Numbchux

so we were having problems with the sheilded wires that go to the cam angle sensor, so just for testing sake, we just wired in 2 individual signal wires, and no sheilding. it's worked fine for a week or so, then it died this morning. I ended up leaving it on the side of the road and walking to school. when I got back this afternoon, it would barely run, I limped it home and it's throwing a cam angle sensor code (aswell as an injector #1 code, but I think that's a seperate problem :-\ ). anyway, I don't want to have to tear things apart enough that I can replace those 2 wires with a sheilded one (or find a sheilded one to replace it) unless I know that's the problem.....

unfortunately, the distributer is driven off the drivers side cam, so if that belts starts slipping or breaks, the car won't run. the thing about EA82s, as GD started at already, the hydraulic lifters will make some horrible sounds long before you're actually out of oil or oil pressure. as long as you have oil, and the engine isn't making any ticking sounds, I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure. now...the metal on metal etc. sounds, however. that's certainly something to be concerned about.

+1....100% if you've got the flywheel marks on, and you've missed the cam timing by a tooth, it'll be noticably off from that seam. remember, the 2 should be 180 degrees different from each other. so check one side, rotate the engine over once, and check the other (usually driver side first, but either way will work)

of course! I just hope other people can get as much use out of it as I did! btw, I left it at it's full ~2,500x3,000 resolution so it can be easily read and printed out. so it's big! I think I'm going to start compiling all the info I've read and experienced onto a page somewhere (anyone know of a good place?) hopefully those of you who have done the swap can contribute! EDIT: holy 2,000th post batman!!

I would HIGHLY recommend trimming down your EJ harness! I thought it would be easier to just transfer the whole thing, and not have to worry about it....and that's why it took me 3 months to finish the swap. once I decided to strip it down to the bare minimum, it only took me about 8 hours basically, if it doesn't either go to the ECU, or the engine, trim it out. when you're done, you should have all your sensor/ignitor plugs, a ground (or 2, but make sure it's a big wire, and connected everywhere it needs to be), a batt +, a IGN +, temp gauge, tach, and Fuel pump +. I used an old dash backlight to wire in a CEL right into the harness, it ends up being right next to my clutch pedal, easier to read codes than an EA82. an oil pressure light would be a good idea. and Vehicle speed sensor/reed switch might be a good idea too, although I didn't hook mine up, and it only seems to be throwing a code as a result. not sure about 45psi on the fuel pump, I thought it was more like 32, but I can tell you the stock SPFI pump in my loyale is enough. and that your carbed pump is not nearly enough. also, make sure to leave that california setting ungrounded! these should work with your car since it's OBD I...

Here's the ECU pinout that saved me!! HUUUGE help!

ok.....

just put the first 60 miles on my loyale post-swap....and it's AWESOME!! I was cheap, and used my virtually new EA82 clutch kit that was in my lifted wagon....and it is not strong enough to hold everything the EJ22 can give! it's enough to get me around, but I can't use more than 1/2-3/4 throttle, and it still accellerates quite a bit faster than my legacy or any EA82 car that I've owned ever did! also, there wasn't even a hint of vibration from the flywheel! very smooth running, even up to high-rpm. :banana: I've got a few good diagrams, including a FSM and ECU pinout for a 92 legacy. I'd be more than happy to help in the making of a write up for this swap, much like the SPFI conversion manual

my 92 and 94 both have only 2. yea, the sound of it starting was awesome :headbang: anyway, I scanned the 2 pages of the ECU pinout...if someone has access to a source where very high-res pics can be hosted. that'd be awesome! I'd just put them in my photobucket account, but that resizes it so much that it wouldn't be legible, and it's already pretty hard to read. but a HUGE help!!

yea....who'd a thunk all that?? anyway, on the '92 FSM, the wire in question is pin C11 on the ECU. like I say, it's a Green one with a Black stripe. it goes from there to the engine harness, and you'll see, it's one of the middle ones on the smaller plug (pin 7 on F26 on the FSM). and on non-california cars, you can see it on the body side of that plug, but not the engine side! I noticed this on the harness I was working on, and thought it was way weird, so I went and looked on my dad's '94 legacy, and sure enough, same way. and the plug on the body side was NOT grounded!

about the flywheel, I did mine myself. with a dremel and grinding stone bit.....and just got the motor started last night, but revved it up to all of 5k rpms, with zero vibration! I have to admit, even with 88hatchmonster's reassurance, I was pretty nervous about modifying the flywheel, but it turned out great! I just used the flexplate from the EJ22 (donor car was an A/T), and kept modifying the holes until I could drop the bolts through all 8 holes. then walked over to the engine, lined it up, and bolted it in! worked like a charm!

well, I spent all day today putting on coolant lines, bleeding brakes, installing bumper, renewing the license tabs, etc. so I didn't get it posted up. well, first, we tested the crank and cam angle sensors, and found that when testing the A/C current generated by the cam sensor while cranking was about .5 volts at the plug on the engine, and only about .2 or so was making it to the ECU. so while it was firing, it wasn't always the right time. but we fixed that, and it didn't help, so we pulled the legacy harness out....again....set up a table (sawhorses and a piece of plywood), lots of good light, a couple pizzas, and lots of mountain dew, and 3 different versions of the wiring diagrams (one '92 FSM that I got from tex as a pdf, one FSM-based version in the Chiltons manual, and the haynes version, which doesn't have any references to which pin in the harness each wire goes to, but it has 99% correct colors!), and a complete pinout of the ECU (my buddy that was helping me works as a mechanic full-time, so he got it from the computers at work). we went through wire-by-wire, and made sure we had continuity between the ECU connector, and the other end (wherever it went form there...be it cam angle sensor, 02 sensor...or whatever), and we soldered all the connections (I had alot of crimped butt-splices....not a good idea ). then we sorted all the ign + wires out, and made sure they were all connected to the main relay somewhere. then we sorted all the batt + wires (only a couple, IIRC), and hooked them to one, fused wire that we could connect to the battery. then made sure everything that needed a ground had it. THEN, we found a discrepency....and a possibly crucial one. there's a wire, a Green one with a black stripe, that on the FSM diagram just goes to a ground on the engine. I didn't have a ground there when I had tested it before, so I spliced it in there. Well, when we had the harness back out, I traced it to the connector on the engine harness, and found that the wire doesn't come out the engine side of that harnes. so, we checked it on the ECU pinout. and it's a jumper that tells the ECU whether or not it's a California car. so if this is grounded it uses different settings for the California emissions standards. and we suspected, that it could be a different fuel/ign map, that doesn't exist on non-California ECUs....and that it confused the ECU...Anyone ever heard of that?? anyway, enough of that....here's a short clip taken at about 3:45 yesterday morning: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-833013657343945103 that's with stock legacy y-pipe and midpipe, and no axle back (= 2 cats, no muffler)

IT WORKS!!! but it's 4am...full explanation of what I did to make it work tomorrow....but it took about 10hrs....

and it worked! I remembered seeing this thread, and thought I'd look up the order before I bleed mine today....and it was the first one to pop up! anyway....are you sure your booster is connected/working? I don't think that would effect how many times you have to pump it, but it would certainly effect how strong they are!

yep, GD is right....once you get used to it, it's much easier to do them both at once. but I know that if I had tried it that way the first time I did my own timing belts, I wouldn't have got it on the first try (but I did!). I'd recommend doing it the 'right' way a couple times before doing it all at once. it's easier to spend a little extra time doing it the first time, than doing a sloppy job the first time, and having to do it again....'measure twice, cut once' as they say

you set the driver side one straight up, align the flywheel marks, install and tighten that side belt. rotate the crank one full turn back to the flywheel marks (driver side cam mark should be pointing straight down), then put the passenger side cam mark straight up, and install it's belt. that should get you on the road

I guess I'll check that. the timing belts were done only a few thousand miles ago, and I didn't touch them when I swapped the motor over. UPDATE: the timing belts are fine. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body....and got nothing. I added a couple grounds in a couple places under the hood. made sure all my solders for crank and cam sensors had held, and weren't shorting to any adjacent wires. I'm going to have dinner, and then pull a fuel rail and see if the injectors are getting signal... truth be told, I haven't figured out how to pull codes on these

I thought I'd post a new thread, so those of you who actually might help don't have to sort through the play-by-play of my weekend in the garage, and I'd just give the cliff notes. anyway, I need this car running this week. school starts a week from today, and I need to have this car then. SOOO I'm getting desperate. here's the story: I have: Spark (which means ECU is getting signals from most, if not all sensors) Compression Fuel pressure to/through the rails but no combustion I've checked: power/grounds to ECU (tomorrow will double check, probably will add a couple more ground wires to the body too....) continuity between the ECU and TPS, knock sensor and all 4 injectors fuel lines are hooked up correctly to the rails for clogs in the rails (I removed the pressure regulator, put a bucket under it, and turned the ignition on, and fuel came out...) plugged the ECU into our '94 legacy, and it works fine I'm also assuming that all the sensors etc. on the engine work fine, since this engine ran awesome in the donor car before it was pulled. and it wasn't transported at all, just lifted out, it hung on the hoist for a few hours while I redrilled the flywheel, then I dropped it in the loyale. I did just realize that I never installed the O2 sensor....it's plugged in, but just sitting in the spare tire well (wires will need to be lengthened, and I forgot). would this cause my lack of fuel? I figured a bad signal is better than no signal at all, and it should at least squirt in a little fuel, but it's not firing at all....nothin... please, any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I've heard them just say MY__ and put the model year after that.....like MY01 or MY98....I've always just assumed it stood for 'model year'

I'm assuming that the injectors aren't getting a signal. but if my cam/crank angle sensors weren't hooked up, wouldn't I NOT get spark?? EDIT: just plugged the ECU into our '94 legacy, works fine. and I pulled the pressure regulator off, and there is fuel running all the way through the rails. so it has to be the injectors. I'm having trouble beleiving that all 4 signal wires from the ECU to the injectors are getting bad signal, but I'll rig something up to test that today. is there a sensor (i.e. crank angle etc.) that JUST controls fuel? and wouldn't effect the spark? EDIT 2: I just checked, and I have good continuity between all 4 injectors, the TPS, and the knock sensor and the ECU...

I wouldn't think so...this engine ran AWESOME when we pulled it out of the donor car 4 feet from where it sits now...

MNOHV.org (which was started by our own MorganM) is hosting a peaceful rally at the MN state capitol this fall. Anyone who can attend I highly recommend it... Date: October 21, 2006 (Saturday) Time: 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM (noon) Location: Minnesota State Capitol: South Mall near Aurora Ave. more info: http://www.mnohv.org/events/savethetrails.php and http://www.mn-jeep.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8126 (you may need to be a member, but the MN Jeep club is the center of most of the positive, legal offroading here in MN) The Chuxwagon may be making an appearance at the rally as an example of a safe, legal ORV. mods....a sticky would be highly appreciated!

probably, it was built by/for Ratty2Austin in Washington, then he sold it a couple years ago to NoahDL88 in Michigan. Noah has since sold it and moved back out to Washington.... it was one of the first in the country to do an EJ22 swap into an older style subaru. I pioneer of sorts...

yep, I doubt anyones going to be in the shop until monday anyway, even if it weren't for the show. and I'm pretty sure you'd be the first to get an EJ lift, so I doubt anyone's got a manual for it, are you sure it's the right lift, and just the wrong manual?

never heard it called the MY...just gen 2s/EA81s....maybe you guys refer to them differently down there. don't forget hatches, they were all EA81s just like the brat