Numbchux

yes, but on an EJ car, it would be pointless, because the spring perch doesn't get any further away from the hub, which on an EJ car, is the biggest limitation on tire size.

I have some disty's too if you'd like (I'm looking to get rid of some parts)

OK, little bump, and some new info after some testing today, we know I have fuel. I have power to the yellow wire to the coil pack, but nothing else. (ther other 2 are supposed to be momentary ground....right?). we traced those back to the igniter, which has a big black wire that goes to a ground. this is not grounded. but we can't find, anywhere, where this big grounding block is. on this diagram: http://www.subarutex.com/92%20Legacy%20Engine%20Wiring.pdf it's one of the 2 grounds in the upper right corner of page 3. I'm going to tap a known good ground into that wire under the dash (I found where it comes out of the ECU...), and see if that helps me.

I have a video capture card, and lots of editing software. I was thinking of putting your subaru vids that I have on DVD so I can watch them at my house, and not just at my parents'

ok, I finally had time to check this out. it's identical to the one I have in my chilton's manual. What exactly does that diode do? I have power to all the yellow wire on the coil, which also powers the diode, but nothing on the green wire on the other side of it. I should have ground to the black wire, but didn't. I have power to both the yellow wires on the ignition relay. and now that I look at the diagram for the fuel pump relay, it makes no sense again.....so, I'll have to look at that all again.

want some help loading everything up?

I have the version with ken eric and rob in it. and I'm pretty sure I've seen that one.....makes me want to go there.

I've got a bunch, and in a couple weeks, I won't have any more EA-powered soobs if you want 'em, they're yours

yes, it's been done, quite frequently. gas tanks are different on EA81s. you'll also need to drill and tap mounts for your rear diff hanger but, other than that, it's direct bolt-up.

here's the FAQ he was talking about. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24980 and the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 look through those, and you'll get all sorts of info!

even I would probably be in for an RX body kit, depending, of course, on pricing and timing....

Numbchux (at) Gmail.com and I'll save that one from you tex, thanks guys! I'll have a look at it this afternoon, and maybe I'll understand it better.....

yep, BYB=Ozified=PK Davis....

I'm fairly certain the crank and cam sensors isn't the problem, I was pretty careful to not mess with the sheilded part. I did remove the three plugs from the bellhousing, and they were still 8 or 10" to short. I was looking at the motor in crappy light one night after removing the wiring from the donor car, and thought the 2 plugs were the same, so I panicked, then realized that they're different colors, so I was extra careful to keep them seperate. my understanding of the main relay, is the solid yellow wires have power all the time, the black is always grounded, and the ecu sends power through the green one, which activates the relay, allowing power through to the 2 yellow wires with a red stripe. the solid yellow ones have power all the time IIRC. anyway, regardless, I've whatever is supposed to be sending power to that relay...isn't....so I beleive that's my problem. and yes, corky, I knew from the beginning the wiring would be the hard part, but I figured I could get basic function (i.e. the $#$%$%ing motor to run) easier, and that my only real problem was getting the little accessories to work...

I have 30s on a car with 3" of lift. a buddy of mine has 29s on an unlifted hatch, simply adjusted the suspension up all the way and cut the crap out of the fenders. they're all body lifts, and they're all virtually identical (for EA81s anyway), buy what's the cheapest and fastest. SJR requires new/longer rear shocks, but that allows more travel, also doesn't come with the lengthened steering shaft, or pitch stopper, both will be necessary. I don't think BYB has the pitch stopper either...but they have a block for the front of the skidplate so you can still use it. but it's been proven insufficient if you're really wheeling hard. anything above 30s or so will be very hard to fit because of the firewall. but anything up to that will be quite easy with any amount of lift, especially if you're willing to trim the corners off the fenders. yes, do the rear disc conversion. it's a HUGE improvement, if you're serious at all about wheeling it, you'll love the extra power and control with 4-wheel disc brakes. have you read the Frequently Asked Questions page? lots of good info there

sounds good. I still have to take the x-member stuff off, but I'll be doing it within the next week. I'll shoot you a pm when I've got everything together.

you can have what comes off easily. I forget if they're 2" or 3. remember, I have both lifts, and I'm converting the other way I may have an extra set of 3" upper shock drop plates like the ones BYB uses, you could use those instead, that way you could keep your accord springs, but ease your axles a bit. and use bigger tires to get the rest of your car up off the ground

yep, I got this much figured out....I think the fuel pump relay already has a ground, it needs power to the green wire doesn't it?? I got it to click by wiring it this way...

who says you need more lift to get bigger tires? my black wagon has a 3" BYB lift with stock springs and non-adjustables with 29s. I say remove the accord springs, and do some fender trimming, then run big enough tires to get the ride height you want. otherwise, I'm thinking of removing those same blocks from said black wagon for the crawl 4 the cure next weekend. if I do, you can have them and the bolts for shipping (assuming they're not totally trashed....which they might be)

ugh....I'm getting very tired of this, I'll probably cough up the cash to have Shawn make me a harness when I do this swap in my lifted wagon.... mechanically, the swap is virtually done. engine's in, linkage is done, rear end is in, still waiting on rear brakes and front axles from tcat. haven't done the radiator yet, but I figure it won't need one until it runs anyway, in the meantime, it just leaves me more space to work. I'm not a total electrical idiot, but some of this stuff just leaves me stumped. anyway, I'm not getting spark. I've read Tex's thread about the same problem, but I think it's different. I'm not getting any spark, ever. neither of the ignition or fuel relays are getting power through the harness, and the ignition one isn't getting a ground. I ran a few wires just to get them to come on, and it still doens't work. so I have a feeling it's a deeper issue. This motor worked perfectly in the donor car, and was not dissasembled in any way. the entire engine harness etc. was left on the engine, and unplugged from the body during the swap. the only underhood wiring I've touched to the engine is the crank/cam angle, and knock sensor wires, to lengthen them. but I'm quite certain they all have good connections. everything on the harness seems to be grounded sufficiently, I tapped into the ground wire just to test it, and have been using it to test other circuits all day, with no problems, so I doubt that's the problem. what else could it be? I don't have easy access to a FSM, I've just been going off the chiltons/haynes diagrams, and some that my buddy printed off of the system at the garage that he works at. but I still can't figure it out... also, those that did it, how did you do the oil pressure gauge? the EJ motor just has the idiot light, but I'd kinda like the gauge to work, will an aftermarket sender fit under the alt? or should I just wire a little light to it, and if the light comes on....get worried.... there's probably more I'm forgetting, but that should do for now.

FWD imprezas don't have rear axles hatch monster's got it all right for the spline counts you can use your A/C compressor for on board air, for refilling your tires after airing them down, for air tools, etc. but nobody makes an air locker for a subaru.

archemitis has one on his hatch. pretty sure it was a generic, plastic or fiberglass one out of a catalog, but he did cut the hood out from underneath it. and he had origionally thought about doing sort of a shaker idea with the H6 emblem on the intake manifold of the ER27 sticking up out of the hood

Sweet! thanks!!

that would be cool.....but I still say hi comp EJ25

the High Clearance AA lift is fine on axles, as long as you don't try to get any more lift out of them. I had a few troubles when I had my struts adjusted up ~1"