Numbchux

This comes up in the images search that carfreak posted. This is very common discussion with performance EJ block selection, as all 3 forms are available No easy answer to that without some serious thermodynamics engineering. And being that yours isn't going in a Subaru, airflow will be all different from most of the documentation. But the EA/ER engines have very weak cooling systems, heat will probably be your biggest challenge, depending how hard you try to push it. Err on the side of caution with radiator capacity, oil cooler (at least oil/coolant exchanger, oil/air can be hard to prevent overcooling) would likely be a good idea. A radiator that struggles to keep a 90hp EA82 cool can keep a 130hp EJ cool without any fans. Don't run a lower temp thermostat, though. Aluminum engines don't like being run cold, either. But if you've got adequate cooling capacity, you shouldn't go over "fully open" temp on the stat.

You speak the truth. One of the reasons the EA/ER engines have such a terrible cooling system. I've seen a couple big closed-deck EJ22t cars that required so much more cooling capacity than it seemed similar semi-closed blocks required.

Whoops. Tried to just add [url ] tags....fixed now. Yes, it's the same company. I haven't bought Subaru parts there, but I've bought others. I use their website all the time, as it will actually show you if a part is discontinued. Glad it was an easy fix!

Yep, there's a steel line under the intake manifold, with a little rubber hose up to the throttle body, that's likely your culprit. Can be capped off or bypassed. I love Toyotapartsdeal.com, and they have a Subaru counterpart (www.subarupartsdeal.com)

Agreed on the pins. When you replace the caliper, is it semi-loaded (comes with a bracket)? If you're reusing the bracket/pins, that's probably the problem. I keep a very close eye on my caliper slides on all my vehicles, and periodically clean and regrease them. Having far less issues since I started using Permatex Ceramic high temp brake lube.

Not much I can add here.... But FYI, a 2011 OBS will be a 4-speed 4EAT transmission. Last year in the Impreza chassis.

Yep, check for trouble codes. It's probably trying to tell you what's wrong. Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there's fuel in there. That can cause some weird running issues. Question the age and condition of the spark plugs and wires. If it's a 2.5 (96 Outback could be either one, autos had the 2.5, manuals had the 2.2) the plugs aren't terribly easy to get to, so have new Copper NGKs ready if you're going to check them. The 2.2 is pretty easy to pull one and inspect it.

"when you punch it", what if you roll gently into the throttle? It's completely normal for an electronically controlled transmission to skip from 4th to 2nd in necessary situations.

Yes, when changing ride height, the "correct" procedure is to loosen the bolt for any bushing that twists around the bushing during travel and retorque it at ride height.

So, your tail lights are on, but not the front parking lights? If that's the case, that's quite the issue. Might be something simple, but that's not likely the stop light. I suspect you've got broken/shorted wires, and/or corroded sockets and blown fuses. Do your front parking lights come on at all? Get a good wiring diagram (jdmfsm.info) and multimeter, and start testing.

Yep, been done hundreds, maybe thousands, of times.

Subarus use diagonal systems, one circuit will be LF/RR and the other RF/LR. It does not matter which is which. The 2-port master is for the ABS cars, because the ABS system is the "T" that splits the 2 circuits into 4. The hill holder does the same. So yes, you can just use a splitter. Similarly, you can use a 4-port master (non-ABS, non-hill holder) by blocking off the extra ports. Off the top of my head, the Loyale is probably a 7/8 bore, and the Legacy is probably 1". This will reduce the mechanical advantage between the master and the caliper/cylinders. Good option if you've also replaced with larger capacity calipers, though (I have a 1 1/16" SVX master in my XT6, but I also have early WRX front calipers, and 200SX rears)

01-04 Outback VDCs are the only cars I want for a daily driver. I LOVE the first gen EZ30D (2nd gen means immobilizer, which adds a heap of complexity, expensive keys, and a CEL disables the cruise).

I've always been taught to use a little dielectric grease on plug wires so they don't stick during install or removal and to keep any moisture out.

subaruairbagrecall.us doesn't appear to have a website (could still be a valid email, but suspicious). No mention of any mobile repair/contact on https://www.subaru.com/vehicle-recalls/airbags.html Here's a job posting on LinkedIn, though. https://www.linkedin.com/jobs/view/recall-specialist-at-marketsource-inc-1692844397 F'n weird

I worked at a dealer parts department for a few years. We sold a lot of plug wires, never had a warranty claim, and reused them whenever possible. I wouldn't pay their prices for them, personally. I've had great luck with aftermarket wires.

That's crazy, haven't heard of that. I would make some phone calls to make sure it's legit. It easily could be, though. I know Honda is going to great lengths to get these done (since they used Takatas in the driver's side, it's considerably more dangerous).

Join the group "Six Swapped Subarus" on Facebook. There's a couple guys there that have decoded the ROM to delete the auto transmission related code.

The front diff pinion shaft in a manual transmission AWD (EJ) transmission is considerably shorter than a FT4WD one (on a PT4WD the pinion shaft is one piece with the output shaft). But, I refer to what I said earlier

Not returning to center makes me suspect strut tops. Clunking is frequently sway bar/link bushings, but wouldn't effect your steering. Just disconnect it to test it.

I love XT6s and ER27s, but no. Not at all worth the work to swap it in this day and age. EJ22 is smaller, lighter, more reliable, more fuel efficient, better supported. ER27 ECU is mounted in the trunk, so you basically have to make a harness from scratch to swap it. Or spend the dough on a standalone. They use a different bellhousing pattern, so if you change your mind, you will need a different transmission adapter. If you want a 6-cylinder, get an EZ30. Modern, reliable, powerful. Don't mess with anything more than 20 years old (sorry EG33....getting to be a dinosaur as well).

I'm really not clear what you're asking. The center diff (on the rear of the transmission) has nothing to do with low range. And is COMPLETELY different between an auto and manual. In just about every single detail. You could put a dual-range 5MT into an XT6, but you can't put MT internals into an AT.

That's a very small change. Should be fine.

My blue '88 was like $100 in 2004. Broke a timing belt about 1/2 mile from where I bought it. If you had warm air in the heater vents, then the water pump was still working. Probably didn't overheat it.

Being that I live relatively close to the border, I'm familiar with the fact that parts are generally cheaper here. I regularly deal with customers from Canada, BUT, from the dealerships that I have worked, shipping stuff into Canada is a contract violation. But there's a general store right at the border that we ship to all the time. So yea, I gave my recommendation for a retailer. Maybe they can ship to you...