Numbchux

zap....wouldn't he want less backspacing, and more offset? to get the tires out away from the strut... also, I happen to remember that the latest tires on Austin's imp were the same as mine... 215/75r15, calculate to 27.7". He's using Forester 15" steelies, maybe the offset/backspacing is different than whatever you might be using.

blizzak revo's AMAZING!! I rode in a GC8 STi swap at our MNSubaru annual ice race event, and holy crap did they grip!! I have a set of Cooper Weather Master S/T2 snow tires, I think they're 155/80R13s. very impressive grip, fits nicely on the stock 13" wheel. I was catching up to a turbo RS in my lifted wagon at the ice race (until the engine seized :-\ ) you don't need to get non-DOT stuff to get real good snow tires!

sorry, my last post sounded kinda mean. I simply meant that most of the people who frequent this forum are about rock crawling or mud boggin...and probably won't know. http://www.nasioc.com it's just another forum, with way more members, and all newer gen (better chances of them having experience in this sort of thing) I can't help you specifically with a local rally group, but I do know that the minnesota one has a forum, also alot like this one. I do also know that most local rally guys run BFG Mud Terrains

I think gary's right also....I do know that it's a 14mm head. and only 1.5-2" long.

yea, that's essentially how a body lift does it, just much less effectively. and still doesn't solve the problem. the lower spring perch is just as close to the hub as before. not sure what you mean by extending the distance between chassis and suspension....sounds like a suspension lift. which is what king springs on outback struts does. but only to a point. and still doesn't solve the lower spring perch problem.

don't get me wrong here, it sounds like an awesome project, but not for the offroad forum....you'd probably get a much more effective answer on nasioc or your local rally club.

yes, but on an EJ car, it would be pointless, because the spring perch doesn't get any further away from the hub, which on an EJ car, is the biggest limitation on tire size.

I have some disty's too if you'd like (I'm looking to get rid of some parts)

OK, little bump, and some new info after some testing today, we know I have fuel. I have power to the yellow wire to the coil pack, but nothing else. (ther other 2 are supposed to be momentary ground....right?). we traced those back to the igniter, which has a big black wire that goes to a ground. this is not grounded. but we can't find, anywhere, where this big grounding block is. on this diagram: http://www.subarutex.com/92%20Legacy%20Engine%20Wiring.pdf it's one of the 2 grounds in the upper right corner of page 3. I'm going to tap a known good ground into that wire under the dash (I found where it comes out of the ECU...), and see if that helps me.

I have a video capture card, and lots of editing software. I was thinking of putting your subaru vids that I have on DVD so I can watch them at my house, and not just at my parents'

ok, I finally had time to check this out. it's identical to the one I have in my chilton's manual. What exactly does that diode do? I have power to all the yellow wire on the coil, which also powers the diode, but nothing on the green wire on the other side of it. I should have ground to the black wire, but didn't. I have power to both the yellow wires on the ignition relay. and now that I look at the diagram for the fuel pump relay, it makes no sense again.....so, I'll have to look at that all again.

want some help loading everything up?

I have the version with ken eric and rob in it. and I'm pretty sure I've seen that one.....makes me want to go there.

I've got a bunch, and in a couple weeks, I won't have any more EA-powered soobs if you want 'em, they're yours

yes, it's been done, quite frequently. gas tanks are different on EA81s. you'll also need to drill and tap mounts for your rear diff hanger but, other than that, it's direct bolt-up.

here's the FAQ he was talking about. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24980 and the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 look through those, and you'll get all sorts of info!

even I would probably be in for an RX body kit, depending, of course, on pricing and timing....

Numbchux (at) Gmail.com and I'll save that one from you tex, thanks guys! I'll have a look at it this afternoon, and maybe I'll understand it better.....

yep, BYB=Ozified=PK Davis....

I'm fairly certain the crank and cam sensors isn't the problem, I was pretty careful to not mess with the sheilded part. I did remove the three plugs from the bellhousing, and they were still 8 or 10" to short. I was looking at the motor in crappy light one night after removing the wiring from the donor car, and thought the 2 plugs were the same, so I panicked, then realized that they're different colors, so I was extra careful to keep them seperate. my understanding of the main relay, is the solid yellow wires have power all the time, the black is always grounded, and the ecu sends power through the green one, which activates the relay, allowing power through to the 2 yellow wires with a red stripe. the solid yellow ones have power all the time IIRC. anyway, regardless, I've whatever is supposed to be sending power to that relay...isn't....so I beleive that's my problem. and yes, corky, I knew from the beginning the wiring would be the hard part, but I figured I could get basic function (i.e. the $#$%$%ing motor to run) easier, and that my only real problem was getting the little accessories to work...

I have 30s on a car with 3" of lift. a buddy of mine has 29s on an unlifted hatch, simply adjusted the suspension up all the way and cut the crap out of the fenders. they're all body lifts, and they're all virtually identical (for EA81s anyway), buy what's the cheapest and fastest. SJR requires new/longer rear shocks, but that allows more travel, also doesn't come with the lengthened steering shaft, or pitch stopper, both will be necessary. I don't think BYB has the pitch stopper either...but they have a block for the front of the skidplate so you can still use it. but it's been proven insufficient if you're really wheeling hard. anything above 30s or so will be very hard to fit because of the firewall. but anything up to that will be quite easy with any amount of lift, especially if you're willing to trim the corners off the fenders. yes, do the rear disc conversion. it's a HUGE improvement, if you're serious at all about wheeling it, you'll love the extra power and control with 4-wheel disc brakes. have you read the Frequently Asked Questions page? lots of good info there

sounds good. I still have to take the x-member stuff off, but I'll be doing it within the next week. I'll shoot you a pm when I've got everything together.

you can have what comes off easily. I forget if they're 2" or 3. remember, I have both lifts, and I'm converting the other way I may have an extra set of 3" upper shock drop plates like the ones BYB uses, you could use those instead, that way you could keep your accord springs, but ease your axles a bit. and use bigger tires to get the rest of your car up off the ground

yep, I got this much figured out....I think the fuel pump relay already has a ground, it needs power to the green wire doesn't it?? I got it to click by wiring it this way...

who says you need more lift to get bigger tires? my black wagon has a 3" BYB lift with stock springs and non-adjustables with 29s. I say remove the accord springs, and do some fender trimming, then run big enough tires to get the ride height you want. otherwise, I'm thinking of removing those same blocks from said black wagon for the crawl 4 the cure next weekend. if I do, you can have them and the bolts for shipping (assuming they're not totally trashed....which they might be)