Numbchux

yea, it'll be easy while you're doing that DR swap yes

yes you can make it out of aluminum no you won't notice the weight difference.

:confused: I never had anything like that?? even with my seized ujoints!! and about the accuracy of the bolt holes. it's virtually impossible to get an accurate dimension for an old car like this, the geometry just isn't going to be the exact same from car to car.....I too had to ream out the holes a bit, but nothing substantial, I don't hold it against them one bit. and the BYB kit just isn't as weak as it looks. it's vulnerable, but not that bad.

the alloy wheels made me look closer.... and it has the little rubber things in front of the rear wheels

I just noticed....it's a turbo!

The 4.44's came stock in some newer subarus, I beleive mostly autos....but I'm not sure. if you have 2, mounting them will be no different than mounting the 3.90 diffs in a tcased rig. the case is virtually the same.

When you use a divorced Tcase, you don't use the stock front diff. you add one underneath it. Because of this, you can VERY easily use a stock subaru 4.44 r180 in the front. you could even use an LSD one. we did the math, IIRC 4.44 final drive ratio would turn 30s with stock gearing. also, you can use the measily lo range in the tranny with the tcase's RWD hi range, which could probably turn 35s with stock gearing...

no, the beast is not swapped onto a truck frame. those are there to mount the tcase, as the unibody cannot take the torque in it's stock form I forgot about rooinater! He's tcased too IIRC in fact, I attached a pic of the only subaru I can think of with a custom lift over 6" that isn't tcased! It was for sale here a while ago, and I heard it ended up in MN, but I don't know anything else.

the previous owner of the poopenvagon wrapped some fabric around the 4WD lever to keep it quite, and sometime is pushes it up into 4WD. using 4lo in a straight line isn't a problem, but if you have to turn, heaven forbid, you're stuck in FWD. I will be doing this as part of my EJ swap this summer in the Chuxwagon

on EA82's the valve size in the drums and discs are virtually the same. on EA81's they are slightly different, but people swap them with no serious ill effects. btw, it would be the proportioning valve....not the master cylindar that would need to be replaced.

There are a bunch of hatches and brats....but this is a wagon....

I don't know of any EA81s, but I can think of 3 8"+ lifted EA82 wagons. 2 of them have tcases. I think if you're going that high, you might as well go all the way and do the tcase thing. It'll add a whole new level of complexity to the build, but it would be soooo sweet! turbone's hatch has a tcase too, btw.

question: can a warped rotor be turned? or does it have to be replaced....

Sounds like textbook warped rotor.....where these 'new' rotors really new? or just different? could also be bad CV, but that wouldn't cause almost any pedal pulsing.

agreed, this is probably the best thing that you can do for a subaru. HUGE upgrade.

it's for the lo range indicator.

oh yea, definately get yourself an extended diff breather!

yep, my old '85 wagon came from iowa. Then I brought it up here.... it only lasted about a year before it fell apart, quite literally.

I've never had this problem, and there are some really tight trails, I've gotten around corners (I can think of a couple in particular) without stopping that 3 wranglers had to make multi-point turns on.... if you've got a your front locked, it'll be hard to turn with or without 4WD And, having driven a rear-locked Jeep offroad a bunch, it doesn't really effect turning radius much. We actually tested the turning radius with and without it locked (my buddy has a rear air locker ), and the difference was only about a foot.... and yes roundeye, I agree, that's why I have pavement sucks stickers on either side of my blue wagon (with the .com cut off!)

I've had it happen on all 4 rear axles I've taken off. 2 I got off with a Mapp Torch and a big hammer. one is still on the car, but not broken, yet (yikes) and the last from a parts car that I wanted the diff for my LSD swap. I ended up dissasembling the axle so just the cup was on the diff, removing it from the rest of the car, torching it, soaking it, and pounding on it.....nothing. finally, one day after torching and pounding, the cap in the bottom came out. through which I could access the external 10mm torx bolt that holds the stub in the diff. I still have that stub, and it still has a DOJ cup on it. my buddy pulled one off the hub side with an acetalyne (sp?) torch once. got it red hot, then hit it with an air chisel.

OOOOOHHH..... Yea, i've very much thought of it before, especially with the hills here in Duluth. lo range 2WD would be a huge clutch saver! The Road that I have to go up to get to my alley is so steep, that in Hi range, I cannot use second gear, no matter how high I let the rpm's go in first, it will not maintain speed in second. I was origionally thinking I'd pull a front axle for summer use, but I think this summer I'll have a buddy (I know....I still don't know how to weld....I'm sorry) fab something up. I don't, however, see how this would be helpful when offroading....

And if you don't realize what it is, you'll probably soil yourself. It's REALLY scary!!! Also, if it's effected by turning, it's not the inner joint, it's angle remains the same except for when the suspension compresses. So it's sound will not change when the wheel is turned. Also, if it's an outer one, it'll probably pull, or you'll feel the vibration in the steering wheel.

<3 <3 <3 only thing that could make it better.....is more lights!!!! Don't mount them ON the roof, but more like behind it, on the/a roll bar (I can't tell if you have one already or not). Then it'll be far enough that it won't light up your hood or windsheild. And if it gets bad on the t-tops, a strip of tape across the bottom will virtually completely eliminate that.

please explain. I have no clue what you mean...

OK, that makes sense. I don't think the tranny is that much of a weak link.....