Numbchux

Mattracks is based out of northern MN. I've seen many vehicles with those equipped on them running offroad. They actually have a pretty serious 'gear' reduction to them. That's why they don't do so hot in mud, they need to be moving faster than that, they also don't exactly have an MT design to them. And because of their upper size, they can have the effect of big tires, without needing the fender clearance. these would actually be perfect for a trail-only subaru. but because they're not streetable, and they don't make them for a subaru, they just don't make sense. GD....I'm interested in where you got your info....sounds like you know what you're talking about, but it completely contradicts what I've seen and heard

[quote name='SOOBOUTLAW']They have to catch me first...[/QUOTE] and when they do (notice.... 'when' not 'if'), they'll give you a felony, and take away your car. wrong answer

I'm wheeling on a set of wal-terrains on morgan's old wagon. they've got lots of miles, and still do pretty well on dry stuff. I air them down to 15-20psi and wheel 'em on the rocks for hours. mud.......not so much, they cake up and turn into slicks real fast.

Yea, my dad and I pulled the EA82 out of my blue wagon by hand. but it was way harder, and we didn't want to disconnect the tranny from this one. I've even got an extra crossmember, so I don't think I've even going to mess with this one. we dropped the whole assembly as one, and will probably just use the comealong to drag it up onto the trailer, and take it away. no further disassembly required. I did it this way on my '85 when we parted it out. except we didn't have a rear end in it, it was already sitting on tires in the middle. when we unbolted the engine, the center of gravity moved behind the tires, and we didn't even have to lift, the body just teetered towards the back and up off the motor. but yea, this one's not getting parted out, notice it's location in the garage, not in the yard like it's been for the last couple years.

Making lots of progress on my loyale these last few days but had to get rid of that EA82 and 3AT FWD tranny..... 1: remove front suspension 2: disconnect all electrical, vacuum, and other lines from the engine and tranny 3: remove tranny xmember bolts 4: lower to ground 5: remove engine xmember nuts and pitch stopper 6: raise body above engine haha, worked like a charm! anyway, swapped the 4WD rear end in, well, just the trailing arm assembly. Did you know the 4WD strut mounts are about an inch higher than the FWD ones? when we swapped it over (leaving the FWD struts on it) it sat quite a bit higher. but here's a pic with the FWD rear end in it, an extra engine and tranny sitting in the back. this is about how it's going to sit when it's all done:

who did you ask? if it wasn't here, it was because people don't understand subarus. if it was, it's because of the DR tranny. the stock motor doesn't have enough torque to do anything much with big tires on it without the lo range. EDIT: I just noticed the post to which y ou were probably refferring...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56877 no offense to most of the posters in that thread, but they didn't offer anything correct, or helpful. you're loyale, with a DR swap, will be just a capable as a GL.

the GL will (most likely) have a dual range tranny, instead of the loyale's single range. not to mention map lights, a rear cargo light, and a bunch of other options. they're virtually the same, but where they're different, the GL is way better.

a buddy of mine has 29x8.5x15 TSLs on his EA81 hatch. he did a ton of trimming, and has the adjustable shocks/torsion bar cranked up. He still ended up taking the front fenders off, and I guess they rub a bunch in the back. but he's going to be adding EA82 rear struts to lift it up a bit in the rear, until AA get's the Group Buy going. it could be done, but your rear tires would get eaten... and Ryanb....I beleive he's done a 6-lug conversion

I thought I'd reiterate this little point...The rear wheel is brought forward (though it doesn't look like it does on EA81s as much as EA82s, just from petes pics), but the trailing arm pivots right there, so it can't get any closer. there is no need for any more clearance there to allow for articulation.

it doesn't fit all the symptoms.....but clogged exhaust?

oh man!! I've never had that much fun wheeling!! it was just me, and KickAssFlash in his jeep. butwe got tons of video, so when I get it on my computer, it will be available.

4.44s or even 4.56s for an EA82 5MT D/R tranny that's pretty much it....for me anyway. I don't want to open the 'more articulation' can of worms.

agreed, I've had a few that had been stored for a while (and mine, when the crank angle sensor went out and I couldn't figure it out, lots of cold cranking in cold weather with no spark....), an oil change and a little MMO (marvel mystery oil) couldn't hurt. What I do, is make sure the oil is good, and the pressure is good, then start it, and leave it alone for awhile. I bet you it will go away after awhile.

yes I do, and wouldn't consider anything else for an EA82. with the addition of an SJR 2" diff shim, you can easily run it adjusted for 5" and not worry about the rear axles. cutting and fabbing? just cutting the rear bump stops right? or am I forgetting something.

one last try. We're leaving the twin cities around 10am for my place in Duluth. we'll be spending the night there, then heading up to gilbert ealy saturday.

what? maybe a fullsize, but they're so long, they'll still get high-centered faster. it's awefully hard to get any clearance at the center with a divorced tcase. my exhaust hangs down pretty low, and I still have more clearance in the middle than my buddies wrangler on 35s.

that's at MOAB. so I probably won't/haven't been the first, but someday, I'll do it. They make a run out there every year.

that's the one!

I stopped by on my way into town the other day, and it turned out he had the cam timing all wrong....hehe. took me about 5 minutes to fix it. now it runs pretty well, it's got a monster vacuum leak (runs better if you cover the intake hole with your hand), so we're still converting it. we just got a fuel pump that looked quite new off an '88 t-wagon in the local junkyard. as well as the rear discs. we'll have this thing up a running sweet in no time. now if AA would get ther butt in gear and get that group buy started, we could get it lifted too......

another vote for disconnecting the control arm from the endlink and crossmember over ball joint. I, too, have done it both ways, and the ball joint way is a huge PITA by comparison.

I took my timing belt covers off, and have never looked back! and I've had my motor running underwater, a number of times. It may take a little life off them and the tensioners/idlers, but it makes the replacement process a 20 minute job, instead of an hour. I've done a couple sets on the side of the road, and it's hardly even an incedent, if I had to fight with the covers, I would've called someone, canceled whatever I was going to, gotten a tow (hopefully I'm close to home so a tow rope could be used), and set some serious time aside for the repair. just make sure you've got the knowhow, tools, and parts to do it if it does break, and you'll be set. and it's actually the other way around, the cams spin at half the speed of the crank. and the oil pump (as already said) spins at the same speed as the crank. I resealed an oil pump with 230k miles on it (probably origional seals too), and it worked as good as new. the seals were less than $10 too, even from a dealer.

+75

yep, KickAssFlash and I were talking yesterday about that, he's still got a bunch of herculiner roll-on bedliner left over from when he did the interior of his jeep. we'll probably do it to our wagons (his purely for the protection, since it's already black).

do a search, McBrat has a neat graphic of where you can grind on the lift block to push it inward a bit. but it's just the inside edge, you need to find a way to move it in towards that center more. be creative, the only realistic way to do it is to move the strut tops inward (theoretically, you could move the steering knuckles out, but that would require custom control arms, and therefore custom axles, and it would screw with your toe......yikes). Just look at how it all goes together, and see how you could make it better, keeping in mind that you don't want to change the shape of the strut towers too much, since they are a pretty serious structural part of the car. you can definately do a little pounding, but just keep that in mind.

oh yea, under the hood would be a good option as long as water isn't a concern. my rig is an offroad one, so I needed to find something high and dry that would be safe from the iron-ore-filled mud up here in northern MN.