Numbchux

not sure what you mean....all the kits run the higher risk of having the bolts coming loose. but if you're referring to the leading rod mounts getting horsed up with the new 'one-piece' blocks, I don't think so. they're a HUGE improvement!

chef_tim found the longer studs IIRC. you don't need new studs, however. you just need the pug lug nuts. as they have large centering washers on them, or get the ball seats. find the post stickied in the wanted section, McBrat posted a link to the ball seats that allow you to use the subaru nuts with pug alloy wheels

Just to the left of the radio, there's a little vent looking thing. it's immediately behind there. 2 wire pink plug. easiest way to access it is by removing the radio

strut rod....aka leading or radius rod? the one going back from the control arm? if so, I had mine pull out. not because of loose bolts, just because those three blocks (early AA design, I've since moved to the update one piece design), don't transfer the forces effectiently. a buddy of mine and I fixed it, we cut out the area around each nut, welded a new nut to a big ol fender washer, and then welded that into the hole. it's been real solid ever since!

OK, I'm in the process of compiling all the information I can find on the EJ-swap onto one page. I'm using my Geocities account, but when it's done, I'll submit it to the USRM for publishing right here on the site. anyway, here's the link: http://www.geocities.com/numbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ I'm mostly using info from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48848 I'd like for you guys to check it out, and as I go, let me know if I should make any changes, whether it be in the formatting, or information. especially including spelling and grammer. I don't want it to look like I'm a total moron I'll bump this thread whenever I update the page.

yea, I spent many extra hours to hide/protect the wiring. how fast? it's hard to say, but it's definately the fastest N/A EJ22 powered car I've ever ridden in

OK, now that I've got things pretty much setup how I want it, I thought I'd post a few pics and a few mod list of my '92 loyale frankenwagon. now known as 'Swapzilla' ok, it started as a '92 loyale wagon, the SPFI EA82, and the FWD 3AT tranny. it was reliable as all getout, but slow, and crappy. mostly as a result of the tranny. as a result it inherited the nickname POSUV. well, after I got my '85 5mt d/r wagon, the loyale just sort of got pushed into the woods a forgotten. now, a few years later, we'd already parted out the '85, and it came time to do wheel bearings, ball joint, tie rod ends, shocks, etc. etc. on my mom's 240k mile '92 FWD 4EAT Legacy. so she replaced it with an '01 legacy. and, we began parting out the '92. this last spring I bought an RX tranny, and matching rear LSD. and a pair of adapter plates (one for the loyale and the other for the lifted wagon, a project for next summer). and this summer, I put it all together. using the rear trailing arm assembly, pedal box, and linkage from the '85, the RX tranny, LSD, adapter plate, and EJ22. Also, I got a set of 400/450lb/in adjustable coilovers that a buddy of mine had on his GC8 imp, as well as XT6 sway bars (only the front one is currently mounted), and a rear disc conversion (using 200SX calipers, for rear handbrake, though I haven't connected the cables yet.) I also used the front bumper and grill from my '85, instead of the fat lip look of the loyales. aswell as the white wagon wheels quick list: '92 loyale 4WD conversion MT conversion Rear disc conversion rear handbrake conversion XT6 front sway bar EJ22 RX FT4WD D/R tranny custom one piece driveshaft 400/450 lb/in adjustable coilovers White Wagon wheels and some pics, first with my H-alloys on it (these have real crappy tires, so I just did it to run to a local subaru meet one night): underhood: couple scenic shots here in Duluth:

bump. I want to know how this works!!

I didn't mean to say you didn't know what you were talking about. just that it also looks alot like the northern MN dirt too: it looks almost radioactive in that pic, might be the time of year. btw, that's Morgan's real wagon on the right

now that you mention it. my dad has a 90 amp alt for his Z31 that he got out of a maxima. IIRC, the easiest way to make that work was get a crank pulley off the maxima aswell so you can just run the serpentine belt, instead of the v- BUT, apparently if you get a v-belt pulley off a GM car with an internal fan (all of those things are crucial, and somewhat hard to find), it'll complete the puzzle. he already tried using any of the pulleys off of the number of subaru alts that I have laying around, and none of them worked.

technically you can do it from underneath/behind. but probably only if you've had it all apart, and know where/how it goes together. but it may be worth a try.

yea, my speedo cable pulled out, I just rerouted it under the pitch stopper. and yea, my shifter hit the trim around it, I had lots of trouble getting it into any gears. there's a nut on the back of the linkage, that attaches the whole thing to the body, this allows for some adjustment. loosen that nut a bit, and allow it to shift, then retighten. you could also put a bunch of washers on that stud to drop the linkage down a bit, but then you're 4WD lever would probably hit the trim before it get's into the FWD position. this may help some, although I still had to grind on the trim with a dremel to fix it all.

oh yea, the stock unit is a 60amp unit, IIRC. the 90amp XT6 alt can be fit in there, but it's not the easiest conversion. however, the 100amp GM alt from the late 80s is a pretty common conversion. I beleive there's a big thread on it here in the old gen forum.

there's an idea! my carpet's sliding all over the place....

hate to burst your bubble....but all GLs have them, with or without the sunroof

so, I had my door panel off today to try to fix my power window problem (which, btw, I fixed ), and I noticed that the loyales front doors have different handles than GLs, and I also noticed that the hole for the third screw is there behind the panel. a hole in the panel, and the little plastic insert that the screw goes into, and it could easily be switched. anyway, it made me think. anyone ever tried to put GL maplights, or the little light in the rear, into a loyale?? I can't think of any other major differences...

yep, I've only had one axle permanantly fail that still had a good boot (btw....don't buy/use NAPA reman'd ones!!) I've found a generic CV boot from JCWhitney that's quite big for this application, so it's travel is never strained, they seem to be more durable than the stock ones.

sorry man, I'm talking about a legacy motor, hence the CAM angle sensor, not crank.....I guess I just assumed people would know what car I was talking about since I've been having so much trouble with my EJ swap this summer, my bad :-\ but, like I said, it appears to be working again. without the sheilding. I can't think of a reason why I should string new wires if it's working fine. I doubt it'll do anything but make it run like crap if it needs to be sheilded, and even if it does more, I've got extra sensors and an ECU....so I'm just not going to worry about it for the record, the 2 signal wires I used have pretty thick insulation. so that probably helps

if you've done a body lift, it makes no difference. I started running into problems when I was running almost 5" of pure suspension lift in the rear. but now that I'm down to about 3, I haven't had a problem yet. I've never had a clicking EA-series axle last very long, maybe it's just the mud up here, but as soon as the boot tears, and some mud gets up in there, it breaks (even before the lift). my mom's legacy, however.....went about 10k miles with clicking CVs... long story short: no

you happen to be right, but it also looks almost identical to the iron ore rich dirt we have in Northern MN... and no, I had Morgan's old wagon for the last 6 months or so....and it doesn't look nearly that nice

no, theoretically (from the side of the can) you can run it for as long as you'd like, but I've heard from many sources that it should only be run in there temporarily. also, when you're done with the oil change, add some Marvel Mystery Oil....it seems to do wonders on the valvetrain of these cars (HLA's and such)

the lo range reduction is just like another gear. so you can shift it at anytime just like you would any other gear. if you've got part-time 4WD, you have to worry about being in 4WD at speed and on pavement, but the lo range part isn't a problem.

thanks for the suggestion on the microphone cable, I've even got some laying around! and no, the crank and cam angle sensor wires are not grounded to that cluster. the sensor end is probably grounded through the sensor (as previously mentioned), but the other end goes stright into the ECU. it does not tap into the ground anywhere else in the harness. this is not in question. it's one of the few things that all the diagrams agree on, aswell as the harness. all I wanted to know, is if it needs to be sheilded, not where or how it's grounded. which, as it turns out, was not my problem, my electrical tape had come loose on the ECU side, and I was getting a bad connection there.

dang, I just moved up north for school last weekend. definately no time this weekend to drive down there. but if you've got the time, Duluth is such an awesome place to come be a tourist (it's why I moved here). it's about 2.5 hours north of the cities...and you're more than welcome to crash at my place, and check out my ru collection....

now, every time I post something like this, someone says that one side is grounded....but it's not. there's a third wire that goes to the sensor on one end, and the ECU on the other, and connected to the shielding. there are plenty of places in the harness where sheilded wire is used, and just one end is spliced into a ground, but the crank and cam angle sensors are different. well....I guess I'll try to find some sheilded wire to use, and an extension cord long enough to get my soldering gun out to my car....