Numbchux

my pitch stopper was fine.....don't know what's up there... there's a nut on the bottom of the shift linkage, that holds it to the unibody, the hole is actually slotted, loosen the nut, let it adjust for the extra length, then tighten it again. should work much better.

+1 not to nock pkd, but AA is very fast, and in great touch, very easy to get ahold of/work with

mine was seized, couldn't feel it with it in the car, but when I pulled it out to do a clutch job, I couldn't move either joint in the rear half, I replaced it and now the noise is reduced soooo much!!

yea, that's the idea, but mine never worked (on either car) the only negative effect, seems to be the CEL

I too would like to add my $.02 about the kits. QMan is very right, it's a high maintenence vehicle now. also, it is a bolt up install. I don't have the one piece tranny xmember/leading rod blocks, I still have 6 individual blocsk which were hard enough to install. also, make sure you have them on the right side, this is just a guess, maybe it's painfully obvious, but maybe not. if they're not ligning up at all, make sure you've got 'em on right. don't fret, it's a great kit, and quite easy to install, but some cars just work better than others. my engine crossmember shifted quite a bit while I was installing it, and those blocks where a total pain!!!

check the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section here in the offroad forum for information in the future, but since I know them off the top of my head... http://www.ozified.com (heard a rumor that he's not making kits anymore...) http://www.alliedarmament.com (it may not be listed there, but they can make all sorts of stuff, big personal recommendation here!) http://www.sjrlift.com (again, maybe not listed, but he's pretty versatile, I'm getting a part from him to make my lift bigger/better!) and look for mudrat79 here on the boards, mixed opinions amongst fellow members about his business rep, but he definately does great work!!

not all d/r trannies are like that. I'm not sure of the exact cutoff, but my '88 had it on the tranny, and my '85 had it on the clutch pedal. I swapped 'em (the '85 had way fewer miles), and it works fine, just didn't plug it in. yea, my CEL is on, but all my cars have the CEL on. I'd be worried if it turned off! I'm going to try to attach the two wires, maybe that will get it to shut up.

that sounds like a blast, I love alaska, and will be going back a number of times. unfortunately, I don't know how I'd be able to pull if off while I'm still in college. however, once I'm out, I'd love to do it!

agreed, black wheels are sooooo hot!!

looks awesome guys!!!

hmmm...this is a good idea, unfortunately they're mounted on my roof rack, pretty solid mount, but nothing above to mount the top to. and they'll be pretty much off-road only lights, so there'll be lots of vibration to worry about. maybe lower wattage might make them last longer?? we'll see this weekend!

agreed!!

All EA82 Dl's came with dual headlights

gound clearance is awesome, I know I've got better than virtually any vehicle out there. but suspension travel and flex is where it's at. those few inches of clearance aren't anything to the suspension travel associated with solid axles. our BIG advantage, is the point in the middle where the t-case is on those trucks, we have virtually nothing hanging below the unibody there, I have almost 20" of clearance at the "high-center" point.

I really want to put in 4-point harnesses in my wagon. I get thrown around on the trail alot. and my gf is all for it! I'll probably buy some and see if I can make it work.

I have a pair of Hella 7" round lights in big ol' plastic cases for roof-mount. I got them from my uncle, and they're not wired at all. They're H4's with lo/high beams... 2 Q's...1. anyone know the wiring for them? I've got three contacts, and I'm not sure which is high, low, or ground. I could just try 'em, but I'd like to make sure I get it right. 2. would it be ok to run both filaments at the same time? I've got combo driving/fog lights on the front that I run both on at the same time, but they're individual bulbs, these are 2 filaments in the same bulb....would the heat be too much?

GravelRX made a removable light bar...here's a couple pics from his photo gallery. do a search for posts by him, I know he's posted exactly how he did it.

oops....I completely misread your post....yea...what shawn said

HI EARL!!!!! sorry, I just couldn't resist

no, the ones on the roof are NOT Eagle Eye II's, it's just the covers, the lights themselves are like 30w craphole 6" sealed beam lights I stole off my dad's '64 Ford plow truck, and one of 'em's burned out. but when they both worked, they were pretty sweet. the ones under the bumper are Hella optilux's (I think 2020's...), they're combination Fog/Driving lights, 2 ~50w bulbs in each light, with different diffusers, one that's short and wide, one that's long and narrow. I wired 'em with individual switches so I can turn 'em both on at the same time, I had 'em mounted with self-drilling/-tapping screws into the bumper....worked find 'til I ripped 'em out. though it wasn't a bad idea, the screws failed before the light had any damage. I bet if you mount them over the bumper, or just don't get into stuff that would hit them hard, they'd be fine that way.

well, the cv's are pressed in there. when I had an inner DOJ fail while we were camping, and had to pound the CV apart to get home without vibration, that when functioning properly, they're hard to get apart. but run some muddy/sandy water through there, they come apart real easy! it's probably just different degrees of failure, one came apart pretty easy, the other isn't. and the time I had to break one apart at our campsite, the retaining ring broke off before anything else.

I paid $150 to my door for 5, 4 with tires....

you are adjusting your mileage for the bigger tires aren't you??? mines almost exactly 20% short...that would explain part of it.

20....22 on a good, cool, dry day I'm hard on 'er

that is sad...but an old picture...any progress on the new creation?