Numbchux

oh man!! I've never had that much fun wheeling!! it was just me, and KickAssFlash in his jeep. butwe got tons of video, so when I get it on my computer, it will be available.

4.44s or even 4.56s for an EA82 5MT D/R tranny that's pretty much it....for me anyway. I don't want to open the 'more articulation' can of worms.

agreed, I've had a few that had been stored for a while (and mine, when the crank angle sensor went out and I couldn't figure it out, lots of cold cranking in cold weather with no spark....), an oil change and a little MMO (marvel mystery oil) couldn't hurt. What I do, is make sure the oil is good, and the pressure is good, then start it, and leave it alone for awhile. I bet you it will go away after awhile.

yes I do, and wouldn't consider anything else for an EA82. with the addition of an SJR 2" diff shim, you can easily run it adjusted for 5" and not worry about the rear axles. cutting and fabbing? just cutting the rear bump stops right? or am I forgetting something.

one last try. We're leaving the twin cities around 10am for my place in Duluth. we'll be spending the night there, then heading up to gilbert ealy saturday.

what? maybe a fullsize, but they're so long, they'll still get high-centered faster. it's awefully hard to get any clearance at the center with a divorced tcase. my exhaust hangs down pretty low, and I still have more clearance in the middle than my buddies wrangler on 35s.

that's at MOAB. so I probably won't/haven't been the first, but someday, I'll do it. They make a run out there every year.

that's the one!

I stopped by on my way into town the other day, and it turned out he had the cam timing all wrong....hehe. took me about 5 minutes to fix it. now it runs pretty well, it's got a monster vacuum leak (runs better if you cover the intake hole with your hand), so we're still converting it. we just got a fuel pump that looked quite new off an '88 t-wagon in the local junkyard. as well as the rear discs. we'll have this thing up a running sweet in no time. now if AA would get ther butt in gear and get that group buy started, we could get it lifted too......

another vote for disconnecting the control arm from the endlink and crossmember over ball joint. I, too, have done it both ways, and the ball joint way is a huge PITA by comparison.

I took my timing belt covers off, and have never looked back! and I've had my motor running underwater, a number of times. It may take a little life off them and the tensioners/idlers, but it makes the replacement process a 20 minute job, instead of an hour. I've done a couple sets on the side of the road, and it's hardly even an incedent, if I had to fight with the covers, I would've called someone, canceled whatever I was going to, gotten a tow (hopefully I'm close to home so a tow rope could be used), and set some serious time aside for the repair. just make sure you've got the knowhow, tools, and parts to do it if it does break, and you'll be set. and it's actually the other way around, the cams spin at half the speed of the crank. and the oil pump (as already said) spins at the same speed as the crank. I resealed an oil pump with 230k miles on it (probably origional seals too), and it worked as good as new. the seals were less than $10 too, even from a dealer.

+75

yep, KickAssFlash and I were talking yesterday about that, he's still got a bunch of herculiner roll-on bedliner left over from when he did the interior of his jeep. we'll probably do it to our wagons (his purely for the protection, since it's already black).

do a search, McBrat has a neat graphic of where you can grind on the lift block to push it inward a bit. but it's just the inside edge, you need to find a way to move it in towards that center more. be creative, the only realistic way to do it is to move the strut tops inward (theoretically, you could move the steering knuckles out, but that would require custom control arms, and therefore custom axles, and it would screw with your toe......yikes). Just look at how it all goes together, and see how you could make it better, keeping in mind that you don't want to change the shape of the strut towers too much, since they are a pretty serious structural part of the car. you can definately do a little pounding, but just keep that in mind.

oh yea, under the hood would be a good option as long as water isn't a concern. my rig is an offroad one, so I needed to find something high and dry that would be safe from the iron-ore-filled mud up here in northern MN.

bump. I guess the paperwork etc. for the permit didn't go through, so we won't have any booths or anything, but I'll be there, and I'm really hoping Austin comes. anyone? free lodging at my place in Duluth Friday night, then we drive up there, and go wheeling all day

I got 2 buddies (fishbiker15 is one of them, so he's already in the list) who 'need' lifts ASAP. so whenever you guys get are ready, let's start this thing.

PC is looking better every day!

pics, as promised: it's certainly not the beefiest thing in the world, but it's been plenty for our needs. it'll hold all we dare to put on that little trailer. it pulle the remains of my '85 wagon to the scrapyard. and that turned out to be almost 800 pounds....

Don't quote me on this, but I have heard, from numerous sources, numberous times. that sea foam, despite saying that you can add it to your oil, is not good for extended use in the oil. it's chemicals eat away the seals some. it's a little late now, but for future reference.... I've had VERY good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil. Big red bottle at any auto parts store. add a few cups of that to your oil (don't overfill....), and let it run for awhile. how's your oil pressure?

you say an extra fuse box.....one out of another subaru? I was going to do this, but when I pulled the box out of my parts car, it was substantially too complex. way overkill. so I just got one from JCWhitney, it has one big terminal on one end for the + power. and little slots for regular automotive fuses, and a tab next to each slot that you would wire to your accessory. I have not yet had a chance to mount it. but I will probably mount it between the steering column and the radio, on the dash. there's a little grill thing right in front of where the door chime is, and I was going to cover that up. that way it's accessable, but relatively out of the way. everywhere else I could think of would be a pain in the butt to get to for repairs. I don't remember if I got the 8 position or the 10..... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2005172/showCustom-0/p-2005172/N-111+10201+600001611/c-10101

I've never encountered anything that I could climb, where the ebrake wasn't enough just to hold the car in place.

I understand that. but I don't understand why it would work any better than working the clutch and throttle with your feet, and working the brakes with your hand. no modification required for that....

just use a brake handle from a bike. mount it to your shifter right below the knob. I'm not sure if you could make it work with the regular throttle cable, or a bike cable. but that part will require a little creativity. however, I fail to see the point on a subaru. They're already equiped with a hand brake. The reason other rigs started using those was the ebrake is a pedal. and it was easier to relocate the throttle than it is the brake. not to mention the fact that it would suck HARDCORE for any street driving.

that wouldn't solve anything. it's a matter of clutch vs. torque converter, not how many pedals vs. how many feet.....