they didn't want the job (high price, etc.). "EG33 Swap" obviously gets you a huge amount of information, but some of it is getting pretty dated. For the most current projects, the Facebook group "Six Swapped Subarus" has quite a bit, there's probably a dozen guys on there with the time and knowledge to do a harness merge for you. For parts, there are 2 SVX (nation, and world network) with plenty of parts hoarders.

Well...XT6 is a bit different being 5-lug.

Can be bolted into just about any Subaru (in the US, everything except the 360 and Justy with very little work). Will bolt to any EJ/EZ/FA/FB transmission (basically anything since 1990, EA82 hung around in the Loyale until 1994). Will bolt to an EA81/EA82 transmission with an adapter plate. It's considerably longer than any other engine, so depending on the chassis, radiator will have to be moved at least a little. The challenging part is the electronics. Do you have the ECU and wiring harness? I assume there was some sort of plan on running it in the plane. The bulkhead harness (behind the dash, running up into the engine bay) has to be removed and considerably modified to graft the ECU and it's wiring for the 3.3 into the receiving car. Fairly common swap into the '90s models, as they're much lighter. A '90s Impreza with a 3.3 will walk away from a stock STi in a straight line. Engine code is an EG33. Google "EG33 Swap" will yield a flood of information, and obviously you can refine it down from there. Not much market for them. SVXs were notorious for transmission issues, and the engines are very stout, so there's lots of them out there. Service parts are becoming scarce, most can still be sourced, but in 5-10 years? Probably not.

I believe that to be correct. That's the only change in the components at the wheels. Front calipers are all the same, just whether it has disc or drum in the rear. So I would assume the larger diameter one goes with the discs. The cars without hill holder have 4 ports, and with hill holder have 3. And M10 inverted brake plug could adapt a 4-port to 3-.

Very different cars. I wheeled lifted EA82s for years, and was in the middle of building a 25:1 Subaru 5MT for my Brat. Then I took our stock '04 Outback H6 VDC to the local offroad park (old iron ore pit mine, VERY rocky and technical), and did a lot of the same trails, in comfort, with the A/C on, with the torque converter I was able to just gently drive over obstacles that would have been a dance on the pedals and a cloud of clutch smoke. On the terrain I'm used to, at least, I don't want a clutch offroad unless the crawl ratio is AT LEAST 100:1, preferably more like 150:1. Can't touch that in a Subaru. But, from what I understand of sand driving with an auto, it generates a ton of heat which pretty quickly becomes a problem. So consider the terrain at those local parks, as well. I also don't miss street driving my EA82s, the Outback is a freakin Bentley by comparison.

Yea, the reman shortblocks are a decent deal, comes semi loaded with oil and water pumps, I think oil pan and more. If you're looking for used ones. Yea, the EJ251/EJ252 from about '99-'05. I THINK the only thing to watch for (other than the 04-05 California EJ259), is the EGR pipe. If your car has an EGR, you'll want to get a replacement with one...

Yep, transmission cooler. Might just be the rubber hose, but that steel line looks pretty rusty, so I'd bet it's leaking from further up. I can probably offer more, but best I know what car you have...

Is that a remote reservoir system? or is the reservoir right on top of the pump? Either way, it sounds like it's sucking air. The hose on the remote reservoir ones gets hard and doesn't seal when it's cold, a screw clamp can do wonders there, as the formed hose from Subaru is not cheap, there's also an oring between the hose adapter and pump. The reservoir on the pump has an oring between it, a new pump should have come with that oring, though.

Look in your owners manual. If the remote can be programmed, the instructions will be there. I concur with GD about the immobilizer key. Get it from the dealer, and get a couple. If you have no working keys, you'll be towing the car to the dealership, paying them to remove the gauge cluster and at least one other module (not the same for every model, and even with I worked at the dealer I didn't have it memorized) to be sent into Subaru and reset. Yea...do it right the first time. The dealership I worked at charged one programming fee, didn't matter if you were programming 1 key or 3. This is not a standardized fee, though, so call your local dealership and see what they charge.