Numbchux

those are the fusible links.....they're fine

what about balancing? I would be a little nervous about hand modifying something that heavy that spins that fast. seems to me that a slight screw-up in balancing could shake your engine to pieces

Yea, QMan's got one in the rear too....... check the application link on the page you showed us: http://www.arb.com.au/alac/215110.pdf no subarus, and a pretty limited nissan selection.

sorry, I'm starting to get very frustrated with this..... anyway, I've checked the fuses, I've checked the fusible links, I've checked much of the ignition wiring, and it all appears OK, but it still won't start.

WJM has said that phantom-grip is pretty crappy and I beleive Jibs had the only DR, phantom-gripped tranny that mudrat made (I haven't heard of others at least) and he's been out of a tranny for a few months now, and I don't think it's because Mudrat did a bad job of rebuilding it. I also remember seeing something on MN-Jeep about someone using one....but I don't remember where, I'll look into it for you oh yea, forester_ranger had a DR box with a phantom grip in it that John built, but I don't think that got wheeled very hard....if at all.....nor have I heard anything from him

borrowed a test light..... check, check, check, and check......still dead

McBrat got 30s on his old 4" lifted turbo brat, but he had to pound.cut the crap out of the fenders and firewall. if you're not going to get DR (which, btw, I think is dumb....but it's not my car), I would not get anything larger than 26s or 27s. those big tires will kill your gearing, and with no lo range and an EA82 under the hood, you're not going to be able to crawl over a curb.

I've heard VERY bad things about phantom grip, especially in an offroad situation. WJM, however, found that an aftermarket LSD for any 5-speed subaru tranny will fit, using the stock ring and pinion of course.

to the top!

actually, more than that, cause the 4WD struts are longer than the 2WD ones to begin with

yes, it can be done. the car design is identical (except you don't need the center driveshaft bearing blocks)... BUT, I'd say go get a skidplate off a late '80s 4WD GL, this will bolt right up, and protect your oil pan. and then cut/pound out your fenders to put slightly larger tires on it. as said before, the lift actually makes your oil pan MORE vulnerable, as it's dropped ~3" by comparison to the rest of the body. Check out this pic of my wagon shortly after the lift: see how bad the oil pan sticks out?

both of my lifted wagons have done thousands upon thousands of freeway miles. at 70+ mph. I think it's as safe as can be, but be sure you're paying attention, and you don't take your hands off the wheel. a crosswind can start something fierce if you're not paying attention. I'd rather be driving my wagon, than fullsize truck!

I think a better/easier application would be the dual ebrake. Just mount 2 handles, one for each front wheel. if one starts to slip, pull up on that handle.

Subaru already makes gears as low as 4.44s for the EJ series tranny. But the mesh is different...

yes...you do. If you don't need lo range with big tires, you don't need a lift. any of the 3 lift suppliers are great. ask around, see which best fits your budget and timeframe. I've got one BYB lifted wagon, and one AA lifted wagon (with an SJR piece, for more lift). And they're all great stuff. So don't worry about quality between them. replace CV boots before the whole axle. and if you have to replace the axle. get a junkyard one. DO NOT get a remanufactured one from Napa, Checker, Schucks, etc. etc. They're CRAP!!!

well, I don't think the torsion bar could hold up the car with the extra leverage. depending, of course, on how much you lengthen it. so just convert to EA82 coil-overs. it complicates that shock-finding process a bunch, but completely solves the rest of your problem

bingo....that's why it hasn't been done before but, like the other thread, It's all good ideas! The reason that a wider stance allows better travel is the longer axles. I wouldn't, however, go trying any of this on your daily driver. for a couple reasons, it will reduce everyday driveability, and it could easily put you out of commision for extended periods of time btw...it looks like we're the only ones still awake :cool:

what I'm trying to say, is if you've found a way around the axle problem, you're idea sounds great!

the axles are the #1 concern in reference to travel. It's a good idea, but you'll need to drop your diff considerably in order to allow downflex. the other consideration is shocks. you'll need to find something that'll allow that much flex. as that is what is limiting the travel now (if you got longer travel shocks though....you'd have axle problems)

yes, you certainly could, but getting a custom ring and pinion gear set ade up right that meshed right, and was strong, would be gigantic $$$$$$$$$

well, I swapped in a presumed good amplifier (the car it came off of died of rust, and HG failure), and still nothing. fuses and fusable links are fine.... I'm gonna take the insurance off of it, if Murphy's law is in effect, it should be back in no time :-\

well, my '85 was pretty tired, it could barely get 6.5k my '88s both can hit 7k+ (more like 7200) the '92 hit it around 6.8k

^^ I doubt it's that much :-p I heard this phrase on here not long ago.... "a redline a day keeps the mechanic away" let's just say I know where the valves float on all 4 of my EA82's I can't comment on mileage, as I've never had a good example, my '85 ran like crap, my '92 had a 3-speed AT, and both my '88's are running ~28" tires.... and on gas, I put 90 in it once for the heck of it since it was the same price as the 87....no difference. we ran nothing but the cheapest ethanol-filled crap they'd sell us in my '92 loyale for the last 5+ years and 100k miles. leaks oil and is underpowered, but no problems

fair enough, that's why my mom doesn't give.... anyone else?