Numbchux

get a multimeter, and use it to look for A/C voltage between the 2 signal wires on the crank and cam angle sensors. each should generate a littlle voltage (not the same...btw, they spin at different speeds). check for this at both the plug on the engine, and on the same wires at the ECU. this was one of the problems with my EJ swap. the sheilded wire for my cam angle sensor was not letting all of the power through. IIRC we got about .5V at the plug on the engine, and barely .15V at the ECU. so it was sparking, but not at the right time. another thing to try, pull both the plug wires off the coil on one side, and crank it. the spark should arc to the intake manifold. it should have a relatively predictable pattern between the 2 (I don't remember if it's just back and forth, or if it sparks twice on each). That was our first clue, when we did mine, it would spark once on one, and then always on the other. When we strung some new wires (don't need to be sheilded....BTW) to this sensor, we got a regular spark pattern, and it would start with a little starting fluid in the throttle body (I still had to redo alot of things to get fuel...but that's a different story) also, to verify that you have fuel pressure all the way across the rails, pull the regulator off (back of the passenger side head), and put a bucket under the end of the rail. turn the ignition on (don't need to crank), you should have fuel come out of there for a second. but I'm guessing that while you were wiring the tach and temp wires, you bumped something that's causing it to not work now. probably crank or cam angle sensors.

have you tried starting it? I'd assemble it to the bare minimum to attempt starting, and see if it runs. if it's off, even just one tooth, it won't start, and if it does, it'll run like total crap. when I did my first timing belt job, I didn't remove the disty. I took the cap off to verify it, and had to adjust it for the ignition timing, but never had to take it off....

it's true 4WD, just like a truck, so when it's engaged, the front wheels have to spin the same speed as the rear ones. if you're driving in a straight line, that isn't a problem, but if you're turning, it is. if the surface you're driving on can't slip, your tranny has to. long story short, that binding feeling is VERY bad, and the entire reason why the car was designed with a 2WD setting.

WOW!! way cool! thanks!!!!!!!11!11!1

EJ22t is the engine code for the closed deck turbo block. I won't be using the turbo, just a blower. Twin charged systems are neat, but not for me....

keeping this somewhat realistic.... road car: 5-lug, with custom cryo treated and vented rotors tein flex suspension all poly bushings supercharged EJ22t (closed deck, but forced induction from a blower!!), stroked/bored to 2.35L, balanced to 8k rpms, wrx DOHC heads FMIC (yes, blowers can benefit from an IC too) 17" Rota D2s with very lo-pro R-compound tires custom wide-body kit RX ground effects custom underbody aero work, including a rear diffuser RX FT4WD tranny with lockable viscous center LSD and helical front LSD, and 1.5:1 lo range OR legacy 4.111 tranny with helical front LSD and viscous rear custom super lightweight flywheel wrx clutch disc I think that should do it (I plan on doing most of that anyway....eventually) wheeler: custom longarm suspension setup (retaining independant suspension, and allowing for suspension lift) custom telescoping axle shafts (so the shafts telescope, not the DOJs) stronger axle stubs 4:1 lo range 4.444 final drive air lockers front and rear NO divorced transfer case (all of the above in the stock transaxle) fully built high compression N/A EJ25 motor 2" receivers front and rear for removable winch 33" swampers (remember that suspension lift?) on-board air integrated front bumper/skidplate

this is a little late, but I just thought I'd correct a couple things here.... many people have turbo'd the SPFI EA82, with decent results. you can't push alot of boost through them, but you can push some. the high-comp block can take ~5psi of boost pretty well. the biggest problem with the SPFI is it's hard to get enough fuel in there to match the extra air. but a high-comp MPFI (one injector for each cylinder) engine runs pretty well with about 5psi max. and real quick spool also, for suspension. there are lots of options. even if you stay 4-lug. KYB GR2 struts are available as a bolt on for these cars, and the RX springs are pretty stiff, and will fit on there just fine. Also, many generic 'ebay' type adjustable coilovers will fit. I'm running 400/450 lb/in coilovers in my loyale right now. it needs the stiffer shocks REALLY bad, but the springs work. also, the XT6 sway bar bolts right into the front, and if you get the rear trailing arms from a GL turbo with sway bars, you can use the XT6 rear aswell. I've never heard of any poly bushings available. I see nothing wrong with the stock gauges. as long as the sendors work. besides, if the EA82 looses oil pressure, it'll tell you. the hydraulic lash adjusters will stop putting pressure on the rockers....and make a horrible ticking sound. you won't miss it unless you've got the radio really cranked. wheels. stock subaru 4-lug wheels were only 13s (well, theoretically 14s existed, but I only know of one set here in the US). and ANY 6x5.5" wheel will have the right size bolt pattern to be modified to work on a subaru. chevy, nissan, toyota, isuzu, etc. and yes, old 4-lug peugeots have the same lug pattern. and have 14 and 15" in both alloy and steel varieties. the alloy ones will need the peugeot (pug for short) lug nuts, or ball seats. only brakes upgrade for 4-lug is rear discs. 5-lug yeilds bigger rotors, but same calipers (unless you use legacy/impreza fronts.... = whole different can of worms). and once/if you start driving hard, the rear drums are not enough, discs make a world of difference!! sorry to go pick apart your post daeron. no offense intended. but I just wanted to make sure all the correct information was out there. personally. having driven a stock-EJ22 powered AWD legacy for a few months, and now a stock-EJ22 powered FT4WD loyale. I'd take the loyale any day of the week. it's noticably quicker! I think they're quite a bit lighter! if you're a decent mechanic, and know you're way around a wiring diagram, a sweet EJ22-powered AWD (yes, you can use the legacy true AWD tranny) loyale could be built for similar cost to buying a legacy/impreza with the same setup. and will be quicker, and FAR more unique! I would HIGHLY recommend it!!! but, if you're not up to huge extensive drivetrain swaps, and want something a little more performance oriented right out of the box. an AWD impreza would be the ticket!

I tried getting my '92 legacy radiator to fit in there, and had nothing but problems. and since I don't have easy access to a welder, I wasn't about to go cutting and pasting. it was so easy to just get the napa bushings to adapt the lines, and plug it in. and it's been more than enough cooling power, even for the daily hillclimb that is the city of duluth (been called little San Fran more than a few times). I also had to mount a fan on the front of the radiator too, definately no room for any stock EA82 or EJ22 fan on there, maybe a slim EA81 one...but I didn't have one to try. have any pics of how you modified the support to get it to fit? I'd love to add that!

I hear an XT pitch stopper and bracket will work. it bolts onto the EA tranny, not the engine. and has a shorter pitch stopper which should fit right in. I'm running without one right now, and the engine doesn't seem to be shifting too much (I pulled the shift boot off so I could see the tranny, and then did a few hard shifts...). but I do intend to get one very soon.

also, when using the momentum of the car to try to turn over the engine, 5th gear is lower. if you want to try pulling it and dumping the clutch again, put it in 5th hi...

Looks like you guys had a blast! sorry I couldn't make it...but it's just too crazy this time of year.

not done yet, and neither is most of page 3. and I'll add some pictures too.

the driveshaft still rotates even when in 2WD. could be u-joints, it's certainly worth a look. sounds sort of like tranny mounts, but that would explain it while not under load. But check all those anyway, and also look at the pitch stopper mounts. those things aren't terribly likely, but they're very easy to diagnose.

sure thing. I've heard of people using the EA81 wheels on an EA82 by using a few washers on the lug studs. but that makes me a bit nervous. might aswell just get the right ones.

not just any 4-lug subaru. the Justy had a small lug pattern, so those won't work. and most EA81 wheels won't fit over the EA82 brakes. gotta get a set from the same body style as yours (EA82). so any GL/DL/RX/XT '85-'89 except the 2 door hatch or brat. or any loyale no justy no brats no XT6 (5-lug) no hatch's

^^ all true. with that said, I'd like to clarify about the silverstars. they're not just tinted bulbs, they do burn hotter (a touch more likely to burn out....unfortunately), and most definately do put out more light than a regular Halogen of much higher wattage (I back-to-back tested it! DEFINATELY better!)

yep, the crossmember is different, however a custom up-pipe could be bade to go behind the crossmember and passenger side axle. a buddy of mine and I put a turbo on his 2.2l impreza. we used a t-fitting on the oil pressure sending unit, and bent a custom line up over the intake manifold to the turbo. and had an inlet welded onto the oil pan for the return line. the coolant lines can be tapped into the heater core lines. we also had a custom up-pipe made so the stock crossmember could be left. if you're doing a full engine swap, I'd recommend swapping the crossmember aswell. it's virtually the same amount of work. I'm also fairly certain you'll need the wiring, but I'm not sure on that. you're best bet for information on this sort of swap, is http://www.nasioc.com or http://www.rs25.com lots of information on either site about swapping EJ motors and what works best and how to do it.

when I finish my car's buildup, I plan on having my XT6 rear rotors cryo treated. and then using legacy front knuckles, for upgradeable goodness.... I really want to see if there are any rear caliper upgrades for a 200SX

I've never head of anyone doing it...and I don't know why you would. the RX tranny is already geared pretty low. the only reason I can think of needing that little extra gearing is when offroading....in which case you might as well just use a part-time 4WD tranny, and not mess with the center diff lock.

well, the EZ30 is going to be at least as much work as any other engine swap, and probably more, because it's physically a biger motor. and doesn't have that much potential unless you're doing a full-on build, and still.... the automatic tranny is you're #1 problem. they rob horsepower, and even more torque, like nothing else. if it's even remotely a possibility for you, I'd be looking at a 5-speed swap first. N/A motors can easily take some boost. there's a local guy who just slapped (as much as you can say that) a WRX turbo/intercooler on his impreza. the OBDII factory engine management system can easily compensate. now, running the full 8psi of boost that the WRX turbo can put out in stock form, he's sacrificing some reliability, and he knows that. but that turbo can be modified to put out about 4-5psi. which should be good for about 50hp at the wheels, and won't sacrifice your reliability much at all (depending on how you drive it)

There's DeathHatch's hatch....HUGE, and with solid front and rear axles. I think he had some trouble with the steering linkage, however.... I know he's got some awesome pictures of how he mounted all the leaf spring shackles and stuff in his photo gallery here on the board. and yes, of course a full frame has to be built. mostly because that's the only way to mount a divorced transfer case, which is more than essential in this sort of a project.

Hey, looks awesome! don't take any of our comments the wrong way. we all love to see other guys modding their soobs, and doing what they were meant to do.... but, in all reality....I bet both of my EA soobs (one 4" lifted, other lowered w/ EJ swap) cost less than your outback and are just as reliable. Just have to know where to look :cool: but at the end of the day....I certainly understand the saving-money-cause-I'm-a-poor-student lifestyle :-\

you're missing out

gas tanks are the same. no need for a swap also, don't need a center punch. there are already little 'divots' where the holes need to be drilled. you can't miss, really! but yea...that sounds like an awesome plan. definately doable!