Numbchux

I hate to do this, but time to fire up the old search engines. Been documented many many many many many many many many many times. There are probably thousands of different methods and combinations. Hints: Your '87 GL-10 is an EA82 chassis. Motor mounts are the same for all EJ engines (as far as how they bolt to the engine crossmember). "Somebody" spent an enormous amount of their life compiling an EJ swap manual over 10 years ago, while it focuses on the simpler SOHC EJ22, a DOHC turbo version will be very similar. There have been STi versions of the WRX model for 26 years globally, and 16 years in the US. While the mechanical challenges of fitting it in your car are basically all the same (To date, they all use EJ series engines), there's a huge variation in these engines. If you want more specific answers, ask more specific questions. Presumeably your GL10 is already turbo, if not, you'll need a turbo engine crossmember or custom exhaust. Spend a couple dozen hours studying all the EJ-swapped EA82 cars, even the simple EJ18 and EJ22 ones (and of course, the turbo ones). Then spend another couple dozen hours studying turbo swaps into base model Imprezas and Legacies.

Well, the truth is, you won't find anything as simple and unkillable as an EA81 or early EJ22 made in the last 20 years. Cost, emissions and fuel efficiency have all come before longevity. The first gen EZ30 is probably the closest, but if it does go wrong, it's a lot harder to work on. But, compared to other offerings in that vintage, the EJ252/253 are pretty decent engines. The 08 will be a EJ253 (assuming it's not a turbo), which means variable valve timing. Probably an immobilizer ($200 key). And if the check engine light comes on, it disables the cruise.

My 2000 has 330k on it. Head gaskets fail ~80-100k miles, but they virtually always is just an oil leak. Check the oil and don't park over nice concrete, and keep driving it. I bought our 03 with 110k and leaking gasket, drove it to over 150k before fixing it and selling it. It's annoying, but won't leave you stranded.

Nope. I can't even think of any with an even number.

The wiki is a good start. The complete engine code is on the strut tower plate, if you're looking at a whole car. About the only easy piece with EJ engine codes, is that if the 5th digit is a letter, it's a phase I engine, if it's a number, it's phase II.

Here's the how to I did on it. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/post-5685977 And AutoZone part number

Must be an EJ transmission, too? Custom transmission crossmember, I assume? It's possible that the transmission mounts are too low, but I would think it would need to be considerable for this to happen. Are they the same motor mounts? Flywheel? Every EJ swap I've done personally used the EA82 transmission, and therefore flywheel, which is a smaller diameter than the EJ one. But plenty of people have used EJ flywheel and transmission, and I have not heard of anyone having this issue.

Doors do transfer. On the 1st and 2nd gens, the rear door glass was different between a sedan and wagon, I assume the same is true of the 3rd. I think the sunroof stuff is different. The only sunrooof-related part that I would consider a common failure part would be the cable that runs from the motor to the front glass, but I don't think that applies to the sedan, might even be Outback specific.

You really have tested the axles... Here's another options, '02-'04 Impreza Sedan axles (wagons are narrower, RS/TS or WRX doesn't matter). They're about an inch longer.

Yep, Outback grill is about 2" taller, and the bumper is cut lower to accomodate. Legacy grill can be used with an Outback bumper (will leave a gap, but function). I think both of his cars are Legacies, though, so shouldn't be a problem.

You're sort of on the right track. The male stubs on the '05 axles will pop right into the '01 transmission, after the stubs are removed from the '01. Unfortunately, that involves splitting the transmission as the stubs on a manual are held in with snap rings from the inside. You're sure the '01 axle won't work in the '05? Those chassis are VERY similar Here's the surtrack axle for an '01: And for an '05: 4" difference, but that's also counting the stub that protrudes into the transmission, which sounds like it would be really close.

Fuel pump assembly, especially if the cap isn't broken. That's about the only thing that's "prone" to failure. If it's a Limited, it'll have leather, which is very nice IMHO. OE Fog lights suck. They look neat, but not very functional. I sell any good ones off my cars, even if I'm keeping the car. I don't know how the GT ones mount, the Outback ones just bolt to the bottom of the bumper beam. So all I can say there is to watch for any extra bracketry behind the bumper cover. Yep, bumper will swap right over. The '02 may have smaller front brakes than your '03 (mid-year '02 change). Beyond that, normal partout stuff. Switches and lights are usually worth saving. If it's got a trailer hitch. I see a lot of deer crossing, so I would be saving any front bodywork.

Also there's a sticky in this section with new sources for the Endwrench articles. Or, google the document #.

A lot of leaks can end up there. Front main, oil pump. Even oil pressure switch can drip down the front of the motor and get blown back to the filter. The oil from a head gasket leak seems to frequently blow backwards as you drive and then drip off the engine crossmember/steering rack/sway bar more than straight down onto the oil filter. But that's a pretty blanket statement.

Yep. Even just turning around in my driveway, I don't want my headlights pointed at the house or down the road. They should turn off with the ebrake up, so I got in the habit of pulling the brake up one notch when I wanted to turn them off.

Well, you could leave the headlights on all the time so it never goes in DRL mode. On the BE/BH Outbacks, disabling the DRLs is as easy as unplugging one connector at the DRL module, but I'm sure it's different on the Forester.

I just bought these for the low beams in my '00 Outback, and I'm pretty pleased with them. Fit in the stock housing, good optics with a sharp cutoff (made me realize that my LH housing is aimed at the ground since my deer hit last year). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNZPPC2/ I don't know about the Forester. But on my Outbacks, the H1 is the low beam and DRL, but when in DRL mode, it gets lower voltage. LEDs will flicker in this mode, so disabling the DRL is a must.

It would. It took quite a bit of time to do then, and I was single, and working part time, and "going" to school....well, enrolled anyway. Got a wife, 2 kids, career, old house, and a couple dozen other projects, now. I like to stay active and see what people are doing, and offer help when I can, but I can't see me sitting down and re-doing the manual.

The Liberty has a button on the dash, it's a single momentary button, when 12v is provided on that wire to the control module, it turns the system on, and then again on the same wire, it turns off. Easy enough. This button also has an indicator light in it to tell you when the system is on, you may want to replicate that somewhere. The stalk on the steering wheel has 3 functions. Accel/resume, Decel/set, and Cancel. This is done using a 12v momentary pulse on 2 wires. There are a couple diodes in the switch so it provides 12v to both wires simultaneously for the cancel function (see attached). You could make that your 4th function by replicating those diodes, or leave it off (easy enough to touch the brake pedal to cancel or turn the system off). I assume the switches are from an EA81 sedan or wagon. I don't have any good diagrams on the function of those, but again, shouldn't be hard with a multimeter to figure out how they function and apply a power source to one wire and get it out on another wire when the switch is pressed.

The AWD is crap? Because a functioning VLSD center does surprisingly well offroad. Or you just mean you don't like the gearing in your AWD transmission. I'm just saying you are trading off the gearing for AWD. I drove an EJ-swapped EA82 with stock size tires and a PT4WD transmission for awhile, and HATED it in FWD. It would roast a front tire when you even looked at the throttle, so I was constantly putting it in and out of 4WD when accelerating or turning. Big tires helps, but the stock EA82 geometry is not condusive to traction. I'm pretty apathetic towards the Subaru dual-ranges. It's just not enough. I started building an AWD, 4.444, 1.59 transmission, but got stuck when the Carbonetic front LSD wouldn't clear the low range gears. Since then I've spent more time in vehicles with real gearing (my 4runner with 2.28 low and a torque converter, or a built Toyota manual with 5.29 axles, and double transfer cases with 2.28 and 4.7), and it just doesn't seem worth it.

Yes, that is just a check valve, it can clog and cause the gas pump to shut off immediately. On the cars with that, we always sold the nuts, too, as the studs usually twist off with them in the old one. Did you ever actually run your VIN on a parts lookup site (parts.subaru.com or partsouq.com both have VIN-specific lookups)? I'd highly reccomend doing that to make sure you've got the right one.

Missing some vital details. What car is this? What cruise system are you using? Here's a generic answer. The EA82 cruise system uses a latching on/off switch, so the switch stays where you leave it, whereas a window switch is momentary. Many EJ systems use a single momentary button to control on and off function. There are ways to use a momentary switch to control a relay, simplest is to just use a latching relay (which would use a separate "on" and "off" function). Window switches can function a couple different ways, where they reverse the power themselves, or just operate a relay. But either way, a few minutes with the correct cruise diagram, and a multimeter on your switch and you should be able to replicate the appropriate signals for the accel/decel buttons (usually just a switch to ground).

Depends on which transmission you'll use. But almost all the EA82 DR transmissions are from non-turbo cars, and are 23 spline front axle stubs. The only 23 spline front EJ axles are '93-'94 FWD 5MT Imprezas. You can put 25 spline stubs in there, but you have to split the transmission. RX Turbos had 25 spline stubs, but they only have 1.19 (vs 1.59) low range. Yes, transmission is a different length. Wheelbase is different. AFAIK, a custom length driveshaft will be needed. EA82 DR transmissions will require swapping to a 3.9 or 3.7 rear diff, depending which trans you use. IMO, you're hacking up what little creature comforts give the BG platform an edge over the EA82. The EA82 platform is lighter, and simpler. Front axles will be simple, driveshaft is simple. FWD sucks more with the EA82 geometry than EJ, so if you want any sort of pavement performance, go EJ (and AWD). Unless you're launching an inflatable boat, you'll be abusing your clutch with any Subaru manual transmission. Part of me has always liked the Ute versions of the wagons, seeing the new Smyth kits makes me actually want a GG Impreza! I have to say, if one of those ended up in my possession, the exhaust stacks would be in the scrap heap SO fast....but each to their own.

I think you'll have to be more specific. I don't think anything on a '90 Loyale has a Personal Identification Number. And what Control Unit? Engine? Cruise? Door lock? probably others...

As was said, you're looking for EA81, so there are a few options. FYI, it's not "they", just "him"