Numbchux

yep, GD is right....once you get used to it, it's much easier to do them both at once. but I know that if I had tried it that way the first time I did my own timing belts, I wouldn't have got it on the first try (but I did!). I'd recommend doing it the 'right' way a couple times before doing it all at once. it's easier to spend a little extra time doing it the first time, than doing a sloppy job the first time, and having to do it again....'measure twice, cut once' as they say

you set the driver side one straight up, align the flywheel marks, install and tighten that side belt. rotate the crank one full turn back to the flywheel marks (driver side cam mark should be pointing straight down), then put the passenger side cam mark straight up, and install it's belt. that should get you on the road

I guess I'll check that. the timing belts were done only a few thousand miles ago, and I didn't touch them when I swapped the motor over. UPDATE: the timing belts are fine. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body....and got nothing. I added a couple grounds in a couple places under the hood. made sure all my solders for crank and cam sensors had held, and weren't shorting to any adjacent wires. I'm going to have dinner, and then pull a fuel rail and see if the injectors are getting signal... truth be told, I haven't figured out how to pull codes on these

I thought I'd post a new thread, so those of you who actually might help don't have to sort through the play-by-play of my weekend in the garage, and I'd just give the cliff notes. anyway, I need this car running this week. school starts a week from today, and I need to have this car then. SOOO I'm getting desperate. here's the story: I have: Spark (which means ECU is getting signals from most, if not all sensors) Compression Fuel pressure to/through the rails but no combustion I've checked: power/grounds to ECU (tomorrow will double check, probably will add a couple more ground wires to the body too....) continuity between the ECU and TPS, knock sensor and all 4 injectors fuel lines are hooked up correctly to the rails for clogs in the rails (I removed the pressure regulator, put a bucket under it, and turned the ignition on, and fuel came out...) plugged the ECU into our '94 legacy, and it works fine I'm also assuming that all the sensors etc. on the engine work fine, since this engine ran awesome in the donor car before it was pulled. and it wasn't transported at all, just lifted out, it hung on the hoist for a few hours while I redrilled the flywheel, then I dropped it in the loyale. I did just realize that I never installed the O2 sensor....it's plugged in, but just sitting in the spare tire well (wires will need to be lengthened, and I forgot). would this cause my lack of fuel? I figured a bad signal is better than no signal at all, and it should at least squirt in a little fuel, but it's not firing at all....nothin... please, any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I've heard them just say MY__ and put the model year after that.....like MY01 or MY98....I've always just assumed it stood for 'model year'

I'm assuming that the injectors aren't getting a signal. but if my cam/crank angle sensors weren't hooked up, wouldn't I NOT get spark?? EDIT: just plugged the ECU into our '94 legacy, works fine. and I pulled the pressure regulator off, and there is fuel running all the way through the rails. so it has to be the injectors. I'm having trouble beleiving that all 4 signal wires from the ECU to the injectors are getting bad signal, but I'll rig something up to test that today. is there a sensor (i.e. crank angle etc.) that JUST controls fuel? and wouldn't effect the spark? EDIT 2: I just checked, and I have good continuity between all 4 injectors, the TPS, and the knock sensor and the ECU...

I wouldn't think so...this engine ran AWESOME when we pulled it out of the donor car 4 feet from where it sits now...

MNOHV.org (which was started by our own MorganM) is hosting a peaceful rally at the MN state capitol this fall. Anyone who can attend I highly recommend it... Date: October 21, 2006 (Saturday) Time: 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM (noon) Location: Minnesota State Capitol: South Mall near Aurora Ave. more info: http://www.mnohv.org/events/savethetrails.php and http://www.mn-jeep.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8126 (you may need to be a member, but the MN Jeep club is the center of most of the positive, legal offroading here in MN) The Chuxwagon may be making an appearance at the rally as an example of a safe, legal ORV. mods....a sticky would be highly appreciated!

probably, it was built by/for Ratty2Austin in Washington, then he sold it a couple years ago to NoahDL88 in Michigan. Noah has since sold it and moved back out to Washington.... it was one of the first in the country to do an EJ22 swap into an older style subaru. I pioneer of sorts...

yep, I doubt anyones going to be in the shop until monday anyway, even if it weren't for the show. and I'm pretty sure you'd be the first to get an EJ lift, so I doubt anyone's got a manual for it, are you sure it's the right lift, and just the wrong manual?

never heard it called the MY...just gen 2s/EA81s....maybe you guys refer to them differently down there. don't forget hatches, they were all EA81s just like the brat

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/bratguy-decals.html quick search for "subaru font" turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/soobfonts/soobfonts.html

hella optilux has a basic combination driving/fog lights (2 bulbs, 2 diffusers, one case!) that's pretty cheap considering it's 2 pairs of lights, and all required wiring! I got mine from JCWhitney: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003770/p-2003770/N-111+10201+600002818/c-10101 heres how they were on my '85 (even though that bumper/grill is now on my loyale): and, you can easily get 2 radioshack rocker switches, and wire each pair of lights to it's own circuit, which also allows you to turn on both pairs at once! that's 4 55w bulbs in those 2 little packages!

very common. check the retrofitting section. I beleive you've got the 4-speed, which isn't so tough, but the 5-speed.....is btw....legacies didn't come with a turbo 2.0. just imprezas/WRXs, legacies had 2.2 or 2.5

ok.....so I'm a spaz.....I had the diode on backwards...so I've got spark now... but it still won't fire. I've got the fuel pump relay completely rewired, not running off the ECU. would this cause the ECU to think that the pump was not hooked up? and therefore not tell the injectors to fire? EDIT: nevermind, just wired the relay correctly....still no go. so I've got: compression Spark Fuel pressure (to the fuel rails) but no combustion....oh yea....I've also got confusion

thanks for the link, and now that I look at it, I've read it before. anyway, XSNRG ground on the holder to make it clear, but I don't think it's quite that close. I'm afraid that in order to grind enough off, I'll grind it right through good to know he did it with a 4-lug car though! and yes, all the conversion parts where pulled from a MN junkyard, and the trailing arms and such were from my '85, which was an iowa car.....just a little rust there

yea, I've seen the FSM from a couple different sources, and the diagram appears to be identical to the one in my chiltons manual. so I hooked it up that way. anyway, I just went out and tested it on my dad's '94....and the green wire has power all the time, and the yellow is IGN +.....which makes no sense, because the green wire is the one that switches the IGN relay..so if there's power there all the time, how is the relay not tripped all the time :confused: GAAAHH, I know it's only been a little while since I origionally posted this, and most of the people who know are at WCSS....but PLEASE HELP ME :( :o (we need a crying smiley)

that does help....actually. I never even noticed that there is a switch on my multimeter just for the diode :-p ok, how about another question....which way is it supposed to go?? is it supposed to allow power to the ECU? or from it? my haynes and chiltons manuals don't agree. Also, the yellow wire feeding power to the non-ECU side of it, that's supposed to be IGN + right? Yea, I'm not sure how or when it happened, but my diode was removed (for the record, my dad did virtually all the interior stuff when we stripped the donor legacy :-\ ). so I've got to rewire it. I thought I had it right...but now I'm thinking otherwise

still...without a caliper, you should be able to put the wheel on, and set the car down. or are you talking about the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor?

ok, I finally got some time to put into my EJ22 swap project again. but I still can't get it to start. I've got no spark. I've got power to everywhere where the should be power at the ECU. I've got grounds everywhere there should be grounds. I've got power to the yellow wire on the coil pack. I tested all the sensor connections when I had the harness out this week. checked for continuity between the ECU connector and the sensor connector. so I've got a good connection from the ECU to the Crank and CAm angle sensor. knock sensor, ignitor, injectors, etc. the only thing I'm not sure about, is that diode. I've got power to the one side, but I'm not sure if it's working right, how can I test it at the ECU connector? I tried hooking my test light up to it and a ground, and got nothing.... any other ideas? how can I test the crank/cam angle sensors? they were good when I pulled the motor, but I might as well test them too.... btw, this is a '92 legacy EJ22

put the wheel on, put the car on the ground. you should be able to get at it without the center cap on your wheel otherwise...handbrake? or have someone (or a conveniently sized stick) hold the brake pedal down...

I beleive these calipers where off of an '87 Nissan 200SX. here are an EA82t rear caliper and a 200SX caliper side-by-side. you can see that they're very similar, with the exception of the ebrake bracket/lever: the difficulty comes with the mounting bracket. the holes are a bit further apart on the 200SX mounting bracket, so the brackets must be switched, this walk-through will show how to do that: what you'll need: 14mm socket/ratchet (impact works best) 10mm wrench (preferrably brake line wrench) Allen key for EA82 caliper (not sure on size...anyone?) possibly a vice-grips 2 EA82t rear calipers 2 200SX rear calipers if you're doing the rear disc conversion at the same time, you'll need more tools and parts for that, see other write-up for that list. first off, remove your existing calipers (not necessary if you're doing a rear disc conversion now) remove both brackets from both calipers from the same side: now you'll need to switch the pins that the caliper bolts to, and that allow them to slide on the bracket, since the face where it mates up to the caliper is different: 200SX on left, EA82t on right Grease the ends of the 200SX pins and slide them into the EA82 caliper bracket, making sure the boots are seated firmly so they will not let in water, or let the grease out. now, bolt the bracket to the backing plate (remember, the brake rotor must be installed now): For those running a 4-lug setup, something will need to be done about the ebrake cable bracket, otherwise it will hit the trailing arm: simply bending it may be a solution before you go any further, make sure the rotor spins freely. now, install your pads (need to be EA82t ones, and you might as well put in new ones) if there's more pad left on the EA82t pads than there were on the 200SX ones, you'll need to turn the piston into the caliper. a special tool is available for this, but if you've got the caliper out, a channel-lock plyers or pipe wrench can be carefully used from the side to turn it. now, bolt the caliper to the bracket and connect the brake lines: bleed the system hook up your handbrake cable (lots of ways for the cables, it's been said that you can just reroute the stock cables towards the back, and that'll work. or you can replace the handle and cables with something that's already rear ebrake, so the lines are the right direction. I'm using a legacy handle/cables, and I've seen a honda accord set used aswell.) repeat for the other side.

yep, I should've mentioned that. I've not known anyone to have the same kind of problem with the EA81 kit. however, I've looked a bunch at EA81 suspension, and from what I can tell, and from pictures I've seen. that same spot would need to be dropped in order for the suspension to work without reclocking the torsion bar, which both AA and SJR require. and, I just noticed you have an 84 wagon, I don't know why I was thinking it was an EA82

I appreciate the link, but that doesn't really help me, since I've already got nissan 200SX rear calipers on the car. and will be using legacy handle/cables. here's what I'm talking about. in this picture, the top bolt on the caliper bracket is in, so you can see the bracket for the cable hitting the trailing arm (circled in red). and you can also see how close that second bolt is. I suspect the bigger backing plate from the XT6 would keep that far enough away that it wouldn't matter, which is why I think it'd be ok for those swapped to 5-lug, but 4-lug stuff is just a bit too small. I'm going to try to just bend the bracket, since the cables will need some serious adjustment to get them to work right anyway...

I'm sure this thread will be locked, as it's been discussed. but I'll respond anyway.... AA doesn't make lifts anymore (or not for a competetive price....they might make you one for 700 though) http://www.SJRLift.com makes kits very similar to the AA design there are lots of Die-Hard BYB fans here. it's definately tried and true! as someone who has owned, and wheeled an AA lifted wagon, and BYB lifted one. I will say that I won't be paying money for a BYB kit. no offense to PK, they're very well built, and solid. but those rear trailing arm blocks are far too vulnerable. those need to be tucked up tight against the body, it's just not a very good design. There are those who will say that it sacrifices articulation, but I tested them back-to-back, and the differences are negligable, if any, and well worth the sacrifice!! I won't argue this on the public forum, it's turned into a shouting match too many times. But like I say, I have owned, and wheeled each lift, and would be more than happy to give you some info on it. feel free to send me a message!