Numbchux

Touring wagon? my dad's 6' 3" and didn't really like our old legacy sedan. but we got a raised roof legacy, and now he's got a few inches to spare...but that's above his head. he still only barely has enough leg room.

actually, if you do that, I'll be you find that they feel tight. you have to get the wheels good and warm before re-torqueing. that first time I had the wheel fall off, I had been doing some brake work on that side...and I know I got them good and tight. but if you don't drive on them, and then re-torque, they'll work themselves loose. ever since, I tighten the lugs, then drive around the block a few times, doing 4 or 5 very good, hard stops, to get the brakes/wheels warm. THEN I put final torque on the lugs. you'd be suprised how loose they can get just driving around the block!

I had a drivetrain click on my '85 that I was so sure was an axle....then my wheel fell off.....I didn't make that mistake again :-\

just noticed these on 3bay. if anyones interested in inclinometers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260064367855 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-HILUX-SURF-INCLINOMETER-ALTIMETER-GAUGE-4RUNNER-92_W0QQitemZ260064398536QQihZ016QQcategoryZ46100QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

nice. I've been looking at the MRT system...but I think I'll go with a borla knockoff unequal length system. keep that wonderful rumble.

yep, they didn't start the FT4WD 5MT until '87...so maybe that's when they adopted the different gears...

yea, I suspected that. but with this setup. I'd be using the 3.7 pinion and ring gears. along with the RX center diff....so that shouldn't be a problem....if I can get the 1.6:1 lo range gears to work, I don't see any reason to lower the final drive. according to my FSM, all turbo 5MT models had the same gearing. whether part or full time, single or dual range. all had 3.7 final drive and 0.871 5th gear. it may have been different in other years....but it appears not in '89.

haha, you beat me to it....here's my idea for a solution... listing of common EJ gear ratios: http://www.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=181343 also, gen 1 legacy gearing from my '92 FSM FWD 5MT 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.738 FD: 3.70 AWD 5MT 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.783 FD: 4.111 So, inspired by Beefaru's el sweeto hybrid transmission, and the fact that I had a couple RX transmissions, and a legacy 4.111 AWD trans fall into my lap (and assuming, since he's got a forester 5-speed...that other EJ gears can be used). plus the EA82 N/A D/R trans I already have (although I did promise to sell it to a buddy....). Here's what I'm going for: EA82 N/A or AWD Legacy 1-4 (same ratios, I'm leaning towards the Legacy ones...assuming they're stronger) FWD Legacy 5th EA82 N/A lo range RX center diff and final drive (the guy who's giving me the RX trannies seems to think a Mazda 323 GTX viscous locking center coupler could be used....he's got one...so I plan on finding out...). This would give me: 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.70 Lo range: 1.592 which would mean, on stock tires (ignoring the fact that I'll probably be on bigger ones), this means that in 5th Hi, at 75, the engine would be turning a relaxed 2900 rpms. And, when lo range is engaged, it would be like having a final drive of 5.9:1. Which means, in 5th Lo, 5k rpms would be 78 mph. Which would work out perfect for even the fastest of courses. AND, still keep the locking center diff. While I have it all apart, I would really like to put in a front LSD. but that'll depend on the cashflow at the time

So, ever since my EJ22/Rx trans swap, I've been very unhappy with the gear ratios. so over the last few days, I've done a bunch of research on gearing, and what all came with what, and what I found was rather suprising. this is all from an '89 FSM first off, an N/A EA82 D/R 5MT 1st: 3.545 2nd: 1.947 3rd: 1.366 4th: 0.972 5th: 0.780 Final Drive: 3.90 Lo Range reduction: 1.592 EA82 turbo FT4WD 5MT (RX or GL/-10) 1st: 3.545 2nd: 2.111 3rd: 1.448 4th: 1.088 5th: 0.871 Final Drive: 3.70 Lo Range reduction: 1.196 Myth: Because of the final drive, the turbo trans would yield lower rpms at cruise...right? well, punch those numbers into a gear calc (like the one on Subarubrat's Website). using the stock tire height of 23", cruising at 75 mph with a turbo trans means 3500 rpms, while using an N/A trans, means 3300 rpms. BUSTED

that's what I assumed...but it's not how it works. the gears are different. the 5th gear in the RX trans is so much lower, that despite the higher final drive, it actually cruises at higher rpm. the RX trans is the only 5MT trans that subaru has made (that I could find...anyway) where 4th gear is not an overdrive....5th is .871 on an RX, and .780 on an N/A D/R trans. punch that into a gear calculator, and at 75 mph, using 23" for tire diameter, the RX gearing means about 3500 rpms, and an N/A gearbox means 3300... and an N/A EA82 gearbox has virtually identical gearing to most EJ 5MT transmissions. I've been looking alot into gearing lately....because I really don't like the high rpms the engine has to turn while on the freeway. And I make lots of freeway trips, at 75-80mph for hours at a time. That said, I'd still rock the RX trans. common beleif seems to be that an EA82 trans can't hold up to much power, but I haven't seen anyone destroy one....

I say go for it. I don't think anyone's run too much power through one yet. I intend to keep building up my motor until the tranny goes... The only downside, is the RX gearbox is geared very short for an EJ engine.

new. check out http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml just about anything he makes for a 4runner, I plan on buying! sliders, body lift, ball joint spacers, front diff drop kit, hi lift jack mount, and probably more. Occasionally this stuff comes up used for even less. I've seen many a set of ball joint spacers for $50 or less used. and yes, I know the rear disc swap is much cheaper on a subaru, I've bought 2 setups, and installed 3 (transplanted from one car when I parted it to another). paid about $100 for the first, and $40 for the second (local yard).

nice. I'll have to try that. I was just thinking, from looking at your pic, that you could trim the vertical part of the lower hose to accomodate more or less lift...I'll see what I can dig up. eddygordouk, I suppose you could, but it sounds identical to what I'm doing. I have acrobat proffesional aswell...and will be converting it to a pdf file with all the pictures I can find. This is just the first draft....

and you used the rear diff from the legacy? Suberdave had to use an adapter race to put WRX inner cups onto his EA82 shafts in his EJ20G swaps. but now that you mention it, the early Legacy stub axles work with the EA82 rear axles. I'll add that in there.

way cool! do you have any info on those hoses? my lower rad hose is one of the things that I'm not happy with. but thanks for the suggestions, I'll include those.

Sweet82 has one. but I don't think anyone else here has. His looks like a VERY cool setup, and I'm sure he'll chime in here soon...

nope...supras are dyno queens anyway....

Here's draft one of my EJ-swap writeup. it's still a somewhat crude .doc file, and still has nothing about the wiring (I don't even know where to start...). but I think the text is pretty much finished. Download EA2EJ.doc it's a MS Word .doc file. I have office 2003, so it may not work so well on older versions. however, let me know if anyone has any problems, and I'll save it as a .rtf or something. the final version will be in .pdf form, so that won't be as much of an issue. anyway, please read it, and see if there's anything that doesn't make sense, or incorrect. I've got lots of pictures and FSM diagrams for the wiring section. but what you see there is pretty much the extent of the pictures I have for the rest of the process. so if you've got anything that you think should be in there, or want to see something, I could try to take some pictures of my wagon. anyway...let me know what you guys think

EJ engines already have forged internals. and an EJ20G already has good compression for a turbo. no need to mess with it unless you're doing some crazy build. ditto on the cams. port and polish couldn't hurt, but would probably be much more work than it's worth (unless you've got some other reason to tear the engine apart)

from what I've heard, the 5.29s are fine, it's the 5.71s that you have to worry about. and for rock crawling, I'm gonna want as low as possible....I'll probably go dual tcases eventually aswell....

yea, but I think all 97-04 legacy were 2.5l. it's just the 95+ 2.2 that has single port exhaust. if they're dual port, they'll work....so those should work, as long as his picture is accurate.

Anyone have one? I'd like to add some good EA wiring diagrams for my EJ swap write-up. in fact, if anyone has an EA81 one....that would be also super helpful!!

I've finished compiling as much text as is needed regarding everything but wiring. I've decided not to use the Geocities site, just too hard to get that much information into a good format. anyway, I've got 9 pages, with 3 pictures, and nothing about wiring....everything touched on in this thread, and the one I linked in the first post, is included. anyone want to add anything? I'm starting on wiring now....tons of good information. I would like to get this .doc file uploaded to our school server for you guys to look over before I add all the pictures and import it into a .pdf file.

agreed! it looks like I've got my hands on an RX transmission (from a guy who thinks it'd be possible to put a viscous locking center diff from a mazda 323 gtx in it), and legacy 4.111 trans, so I'll be trying this soon.... only thing I need now, is a 1.59:1 lo range gearset, and I'll be seeing what I can do.

as far as axles go, all subarus are the same width. if you're using an STi tranny....use STi axles. if you're using a legacy, use your 25-spline impreza axles. ditto for an early WRX tranny. since you've got EJ knuckles, you'll have no more issues with axles than someone doing the swap into a newer car... did that make any sense? no need for a different radiator. I'd much rather use the EA radiator, since it actually was designed to fit into the chassis. plumbing it all together is rather simple. I too would recommend going to a standalone ECU, which will have it's own wiring issues. my buddy's going EJ22t in his legacy, and using a Link ECU. it came with a 2 meter wiring harness....enough so you wouldn't have to mess with the stock wiring harness one bit. I'm pretty much finished with the text portion of my writeup. I'll upload the MSWord document to my school account soon so you guys can read it over before I convert it to a pdf.