Numbchux

I don't mean to hijack too much. but I'll tell you the lift blocks in my (used to be MorganM's) 3" BYB lifted EA82 wagon look horrible. most of them are pretty badly bashed in, and all the mounts on the body are tweaked. and yes, I destroyed a stock skidplate with the BYB block on the front. it did slow the car down enough that it didn't damage anything else. but it won't be doing it ever again. Uberoo's right, with or without the experience, the stock skidplate mounts are worthless, with or without the BYB block back on topic though....it looks awesome! now get out there and finish it so we can see some daylight pics of it!!

thanks! however, I found the hidden hitch instructions on the website, and went out and looked at it, to find out my dad had been wrong...it's a 'rigid hitch' but I suspect it attaches in a similar way

have any of you guys tried calling them? that's the best way to get ahold of them, usually in the morning around 10 is your best bet of getting ahold of them. None of them are online, because they are busy making your lifts. if it's anything like the last group buy, it'll be a while. blindsight...you might want to track down some tires. if for no other reason than to prevent murphy's law from ensuring that the lift arrives right after you'r left stranded somewhere because you got another flat tire, and are out of spares...

We just bought a hidden hitch used from a '92 legacy wagon, assuming it would work on our '94...there are no instructions with it, and we can't figure out how it attaches. anyone have a pic of it, or know for sure that the '94 wagon is different from a '92?

head gaskets....not a terribly difficult project, not terribly expensive either.

wow...sweet! how well does it work?

^^ NICE!! my 4" AA kit has 4" strut, and 3" engine and tranny.... my 3" BYB EA82 kit (first one in the US), has 3" strut, and 2" engine and tranny...

yes, a 1" difference is not very much. that's how ALL three lift companies make their lifts.

yep, that's pretty much the only way to do it

the cam timing could be set wrong. specifically on the drivers side (drives the distributer). pull the timing belt covers off (if you haven't already), there's a little mark on either of the cam sprockets, they should be 180 degress offset from one another. if the driver's side one is set 180 degress from where it should be (i.e. the same direction as the passenger) it will spark on the wrong stroke....could result in the symptoms you describe...

ancient, huge CRT here.....definately green. but GD did say BRIGHT green....it looks more like a forest green.... nonetheless.... :headbang:

2 words......pitch stopper.....what are you guys doing for this. I didn't even think of it, but when I got everything dropped in there, I realized on EJ cars, it's attached to the tranny, and EA cars, it's attached to the engine. well, I'm using neither of these. can I get by without using one?

Yep, something to watch out for. our local junkyard lists the cars when they come in on their website. so I can watch, and get it all from the same car, without it getting manhandled first.

what do you mean? I like the fish tank pump!

bump since the un-sticky-ing.... and, I just finished editing the video from the weekend....a full 40-minutes worth. so I'm going to edit the stuff we took on May 20 together, and should be able to put out a full hour and 15 minute (or so...) DVD. coming to a mailbox near you (hopefully). I'm thinking I might do a limited run now, and then make them available for a donation for next years event. maybe with anything else we take this year.

but I want the air flowing through the hose INTO the distributer. if you just hook it up to your intake, when the disty is under water, it'll just suck it up. if it worked, the fumes from inside the cap would be pushed out the bottom of the distributer. yea, I remember the rubber glove trick, or the toyota distributer protector, but both seal it off completely. I was just thinking some force air flow would be much more effective...

5

this last weekend at the crawl 4 the cure (see the thread "Support a great cause!" for the aftermath there), I was playing in some pretty deep...pretty nasty mud/water. and got my distributer wet. well, I remembered seeing on a can of PB blaster that you could spray it in a disty to get a wet motor to start. so when my car started coughing from the water, I got my can of WD40 (didn't have any PB with me) and looked, and it said it would clean electrical contacts. so I went to pull the distributer cap to spray it in there, when I realized, there's a little vent on the top of the cap, with a rubber cap over it. I pulled the cap off, and the hole is just a bit bigger than the WD40 straw. so I sprayed some in there with the engine running, and it helped a ton!! sooo, I got to thinking, there are little vents at the base of the distributer too, if you sealed off the gasket between the cap and the base of the distributer, hooked a little vacuum hose to the vent on the top of the cap, and hooked it to a little pump of some sort in the cab, it would keep virtually all the water out, but the circulation would prevent condensation from becoming a problem aswell... what do y'all think? any ideas on what to use to force some air down that little hole?

Well, this can be unstickied now...thanks! also, if a mod would add "the aftermath" or something to the title, since the event happened already...that'd be great (origional post is too old, I can't edit it) anyway...we went, and had an awesome time. KickAsssFlash brought his YJ, I brought the Poopenvagen, and MorganM brought the Kia (unfortunately, he was having severe problems with the carb on his samurai, and didn't have legal tow points on the bumpers, so he ended up hitching rides throughout the park). one of the guys' wife sewed the letters MS Crawl 4 the Cure on his spare tire carrier on his YJ....WAY cool: KAF's YJ did really awesome, the stuff we took of it on the same trails as me just look boring, so here's a couple more extreme ones. this trail's called pucker point, I tried it...and spent so much time teetering on 2 wheels, that I ended up getting dragged through most of it: The Gorge Rock crawl, Morgan took the poopenvagon through the first part of this last year, but I didn't dare do it again this year, with all the rust that has formed on it since then: and then some playing in the water: all in all, we had a blast, taking the doors off was the best idea I've ever had!!! WOW, totally worth getting soaked with iron ore water, SOOO much easier to see when on the rocks. unfortunately, we had a smaller turnout this year....not sure why, hopefully it doesn't turn into a trend. but nonetheless, we'd raised just shy of $20k BEFORE the auction sunday night. so we'll probably be similar to last years 21. also, we got a ton of video, so hopefully there will be a DVD of KAF and I at the last 2 events up there. damage: mangled passenger side control arm/radius rod mangled driver side radius rod mount ripped 2 skidplate bolts out of the radiator support, and sheered off a 3rd before removing the fourth (bigger, custom plate, not the stock one.) knocked the cat-back off, once each day flat tire, turned out to just be crap in the valve, still holding bent center driveshaft carrier tweaked rear crossmember lift blocks

zap....wouldn't he want less backspacing, and more offset? to get the tires out away from the strut... also, I happen to remember that the latest tires on Austin's imp were the same as mine... 215/75r15, calculate to 27.7". He's using Forester 15" steelies, maybe the offset/backspacing is different than whatever you might be using.

blizzak revo's AMAZING!! I rode in a GC8 STi swap at our MNSubaru annual ice race event, and holy crap did they grip!! I have a set of Cooper Weather Master S/T2 snow tires, I think they're 155/80R13s. very impressive grip, fits nicely on the stock 13" wheel. I was catching up to a turbo RS in my lifted wagon at the ice race (until the engine seized :-\ ) you don't need to get non-DOT stuff to get real good snow tires!

sorry, my last post sounded kinda mean. I simply meant that most of the people who frequent this forum are about rock crawling or mud boggin...and probably won't know. http://www.nasioc.com it's just another forum, with way more members, and all newer gen (better chances of them having experience in this sort of thing) I can't help you specifically with a local rally group, but I do know that the minnesota one has a forum, also alot like this one. I do also know that most local rally guys run BFG Mud Terrains

I think gary's right also....I do know that it's a 14mm head. and only 1.5-2" long.

yea, that's essentially how a body lift does it, just much less effectively. and still doesn't solve the problem. the lower spring perch is just as close to the hub as before. not sure what you mean by extending the distance between chassis and suspension....sounds like a suspension lift. which is what king springs on outback struts does. but only to a point. and still doesn't solve the lower spring perch problem.

don't get me wrong here, it sounds like an awesome project, but not for the offroad forum....you'd probably get a much more effective answer on nasioc or your local rally club.