Numbchux

I just had my girfriend crank it while I checked the coil, neither side pulsed. dimmed slightly, presumably from the extra draw of the starter, but definately didn't pulse.

OK, pulled the disty, pulled it apart, and the sensor looked dirty, so I cleaned it. let it dry out, put it all back together, put it back in. Also put the Accel Super Stock Coil in it, with a wire soldered onto the case that's now bolted to a nearby groundstrap, so I know it's grounded!! anyway, still won't start.....ugh.....BUT it threw more codes!!! 13....crank angle sensor or circuit 24....Air Control Valve or circuit 34....EGR solenoid or circuit 35....purge control solenoid or circuit 51....Neutral Switch well, I knew about the EGR, and I'm not suprised about the Neutral switch, since when Morgan converted it to 4WD, he didn't even put in the speedo cable...... I'm going to go swap distributers, to see if the crank angle sensor is the problem.... but I don't know what the Air control valve or puge control solenoid is?!

I've done that before, but it threw a code, and it's not throwing a code this time...but yes, I've got a spare, I'll try cleaning it, and then I'll try replacing it.

I tweaked the unibody at the radius rod mounts once....and that's it. I don't know of anyone here who's beefed up the front end, and I also don't think anyone here breaks stuff on a regular basis. So I don't think most of us can help on anything other than a theoretical level.

There is definately all of 12V + DC current to both sides of the coil (both + and - ......why is it - if it isn't -?!) I did check the codes, just the EGR.... and yes, fuses are fine.

I'm VERY interested, and it sounds like a fair price. but I probalby won't have that kind of money available for quite awhile. but if I could scrape it together, I'd buy one!

OK, here are my rigs: (only counts as one pic since it has the specs) "Chuxwagon" And MorganM's old "PoopenVagon" '88 GL Wagon, converted to D/R from FWD 3" BYB lift, I beleive was the one that BYB of Australia sent PK to reproduce 15" Pug Steelies, 29" Wal-Terrains custom tube bumpers, custom stainless steel skidplate open diffs

yes that's where I'd start

ok, swapped coils, still nothing. burned out my trouble light, and it starting snowing AGAIN , so I stopped trying...for tonight

Thank you so much Skip! I was testing to see if there was voltage between the 2 poles on the coil. not from one to ground, and/or the other to ground. Anyway, I did this, and I DO have power to the coil. But I still don't have any voltage coming from the coil, even while cranking. I'm off to look for a trouble light and try swapping coils...

here's the parks website: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/ohv/iron_range/index.html

you could get adjustable front struts off an '85-'86 4WD EA82 GL, and some RX springs, That should level it out. But doing just a suspension lift on the front will be hard on the CV's. I don't think there's anyone who makes just a 2" or 2.5" lift, but I bet you could get one of them to make you some.

I'm not sure what your problem is, but I can offer this: We used to say my ol' '85 sounded like it was running under water, I had the idle set super low, and the y-pipe was coming off the head on one side. so the backpressure would cause that sort of sound.....probably completely unrelated, but it immediately reminded me of my old wagon, so I thought I'd throw it out there on another note, how long did you try cranking it? Did it sound like it was trying to start?

I had one in my blue wagon, until it got stolen.....but I just ordered 2 more, one for each

those are the fusible links.....they're fine

what about balancing? I would be a little nervous about hand modifying something that heavy that spins that fast. seems to me that a slight screw-up in balancing could shake your engine to pieces

Yea, QMan's got one in the rear too....... check the application link on the page you showed us: http://www.arb.com.au/alac/215110.pdf no subarus, and a pretty limited nissan selection.

sorry, I'm starting to get very frustrated with this..... anyway, I've checked the fuses, I've checked the fusible links, I've checked much of the ignition wiring, and it all appears OK, but it still won't start.

WJM has said that phantom-grip is pretty crappy and I beleive Jibs had the only DR, phantom-gripped tranny that mudrat made (I haven't heard of others at least) and he's been out of a tranny for a few months now, and I don't think it's because Mudrat did a bad job of rebuilding it. I also remember seeing something on MN-Jeep about someone using one....but I don't remember where, I'll look into it for you oh yea, forester_ranger had a DR box with a phantom grip in it that John built, but I don't think that got wheeled very hard....if at all.....nor have I heard anything from him

borrowed a test light..... check, check, check, and check......still dead

McBrat got 30s on his old 4" lifted turbo brat, but he had to pound.cut the crap out of the fenders and firewall. if you're not going to get DR (which, btw, I think is dumb....but it's not my car), I would not get anything larger than 26s or 27s. those big tires will kill your gearing, and with no lo range and an EA82 under the hood, you're not going to be able to crawl over a curb.

I've heard VERY bad things about phantom grip, especially in an offroad situation. WJM, however, found that an aftermarket LSD for any 5-speed subaru tranny will fit, using the stock ring and pinion of course.

to the top!

actually, more than that, cause the 4WD struts are longer than the 2WD ones to begin with

yes, it can be done. the car design is identical (except you don't need the center driveshaft bearing blocks)... BUT, I'd say go get a skidplate off a late '80s 4WD GL, this will bolt right up, and protect your oil pan. and then cut/pound out your fenders to put slightly larger tires on it. as said before, the lift actually makes your oil pan MORE vulnerable, as it's dropped ~3" by comparison to the rest of the body. Check out this pic of my wagon shortly after the lift: see how bad the oil pan sticks out?