Numbchux

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/bratguy-decals.html quick search for "subaru font" turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/soobfonts/soobfonts.html

hella optilux has a basic combination driving/fog lights (2 bulbs, 2 diffusers, one case!) that's pretty cheap considering it's 2 pairs of lights, and all required wiring! I got mine from JCWhitney: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003770/p-2003770/N-111+10201+600002818/c-10101 heres how they were on my '85 (even though that bumper/grill is now on my loyale): and, you can easily get 2 radioshack rocker switches, and wire each pair of lights to it's own circuit, which also allows you to turn on both pairs at once! that's 4 55w bulbs in those 2 little packages!

very common. check the retrofitting section. I beleive you've got the 4-speed, which isn't so tough, but the 5-speed.....is btw....legacies didn't come with a turbo 2.0. just imprezas/WRXs, legacies had 2.2 or 2.5

ok.....so I'm a spaz.....I had the diode on backwards...so I've got spark now... but it still won't fire. I've got the fuel pump relay completely rewired, not running off the ECU. would this cause the ECU to think that the pump was not hooked up? and therefore not tell the injectors to fire? EDIT: nevermind, just wired the relay correctly....still no go. so I've got: compression Spark Fuel pressure (to the fuel rails) but no combustion....oh yea....I've also got confusion

thanks for the link, and now that I look at it, I've read it before. anyway, XSNRG ground on the holder to make it clear, but I don't think it's quite that close. I'm afraid that in order to grind enough off, I'll grind it right through good to know he did it with a 4-lug car though! and yes, all the conversion parts where pulled from a MN junkyard, and the trailing arms and such were from my '85, which was an iowa car.....just a little rust there

yea, I've seen the FSM from a couple different sources, and the diagram appears to be identical to the one in my chiltons manual. so I hooked it up that way. anyway, I just went out and tested it on my dad's '94....and the green wire has power all the time, and the yellow is IGN +.....which makes no sense, because the green wire is the one that switches the IGN relay..so if there's power there all the time, how is the relay not tripped all the time :confused: GAAAHH, I know it's only been a little while since I origionally posted this, and most of the people who know are at WCSS....but PLEASE HELP ME :( :o (we need a crying smiley)

that does help....actually. I never even noticed that there is a switch on my multimeter just for the diode :-p ok, how about another question....which way is it supposed to go?? is it supposed to allow power to the ECU? or from it? my haynes and chiltons manuals don't agree. Also, the yellow wire feeding power to the non-ECU side of it, that's supposed to be IGN + right? Yea, I'm not sure how or when it happened, but my diode was removed (for the record, my dad did virtually all the interior stuff when we stripped the donor legacy :-\ ). so I've got to rewire it. I thought I had it right...but now I'm thinking otherwise

still...without a caliper, you should be able to put the wheel on, and set the car down. or are you talking about the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor?

ok, I finally got some time to put into my EJ22 swap project again. but I still can't get it to start. I've got no spark. I've got power to everywhere where the should be power at the ECU. I've got grounds everywhere there should be grounds. I've got power to the yellow wire on the coil pack. I tested all the sensor connections when I had the harness out this week. checked for continuity between the ECU connector and the sensor connector. so I've got a good connection from the ECU to the Crank and CAm angle sensor. knock sensor, ignitor, injectors, etc. the only thing I'm not sure about, is that diode. I've got power to the one side, but I'm not sure if it's working right, how can I test it at the ECU connector? I tried hooking my test light up to it and a ground, and got nothing.... any other ideas? how can I test the crank/cam angle sensors? they were good when I pulled the motor, but I might as well test them too.... btw, this is a '92 legacy EJ22

put the wheel on, put the car on the ground. you should be able to get at it without the center cap on your wheel otherwise...handbrake? or have someone (or a conveniently sized stick) hold the brake pedal down...

I beleive these calipers where off of an '87 Nissan 200SX. here are an EA82t rear caliper and a 200SX caliper side-by-side. you can see that they're very similar, with the exception of the ebrake bracket/lever: the difficulty comes with the mounting bracket. the holes are a bit further apart on the 200SX mounting bracket, so the brackets must be switched, this walk-through will show how to do that: what you'll need: 14mm socket/ratchet (impact works best) 10mm wrench (preferrably brake line wrench) Allen key for EA82 caliper (not sure on size...anyone?) possibly a vice-grips 2 EA82t rear calipers 2 200SX rear calipers if you're doing the rear disc conversion at the same time, you'll need more tools and parts for that, see other write-up for that list. first off, remove your existing calipers (not necessary if you're doing a rear disc conversion now) remove both brackets from both calipers from the same side: now you'll need to switch the pins that the caliper bolts to, and that allow them to slide on the bracket, since the face where it mates up to the caliper is different: 200SX on left, EA82t on right Grease the ends of the 200SX pins and slide them into the EA82 caliper bracket, making sure the boots are seated firmly so they will not let in water, or let the grease out. now, bolt the bracket to the backing plate (remember, the brake rotor must be installed now): For those running a 4-lug setup, something will need to be done about the ebrake cable bracket, otherwise it will hit the trailing arm: simply bending it may be a solution before you go any further, make sure the rotor spins freely. now, install your pads (need to be EA82t ones, and you might as well put in new ones) if there's more pad left on the EA82t pads than there were on the 200SX ones, you'll need to turn the piston into the caliper. a special tool is available for this, but if you've got the caliper out, a channel-lock plyers or pipe wrench can be carefully used from the side to turn it. now, bolt the caliper to the bracket and connect the brake lines: bleed the system hook up your handbrake cable (lots of ways for the cables, it's been said that you can just reroute the stock cables towards the back, and that'll work. or you can replace the handle and cables with something that's already rear ebrake, so the lines are the right direction. I'm using a legacy handle/cables, and I've seen a honda accord set used aswell.) repeat for the other side.

yep, I should've mentioned that. I've not known anyone to have the same kind of problem with the EA81 kit. however, I've looked a bunch at EA81 suspension, and from what I can tell, and from pictures I've seen. that same spot would need to be dropped in order for the suspension to work without reclocking the torsion bar, which both AA and SJR require. and, I just noticed you have an 84 wagon, I don't know why I was thinking it was an EA82

I appreciate the link, but that doesn't really help me, since I've already got nissan 200SX rear calipers on the car. and will be using legacy handle/cables. here's what I'm talking about. in this picture, the top bolt on the caliper bracket is in, so you can see the bracket for the cable hitting the trailing arm (circled in red). and you can also see how close that second bolt is. I suspect the bigger backing plate from the XT6 would keep that far enough away that it wouldn't matter, which is why I think it'd be ok for those swapped to 5-lug, but 4-lug stuff is just a bit too small. I'm going to try to just bend the bracket, since the cables will need some serious adjustment to get them to work right anyway...

I'm sure this thread will be locked, as it's been discussed. but I'll respond anyway.... AA doesn't make lifts anymore (or not for a competetive price....they might make you one for 700 though) http://www.SJRLift.com makes kits very similar to the AA design there are lots of Die-Hard BYB fans here. it's definately tried and true! as someone who has owned, and wheeled an AA lifted wagon, and BYB lifted one. I will say that I won't be paying money for a BYB kit. no offense to PK, they're very well built, and solid. but those rear trailing arm blocks are far too vulnerable. those need to be tucked up tight against the body, it's just not a very good design. There are those who will say that it sacrifices articulation, but I tested them back-to-back, and the differences are negligable, if any, and well worth the sacrifice!! I won't argue this on the public forum, it's turned into a shouting match too many times. But like I say, I have owned, and wheeled each lift, and would be more than happy to give you some info on it. feel free to send me a message!

Well, the difference is between EJ and EA series cars. the EAs (anything before '90, and loyales and XTs) could come with part-time, true 4WD. any EJ series (legacies, imprezas, foresters, and their assorted trim packages...) where all single range, full-time AWD (here in the US anyway). a Dual-Range 4WD tranny could be swapped into an EJ series car, but would require an adapter plate (to mate engine to tranny), FWD impreza axles (correct inner spline count for the older tranny stubs), and a custom driveshaft. and probably some custom linkage work, but it has been done, and could be done again.

specifically with 200SX calipers on a 4-lug car I got my 200SX calipers a few months ago, but just got the chance to put them in now....and the bracket that holds the actual cable hits the trailing arm. Luckily I wasn't actually replacing the handle/cables just yet, so I just pulled off that bracket, but if I want to do it, I'll have to figure something out. it's close, so I suspect that with the bigger rotor/backing plate from the XT6, a 5-lug setup would keep it far enough away. too bad I didn't think to check it...since I've got XT6 backing plates in a box here anyway :-\ so, I don't remember who exactly has done the swap....was it on a 4-lug car? did you have this problem? I took a ton of pictures....and will be posting a full write-up later tonight

for the roof rack, you can use any Thule, Yakima or similar gutter-mount setup for the crossbars, and then that safari rack would work. otherwise TWE fabrications does a great job (his member name here is Soobme, and has made a post or 2 in the vender forum...check it out)

yea...funny.... I've done my stupid #$%^ in my life, but I'll say this anyway...you're lucky it was just a trash can and yes, I'm with GD on this one. probably ball joint.

yep, sounds like telltale loose axle nut sounds. even if it was good and tight when you first put it on. it'll 'settle' some after driving it, so it'll need to be retorqued. check both of them too. if the sound continues at all, pull the hub off and make sure that running with the axle nut didn't damage the splines on either the hub or axle.

haha, morgan did that with one of his. I thought about doing it, but by the time I noticed it, it had sprayed grease all over the place, and I doubt the duct tape would have stuck at all.

what?! I'm sorry, I know you're not an idiot, but you're obviously talking about something COMPLETELY different!! if you don't have articulation/travel, you don't have all 4 tires on the ground.... but yes, to reiterate/rephrase what's been already said. replacing just the springs is a suspension lift, just like it would be on a pickup or jeep. problem is, with an independant suspension setup, a straight-up suspension lift complicates things. ESPECIALLY on old subarus that weren't designed with trail-riding in mind. 2 things: 1) because in order to get the car to ride higher, you would need stiffer springs, and the car would be running closer to the struts' full extension all the time, you lose suspension travel (to get technical, an independant suspenion design cannot have articulation, hence the name independant suspension, NOT dependant....it's just travel, but just a technicality, and good to know), and in a car where true lockers are not available, and the drivetrain isn't really strong enough to handle it anyway (specifically diff stubs), this is crucial. and 2) the geometry of the suspension and drivetrain gets all thrown out of whack. specifically the CV axles, and alignment. also the tie-rods end up running at an angle, which screws up their functionality too. those adjustable coilover spring sets (ignoring for a second that they're not available for our subarus), are SUBSTANTIALLY stiffer than the factory springs. I have a set much like those on my loyale right now (NOT an offroader) and they could only lift the car by about an inch or so, but won't allow the car to compress more than an inch or so downward either. long story short. if you want the cheapest, looks-only lift, the best option is just like in the pickup/jeep world....body lift. and a body lift only makes room for bigger tires, which cost money, and will rob your gas mileage, and put more strain on things. if you can barely afford your stock EA82 subaru. DO NOT lift it! was that helpful?

I know austin! you can actually see the blue!! anyway, I found a blue that matches MUUCH better, and put that over the spots where I touched up the top half (I may still do the whole top in WRB....but that's a project for another day) and yes, brian, the bumpers need paint BAAD, but I couldn't get the old rust/mud crap off, and then it rained the only day I had access to a sandblaster...so that project will have to wait. the wheels will get a new paintjob too. not sure if I should match the 'dark bronze' of the 2-tone, go black again, or do something completely different.... anyway, I took it out wheeling this weekend for the first time in 6+ months!!! found out that the 3 torn CV boots didn't like sitting outside for so long, then driven 4 hours at 70+mph, then wheeled all day ........ they made some pretty nasty clicking noises....but as soon as I noticed the sound, I pulled over and stuffed a crapload of grease in there, and stayed out of the mud while wheeling, so I think if I pull them apart, and put a new boot and fresh grease on them, they should still be good (knock on wood....) pics to come....hopefully tomorrow, depending how the progress with the loyale goes...

it's 4" AA lifted, those are 28" tires. I've tried it before too, and didn't make it...then I got a rear LSD I'm heading up north this weekend to do some wheeling, hopefully I can get some good pics then!

so, I'm pretty much done resurrecting the Chuxwagon 2....except the #@$%$% distributer went out on it today. stupid distributers, I want an EJ swap anyway, finished the 2-tone paint to fix up the rust spots, and cut the fenders so they're not buckled from clearancing with the hammer. and put the tube bumpers from Morgan's old wagon on it. anyway, I posed it up on a couple car ramps in the driveway, and took a few pics....and here they are:

byb?