Numbchux

exactly! well put

a little rubing is more than ok. if you've got more than a little, get out a hammer

ah....fair enough

yes, we do mean driveshaft. first off, what lift are you running? but yes, there's a little more angle on the driveshaft joints than there are stock. nothing a good ujoint can't handle, but if the joints on the way out. this'll kill it.

I guess it depends on the car, but on both of my EA82s, when we ripped the A/C out. we just used the same bracket and belt. there's plenty of support from the bracket where it's bolted to the intake manifold. and the alt belt is only an inch or so longer to compensate for the compressor (the A/C belt and tensioner can be removed aswell), there's plenty of travel in the alt to tighten things up.

yep, just like in a jeep or yota....

why are you swapping to an EJ 5-speed? that would just make wheeling harder. the only reason IMHO, to go to a subaru 5-speed, is for the EA series Lo Range. but if you've got an EJ series car, it seems to me that an Auto would be muuuch better.

the vibration could easily be your u-joints. I had this problem, no noticable vibration pre-lift. lots of vibration after the lift. when I had the tranny out to do a clutch a few months later, I noticed that the ujoints were pretty much seized....replaced the driveline (thank goodness for parts cars!!), and it went away.

I, for one, like having my LSD. you don't run nearly as high a risk of breaking stuff (like diff stubs) as you do with a welded. and it still gets you an extra push. and, if you're making quick wheeling stops, or do alot of driving in the snow, you still have shift on the fly 4WD....

I'm pretty sure the electric fan is also wired to a thermo switch on the radiator. if the coolant in the rad gets to a certain temp, the fan will come on. but maybe I'm wrong, and hopefully someone will correct me anyway, yes, you can just rip anything A/C related out. the condensor (or is it expandor...the one by the radiator...never heard it called a coil before) can go. all lines can go. there's a canister on the passenger side IIRC that's in the lines that can go. I think there's some wires that go to it, they can go. if you want to use the compressor as an air pump. save the lines that attach to the pump. those flanges would be difficult to duplicate if you had to..... none of my cars have A/C anymore

in my young, aggressive, and lazy year(s)....I found that a loyale will slide before rolling. I could get it to drift on dry pavement (it was FWD too...) I also found out what it's like to roll a tire off the bead. I didn't roll then either. just screwed up the tire, the pavement, and the balancing weight that was on the wheel. 4WD causes way more drag than you'll gain, even in a straight line...turning? forget about it. I never drove it on the track, but I did find out that as long as you're careful with the weight transfer, the understeer can be avoided...if you can find a secluded and NOT blind corner somewhere, give it a try. it's pretty easy to get the weight to shift, and get darn good traction around a corner. even on crappy tires. if it were me, I'd pull the rear axles too. then you won't have the rear end spinning, a little less rotating mass, little better accel.

I used a comalong. left the tranny attached to the car, lifted the engine up with the hoist, then pulled the engine forward with the comealong....worked great.

yep, tim had the pros do it. and still has had lots of problems with it. he's a member here, and although he doesn't post much, he lurks, and would get a pm if you sent him one. his screenname is Chef_Tim

I'm not sure if this is the right place. but I don't have anything for sale (yet), and it's specific to lifted soobs, so it seems like this might be it... anyway, how much have you guys gotten? a local friend of mine has an '87 4runner for sale that's in real good condition. he's offerred it to me for $1700....and is askind 2k to the public. can I get this much for my wagon? it's got a fresh motor (but still EA82), no rust, little body damage, lots of spare parts, rear LSD, lower mileage tranny, tube bumper, stainless steel skidplate, etc. most of you guys have seen it, and it's been featured in Subiesport.... anyway, I'm pretty bad at knowing the value of things unless I can research it first, and lifted soobs FS are pretty rare. so if I'm completely off my rocker, tell me, and I'll rest easy. but if I can get this much for it, I have to decide if I'm ready to part with my baby... sorry for the longwinded post :-\

IIRC, all STis have a front LSD. at least USDM ones and later JDM ones.

what makes you say this? not being critical at all...I just haven't heard it before

it's similar, but the 5-speed has the lo range rod on the passenger side....but it's the same idea. Dr Krazy did it on his lifted EA82 sedan. do a search for his thread, he's got some good pics too.

no special pullers needed. not even for the tie rod end. as previously mentioned: 36mm socket/breaker bar 3/16th inch punch 12, 14 and 17mm sockets (for brake caliper etc.), 3/8ths is fine heavy hammer (I like my 3lb mini-sledge) 3/8 socket extension, between 3 and 5-6" long remove axle nut (put in park and set handbrake, should lock up the drivetrain enough to get it loose.) seperate hub from rotor (4 14mm? bolts on front near lug studs) pull hub off axle stub pop ball joint out of steering knuckle (12mm pinch bolt, then some prying) or, remove control arm to engine crossmember bolt and one of the 2 swaybar bolts pound out springpin from inner axle joint (start from the divoted side) pull inner axle joint out away from tranny (will need to swing the steering knuckle out too) once the axle is seperated from the tranny, pound axle stub through the wheel bearings. grease stub on 'new' axle (I LOVE junkyard axles!!!) reinstall in reverse.... a little hijack here. if you do want to seperate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. no puller is needed. simply loosen the nut (but do not remove, this way if you miss with the maul, you don't mess up the threads) then hit the steering knuckle on the end near the tie rod end hard with a maul. this will cause the hole in the knuckle to change shape enough that it will pup the tie rod end loose from the knuckle, and the nut can be removed.

My buddy had a PP6 installed on his impreza L ('95 or '96...) and I helped him tune and modify his car quite a bit. The system worked quite well. but not enough for a turbo. when we started trying to advance ignition timing and really change the fuel maps, it would throw CEL codes, and run very poorly. but for a little extra power in a mildly modified application, this is a great system. and pretty much the only piggyback for an N/A application.

they don't weigh much as far as cars go, but they weigh a few times as much as an ATV. if an ATV + a couple people on it = subaru...then your ATV must weigh at least 3000 lbs!!!

I just hope they can handle the weight of a car on them, instead of an ATV....

there's no sense arguing this, but I will say this. down travel is limited by the shock. even with the trailing arm pulling the wheel forward, the shock stays virtually virtical, and so virtually all of it's extension goes straight down. here's almost full downtravel right after installing the lift: here's the pivot point pic: MorganM's fender trimming:

I'm not. the travel is limited by the shock. the arc just moves differently, not more, not less. I've back-to-back tested them (though didn't take any pics maybe later this summer we'll do it again), they flex virtually identically.

if you want to get an idea about how much you can cut without getting into the door. look for MorganM's image gallery, or if it isn't there, look for posts by him. I had his old wagon, and he cut his body out there as much as you can without cutting the door. He fit 29s (235/75r15) on a 3" BYB lifted wagon

I'm on the slowest dialup I've ever seen in my life right now, so no pics.... BUT, I have quite a bit of experience here to contribute....having owned/wheeled both a BYB lifted EA82, and AA one. GD has already said some of this, but I'm just going to repeat/rephrase some of it. the BYB/PK/Ozified kit doen'st move the rear wheel forward almost at all, because the rear trailing arm mounts are dropped. newer ones do utilize a bit more axle angle, but still drop it. the AA and SJR kits leave that mount up against the body (still could easily be done with a BYB kit, but it's not described in the instructions) which causes the trailing arm the pull the back wheel forward, but because the pivot is in the front, it can't get any closer. This sounds like a huge disadvantage to not drop them, but it leaves that same bracket, and the fuel pump (which is also attached there) VERY vulnerable. and contrary to popular belief (all of which generated by those with no experience with the design), suspension travel is NOT limited by that design. as for axle angles. the AA design is safe, but at the limit. I ran the 4" kit (not the 4/3, which leaves even more room for error by only lifting the rear 3") for awhile with it adjusted up another inch, and ate through 2 axles in the same weekend. but after dropping it back down to just 4" I have had zero problems, front or rear. and just to be safe, I added a 2" SJR diff shim for the front of the diff, so I can adjust the rear end up another inch, or even add accord springs (which I won't do, because those DO limit travel). if you'd like to search, in my photo gallery on this site (click photos at the top of the page, and then I should be 4th on the top poster list), I've got a pic of my rear wheel, with a big red dot where the trailing arm pivot is, and you can see that the hub cannot get any closer to that point, and therefore clearance there is not an issue. does that answer your question??