Numbchux

oh yea...forgot about the Auto....get the RX

go for it, you don't need a locked rear to do it! Yea..it'll be more capable with it....but you'll have a lot of fun without it!!

Do it! I know you've got the skills!

yea, I only know of one guy running an EA82T on a lifted car...vanislru and if you're talking about converting your car to turbo, it's alot more complicated, almost as complicated (as far as wiring is concerned) as an H6 swap....not to mention exhaust, oil, coolant lines, intake, etc.

these are all good points...but in this kind of situation....the closer your intake is to cold air, the closer it is to potentially suck water in an off-road situation

you have to jack up the rear of the car by the diff, this should allow the trailing arm to drop is your's a 3" rear lift? that might be part of it, when I put my 4" kit in initially, I could almost get the rear axle off without jacking up the car. also, because of the AA design, initially, the trailing arm doesn't want to flex downward....a little time in the orv park will fix this.

I know, and that scares me even more, it's one thing if it's a brand-new aftermarket kit, intended to be installed in a hole you cut yourself (which I've seen a few that leak)....but to take an old one, out of an old car, cut a hole in your car, and put the sunroof in it....yikes!

personally, I prefer the torque curve of a larger displacement engine, than a turbo'd one....I'll be looking for an XT6 next spring, there might not be as much potential as far as peak hp, or performance, but I think for my ice racing, and RallyX 'needs' the ER27 would be preferrable

yea, if you remove the axles, and rear half of the driveshaft (everything hanging down in my pic) you can drive it in FWD

I hear that!! thus far, I've not had a skidplate at all...and I've got no carnage of that sort... closest thing was when I had my rear strut extensions cranked up to about 5", and no other diff blocks than the 1" mustache bar ones....broke a coulple rear axles that way....oops...no more problems though

well, the boys over at allied armament retrofitted a snorkel made for a jeep onto their wagon, maybe that's the one you're thinking of

more proof that a drop block on the front of the stock skidplate is bad news.

this is true, but in the rear, they can take a couple inches

yea...I've heard bad things about aftermarket sunroof installs

I hate my seatbelt, it doesn't work quite right, it locks up randomly, and seems to always get tighter....but I wear it essentially all the time the only exception is situations like saturday night...idling through a mildy rough field where the only way I could've flipped is if I'd hit a land mine....any other obsticle would've been seen and avoided....call me dumb, bu I know I was safe earlier in the night, however, we were playing in a sandpit, doin some hillclimbs, whipping some donuts...etc. I would'nt have thought about it if I hadn't had my seatbelt on!!

yep, http://www.alliedarmament.com (AA) TWB fabrications (search for board member soobme) Mudrat79

go take a peek under the rear of your car, you'll see...maybe I can find a pic... there's a roll pin on either end, simply jack up the car, pound out the pins, and slip the axle off, one end at a time. here's a pic of while I was putting in the LSD... theres a roll pin on the outer end by the cv too, it just slips off a stub very similar to the stub on the diff.

for the record....this is where he's goin: http://www.flatfenderfarms.com/index.html

I found that an LSD unit was perfect for what I wanted (for now), much better than open, but still driveable on-road, here in duluth (hills + lots of snow...) it's gonna be real nice! if you must have true 100% locked, welded is your only option....thus far....think of it as a manual locker, that takes 10mins and a few tools to lock/unlock I've been looking into this, but there are 2 pretty substantial problems with most diffs out there.... 1. size, look at the size of a diff in....well...anything else with true 4wd....it's huge by comparison 2. compatability...our stub axles are bolted into the diff carrier, which means the inside is threaded, this has not been the case in the couple units I've worked with, the axle shaft is held in at the ends, and just slips into the splines in the carrier don't get me wrong, if you find a way, more power to ya, that'd be awesome, I'm certainly trying....but there have been alot of really smart people on it, with no results so far.

You're doin it?! wow, good luck, and take lots of pictures!!

um...yea, the price is even the same. Give the guy some credit, we would've (did) noticed if it was exactly the same.

Yea, I think you'll quickly find out that fog lights under the bumper get destroyed pretty quickly and easily if you're doin any real wheelin

mildly off topic....but if you're cops are known for being sticklers on bumper height....you might want to check your laws....here, technically it's 20"

Sorry Austin....but the park's closed for deer season, opens the 21st....

same as GL/DL