Numbchux

Ah, I didn't follow that. Not much I can tell you remotely. I'd be printing out all the diagrams for everything on that circuit and working my way through it with a multimeter

I just did it on my '00 Outback, and did a how-to https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/fog-light-modification-how-to.519679/

Wagon? IIRC, the backup lights on that are in the hatch. The wiring harness that passes from the body into the rear hatch is pretty notorious from breaking with the fatigue from opening and closing the hatch causing all kind of electrical gremlins. It is absolutely possible to splice in a new section of wire, but the most complete fix is to replace that whole harness. We kept them in stock at the dealer where I worked, and MSRP was about $80. Pull the back edge of the headliner down, and unplug that harness from the body, and then see if your fuse blows.

I had the EJ switch on mine hooked up to some other warning light on the EA82 dash. Something with the AT, maybe? My car was originally an auto, and swapped to a manual at the same time. Yes, stock sensors are BSPT.

False There's a wire or 2 in the circuit running to the headlight switch so they only work with the low beams on. I've modified this on almost all my cars. sirtokesalot, if you'd care to enlighten us as to what you're working on, I'll answer your question. I normally will not even respond if I have to ask this.

Look them up on RockAuto. Most brands list extended and compressed lengths of the bare strut. The upper mounts are all the same, so that should give you an accurate baseline. It won't tell you spring rates, so there's some variation in how it'll sit once it's loaded...

Turbo legacy didn't have a cap on the radiator, the bleed came right off the expansion tank on the motor to the overflow tank. I would put a higher-pressure cap on the radiator, and then run both hoses to the overflow, just in case.

By far the #1 problem for radio replacements when I worked at the dealer was bluetooth pairing issues. If it's under warranty, bring it to the dealer. My mom's 2012 Impreza radio stopped connecting. We bought a used one (don't remember if we found a local yard, or bought on ebay) and swapped it in. Or get as much information off the radio as you can (faceplate ID, brand, etc.) and call the dealership parts deptartment. There are some factory remanufactured options that aren't terribly costly.

Trouble Codes? My first thought is a post-MAF air leak. i.e. hose off, cracked intake tube, etc. But that's a stab in the dark.

I don't have the diagrams in front of me. Is this something that maybe could be tested from the pump side? There's at least 2 feet of snow on the hood of my XT6, but if this weather keeps up, I might be able to get to it enough to get the hood open this weekend. Won't be able to get the trunk open and get to the ECU until I can move the car, which won't be until the snow thaws AND ground dries up....

This comes up in the images search that carfreak posted. This is very common discussion with performance EJ block selection, as all 3 forms are available No easy answer to that without some serious thermodynamics engineering. And being that yours isn't going in a Subaru, airflow will be all different from most of the documentation. But the EA/ER engines have very weak cooling systems, heat will probably be your biggest challenge, depending how hard you try to push it. Err on the side of caution with radiator capacity, oil cooler (at least oil/coolant exchanger, oil/air can be hard to prevent overcooling) would likely be a good idea. A radiator that struggles to keep a 90hp EA82 cool can keep a 130hp EJ cool without any fans. Don't run a lower temp thermostat, though. Aluminum engines don't like being run cold, either. But if you've got adequate cooling capacity, you shouldn't go over "fully open" temp on the stat.

You speak the truth. One of the reasons the EA/ER engines have such a terrible cooling system. I've seen a couple big closed-deck EJ22t cars that required so much more cooling capacity than it seemed similar semi-closed blocks required.

Whoops. Tried to just add [url ] tags....fixed now. Yes, it's the same company. I haven't bought Subaru parts there, but I've bought others. I use their website all the time, as it will actually show you if a part is discontinued. Glad it was an easy fix!

Yep, there's a steel line under the intake manifold, with a little rubber hose up to the throttle body, that's likely your culprit. Can be capped off or bypassed. I love Toyotapartsdeal.com, and they have a Subaru counterpart (www.subarupartsdeal.com)

Agreed on the pins. When you replace the caliper, is it semi-loaded (comes with a bracket)? If you're reusing the bracket/pins, that's probably the problem. I keep a very close eye on my caliper slides on all my vehicles, and periodically clean and regrease them. Having far less issues since I started using Permatex Ceramic high temp brake lube.

Not much I can add here.... But FYI, a 2011 OBS will be a 4-speed 4EAT transmission. Last year in the Impreza chassis.

Yep, check for trouble codes. It's probably trying to tell you what's wrong. Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there's fuel in there. That can cause some weird running issues. Question the age and condition of the spark plugs and wires. If it's a 2.5 (96 Outback could be either one, autos had the 2.5, manuals had the 2.2) the plugs aren't terribly easy to get to, so have new Copper NGKs ready if you're going to check them. The 2.2 is pretty easy to pull one and inspect it.

"when you punch it", what if you roll gently into the throttle? It's completely normal for an electronically controlled transmission to skip from 4th to 2nd in necessary situations.

Yes, when changing ride height, the "correct" procedure is to loosen the bolt for any bushing that twists around the bushing during travel and retorque it at ride height.

So, your tail lights are on, but not the front parking lights? If that's the case, that's quite the issue. Might be something simple, but that's not likely the stop light. I suspect you've got broken/shorted wires, and/or corroded sockets and blown fuses. Do your front parking lights come on at all? Get a good wiring diagram (jdmfsm.info) and multimeter, and start testing.

Yep, been done hundreds, maybe thousands, of times.

Subarus use diagonal systems, one circuit will be LF/RR and the other RF/LR. It does not matter which is which. The 2-port master is for the ABS cars, because the ABS system is the "T" that splits the 2 circuits into 4. The hill holder does the same. So yes, you can just use a splitter. Similarly, you can use a 4-port master (non-ABS, non-hill holder) by blocking off the extra ports. Off the top of my head, the Loyale is probably a 7/8 bore, and the Legacy is probably 1". This will reduce the mechanical advantage between the master and the caliper/cylinders. Good option if you've also replaced with larger capacity calipers, though (I have a 1 1/16" SVX master in my XT6, but I also have early WRX front calipers, and 200SX rears)

01-04 Outback VDCs are the only cars I want for a daily driver. I LOVE the first gen EZ30D (2nd gen means immobilizer, which adds a heap of complexity, expensive keys, and a CEL disables the cruise).

I've always been taught to use a little dielectric grease on plug wires so they don't stick during install or removal and to keep any moisture out.

subaruairbagrecall.us doesn't appear to have a website (could still be a valid email, but suspicious). No mention of any mobile repair/contact on https://www.subaru.com/vehicle-recalls/airbags.html Here's a job posting on LinkedIn, though. https://www.linkedin.com/jobs/view/recall-specialist-at-marketsource-inc-1692844397 F'n weird