Numbchux

but SJR....those aren't 4X140, justies used 4x110 or something like that, much smaller

Well, all the things I've gotten from AA have been somewhat custom, so they took time, but even so, were very fast. and they were in touch. although just from your posts, PK, I see you're much less busy and easier to get ahold of BUT, SJR! just go to his site, online ordering....I don't know if it was a coincedince (how on earth do you spell that anyway) or not, but he had it to me in a few days!!

85Sub4WD.....I beg to differ on the Cam's, I swapped the cam case (stripped valve cover bolt) from this carbed block and my '88's block, and did extensive research first. the cams are the same. I was running with one of each for awhile, no difference. But I think the valve springs aren't quite as strong (or tend to be more worn out), which is why you get valve float a bit earlier. I've had both motors up to 7k, breifly also, the ASV's are already very blocked off, this engine is coming out of a car that I drove DD for a year....so those went early thanks torxxx....I was wondering about that SJR...this is not going to be an offroad rig I have other plans for that I don't have access to any welding/bending etc. equipment. nor do I have access to a junkyard with any EA82's (they're all rusted out!! not even worth junking!!!!), so I can't get a turbo xmember, or the turbo itself. it's just too much hassle, everything would cost money, and I'm not spending out of pocket cash on custom exhaust work when it'll probably just get an EJ in a year or 2 anyway

I'm in the process of helping a buddy of mine add a lo-boost turbo setup to his impreza.....I don't want to mess with it good point on the port and polish! I think I'll do that well, the motor's got 140k miles on it, and I bet the HG's are origional, so I think I'll replace them anyway....I've never done a leakdown test, what's involved in that? (wow I feel like a n00b again....hehe)

OK, so my loyale's motor has a blown headgasket, and needs some help, but sitting in the back of it, is the carbed EA82 out of my '85 wagon. anyway, since the carbed motor's got about half the mileage, and the loyale might have warpage/crackage, I'm going to replace all the seals, and use the carbed block, with the SPFI intake manifold/throttle body... anyway, I'm wondering what I can do to it that might yeild a little more power, I'd like it to be cheap, but how difficult the install isn't an issue, since the motor will be out anyway. I'm thinking Delta cams, but other than that, I don't think there's much I can do. any ideas? also, will an N/A spider intake bolt right up?

:slobber::slobber: :slobber::slobber::slobber: :slobber::slobber:

Good point! I'd virtually completely looked over that point! I do remember that thread.....seems to me the front strut extensions would have worked, but the engine/tranny crossmember blocks were all different...but I could be wrong

hehe, I love the color on that old motor!! did you ever get the tranny from my parents' place? I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to get down there again.....so if you want it, you're going to have to help yourself (and feel free to do so, my parents know you want, and I tore up the yard pulling the loyale out so you could get at it)

hmm....thought it was skankinpickle, maybe I just thought so because of the car's name....

actually, those are not very nobby tires, that was before his BFG's, it was all momentum at that point and I too know the feeling of the engine quitting in the middle of a deep puddle....while floating, but mine was the disty, and I was floating at first, but I have zero shift boot, as well as bad seals on the doors, so it sank pretty quick. for those that haven't seen it, here's the water line on the back seat.....the next morning oh.....and I guess I might as well post my video: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8529&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500&page=2

I love the snorkel, and I love the video.....but quite honestly, I don't think you were in deep enough for it to make a difference. I floated my car, with 4 people, and spare parts/tools/clothes for 3 more on dirtbikes, and the stock spfi intake stayed dry....and the carb keeps yours higher and dryer....

it was skankinpickle's (hence the name...), but I think he sold it to a non-board member I think as far as tire sizeand lift install goes, it's virtually the same as any EA82, 28" or 29" tires fit well

Easy john....I know it's got alot of subaru in it, I just meant that it's not even like your hatch is (or at least was) with only a tcase and custom framework/lift added, where the suspension, steering and almost all the drivetrain is subaru. this ones got some non-subaru goodies

yea, sigs have been disabled, number of threads in the site help forum about that anyway, I figured you meant it did it coasting too, but I wasn't sure look at your driveshaft and look for rub marks...

no, unless you don't like the idea of being a subaru addict only thing is.....there isn't much subaru left in that one

quite honestly, I'd find a local subaru club, there you might be able to find a used one, or a place to find a used one, aswell as help installing it. I'd go to the MNSubaru club (mostly WRX tuners....but they know their stuff), but that won't help you much

whatever it is, it's probably caused by the weight shift of decel....does it do it when your coasting? could be wheel bearing, I'd check for play in the wheels first. could also just be something hangine down that drags (either on the road, or more likely, on an axle/driveshaft) when the front end settles slightly. I bashed my exhaust a little, and it would rub on the driveshaft when engine braking....made a horrible sound

hmmm...that's late, maybe I'll have a car up and running by then....probably not

I beleive there are probably even stock LSD's that'll bolt right up with zero modification.....

??? I know the AA kit has been put on wagons and sedans alike..... I'm pretty sure EA82 is loyales and anything '85-'89 except hatches, brats and xt6's EDIT: maybe you mean that some have different spring rates and ride heights....and some have sway bars etc. but I think the mounting brackets are the same regardless

actually, true 4WD sends 100% of the power to both diffs, ALL the time AWD, where all 4 wheels are on equal traction situations, and in a straight line, sends 100% of the power to both diffs, but a true open diff can send as much as 200/0 to one end or the other (think about it, with an open diff, if one wheel is stopped, the other spins TWICE as fast, works the same for a center diff) a percentage power split is actually out of 200% here's where it get's complicated.....the AT (at least on an EA82 SR4WD) just have a clutch pack on the back of the tranny, sending 100% of the power to the front all the time, and some to the rear, almost never 100% to the rear, but never 0% either (as long as it's engaged). now you're asking.....what about that 200% thing??? some of the power is lost in the clutch pack.... the DutyC sylenoid controls how much pressure is put on this clutch pack, Andy's modification 'hotwires' the the sylenoid so that there is the maximum possible pressure on the clutch pack as possible. Mudrat's problem could have been as simple as the clutch pack being worn, so the electrical modification wasn't enough to lock it.... point: yes, it can be done......whew.....but it would require even more modification than a tcase project already would, AND you wouldn't have the gear reduction from the tranny like you would with it behind a EA D/R tranny (which you would already not have if you've got an EJ car)

oh, yep, if you get an LSD carrier from another subaru, I bet the swap would be virtually identical to what we old-gen people do all the time. check the repair manual for the write-up

my disty got swamped long before my intake got wet

I'm not exactly what you're asking, or for what car. but I do know that many newer subarus came with 4.11's and a rear LSD stock. Forester XT's I think.... the reason we don't do it to our older gen cars is the front diff is completely different, and, thus-far, there is no way to get the 4.11's in the tranny, therefore a rear 4.11 LSD is worthless that being said, I have a clutch-type EA82 rear LSD converted to 3.9 to match my tranny, and it's AWESOME in almost any condition, the only time that it gave too much slip, was when I had one rear wheel about 3 feet in the air, in a 'ditch' so I couldn't pull myself up the next hill, but I jockeyed the car and it pushed right up it....I've heard the viscous ones aren't as tight in an offroad application like that one, but might still work well for rally/iceracing

I'm not sure on the exact size of the window, but I think it's at least as big as the one on my subie... I understand the basic concept behind it, it's a heating element, more power = more heat, basically. but I wasn't sure about exactly how. Well, the next time the Chuxwagon runs, I will have rewired dang near the entire thing anyway, so I suppose I'll just make sure this get's looked at anyway