Numbchux

well, let's see, you'll need a turbo EA81 crossmember, or a custom up-pipe (that goes behind the crossmember), to get the exhaust gases up to the turbo. as far as the motor goes, the EJ22Ts already have forged internals, etc. so any machine work you do will be above and beyond that. you could have your crank balance for smoother running, and higher redline. you could have your cylindars bored and get larger pistons, you could get pistons that lower your CR (more peak boost, more lag). the heads are pretty good, but you could get WRX heads (DOHC) and improve your flow (a buddy of mine is doing this, DOHC EJ22T....essentially a 22b motor). BUT, I think the 200hp mark could be easily done with an improved turbo, and better flowing exhaust/intake. just do some maintenence things on the motor while it's out (once it's in, you won't be able to do much work on it, they're tight even in the EA82 engine bay, it'll be worse in the EA81s...) and as I'm reminded as I see raven's post. the open deck EJ20's are all easily capable of 200-300hp. even in USDM form, and an EJ20G like that one would be closed deck, very easily capable of 300+hp. an EJ20G like that one would also be newer, which would mean OBDII....which means 2 things, ALOT easier to tune/modify and have it run well, but harder to wire, not terribly, but there is more to it, and a slightly more complex ECU....just something to consider yea....I just started that EJ swap page, so it's not done yet...I suppose I should put a little 'under construction' graphic on there or something.....but I'll finish it soon. but essentially you want to pull all the wiring from the firewall forward, without cutting anything. Then strip it down so that all you have are the wires to the motor/sensors, and the ECU, the few gauge wires, and CEL read connectors. of course, if you're doing some fancy engine management....that's a bit different, and depends on which one you go with. 5-lug on an EA81 is pretty different, because your strut towers only have 2 holes, instead of EA82's and EJ's that have 3. which might mean you could just drill 2 or 3 holes in the right place, reinforce them, and be set. but I don't know. EA81 struts will not work with XT6 or legacy knuckles, however. If you can convert your strut towers to 3 hole, you can use legacy knuckles/hubs/rotors/calipers/struts/springs/axles. but you'll still need XT6 control arms, and rear hubs/rotors/backing plates and calipers (if you don't already have them, they're the same as 4-lug calipers) if you do use legacy front brakes, you'll lose you're handbrake, so you'll probably want to use 200SX rear calipers so you'll have a parking brake (I did a nifty little write-up in the USRM on how to do that). *This is all speculation...someone please correct me if I'm wrong* I wouldn't say the D/R 5-speed is too weak, they haven't really been tested. BUT, I'd rather go with the legacy 4.111 tranny. having driven a legacy with that tranny for a few months this summer, it's real nice. the RX FT4WD tranny is geared too short, even for the N/A EJ22. even though it's final ratio is only 3.70, the gears are too low. it's only advantage is the lockable center (way cool), but the legacies have a viscous LSD center anyway, so the performance is real similar. And PT4WD would suck, cause FWD is pretty much useless in an EA car with the torque of the EJ motor. whew....did I miss anything? and I'll try to work on that page some more tomorrow....but don't worry, it'll be done by the time you get ready to do your swap. I may even have a pdf version for easy printing. EDIT: I found a pic of my buddies custom up-pipe to go behind the crossmember and axle on his impreza when he turbo'd it: also, you'll want XT6 sway bars. seriously, if you're serious about this, get an XT6 parts car, especially if it's a 5-speed. I'd use a 3.90 5MT from an XT6 for this aswell....and some (if not all...I'm not sure) still had a locking center diff!

it says in your profile you've got an '84 wagon, but the one in your avatar looks very much to be an EA82 ('85+)..... photobucket is great, but if you're only going to show the pics here, it's just as easy (if not easier) to just attach them to the thread. you'll see a button when you're posting under 'additional options' called 'manage attachments'

yep, they're not much to look at, just a little peice of rubber hose clamped onto the bleeder. anyway, I didn't copy them to my computer. so I'll give morgan a call and see if he can email them to me. otherwise...I can just go take a new pic or 2 next weekend. I'll be seeing the buddy of mine that I sold that wagon to. and those speed bleeders are still hangin on!

add some marvel mystery oil with the new oil. and drive it for a few days. I bet it'll get better

I have a set of cheap adjustable coilovers for a GC8 impreza (95-01 i believe) on my Loyale. they're 450/400 lb/in springs on the front and rear respectively. with an XT6 front sway bar (still no sway bar mounts yet in the back), and stock shocks. it handles SOOO well, even with the cheap M+S tires I have on it now. it's pretty bumpy, but real tight. if you're staying 4-lug, the best shock you can get is pretty much the GR2. But if you go 5-lug, you can use impreza/legacy fronts, and get KYB AGX's (adjustable!!). Watch this thread for info on fitting 2000-current legacy GT rear stuff to your EA82. here's what it looks like now: and yes, very small world here with the older subarus, most of us know exactly what car you're talking about when you say you've got russ's old wagon EDIT: found a pic of those springs. they're R-1 Racing brand, though I haven't been able to find any others like them.... stock impreza on the left, R-1 racing coilovers, JDM WRX STi ver. V (or VI, I don't remember) on the right:

Morgan's not a subaru guy anymore. and I wouldn't be suprised if he is cleaning out the space on his server. I'll see if I have them copied, otherwise I'll call him and see if he still has them anywhere. Also, I just thought I'd add to this, for anyone who's thinking of doing the 200SX rear caliper conversion, the bleeders in those calipers are the same as the EA82 fronts.

I love how they don't match! are those the same tires/wheels you had on the ol' turbo brat? I know you had 30s on redrilled white-spoke chevy 6-lugs, and those look like they've been around awhile.... either way....they look awesome!

exactly correct. the autos have an electronically controlled hydraulic system that controls how much pressure is put on those clutch packs. can be modified to either release (FWD fuse under the hood), or lock (AndyJo did this with his Imp). anyway, Austin and I went up to the Iron Range ORV park near my house. it's THE place to go wheeling in MN. his imp did awesome. no sand or anything, so it's not quite the same, but we never noticed any slip between the front and rear. he got high-centered, with one front wheel off the ground, and the rears on the ground, and one of the back wheels dug a whole trying to move the car on it's own.... regardless, I'd take a part-time Dual range box any day.

Very true, and should be considered. but I've been running them with a stock EA82 radiator (not a very good one either....it's got more than a few bent fins), with just one electric fan and no problems. yet... *knock on wood*

well, if you think those foresters had open center diffs, then they're different than any AWD EJ tranny here in the states. as I know for a fact that they're ALL LSD center. yea, worn synchros are common. every MT subaru I've ever driven has 'em. (of course they all have pretty high mileage). consider yourself lucky yours doesn't. the bigger tires make it worse, I tried 2 different trannies in my lifted wagon that both shifted great on stock tires, but not on big ones. had to double clutch just to get it into first while moving. IIRC, since the 5-speed has an extra gear, all of them are a bit closer, and 1st is a bit lower. I'd have to double check before saying for sure.

too much sheer force on that lift block(s) will pull it out of the framerail. whether the bolt's loose or not. it helps to have the AA one peice design, but nonetheless. These cars aren't real tough, they'll do some amazing things, but only with careful driving, otherwise they will just fail, as you're finding out.

regardless of the tread pattern, 10" wide tire vs 8.5" wide, that's the difference between digging through to solid ground and stuck up in the muck. not to mention 26" tall vs 29"...there's an 1.5" of pure ground clearance. and then, the lugs are too far apart, with the weight of a car on them, they won't push enough material to maintain any momentum..... sounds like 3 times to me but then, that's mostly speculation.....I say go for it, and tell us for sure how it all works out.

well, I'm not sure how to replace just the glass. but I put a lawn mower handle through the back window of my old '85 GL Wagon. I got a whole new hatch from the local Junkyard off a Loyale. pretty easy swap. and it's way easier than making sure the gasket seals, and the defroster still works, etc. That's how I did it, worked great....Good Luck!!

so does that mean that any rear suspesion for an '05 LGT can be put in the rear of an EA82? I'll be needing some real suspension next summer....hopefully this will open a new door or 2.

Ah, I see.....well, in all honesty. you pretty much can't go too big if you're only doing a cat-back. I'm not running anything beyond the cats. I've the y-pipe, mid-pipe, and that's it. so I've got 2 'cats' (though they have 240k miles on them....there pretty much rotted out), and no muffler. gives it a nice bark, and it's still got gobs of lo-end torque. when I get a custom system made, I'm going to go with ~2.5" the whole way. I know a couple local guys who've done this, and it seems to give a nice sound (with a resonater and thrush glasspack), and lots of torque.

Sorry guys, I'm not going to make down there this year. I just don't have the time to be driving all the way down there 3 weeks into the school year. so...good luck....have fun.....and TAKE SOME PICS

I'm not sure about over there, but here in the US, EJ AWD trannies all have center LSDs. the 5-speeds have a viscous coupler, and the 4EAT have a series of clutch packs. it's the fronts that are only LSD in the STi. but you can get aftermarket ones (OBX makes a nice helical one for a reasonable price, not sure about over in AUS, though) that work just fine. and after driving my loyale for a few weeks with the RX tranny (1.2:1 lo range), it's just not enough. there's almost no difference at all. anyway, if I were you, I'd go with a mildly built EJ22 and an EA82 5-speed D/R tranny (that's what I plan on doing next summer )

haha, either that or the 'similar threads' links at the bottom of the page.

that's because it's 3 years old :-p

don't need to replace them. don't need to modify them at all, just use an adapter from 1 1/4" (radiator side) to 1 1/2" (engine). not sure what you mean with the exhaust question. IIRC, none of your stock EA81 exhaust will work. you'll have to use some of the EJ exhaust, and have the rest custom made anyway. LOTs of really good info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48848 and I'm trying to put together all the info onto one site, I've got alot of it already done, but not all of it: http://www.geocities.com/NumbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ

ANOTHER 3 year old thread?!

at 8-9 psi....yes at ~5 and somewhat conservative driving.....no

I don't know if I have a pic of it, but I've got mine out, so if I have time this weekend I can take one. anyway, Allied Armament here in the states basically took those three blocks, and put a peice of metal along the outside edges to connect them all, that way the forces are applied more efficiently to the unibody. Scott....I'd really like to know how you did it. have any pic of your modified radius rod??

a buddy of mine did this, with upgraded injectors, and piggyback ECU ('96 impreza L auto with PerfectPower 6 for management) and only 5psi of boost (EA82 wastegate on TD04) and had nothing but problems. he actually took it off about 6 months later for the sake of reliability. BUT, another local guy just did the same, except with stock injectors and ECU, and 3psi more boost, and it runs awesome! as long as it's an OBDII (which your car should be) it's smart enough to compensate for the extra air. and he said that when he ran the OBDII diagnostic tests, it said the injectors were only running at 93%, so there's some room for more boost!!! now, keep in mind, although it's running awesome now, he only did this because he just finished his EJ22T (closed deck) build up, and wants to kill the motor that's in it. he is not expecting it to last through the winter. long story short, I've got no definitive answer, just a couple personal situations to think about. if I were doing this (and I might....someday), I'd run less boost, and no management.

then you must have had the wrong nuts or something.... either way, you only need the pug nuts if you're using alloy wheels. as they need the big centering washer. not necessary for the steelies.