Numbchux

woa, are you sure you've got a dual range 5-speed from an '85 with a 3.7? I have trouble keeping track of the different gear ratios, but this might have the 1.2:1 lo range aswell (ones with the 3.9 will have 1.59:1). I would say, find yourself an EA81 4-speed Dual range tranny. This will drop in without any modification. if you use an EA82 (5-speed), you'll need a custom driveshaft (as GD already mentioned), and some custom work on the crossmember and linkage aswell. in fact, if you can, find yourself a donor car, one that's good and rusted out, or chrashed, or blown motor..... you'll need the pedal box, linkage, driveshaft, clutch/flywheel/pressure plate, trans crossmember, and tranny. unless it's an EA82 3-door coupe (see pics above), in which case, never mind...

so with my latest research into the toyota offroad community, I stumbled across this: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=51513 it seems to me that a decently set-up lifted subaru (like mine was when I sold it....) doesn't break axles any faster than a jeep does with big tires and stock axles (my buddy just broke a shaft on his Dana 35 in his YJ...on 35s. but it took 2 years). so why would it be that bad to drive on the road with a welded rear end? you may have to change your driving style a bit to avoid any real tight turns. go around the block instead of making a U.... has anyone run with a welded rear end and both rear axles installed on the road? or is it just speculation? I can see how it would put a bit more wear on the system then otherwise, but as long as you're easy on the happy pedal (both on-road and off-), it seems to me that it should last awhile. had I stumbled across this earlier, I might not have sold the wagon :-\

I've thought about it. but all the lines back there look so scary, I'm afraid to touch anything until I'm prepared for a serious project. all the metal lines (fuel and brake) are VERY rusted. and the couple rubber lines immediately attached to the tank are cracked...and could give way soon. but I know what that problem is, and how to fix it. I haven't a clue why it's so hard to start. and would like to get this figured out if possible. if they're related, I'll be tickled pink....but I just don't know...

haha, that's an awesome quote! yea, I looked at the picture and thought to myself something like, "Wow, what is that 4runner A SUBARU!! wait.....2 Subarus!!! that white one's got the unpainted bumpers, so it's gotta be a DL or loyale, and a legacy wagon, probably outback from the ride height....oh yea...4 runner..."

I'd love to. but I don't have much time, and the only place I have up here to work on the thing is outside on a gravel parking slab. it's a very slow leak, just a drop every few seconds. I don't like it, but I'm going to have to live with it for a few more weeks until I get to my parent's place where there's a garage.

OK, bump for a couple other questions. I haven't had time to pull things apart enough to really even look at them...however: if the coolant temp sensor wasn't hooked up, it wouldn't know when to reduce the idle, would it? for example, when I first start it, it has the normal high idle at about 2k rpms, then once it's been running for a few minutes, it drops down to ~700. but once I've been driving it for awhile, and it's already warm, if I restart it, it immediately idles at ~700 rpms. every time. another possibility, I've got a small leak in a metal fuel line near the pump. I haven't had time to fix it (and I'm afraid to touch it, as judging from the rust on all the metal lines around it, it's not going to cooperate), is it possible that this is reducing my fuel pressure enough that it's having trouble starting? maybe as it sits it drains all the fuel out of the line between the pump and the engine, and it takes a few tries for it all to prime again like it should... but I'm having no signs of any troubles while it's running, at any rpm range, even under WOT. maybe I'll take a clip of me trying to start it here in the next couple days and post it...so you guys can hear what I'm dealing with...

So, now that I've got a 4Runner, I've been looking at more 4runner pics, and happened to stumble across this one: and what did I see? I'll give you a hint, the SAS'd Toyota with a rather odd parking place was third on the list...

it's a ton of work to swap them (electrically speaking...). and you would have less torque for getting up and down the mountains. only a few more peak hp, and you'd only see that at about 5k rpms. and the EA81 is not a good motor to go boosting. they just can't handle it.

um.... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Kumho&model=Road+Venture+MT+834 there are some 28.8s SJR...My buddy's brother has them on his cherokee. and they're awesome. clear out very well in the slick stuff, and are very smooth on the road. if I can afford them, I'll be getting a set for the 4runner in the spring.

doesn't matter. the ones that I pulled from the junkyard were off an AT. but my buddies got a FWD 5MT imp, and when he replaced his axle, Napa gave him a 25-spline one, and it didn't work....

not just claimed. I pulled a set of FWD impreza axles from one here at a junkyard for austin, and tested them on a number of trannies I had laying around. fit perfectly onto a non-turbo d/r tranny, did not fit on a FWD legacy tranny, or my RX tranny....

so I'm looking at a keyless entry/remote start system for my wagon. but I'm not sure what to look for in the keyless entry system. it seems like it would be pretty simple (my car already has power locks). you'd just need an actuator for the drivers door. but I'm not sure if there is anything like this. anyone have any ideas? seen a system that comes with an actuator, or has one available? or know where a good actuator could be acquired (maybe a stock subaru one....).

yep, cables. my clutch cable would do this last winter, until there was a little heat in the engine bay, the clutch would get stuck, and not engage sometimes, making it very hard to get to school if I was late... later that same winter, the cable broke. and I ended up doing a cable late one night in the snow because I needed the car the next day. replace the cables....

I just realized you have an impreza. that doesn't change much of anything with the clutch job. in fact, makes for a little better argument for pulling the trans, since the engine's a little more complicated to remove in an EJ car. but you're in the wrong section, imprezas would fall under the new gen. we were all thinking you had an EA81 or EA82 subaru...

I did mine on my lifted wagon by pulling the trans. I think in general, if you've got a lift, pull the trans. if you've got an engine hoist (but no lift), pull the motor. if you've got neither, get some ratchet straps, and a buddy, and drop the trans. if you do pull the trans. when you're putting it back in, disconnect the pitch stopper, and the lift up the front of the motor (a jack and a block of wood on the oil pan work well) to make re-installation a bit easier. I found that putting the trans in with 2 guys (me and my dad), and a couple ratchet straps was easier than when I dropped the motor into it a year later. I had a hell of a time getting things to line up when I was dropping in the motor, and then when it finally did go, I darn near lost a finger between the block and the trans bellhousing!

yea..they're uber ugly... I may just paint them solid black though...since I like their width and backspacing I took a couple pics of my crazy digital dash setup today, and finally got around to uploading them:

LSD + lifted EA82 + deep snow = :banana: lookin good man!

most anything of the same body style that has a turbo will (although it was only an option on the GL-10s and XTs...so some might not. but most will). and XT6s (heavier car, so they got a thicker bar). you'll need the trailing arms too, as they only have the necessary brackets if there was a sway bar. and no...you can't have my axle burtonsnowman....

I'm not concerned. I'll go way out of my way to keep the auto trans for my crawler. that was one of the reasons I wanted to ditch the subaru....I hated the 5-speed for offroad. and the turbos were not available with a MT.

hmm...I suppose. although an EA on oversized tires and with good working 4-wheel discs has more stopping power than virtually any other lifted rig out there. I've driving a few buddy's rigs....jeeps and such.....yikes!

yep, for offroad, that would be the preferred method...however for us street/track guys, the bigger brakes that come with the 5-lug conversion are of much importance

if you're not concerned about suspension articulation. upgrade to turbo rear trailing arms, and add a rear sway bar to it. the only large driveability difference I noticed, was the removal of the sway bar, the origional lift and tire installation didn't effect the handling all that much. I bet, even with a lift and slightly larger tires (just 26-27" tires would be perfect, don't need to do all that trimming for 29+), it would be pretty streetable, and very stable with a rear sway bar. Heck, you could even put in the beefy XT6 bars...and probably get better than stock handling! I just bought an '87 turbo 4runner, with stock suspension and 31s....and I can tell you my 4" lifted, swaybarless wagon handled better than this thing does! and 91loyale. he's looking at an SJR kit, which leaves the strut/radius/leading rod brackets tight up against the body. so that weak point isn't really an issue (the biggest reason I would get an SJR kit over anything else)

the EJ inner axle cups have 25 splines, where the rear diff (now being mounted in the front) only has 23. so you have to use either FWD impreza cups, or EA cups, in order for them to fit on the diff.

not taller, but similar....it certainly wouldn't be an upgrade and yes, the rear strut top is different than the front, but very similar. the older gen ones are COMPLETELY different....

Gotta fix the knock before I do much with it.... the turbos where only available in '87. they knew the regular 22RE 4-cyl was not powerful enough, but the V6 wasn't ready to be released until '88....so they turbo'd the old motor.