Numbchux

hate to burst your bubble....but all GLs have them, with or without the sunroof

so, I had my door panel off today to try to fix my power window problem (which, btw, I fixed ), and I noticed that the loyales front doors have different handles than GLs, and I also noticed that the hole for the third screw is there behind the panel. a hole in the panel, and the little plastic insert that the screw goes into, and it could easily be switched. anyway, it made me think. anyone ever tried to put GL maplights, or the little light in the rear, into a loyale?? I can't think of any other major differences...

yep, I've only had one axle permanantly fail that still had a good boot (btw....don't buy/use NAPA reman'd ones!!) I've found a generic CV boot from JCWhitney that's quite big for this application, so it's travel is never strained, they seem to be more durable than the stock ones.

sorry man, I'm talking about a legacy motor, hence the CAM angle sensor, not crank.....I guess I just assumed people would know what car I was talking about since I've been having so much trouble with my EJ swap this summer, my bad :-\ but, like I said, it appears to be working again. without the sheilding. I can't think of a reason why I should string new wires if it's working fine. I doubt it'll do anything but make it run like crap if it needs to be sheilded, and even if it does more, I've got extra sensors and an ECU....so I'm just not going to worry about it for the record, the 2 signal wires I used have pretty thick insulation. so that probably helps

if you've done a body lift, it makes no difference. I started running into problems when I was running almost 5" of pure suspension lift in the rear. but now that I'm down to about 3, I haven't had a problem yet. I've never had a clicking EA-series axle last very long, maybe it's just the mud up here, but as soon as the boot tears, and some mud gets up in there, it breaks (even before the lift). my mom's legacy, however.....went about 10k miles with clicking CVs... long story short: no

you happen to be right, but it also looks almost identical to the iron ore rich dirt we have in Northern MN... and no, I had Morgan's old wagon for the last 6 months or so....and it doesn't look nearly that nice

no, theoretically (from the side of the can) you can run it for as long as you'd like, but I've heard from many sources that it should only be run in there temporarily. also, when you're done with the oil change, add some Marvel Mystery Oil....it seems to do wonders on the valvetrain of these cars (HLA's and such)

the lo range reduction is just like another gear. so you can shift it at anytime just like you would any other gear. if you've got part-time 4WD, you have to worry about being in 4WD at speed and on pavement, but the lo range part isn't a problem.

thanks for the suggestion on the microphone cable, I've even got some laying around! and no, the crank and cam angle sensor wires are not grounded to that cluster. the sensor end is probably grounded through the sensor (as previously mentioned), but the other end goes stright into the ECU. it does not tap into the ground anywhere else in the harness. this is not in question. it's one of the few things that all the diagrams agree on, aswell as the harness. all I wanted to know, is if it needs to be sheilded, not where or how it's grounded. which, as it turns out, was not my problem, my electrical tape had come loose on the ECU side, and I was getting a bad connection there.

dang, I just moved up north for school last weekend. definately no time this weekend to drive down there. but if you've got the time, Duluth is such an awesome place to come be a tourist (it's why I moved here). it's about 2.5 hours north of the cities...and you're more than welcome to crash at my place, and check out my ru collection....

now, every time I post something like this, someone says that one side is grounded....but it's not. there's a third wire that goes to the sensor on one end, and the ECU on the other, and connected to the shielding. there are plenty of places in the harness where sheilded wire is used, and just one end is spliced into a ground, but the crank and cam angle sensors are different. well....I guess I'll try to find some sheilded wire to use, and an extension cord long enough to get my soldering gun out to my car....

so we were having problems with the sheilded wires that go to the cam angle sensor, so just for testing sake, we just wired in 2 individual signal wires, and no sheilding. it's worked fine for a week or so, then it died this morning. I ended up leaving it on the side of the road and walking to school. when I got back this afternoon, it would barely run, I limped it home and it's throwing a cam angle sensor code (aswell as an injector #1 code, but I think that's a seperate problem :-\ ). anyway, I don't want to have to tear things apart enough that I can replace those 2 wires with a sheilded one (or find a sheilded one to replace it) unless I know that's the problem.....

unfortunately, the distributer is driven off the drivers side cam, so if that belts starts slipping or breaks, the car won't run. the thing about EA82s, as GD started at already, the hydraulic lifters will make some horrible sounds long before you're actually out of oil or oil pressure. as long as you have oil, and the engine isn't making any ticking sounds, I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure. now...the metal on metal etc. sounds, however. that's certainly something to be concerned about.

+1....100% if you've got the flywheel marks on, and you've missed the cam timing by a tooth, it'll be noticably off from that seam. remember, the 2 should be 180 degrees different from each other. so check one side, rotate the engine over once, and check the other (usually driver side first, but either way will work)

of course! I just hope other people can get as much use out of it as I did! btw, I left it at it's full ~2,500x3,000 resolution so it can be easily read and printed out. so it's big! I think I'm going to start compiling all the info I've read and experienced onto a page somewhere (anyone know of a good place?) hopefully those of you who have done the swap can contribute! EDIT: holy 2,000th post batman!!

I would HIGHLY recommend trimming down your EJ harness! I thought it would be easier to just transfer the whole thing, and not have to worry about it....and that's why it took me 3 months to finish the swap. once I decided to strip it down to the bare minimum, it only took me about 8 hours basically, if it doesn't either go to the ECU, or the engine, trim it out. when you're done, you should have all your sensor/ignitor plugs, a ground (or 2, but make sure it's a big wire, and connected everywhere it needs to be), a batt +, a IGN +, temp gauge, tach, and Fuel pump +. I used an old dash backlight to wire in a CEL right into the harness, it ends up being right next to my clutch pedal, easier to read codes than an EA82. an oil pressure light would be a good idea. and Vehicle speed sensor/reed switch might be a good idea too, although I didn't hook mine up, and it only seems to be throwing a code as a result. not sure about 45psi on the fuel pump, I thought it was more like 32, but I can tell you the stock SPFI pump in my loyale is enough. and that your carbed pump is not nearly enough. also, make sure to leave that california setting ungrounded! these should work with your car since it's OBD I...

Here's the ECU pinout that saved me!! HUUUGE help!

ok.....

just put the first 60 miles on my loyale post-swap....and it's AWESOME!! I was cheap, and used my virtually new EA82 clutch kit that was in my lifted wagon....and it is not strong enough to hold everything the EJ22 can give! it's enough to get me around, but I can't use more than 1/2-3/4 throttle, and it still accellerates quite a bit faster than my legacy or any EA82 car that I've owned ever did! also, there wasn't even a hint of vibration from the flywheel! very smooth running, even up to high-rpm. :banana: I've got a few good diagrams, including a FSM and ECU pinout for a 92 legacy. I'd be more than happy to help in the making of a write up for this swap, much like the SPFI conversion manual

my 92 and 94 both have only 2. yea, the sound of it starting was awesome :headbang: anyway, I scanned the 2 pages of the ECU pinout...if someone has access to a source where very high-res pics can be hosted. that'd be awesome! I'd just put them in my photobucket account, but that resizes it so much that it wouldn't be legible, and it's already pretty hard to read. but a HUGE help!!

yea....who'd a thunk all that?? anyway, on the '92 FSM, the wire in question is pin C11 on the ECU. like I say, it's a Green one with a Black stripe. it goes from there to the engine harness, and you'll see, it's one of the middle ones on the smaller plug (pin 7 on F26 on the FSM). and on non-california cars, you can see it on the body side of that plug, but not the engine side! I noticed this on the harness I was working on, and thought it was way weird, so I went and looked on my dad's '94 legacy, and sure enough, same way. and the plug on the body side was NOT grounded!

about the flywheel, I did mine myself. with a dremel and grinding stone bit.....and just got the motor started last night, but revved it up to all of 5k rpms, with zero vibration! I have to admit, even with 88hatchmonster's reassurance, I was pretty nervous about modifying the flywheel, but it turned out great! I just used the flexplate from the EJ22 (donor car was an A/T), and kept modifying the holes until I could drop the bolts through all 8 holes. then walked over to the engine, lined it up, and bolted it in! worked like a charm!

well, I spent all day today putting on coolant lines, bleeding brakes, installing bumper, renewing the license tabs, etc. so I didn't get it posted up. well, first, we tested the crank and cam angle sensors, and found that when testing the A/C current generated by the cam sensor while cranking was about .5 volts at the plug on the engine, and only about .2 or so was making it to the ECU. so while it was firing, it wasn't always the right time. but we fixed that, and it didn't help, so we pulled the legacy harness out....again....set up a table (sawhorses and a piece of plywood), lots of good light, a couple pizzas, and lots of mountain dew, and 3 different versions of the wiring diagrams (one '92 FSM that I got from tex as a pdf, one FSM-based version in the Chiltons manual, and the haynes version, which doesn't have any references to which pin in the harness each wire goes to, but it has 99% correct colors!), and a complete pinout of the ECU (my buddy that was helping me works as a mechanic full-time, so he got it from the computers at work). we went through wire-by-wire, and made sure we had continuity between the ECU connector, and the other end (wherever it went form there...be it cam angle sensor, 02 sensor...or whatever), and we soldered all the connections (I had alot of crimped butt-splices....not a good idea ). then we sorted all the ign + wires out, and made sure they were all connected to the main relay somewhere. then we sorted all the batt + wires (only a couple, IIRC), and hooked them to one, fused wire that we could connect to the battery. then made sure everything that needed a ground had it. THEN, we found a discrepency....and a possibly crucial one. there's a wire, a Green one with a black stripe, that on the FSM diagram just goes to a ground on the engine. I didn't have a ground there when I had tested it before, so I spliced it in there. Well, when we had the harness back out, I traced it to the connector on the engine harness, and found that the wire doesn't come out the engine side of that harnes. so, we checked it on the ECU pinout. and it's a jumper that tells the ECU whether or not it's a California car. so if this is grounded it uses different settings for the California emissions standards. and we suspected, that it could be a different fuel/ign map, that doesn't exist on non-California ECUs....and that it confused the ECU...Anyone ever heard of that?? anyway, enough of that....here's a short clip taken at about 3:45 yesterday morning: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-833013657343945103 that's with stock legacy y-pipe and midpipe, and no axle back (= 2 cats, no muffler)

IT WORKS!!! but it's 4am...full explanation of what I did to make it work tomorrow....but it took about 10hrs....

and it worked! I remembered seeing this thread, and thought I'd look up the order before I bleed mine today....and it was the first one to pop up! anyway....are you sure your booster is connected/working? I don't think that would effect how many times you have to pump it, but it would certainly effect how strong they are!