Numbchux

it's all here.

who's getting the entire back end? only need brake rotors, backing plates, and front control arms.

I have the video of that red brat on the dyno....hitting 495 awhp. the thing darn near takes off... but I beleive what you seek is this:

yes, but I don't have the time, space, money, or capability to get it here.....

yep, just about anything you can dream of is possible. Mechanically, everything will fit very easily. you'll want an engine crossmember from a turbo car, as it has a notch in it for the up-pipe. but a custom up-pipe can be made to go behind the crossmember and CV shaft. you'll need to completely replace the engine wiring. everything in between the engine and the ECU has to match. but, you could get an EJ22t ('90-'94 legacy turbo engine), harness, and ECU, or ditto from an STi, WRX, newer turbo legacy/baja, or Forester XT. you could just slap a factory WRX turbo (TD04), intercooler, and exhaust on your motor. the OBDII ECU can easily make up for the extra air. there's a local guy who's been running that into a stock EJ22 for almost a year now, with no problems, and when he scans the computer, it says the injectors are only running at 93%. HOWEVER, I would not recommend doing this to an EJ25 (what you have), even if it is SOHC (which yours probably is...). but in all reality, the best thing you can do for performance, is loose the slushbox. the drivetrail loss in an AWD auto tranny is amazing!! swap it for a 5-speed, and the power will be transferred to the road much more effeciently! the sky's pretty much the limit with these cars....Subarus = Legos!!

oh goodness no.....completely different mount. the EJ rotors slide over the lug studs on the hub. whereas on an EA car, the rotor bolts to the back of the hub. and on top of that, in the back, the EJ rotors have a little mini-drum in the center for the ebrake. unfortunately, the only brake upgrade option is 5-lug. then you could use EJ knuckles on the front, and THEN use WRX rotors and calipers. but still only XT6 rear rotors (bigger), and either stock calipers, or 200SX (same size caliper/piston, just has ebrake lever on it too). sorry...but you're options are pretty limited. but, the good news is, for 5-lug, you only need lower front control arms, rear rotors/hubs, and rear backing plates. everything else can either be regular EA82t, or EJ.

yep, you could do it that way. or if you swap the harness and ECU. it'll work, and should be almost completely plug and play. by harness, I do mean everything between ECU and engine, not just the small harness in the engine bay. you'll need to pull the drivers side fender. EDIT: WOA!!! I just notice, if those in fact, are yours. the green one pictured in the ad is a Touring wagon (raised roof), and VERY rare here in the US. If there's any chance of saving it, do it.

There are a couple of the best U-pull yards (U-Pull-R-Parts) down near my parent's house in the Twin Cities. but up here in Duluth, the only Junkyard is NOT a UPull yard. so I find myself doing these kinds of repairs far too often.

haha, I garauntee that combo will get you what you want (and probably more!). the RX springs will hold up most of the weight, and then there's another couple inches of potential in the adjustable struts!

:banana: I couldn't find a replacement for a reasonabe price (the junkyard here wants like $30!), and am tired of clearing the inside of my windsheild with my shirt sleeve....and having my toes freeze....so I had to fix it!

why wouldn't that work? 6-lugs are technically 6x 138.5. and it's barely even noticable.

the select moniter is the OBD I connector. it should be a dark yellow, 2x4, 7 wire connector. you'll have to trace the wires from something you know to find it... correct. the under-dash fuse box is all for other things. the necessary wiring really only needs one fuse, you'll need a fused wire from the battery, to the yellow wires on the Main Relay. trace the wires within the harness, and see where they go. I beleive that's the stuff that goes up into and across the dash. you'll need a couple things from there, but for the most part....no not directly to the ECU. the IGN switch wire goes to the Main Relay (big, 6? wire yellow relay in #5 in your pic). which supplies all the necessary power to the ECU.

so my HVAC control wasn't working. so I replaced it with one that used to work, and that didn't fix it. so I finally got around to tearing back into it today to see what the problem was, and found that it was just the switch. and by manually connecting the vaious vacuum lines, I could make it work. So, I came to the conclusion that, since I don't have A/C anyway, I'll pretty much only be using the Heat/Defroster. so using a T-fitting, I 'jumped' it so it's always in this config (with both the Heat and Defrost selected). then cut out the entire switch, replacing it with a rocker switch for the on/off. and mounted it where the whole thing used to be. so now I just have the temp control, fan speed control, and an on/off switch. here's the back of it in my living room: and here's what it looks like in the car: I used a piece of sandpaper to cover the extra holes, and removed the 2 white lights that backlight the depressed button, so the temp control is still backlit, but not the switch. the switch itself is pretty messy, but it only took me a half hour or so, and cost me nothing. AND, this means that the center vents won't be used.....I'm thinking that might be a perfect place for some gauges. or maybe cut it out, and mount a carputer screen in there.....

well, on my '88 lifted wagon....because it didn't work. this one, because I did an EJ swap, and didn't have a compressor, nor wanted to deal with the lines and such. both cars, I removed everything under the hood, including the condensor. never had a problem with engine cooling before removing the A/C. so no, no difference. still came up to operating temp, and stayed there.

I'd highly recommend these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003770/p-2003770/N-111+10201+600002818/c-10101 I've got a set. had them on my '85 for about a year. they're 2 different pairs of lights, in one. and, they use seperate bulbs. so you can easily wire them to 2 different switches, instead of the one, 3-way one it comes with. then you can control them individually...and have them all on at once! also pretty light weight. don't need much to hold them on. I used self-tapping screws on my '88. and that worked great. unfortunately, I dropped one this summer and broke the lense (Glass). so I'm probably going to have to buy a new pair.

no, the accord front springs are only for the rear. and there isn't any way to use EA82 rear shocks on the front. no way to hold the knuckle still. McBrat has RX springs on the front of his brat, with dual batteries, and a very beefy front bumper/winch. it seems to hold it up great. if nothing else, you could get adjustable front struts from an '85-'85 EA82 to get it to ride how you want.

this is a very good point, and the duty C bypass switch (for Autos) is not enough to turn a tcase. Mudrat tried that on his Beast-a-con, and couldn't get over a curb. so the tranny had to be pulled apart, and modified. Unfortunately, I've never heard of anyone else doing it, and he never was one to share his ideas, and now will be virtually impossible to get ahold of. Either way, if you use an EJ tranny, you'll have to pull it apart, and modifiy it to get all the power out of the rear output. or go even more custom, and swap in an EA82 D/R tranny (then you'd have 2 lo ranges! might be nice for 33s. 1.6:1 2WD) don't take that as criticism, though. I think it would be awesome. Just listing off a couple of the biggest issues with doing it.

correct, and just for the record, there is no difference in the brakes from FWD to 4WD. usually, it's the steelies. it may still be worth a test fit, but don't be dissapointed if they don't fit.

I've never had that problem. had this same fan on my lifted rig for about a year now. and my uncle's had one on his Land Rover (frequently wheeled) for probably about 5 years now....

still haven't had time to get the exact specs... but here's the setup I'm currently running... It's a 10" diameter fan. it can be set up for either side of the radiator, but since I've removed the A/C, there's plenty of room on the front of it. The same company makes a little relay, that has a temp sensor that attaches to the radiator. the 2 blue wires are the switched wires, one from a power source (directions say to use something switched, but I went right to the battery), the other to the fan. the little metal wire coming out the other side goes to the sensor, and the screw in the middle adjusts what temperature it comes on at. the fan attaches using little clips that go through the fins of the radiator. quick, easy, and strong universal mount. (you can see the temp sensor there too...it uses the same mount) and last, there's the fan, peeking out from behind the grill. That one fan, is more than enough to cool the EJ22, through a stock, 20 year old, single core EA82 radiator.

yep, or you can run it to a switch on the dash. it really isn't necessary to have the fan(s) on above about 30mph. actually, on my lifted wagon, I ran for months with just the stock electric fan, just manually switched so I could have it on all the time. then the bearing went out on it, so I replaced it with an aftermarket one. but the stock electric fan moves plenty of air for a non-turbo EA82. here's the setup I'm currently running on my EJ22 swapped loyale... It's a 10" diameter fan from Advance Auto Parts. it can be set up for either side of the radiator, but since I've removed the A/C, there's plenty of room on the front of it. The same company makes a little relay, that has a temp sensor that attaches to the radiator. the 2 blue wires are the switched wires, one from a power source (directions say to use something switched, but I went right to the battery), the other to the fan. the little metal wire coming out the other side goes to the sensor, and the screw in the middle adjusts what temperature it comes on at. the fan attaches using little clips that go through the fins of the radiator. quick, easy, and strong universal mount. (you can see the temp sensor there too...it uses the same mount) and last, there's the fan, peeking out from behind the grill. That one fan, is more than enough to cool the EJ22, through a stock, 20 year old, single core EA82 radiator.

yep, plenty.

I'd highly recommend removing the mechanical fan, and replacing with an Electric one. the EA82 cools itself very efficiently, and the clutch fan just robs power, and therefore mileage....

I think he means that he found some that could replace the EA82 coilover setup for longer travel. This is also a good idea....and I'm definately considering it.

like Jeffast said, they're different. similar, but definately not the same. That's why I say the 6-cyl is a completely different animal. They could be lifted using the same concept, but not the same parts (entirely...many of the parts are interchangeable....but not everything)