Numbchux

I know, and that scares me even more, it's one thing if it's a brand-new aftermarket kit, intended to be installed in a hole you cut yourself (which I've seen a few that leak)....but to take an old one, out of an old car, cut a hole in your car, and put the sunroof in it....yikes!

personally, I prefer the torque curve of a larger displacement engine, than a turbo'd one....I'll be looking for an XT6 next spring, there might not be as much potential as far as peak hp, or performance, but I think for my ice racing, and RallyX 'needs' the ER27 would be preferrable

yea, if you remove the axles, and rear half of the driveshaft (everything hanging down in my pic) you can drive it in FWD

I hear that!! thus far, I've not had a skidplate at all...and I've got no carnage of that sort... closest thing was when I had my rear strut extensions cranked up to about 5", and no other diff blocks than the 1" mustache bar ones....broke a coulple rear axles that way....oops...no more problems though

well, the boys over at allied armament retrofitted a snorkel made for a jeep onto their wagon, maybe that's the one you're thinking of

more proof that a drop block on the front of the stock skidplate is bad news.

this is true, but in the rear, they can take a couple inches

yea...I've heard bad things about aftermarket sunroof installs

I hate my seatbelt, it doesn't work quite right, it locks up randomly, and seems to always get tighter....but I wear it essentially all the time the only exception is situations like saturday night...idling through a mildy rough field where the only way I could've flipped is if I'd hit a land mine....any other obsticle would've been seen and avoided....call me dumb, bu I know I was safe earlier in the night, however, we were playing in a sandpit, doin some hillclimbs, whipping some donuts...etc. I would'nt have thought about it if I hadn't had my seatbelt on!!

yep, http://www.alliedarmament.com (AA) TWB fabrications (search for board member soobme) Mudrat79

go take a peek under the rear of your car, you'll see...maybe I can find a pic... there's a roll pin on either end, simply jack up the car, pound out the pins, and slip the axle off, one end at a time. here's a pic of while I was putting in the LSD... theres a roll pin on the outer end by the cv too, it just slips off a stub very similar to the stub on the diff.

for the record....this is where he's goin: http://www.flatfenderfarms.com/index.html

I found that an LSD unit was perfect for what I wanted (for now), much better than open, but still driveable on-road, here in duluth (hills + lots of snow...) it's gonna be real nice! if you must have true 100% locked, welded is your only option....thus far....think of it as a manual locker, that takes 10mins and a few tools to lock/unlock I've been looking into this, but there are 2 pretty substantial problems with most diffs out there.... 1. size, look at the size of a diff in....well...anything else with true 4wd....it's huge by comparison 2. compatability...our stub axles are bolted into the diff carrier, which means the inside is threaded, this has not been the case in the couple units I've worked with, the axle shaft is held in at the ends, and just slips into the splines in the carrier don't get me wrong, if you find a way, more power to ya, that'd be awesome, I'm certainly trying....but there have been alot of really smart people on it, with no results so far.

You're doin it?! wow, good luck, and take lots of pictures!!

um...yea, the price is even the same. Give the guy some credit, we would've (did) noticed if it was exactly the same.

Yea, I think you'll quickly find out that fog lights under the bumper get destroyed pretty quickly and easily if you're doin any real wheelin

mildly off topic....but if you're cops are known for being sticklers on bumper height....you might want to check your laws....here, technically it's 20"

Sorry Austin....but the park's closed for deer season, opens the 21st....

same as GL/DL

Here are some pics.... I need to clean 'em up, and spray some rustoleum on them or something... here's what I did with the wires...this is just the antenna wire for the CB, but I did the same thing with the wires for the lights when I had those wired: I'm sure you could just get a generic roofrack from walmart or something that would work well with for this application another idea I had, that I'll probably use if I add more lights in the future: They make brackets for a CB antennae that are meant to mount to a roof rack, it just a nice clamp that mounts on the rack, a 90* angle to a flat piece with a hole drilled in it, would work perfect for keeping your lights up high.

welcome!! I don't think we have too many members from england...go figure... good luck with the potential new car!

if you're spending any extended period of time on-road, I'd recommend all-terrains, or all-seasons. I run all-seasons, and they tend to cake up in mude easier than I'd like them to, but it hasn't been a problem, yet. liberator all terrains from wal mart are very popular because they're quite good for the price. I run 215-75-15's on my 4" lifted EA82 with just a little bashing, no trimming, I'm sure you could fit these under a 4/3 EA81 with some trimming

nice scores! that shell is sad, is that the one you've been driving? or is it another one? I didn't think that one was in too bad of shape....

I don't even remember you selling it....hmmmm anyway, WELCOME!!!

I'll try to take a close-up pic tonight of my setup, but it's just a Yakima rack, with little flat pieces of scrap metal (happened to be filed down triangles) welded onto the ends, with a hole drilled in them (had to remove the plastic caps...which was a pain). then I bolted the lights through the hole. This was really convenient when it came time to wire them, as with the caps removed, I just pulled a wire through the bar to the other side for the far light. let's see what I can find for pics that's the only one I can find that's very good, I'll take a close-up later this afternoon