Numbchux

Well, you could leave the headlights on all the time so it never goes in DRL mode. On the BE/BH Outbacks, disabling the DRLs is as easy as unplugging one connector at the DRL module, but I'm sure it's different on the Forester.

I just bought these for the low beams in my '00 Outback, and I'm pretty pleased with them. Fit in the stock housing, good optics with a sharp cutoff (made me realize that my LH housing is aimed at the ground since my deer hit last year). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNZPPC2/ I don't know about the Forester. But on my Outbacks, the H1 is the low beam and DRL, but when in DRL mode, it gets lower voltage. LEDs will flicker in this mode, so disabling the DRL is a must.

It would. It took quite a bit of time to do then, and I was single, and working part time, and "going" to school....well, enrolled anyway. Got a wife, 2 kids, career, old house, and a couple dozen other projects, now. I like to stay active and see what people are doing, and offer help when I can, but I can't see me sitting down and re-doing the manual.

The Liberty has a button on the dash, it's a single momentary button, when 12v is provided on that wire to the control module, it turns the system on, and then again on the same wire, it turns off. Easy enough. This button also has an indicator light in it to tell you when the system is on, you may want to replicate that somewhere. The stalk on the steering wheel has 3 functions. Accel/resume, Decel/set, and Cancel. This is done using a 12v momentary pulse on 2 wires. There are a couple diodes in the switch so it provides 12v to both wires simultaneously for the cancel function (see attached). You could make that your 4th function by replicating those diodes, or leave it off (easy enough to touch the brake pedal to cancel or turn the system off). I assume the switches are from an EA81 sedan or wagon. I don't have any good diagrams on the function of those, but again, shouldn't be hard with a multimeter to figure out how they function and apply a power source to one wire and get it out on another wire when the switch is pressed.

The AWD is crap? Because a functioning VLSD center does surprisingly well offroad. Or you just mean you don't like the gearing in your AWD transmission. I'm just saying you are trading off the gearing for AWD. I drove an EJ-swapped EA82 with stock size tires and a PT4WD transmission for awhile, and HATED it in FWD. It would roast a front tire when you even looked at the throttle, so I was constantly putting it in and out of 4WD when accelerating or turning. Big tires helps, but the stock EA82 geometry is not condusive to traction. I'm pretty apathetic towards the Subaru dual-ranges. It's just not enough. I started building an AWD, 4.444, 1.59 transmission, but got stuck when the Carbonetic front LSD wouldn't clear the low range gears. Since then I've spent more time in vehicles with real gearing (my 4runner with 2.28 low and a torque converter, or a built Toyota manual with 5.29 axles, and double transfer cases with 2.28 and 4.7), and it just doesn't seem worth it.

Yes, that is just a check valve, it can clog and cause the gas pump to shut off immediately. On the cars with that, we always sold the nuts, too, as the studs usually twist off with them in the old one. Did you ever actually run your VIN on a parts lookup site (parts.subaru.com or partsouq.com both have VIN-specific lookups)? I'd highly reccomend doing that to make sure you've got the right one.

Missing some vital details. What car is this? What cruise system are you using? Here's a generic answer. The EA82 cruise system uses a latching on/off switch, so the switch stays where you leave it, whereas a window switch is momentary. Many EJ systems use a single momentary button to control on and off function. There are ways to use a momentary switch to control a relay, simplest is to just use a latching relay (which would use a separate "on" and "off" function). Window switches can function a couple different ways, where they reverse the power themselves, or just operate a relay. But either way, a few minutes with the correct cruise diagram, and a multimeter on your switch and you should be able to replicate the appropriate signals for the accel/decel buttons (usually just a switch to ground).

Depends on which transmission you'll use. But almost all the EA82 DR transmissions are from non-turbo cars, and are 23 spline front axle stubs. The only 23 spline front EJ axles are '93-'94 FWD 5MT Imprezas. You can put 25 spline stubs in there, but you have to split the transmission. RX Turbos had 25 spline stubs, but they only have 1.19 (vs 1.59) low range. Yes, transmission is a different length. Wheelbase is different. AFAIK, a custom length driveshaft will be needed. EA82 DR transmissions will require swapping to a 3.9 or 3.7 rear diff, depending which trans you use. IMO, you're hacking up what little creature comforts give the BG platform an edge over the EA82. The EA82 platform is lighter, and simpler. Front axles will be simple, driveshaft is simple. FWD sucks more with the EA82 geometry than EJ, so if you want any sort of pavement performance, go EJ (and AWD). Unless you're launching an inflatable boat, you'll be abusing your clutch with any Subaru manual transmission. Part of me has always liked the Ute versions of the wagons, seeing the new Smyth kits makes me actually want a GG Impreza! I have to say, if one of those ended up in my possession, the exhaust stacks would be in the scrap heap SO fast....but each to their own.

I think you'll have to be more specific. I don't think anything on a '90 Loyale has a Personal Identification Number. And what Control Unit? Engine? Cruise? Door lock? probably others...

As was said, you're looking for EA81, so there are a few options. FYI, it's not "they", just "him"

00-04 Legacy and Outback hoods. Hood with a scoop is unique to the Baja turbo. IIRC the washer nozzle spacing is slightly different on the early ones, so you'll want to carry over the hoses. Legacy uses a smaller grill, so it won't meet up with your bumper, but an Outback/Baja grill can be swapped onto it.

"Production"..Nothing mainstream like Rancho, Skyjacker, Rough Country, etc. But there's a couple small companies making stuff. My go-to these days is www.SJRlift.com

Go to your local dealership and have the parts guys put together a quote for you (even if you don't buy from them, although the kind thing to do would be to buy something there for their time). They'll likely have a good idea of what's typically done. When I worked there, we saw them often, and kept the tube in stock. My concern with the aftermarket, is of all the times I looked them up, I never noticed a pattern. There were like 4 different part numbers, and didn't seem to be any consistency on what fit what. At the very least, you'll want the gasket and 3 screws up at the top. IIRC, the other hoses and stuff were on a case-by-case basis. I know I didn't replace anything else on my '97 when I did it.

The EA81 has very few electrical components that are specific to the engine, so you don't need to remove much. The vast majority of your time will be spent stripping and prepping the EJ harness

Drove you nuts? That's what they're supposed to do.

Ah, I didn't follow that. Not much I can tell you remotely. I'd be printing out all the diagrams for everything on that circuit and working my way through it with a multimeter

I just did it on my '00 Outback, and did a how-to https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/fog-light-modification-how-to.519679/

Wagon? IIRC, the backup lights on that are in the hatch. The wiring harness that passes from the body into the rear hatch is pretty notorious from breaking with the fatigue from opening and closing the hatch causing all kind of electrical gremlins. It is absolutely possible to splice in a new section of wire, but the most complete fix is to replace that whole harness. We kept them in stock at the dealer where I worked, and MSRP was about $80. Pull the back edge of the headliner down, and unplug that harness from the body, and then see if your fuse blows.

I had the EJ switch on mine hooked up to some other warning light on the EA82 dash. Something with the AT, maybe? My car was originally an auto, and swapped to a manual at the same time. Yes, stock sensors are BSPT.

False There's a wire or 2 in the circuit running to the headlight switch so they only work with the low beams on. I've modified this on almost all my cars. sirtokesalot, if you'd care to enlighten us as to what you're working on, I'll answer your question. I normally will not even respond if I have to ask this.

Look them up on RockAuto. Most brands list extended and compressed lengths of the bare strut. The upper mounts are all the same, so that should give you an accurate baseline. It won't tell you spring rates, so there's some variation in how it'll sit once it's loaded...

Turbo legacy didn't have a cap on the radiator, the bleed came right off the expansion tank on the motor to the overflow tank. I would put a higher-pressure cap on the radiator, and then run both hoses to the overflow, just in case.

By far the #1 problem for radio replacements when I worked at the dealer was bluetooth pairing issues. If it's under warranty, bring it to the dealer. My mom's 2012 Impreza radio stopped connecting. We bought a used one (don't remember if we found a local yard, or bought on ebay) and swapped it in. Or get as much information off the radio as you can (faceplate ID, brand, etc.) and call the dealership parts deptartment. There are some factory remanufactured options that aren't terribly costly.

Trouble Codes? My first thought is a post-MAF air leak. i.e. hose off, cracked intake tube, etc. But that's a stab in the dark.

I don't have the diagrams in front of me. Is this something that maybe could be tested from the pump side? There's at least 2 feet of snow on the hood of my XT6, but if this weather keeps up, I might be able to get to it enough to get the hood open this weekend. Won't be able to get the trunk open and get to the ECU until I can move the car, which won't be until the snow thaws AND ground dries up....