Numbchux

rear ones are pretty similar. I bet you could make a set of those pretty easy too... they still wouldn't solve the spring perch clearance problem....

on an EA82, 'spacers' are the only way to go, there are no longer shocks dropping the rear crossmember makes it very easy to tweak/destroy the unibody where it bolts to. These are on my (formerly MorganMs) BYB lifted '88 wagon. passenger side, how it should look: driver side, after a hit (not a gentle one...but I barely made it that far up the hill to begin with...) and both BYB and AA drop the leading rod plate....which leaves the same problem. SJR extends the leading/radius rods. which means they're just as prone to bending, but they won't take the framerail with them!

there are 14" 6-lug wheels. IIRC from isuzus.

bingo. they even have their own control unit! the speed sensor is in the dash...

IIRC, it's just one wire to bypass the neutral start switch (or you can connect the one on the tranny to it). I don't think it even throws a code. quote from a fellow MNSubaru member, who's done a couple 5-speed conversions on imprezas: "when i did mine, assuming the legacy harness is the same as the impreza harness all you should need to do is on the plug that goes into the shift selector box on the auto tranny( should be a gray 12 pin plug) all you do is jumper the 11 and 12 pins and that will allow the car to start(just jumpers the starter relay). this will allow the car to start if is in gear or not though, so you don't have the safety of the nuetral safety switch. but this is a quick easy way to make the car able to start."

adapters? who needs adapters? got a drill? go to the Junkyard, buy yourself a set of 6-lug chevy/toyota/isuzu/etc. steelies, and drill them out to the 4-lug pattern. or drill your hubs to 6 lug, and pound in new studs....

direct bolt up, no fabbing required. you'll have to get a little creative with the cables...but the calipers are easy. check out my write-up in the USRM

yep, I've got a PT4WD linkage hooked up to the RX tranny in my loyale. and it works fine, the dual range linkage must be longer on the RX though, because the handle isn't in the right place...it works fine, but looks a little goofy. I can touch the 5MT knob to the Dual Range knob in 4th lo....

Yep. anything can be done with a welder, some time, patience, and cash. the biggest thing to consider about doing an engine swap into a subaru, is the size of the motor. There's nothing else in the world as short (both in height and length) as a boxer. if you want to use a subaru transaxle (ignore for a moment, the bellhousing differences), the entire motor will have to be in front of the front axle. this will make for some seriously crappy approach angles, and weight distribution. Or, go divorced tcase (which would simplify the bellhousing issue), and mount a diff under the motor. but if you're going to that much trouble, why do you need a deisel? the only advantage I see would be the lo end torque, but if you're putting in a divorced tcase, you'll have some nice, low gears to work with... or go RWD....but then, what's the point? go buy a pinto or something... as far as offroading a subaru goes, the motor is the last thing on a long list of shortcomings. and an EJ motor is a very easy upgrade, and has gobs of torque. and the EJ22 is, quite possibly, the most bulletproof motor ever.

yea....that is the one and only downside. although baccaruda found a way to mount an XT6 caliper to an EJ knuckle....and maintain the front handbrake. but in all reality, the 200SX rear caliper swap is VERY easy!

yep, it's either Ozified, or SJR. having owned/abused a wagon with an AA kit, and one with a BYB/Ozified kit, and talked to SJR about what he's doing, and seen his work. if/when I ever build another lifted subaru, it'll have an SJR kit. no questions asked. the BYB kit is tough, but the design compramises some very crucial unibody components.

Phizinza's got the right idea. you're power will come via the Main Relay. which is, most likely, brown and has 6 wires. 2 wires coming from the battery (you can splice that in yourself, just run a wire with an inline fuse right from the battery), 2 wires the power the harness, one coming from the ingition switch, and one ground. you'll also need the fuel pump relay, which (IIRC, I know this is the case with the EJ's.....but not so much on an ER27) has 4 wires, 2 should tap into that wire from the battery, one go to the pump itself (I couldn't find the wire in the harness...so I just strung one of my own), and a ground wire that goes to the ECU. if that relay has power, and the ECU has power and grounds correctly, you should be able to feel/hear the fuel pump relay switch on momentarily when you turn the ignition on.

I'll never forget, the first Crawl 4 the Cure. we had a big group, of almost all Jeep Cherokees and Wranglers, and then MorganM and I in our EA82s. there's one spot on the trail where there's a very tight switchback, and morgan and I were the only ones who didn't have to stop and back up on that corner! Even the wranglers, whose wheelbase is so much shorter, didn't have a prayer.

if you're using EJ knuckles, than FWD impreza axles will be the missing link. They've got 23-spline inner cups, and will slide right onto a non-turbo GL tranny.

I think I'm going to get my wrist rocket, and a bag of raquet balls, and come pay you a visit btw...do I see a rear sway bar on that thing? I definately see endlinks......

actually...IIRC the non-D/R FT4WD 5MT is more common than the D/R one. as the D/R one only came in RXs....

on top of the sweet, 6-page spread in 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility magazine. an article was just published in the latest MS connections bulletin: and I just heard this from the organizer: Last saturday night The MS society held the Sylvie Awards Banquet. In honor of the founder Sylvia Lawry. HTR 4x4 Club & TCOR both won a Sylvie award for raising atleast $2000. We also won a "Mission Possible" award for raisning atleast $1 for every person in MN & WI with MS (7500 people). The Crawl 4 the Cure was the highest money raising 3rd party event this year @ $24,611.00 it's going to be July 20-22 next summer....so anyone in the area, mark your calendars, and I hope to see you there!!!

the stock motor would work just fine with 25 or 26" tires. especially if you fit it with a weber carb, or even go fuel injected. an updated power plant won't weigh much more than the EA81. the weight difference should be the last of your worries when contemplating an EJ swap. But I would highly recommend it. the Phase 1 EJ22 is a very cool motor! the Auto tranny's are crap for offroad. they use a clutch pack to transfer power to the rear end, and under load, will slip, leaving you with pretty much just FWD. also, with my experience with the 3AT, they're not strong enough to handle that kind of abuse.

yep. and should yeild about a 2" lift....

wow. sweet. how?! body lift like EA cars? how much?

there are a handful that have done the divorced transfer case route... the power to weight ratio on an EJ22 vs any EA motor, is not really even comparable. and they're very light to begin with...if I was building some crazy custom thing like this, I'd definately go with an EJ22!

I would suspect that the lift springs would limit travel, just like cranking up the adjustable suspension on EA cars. you could probably have some strut extensions made....but they'd have to be custom.

NGKs...period bosch, autolite, etc.....never in a subaru.

I have a pic just like that! except it was of my blue wagon and the flatbed driver was just turning around so he could back up our driveway, and leave it in our garage! the ones I've gotten rid of. the '85...totally because of rust. when I bumped into a tree doing some light wheeling, and it changed the shape of the car, I decided that was enough. but virtually all of it's parts live on in my current cars. the black lifted '88. mostly because of rust. it just couldn't hold up to the beating I was giving. and my mom was going insane with all the cars I had stored at her house. so I gave it to a really good friend of me. who welded a whole crapload of scrap metal onto the framerails and radius rod brackets...and wheels the crap out of it to this day. my mom's old DD. the '92 legacy. coming up on 240k miles, almost all of them here in MN (we bought it in florida with 30k on it). needed an axle, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings etc. etc. and I wanted the motor. so she bought an '01 legacy, and we parted out her old one. many of the parts went into my dad's current DD, the '94 legacy BJ wagon, that was supposed to be a parts car, and turned out to be in awesome condition. the engine is in my loyale. and I've saved the front suspension parts to go towards the 5-lug swap.

the problem with cranking up the suspension. is you loose travel. ALOT of travel. especially if you go 1.5" or more. if you're just mudding, and you don't really need any suspension flex, go for it. but if you're on trails that require flex, a lift would be much better (and you'll get better approach and departure angles too!)