Numbchux

got here today!! an '87 SR5 turbo with an Automatic. VERY solid frame (hard to find here in the midwest), and a slight knock (probably a #4 rod bearing...). but only 24,000 miles on a brand new head and turbo. $1600. it'll be a bit of a project, but it's already got add-a-leafs, and front torsion bars cranked up, so I think some fender trimming, a 2-tone paint job, and some 33s should do nicely for next year. maybe a rear locker aswell.... then, SAS and 35s.

for future reference, don't floor it when going through water. it just splashes more water around, and causes the engine to suck more air (and potentially water). smooth, slow, and steady is the way to go. I'd bet on wet electrical connections. these motors are completely electronically controlled....if it gets a goofy signal from anything, it won't run quite right.

the #4 setting doesn't use a resistor. so if this one doesn't work, I would suspect the switch, or wiring, before the resistor pack. my #1 & 2 resistors are blown, so I only have 3 & 4.... but yes, the resistor pack is right next to the blower under/behind the glove box. yes, you'll probably have to contort your body half way under the dash to get at it...another reason to try the switch first. in fact, I'd pull the switch apart and make sure all the contacts are good and clean, and see where that lands you. maybe even get out a multimeter and make sure you're getting continuity through the right wires on all the settings.

so that's what that stupid blue thing is for. I had to relocate it in order to get my EJ22 ECU in there.....and now it falls down in front of the clutch pedal all the time....gotta get out the zip ties anyway, I wonder how hard it would be to retrofit the adjustable intermittent wipers onto a car that didn't have them.... tex. sorry for the little hijack... but every GL and loyale that I've seen has had intermittent wipers, only the DLs didn't (including the '85/'86 ones, the switch was just on the dash....like we've already covered). I can't imagine that an RX wouldn't come with them. you're probably going to have to get the whole assembly (turn signal and wiper stalks) from a GL. hopefully the plugs didn't have to be modified to put the DL one in there. and the sensor that allows the wiper arms to 'center' is in the motor itself. mine did what you describe after being parked for a couple years (worked fine before parking it). I figured I probalby would have to replace it anyway....so I took it apart, and cleaned some dust and dirt out of there, greased up the gears, and put it back together, and it worked. I couldn't describe how it came apart, or went together.....but I got lucky and it works perfectly now! *knock on wood*

neither of mine will (including the one still in the legacy). it'll start for a second, but won't stay running.

Oh, really?? adjustable intermitent wipers....that would be sooooo sweet. *digs out wiring diagrams...*

the strut tower pattern will be the same. not sure of the offset required to avoid camber problems (although there is some adjustment at the knuckle). but it looks like the strut tops are at an angle....

in my experience, the ECUs are not different. and the jumper is only required to get the starter relay to turn on, but if you're using the relay on the EA car, it won't matter. I have 3 OBD I EJ22 ECUs, one known from a 4EAT, one from a 5-speed, and the third I'm unsure as to the origin.....they're completely interchangeable, and do not throw any CEL codes. the donor car for my swap was an automatic. it made things a little more complicated to strip down, but not too badly (just find the 2 connectors that go to the tranny, and the 2 or 3 that go to the TCU, and cut off all the wires that go to them....it really helps narrow things down)

yes, you'll need the Mass Air Flow sensor....without it the motor will not run. for the power steering pump...remove it. and get a shorter alternater belt.

he's talking about a block between the top of the strut, and the strut tower on the car. just like the EA ones.

^^true keep in mind, they're made for EA81 cars, and will require some custom work to get it to bolt onto an EA82 (like yours). it can/has been done, but it won't be straight bolt-up.

rear ones are pretty similar. I bet you could make a set of those pretty easy too... they still wouldn't solve the spring perch clearance problem....

on an EA82, 'spacers' are the only way to go, there are no longer shocks dropping the rear crossmember makes it very easy to tweak/destroy the unibody where it bolts to. These are on my (formerly MorganMs) BYB lifted '88 wagon. passenger side, how it should look: driver side, after a hit (not a gentle one...but I barely made it that far up the hill to begin with...) and both BYB and AA drop the leading rod plate....which leaves the same problem. SJR extends the leading/radius rods. which means they're just as prone to bending, but they won't take the framerail with them!

there are 14" 6-lug wheels. IIRC from isuzus.

bingo. they even have their own control unit! the speed sensor is in the dash...

IIRC, it's just one wire to bypass the neutral start switch (or you can connect the one on the tranny to it). I don't think it even throws a code. quote from a fellow MNSubaru member, who's done a couple 5-speed conversions on imprezas: "when i did mine, assuming the legacy harness is the same as the impreza harness all you should need to do is on the plug that goes into the shift selector box on the auto tranny( should be a gray 12 pin plug) all you do is jumper the 11 and 12 pins and that will allow the car to start(just jumpers the starter relay). this will allow the car to start if is in gear or not though, so you don't have the safety of the nuetral safety switch. but this is a quick easy way to make the car able to start."

adapters? who needs adapters? got a drill? go to the Junkyard, buy yourself a set of 6-lug chevy/toyota/isuzu/etc. steelies, and drill them out to the 4-lug pattern. or drill your hubs to 6 lug, and pound in new studs....

direct bolt up, no fabbing required. you'll have to get a little creative with the cables...but the calipers are easy. check out my write-up in the USRM

yep, I've got a PT4WD linkage hooked up to the RX tranny in my loyale. and it works fine, the dual range linkage must be longer on the RX though, because the handle isn't in the right place...it works fine, but looks a little goofy. I can touch the 5MT knob to the Dual Range knob in 4th lo....

Yep. anything can be done with a welder, some time, patience, and cash. the biggest thing to consider about doing an engine swap into a subaru, is the size of the motor. There's nothing else in the world as short (both in height and length) as a boxer. if you want to use a subaru transaxle (ignore for a moment, the bellhousing differences), the entire motor will have to be in front of the front axle. this will make for some seriously crappy approach angles, and weight distribution. Or, go divorced tcase (which would simplify the bellhousing issue), and mount a diff under the motor. but if you're going to that much trouble, why do you need a deisel? the only advantage I see would be the lo end torque, but if you're putting in a divorced tcase, you'll have some nice, low gears to work with... or go RWD....but then, what's the point? go buy a pinto or something... as far as offroading a subaru goes, the motor is the last thing on a long list of shortcomings. and an EJ motor is a very easy upgrade, and has gobs of torque. and the EJ22 is, quite possibly, the most bulletproof motor ever.

yea....that is the one and only downside. although baccaruda found a way to mount an XT6 caliper to an EJ knuckle....and maintain the front handbrake. but in all reality, the 200SX rear caliper swap is VERY easy!

yep, it's either Ozified, or SJR. having owned/abused a wagon with an AA kit, and one with a BYB/Ozified kit, and talked to SJR about what he's doing, and seen his work. if/when I ever build another lifted subaru, it'll have an SJR kit. no questions asked. the BYB kit is tough, but the design compramises some very crucial unibody components.

Phizinza's got the right idea. you're power will come via the Main Relay. which is, most likely, brown and has 6 wires. 2 wires coming from the battery (you can splice that in yourself, just run a wire with an inline fuse right from the battery), 2 wires the power the harness, one coming from the ingition switch, and one ground. you'll also need the fuel pump relay, which (IIRC, I know this is the case with the EJ's.....but not so much on an ER27) has 4 wires, 2 should tap into that wire from the battery, one go to the pump itself (I couldn't find the wire in the harness...so I just strung one of my own), and a ground wire that goes to the ECU. if that relay has power, and the ECU has power and grounds correctly, you should be able to feel/hear the fuel pump relay switch on momentarily when you turn the ignition on.

I'll never forget, the first Crawl 4 the Cure. we had a big group, of almost all Jeep Cherokees and Wranglers, and then MorganM and I in our EA82s. there's one spot on the trail where there's a very tight switchback, and morgan and I were the only ones who didn't have to stop and back up on that corner! Even the wranglers, whose wheelbase is so much shorter, didn't have a prayer.

if you're using EJ knuckles, than FWD impreza axles will be the missing link. They've got 23-spline inner cups, and will slide right onto a non-turbo GL tranny.