Numbchux

plus install......good luck!

beleive it or not...the camber will look more pronounced with bigger tires....and so will the lift, the fender gap will be smaller, but the whole car get's even higher off the ground, it's awesome!

you'll need a 3/16's inch punch to take out the roll pin that holds the axle to that trans....other than that, you've got it. you might need to pound the axle out of the bearings. and you might need to take the disc hub off to pull the axle back through. but you shouldn't need to touch the radius rod.

what bulbs are you running? I'm assuming, because of your screen name, that you're referring to a loyale, with single headlights (I dont think the loyales came with duals...did they?) anyway, if so, you're looking at 9004 bulbs, which are quite common, and have some aftermarket support....I'm looking at maybe getting some silverstars from target...

I assume you both weren't low on oil at the time....I wonder if that, combined with the fact that I was low did it in

HA! more proof that the camber 'issue' is not just an AA problem, but a symptom of the lift. they all have it some. it won't eat through the tires funny, just looks weird. it'll also settle a bit after driving it for awhile great to hear that thing's lifted! I agree with Shawn....it was SCREAMING 'lift me!!!!'

agreed!!! looks sweet! you weren't kidding about making that thing huge just be careful about driving it until you get things beefed up. you'd be suprised how easily suspension stuff can be bent/broken!

yep, just make sure you push in the clutch, it's just like changing any of the other gears

ya forgot the 1st 'e' in create

I tried 3 aswell.....still nothing 5hi = 5th gear hi range

well....I've essentially given up, I got a ride home and left it there, I'll go back with a trailer later yes, I took off the timing belts and the cams and oil pump spin normally, aswell as alternator, PS pump, Water pump, tensioners and idlers (both new)....(no A/C) not the starter, it already has some trouble engaging, and it did that again a couple times, I could hear it spin, then tried it again, it engaged, and would NOT turn over. I put a little extra oil in it, and left it overnight, then put on a battery charger to boost the starter a bit, hoping it would get it unstuck....also put an impact wrench on the oil pump bolt and spun that for awhile, hoping it would circulate some oil..... yea, we pulled it off the lake with a full size truck, I put it in 1lo and eased off the clutch just to see if it would help, and it locked up all 4 wheels (on snow) maybe we'll try pulling it backwards..... but at this point, I think the chuxwagon is done until my mom decides that she's done with her legacy and I'm away from school long enough to do the swap

update: I've pretty much given up, the car will be towed to my parents place, where it'll rest until summer, when I can do some serious work on it. OK, I'm up at the MNSubaru ice race event in the middle of F&*#'en nowhere northern minnesota with a basic tool set and a seized motor. I've got a small oil leak, and a non-functional oil gage and/or sender.... I was running the circle track, @ about 45 mph (155/60R13 snow tires....mmmmm) for a few laps (probably 10 minutes or so) when I start hearing the TOD, so i head in, check the oil, add a quart and a half (which brought me right up to full), start it up again, let it run for a couple minutes, the noise goes away...this has happened before. then I drive back out on the lake, get about 75-100 feet out on the first straight, and the engine dies, period. and WILL NOT turn over. I've taken off all the belts and everything spins fine except the crank... I found that my passenger side PCV hose had come off the valve cover.....could've gotten something in there also, someone was suggesting that with the oil a bit low, and me running circles in the same way for awhile, maybe I got oil starve from one side of the motor.... my options are few, and parts are virtually non-existent....so I need a ghetto fix that'll get me back to Duluth.... Anyone?? ideas???? also, I have very limited access to the internet, so if you've got ANY idea....please post it, tell me ALL the alternatives, so I can try everything...

nope, you don't need anything else. you should put wheels and tires on it (otherwise the lift is quite pointless). other than that, everything is optional I'd also look into a Dual-Range 4WD tranny, I would have a heck of a time doing what I do in my car if I was in 4Hi all the time

well...once youve got the line cut, you could slip a wrench down around it, that would get a better grip on it, otherwise, I like the vice grips idea, or a channel-lock

hehehe....that could be, but I'm telling you it wasn't so effortless in my '85 carbbed EA82 wagon.....but I did it a few times anyway

psssst.....I've got better clearance in my 4" (high clearance) lifted, with 28" tires than my buddies 6.5" lifted, with 35" tires YJ....he's got me owned in almost every other category though

my local off-road club uses http://www.myfreebulletinboard.com and are quite happy with the program, I also host a board for my family to communicate with. it's a nice system, and as the name implies, it's free! check out the north shore wheelers board here: http://myfreebulletinboard.com/f2/?mforum=northshorewheel

I've always been under the impression that the push-button trannies were weaker in the rearend than the dual ranges......although now that I think about it, I don't know why but just the fact that you say his wagon was upgraded to the hilt, probably means he was pushing more ponies through there than it was designed to hold. plus the abuse of getting the wheels to spin for burnouts and drifting (although I've done it too....hehehe), plus however many miles where on the tranny.... oh...I know what I was thinking, the full-times with the pushbutton center lock is probably not as setup for pushing all of the power out the rear output, all of the time....

fair enough....I still think it's alot harder than you make it sound especially considering how long subarubrat's been running tcased and NOT had the rear output strip out, I know he's had problems with other gears, but not the same as these. not to mention how many others of us have run in RWD.

unless you've got some attachment to your existing tranny....I'd get the EJ tranny too. I, personally, would want the diff lock/lo range (RX) of an EA tranny, mated to an EJ motor....but the EJ trannies are very nice too. I hear that EA82t axles will fit the legacy tranny stubs. you may want to grab the rear diff too, have to be sure you've got a matching ratio EA82 loyale......water pumps are EASY!

keep in mind that james is not in town. this is a different guy that appears to be less familiar with how we do things here....

I, too, wouldn't lose faith so quickly....case #1, obvious abuse....had it coming case #2....hard to say, but 'showed up some jeeps' makes me suspect abuse case #3....Adam's got an H6....definately more than it's designed for I've driven mine in RWD quite a bit, even with the larger tires, in fact, I will probably do it next summer for daily driving my car on the hills here in duluth, so I can use lo range and save my clutch some

looks sweet.....but I doubt there's much subaru left

RX has 3.7