Numbchux

I think I'm going to get my wrist rocket, and a bag of raquet balls, and come pay you a visit btw...do I see a rear sway bar on that thing? I definately see endlinks......

actually...IIRC the non-D/R FT4WD 5MT is more common than the D/R one. as the D/R one only came in RXs....

on top of the sweet, 6-page spread in 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility magazine. an article was just published in the latest MS connections bulletin: and I just heard this from the organizer: Last saturday night The MS society held the Sylvie Awards Banquet. In honor of the founder Sylvia Lawry. HTR 4x4 Club & TCOR both won a Sylvie award for raising atleast $2000. We also won a "Mission Possible" award for raisning atleast $1 for every person in MN & WI with MS (7500 people). The Crawl 4 the Cure was the highest money raising 3rd party event this year @ $24,611.00 it's going to be July 20-22 next summer....so anyone in the area, mark your calendars, and I hope to see you there!!!

the stock motor would work just fine with 25 or 26" tires. especially if you fit it with a weber carb, or even go fuel injected. an updated power plant won't weigh much more than the EA81. the weight difference should be the last of your worries when contemplating an EJ swap. But I would highly recommend it. the Phase 1 EJ22 is a very cool motor! the Auto tranny's are crap for offroad. they use a clutch pack to transfer power to the rear end, and under load, will slip, leaving you with pretty much just FWD. also, with my experience with the 3AT, they're not strong enough to handle that kind of abuse.

yep. and should yeild about a 2" lift....

wow. sweet. how?! body lift like EA cars? how much?

there are a handful that have done the divorced transfer case route... the power to weight ratio on an EJ22 vs any EA motor, is not really even comparable. and they're very light to begin with...if I was building some crazy custom thing like this, I'd definately go with an EJ22!

I would suspect that the lift springs would limit travel, just like cranking up the adjustable suspension on EA cars. you could probably have some strut extensions made....but they'd have to be custom.

NGKs...period bosch, autolite, etc.....never in a subaru.

I have a pic just like that! except it was of my blue wagon and the flatbed driver was just turning around so he could back up our driveway, and leave it in our garage! the ones I've gotten rid of. the '85...totally because of rust. when I bumped into a tree doing some light wheeling, and it changed the shape of the car, I decided that was enough. but virtually all of it's parts live on in my current cars. the black lifted '88. mostly because of rust. it just couldn't hold up to the beating I was giving. and my mom was going insane with all the cars I had stored at her house. so I gave it to a really good friend of me. who welded a whole crapload of scrap metal onto the framerails and radius rod brackets...and wheels the crap out of it to this day. my mom's old DD. the '92 legacy. coming up on 240k miles, almost all of them here in MN (we bought it in florida with 30k on it). needed an axle, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings etc. etc. and I wanted the motor. so she bought an '01 legacy, and we parted out her old one. many of the parts went into my dad's current DD, the '94 legacy BJ wagon, that was supposed to be a parts car, and turned out to be in awesome condition. the engine is in my loyale. and I've saved the front suspension parts to go towards the 5-lug swap.

the problem with cranking up the suspension. is you loose travel. ALOT of travel. especially if you go 1.5" or more. if you're just mudding, and you don't really need any suspension flex, go for it. but if you're on trails that require flex, a lift would be much better (and you'll get better approach and departure angles too!)

my buddy in his hatch. just cranked up the suspension, hacked the crap out of the rear fenders, removed the fronts, and slapped on some 29" super swampers. he's lifted it since then....but it still performed very well!

not if it was an automatic. and that still doesn't solve the problem of the offset mount on the EA81 firewall.

no hurry. the exhaust probably won't get built until xmas break anyway....

the more I think about it. the more I think the oil near the exhaust is just a coincidence....

correct. the easiest way would probably be to just swap the trailing arms. 2 bolts on either side at the pivot point. one at the bottom of the strut, take off the axle and the sway bar (if applicable...if so...you might as well put it back on when you get it into your car!). brake lines, I beleive there's a clamp that holds one of the fuel lines to the trailing arm somewhere....or maybe it was the crossmember....either way, watch for that. and then swap 'em. as per the driveshaft removal. you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft without pulling it out of the tranny (and therefore loosing the gear oil). 4 little bolts on either end, and it should come right out. and no, XT6s all had rear discs. the pic above is actually out of a GL wagon....but it's the same setup.

nope. RX tranny's don't. and I haven't found an XT in the local junkyards yet, so I don't have a pitch stopper either... the problem they're talking about, is the EA81 pitch stopper is mounted off-center. and the XT bracket is centered. and there's no way to put the EA81 bracket onto the EJ22....

I would recommend doing this: notice the bottom tube is not as long as the top one. to match the shape of the car. the top one is also set a bit further out away from the car than the bottom one....it's very slick! I've never had any brush get into my rad. just get some C-channel, drill a couple holes, bolt it up in the stock bumper mount locations. then hold the tubes where you want the, and weld them on.

I've been amazed the last couple months driving my EJ-swapped wagon around in FWD. the thing refuses to hook up! I've got decent tires too, not track tires or anything, they're just basic all-seasons, but they've got lots of tread left. and I can pretty easily do a rolling burnout anywhere in 1st gear. carefully idle it up to ~8-10mph....floor it. and there's smoke! now there's snow....so I've been driving my lifted wagon for the last few days.... I'm going to make it my personal goal to finish the text portion of my EA-EJ writeup by the end of this week. hopefully get it to pdf file by the end of next week. especially since it looks like my wiring harness has to come back out

yep. you don't need to stick the outer axles through the hubs though....the axles disconnect from the spindles just like they do from the tranny or diff. a roll pin, and slide them off. don't even need to take the wheel off.

if the plugs look fine, than it sounds to me like the oil is not entering the combustion chamber. but beyond the block itself, I can only take a blind stab at what might be the problem in your application....

tube bumpers....no bender required. they look great, and are VERY functional:

fair enough. I listed all the parts you'll need from a FWD '6 in my previous post. if you swap the rear trailing arms, then the mounts at the hubs will be the same as a 4WD, but you won't have any axles or a diff. to swap to 4WD, you'll need the tranny, and this: gas tanks should be the same. the tank on my 2WD loyale had the indent for the diff when I converted to 4WD like I said, the rear suspension isn't anything even remotely similar to what a legacy's got. crawl under the back of an EA car, and then go look at the rear end of an EJ car.....they're like different planets. the AWD is only controlled by a computer (seperate from the ECU..) on the automatics. if they're both 5-speeds, you should be able to bolt up the tranny and wire up the diff lock switch, and you're set.

awesome! thanks a ton!!