Numbchux

so I've been driving my car ('88 Gl Wagon, 3" BYB lift, etc.) quite a bit these days, but just because of scheduling, etc. haven't driven it in a few days. I know the gas tank was real low, so I went out real early so I could go straight to a gas station. Got out there, and it wouldn't start. Great, so I throw my gas can in my Girlfriends Escort, hook up the battery charger (in case it took alot of cranking), and the magnetic block heater, and head off to class, after class, I pick up a couple gallons of gas and come home. I put in the gas, and tried it again. Still nothing, turns over fine, but won't even fire. great, so I pull off the coil wire and test for spark....nothing Any ideas? it's dark and snowing now, and I don't want to try to diagnose it now....but anyone have a similar problem? it's been extremely cold this weekend, well below 0 for a few days there....anyone had a car just not start? it's cranking strong, and it really isn't that cold now. but it just won't fire.

if it were me, and I had a parts car...I'd swap trannies...

having wheeled a bit with Austin in his Imp, I think the biggest disadvantage is the lack of lo range. but the extra lo rpm torque helps a bunch

let me put in my vote on 'new' verses used axles, as someone who's replaced more axles than I can, or would care to, count, both used, and remanufactured. You're average 'new' remanufactured axle is total crap. and won't last very long at all, even under normal use. but an OEM subaru axle, no matter how old, as long as the boot is kept in good condition, will last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles. it sounds like you're diff stub has come out of the tranny. is this on your driver? or your parts car? if it's the car you're driving, the axle's probably fine, and the diff bearings went out, causing the stub to work itself loose. if it's on the parts car, and you want to get the stub out of the axle. a vice and a MAPP torch can be invaluable tools! oh yea, and the axles are reversable from one side to the other

I don't have the solution to the problem, but I can tell you that there is a very simple throttle cable. one end attached to the pedal, the other to the throttle body. no electronics

ah, the video from the pic we've all seen.....cool

and GL-10's

^^overkill.... this does remind me, however, that when you're in the water, don't, if you can possibly avoid it, push in the clutch. if you're in deep enough water, and you push in the clutch, water can get between the plate and flywheel.....even if the engine's running, you're not coming out!

is that a new hood/grill/headlights? I thought you had the scoop and vents?

sure, it could be done, but why? the EA82 (loyale) turbo is not well matched to it's own 1.8l engine, it would not go well with your 2.2l. Find someone upgrading their WRX turbo and use the td04 from that. then you won't have to rig much at all, just use WRX parts

I've never had any trouble with either, but I always look after muddin, and the top of the dipstick is dry. and I've got my dif breather extended up into the spare tire well

lol, that's just funny....it was 20 below in the sun here on friday....not to mention the wind off lake superior....mmmmm nonetheless, it looks sweet!! looks like the trip up to two harbors I took a couple months ago with the North Shore Wheelers....my car was the only one to leave this hole unassisted before the fullsize chevy broke it up a bit more

well...nevermind....I decided to try it with it off the keyring....and what do you know? it worked? one half slides off of the other, with a CR1620 watch battery in it.....for future reference

well, here's the page out of my parts quick reference guide if you want to order a new one

That's right, my latest GL came with it's origional master key with the little LED light in it to light up the ignition or door lock in the dark. but I'm sure it's origional, so it's very very faint. still functional, but useless nonetheless....anyone replaced the battery in it?

I tried very extensively to disable this....to no avail. I found that everything relatively accessable will also disable the power locks. the only way is to either pull the cluster, and pull the bulb. or put some electrical tape over it (just a large piece in the general vicinity on the plastic cover will do, my latest wagon came like that) though if you find a way...I'd love to know it!!

oh yea, all the carpet is torn out of both of my wagons.... I like your concept of the container over the disty, but it would have to have a pretty small and low opening to combat the water effectivly. I've had problems (with a brand new OEM subaru disty gasket) in water not nearly deep enough to actually submerge the disty, but just splash up on to it. however you decide to do it, bring some paper towels/kleenex in a plastic bag so you cna dry things out. and if you're not getting any spark from the coil, it could be the crank angle sensor in the bottom of the disty, if you get really mucky water in there it'll gum up the sensor and you won't get any spark at all. That turned out to be my problem up at iron range offroad...

it's more like a torque converter. 100% of the torque goes to the front. and the rear goes through this clutch pack. it doesn't have to be a stay on the pavement, but it's not going to be doing anything real serious. Right now you've got essentially the same setup as an EJ 4EAT AWD tranny with the Duty C locked. it's pretty strong, but the rear output will still slip under full load. the lack of gearing (single range, IIRC 1st gear in a 3AT is higher than a 5-speed) is a larger detriment to the 4WD system...

that's right....thanks for the correction

it's a vacuum actuated clutch pack....slippage happens....but it's hard on it, so it shouldn't be used on-road, or in RWD like a D/R.....and less-than-ideal for offroad, since it's not quite true 4WD

my '85 had one when I got it...but it leaked, so there was alwasy a puddle of oil behind it. so I just got a new electric sender and made the one in the dash work.... but yes, it can be done

not sure what the rules are on suspension. but I would say you'd want Outback suspension, or maybe aftermarket for the outback. a 5-speed, and a built EJ22 N/A, but I'm a little biased towards that combination

I hate to say it, but (at least in the pictures) it looked better before. and I like operose's idea about lengthening and 'rounding' off the bars. but I bet it's beefy! good work!

Austin...where was that? looks kinda like stubbs bay, but I can't tell

yep, look for the rotary rx, it sounds sweet, but I haven't heard anything about it in months