Numbchux

hmmm..I don't have 'em on anything else, but I have extra stickers...and a laptop....and a bass case...and a cello case...and.....hmmmm

This is before I took off my swaybar, so all of my articulation is in the back!

may want to take off that bodykit, it's too hot to have torn off by a big bump!

are these 'new' radiators? or junkyard ones?

??? nothing get's replaced when drilling out your hubs, you just add a couple studs to each corner....

the tires in the picture are 195/60/r15's, they are what baccaruda had on them on his wagon: neither car is lifted, his is now lowered and on 5-lug wheels, and mine was on adjustables, but not adjusted down (lowest position) only problem I found was when I tried to take a load home from college, up the hill out of duluth (called little san fran for a reason!) the wider wheels rubbed on my fenders and the rear tires got hacked to hell. so if you do this, roll your fenders (the tops), or beat them, or get accord springs, or just don't carry 5-600lbs of stuff in the car while climbing large hills at freeway speeds... as for identifying the wheels, they have 'em stamped on them somewhere, otherwise, if they have tires, just look at the tire size, if the last number is 14 or 15...your good!

if they're the ones in your gallery...than they look awesome...but I don't see anything in this post

well, I haven't had any personal experience with 6-lugs. but I know someone who converted his wagon to 6 lug (he didn't drill out the wheels...btw), and used the subaru lug nuts while marking the holes for the other 4 studs. and now a couple of his wheels aren't centered (just on the rear drums, and I think he was going to convert to discs....so it may be fixed). These were also nice toyota alloys, so the lug nuts had big centering washers....(I'd recommend converting your hubs to 6-lug, not the other way around) The adjustable struts are great. but it will be much harder on your CV's, I'm not sure how much you've been following my AA lift...but I've eaten a number of CV joints in the last few months, and the front end design is very similar to the BYB kit, so I blame it primarily on my adjusted struts. and...I don't know anything about brats.....hope someone else chimes in for that!

Well, unless you convert to something more common (read: redrilling 6-lug steelies to 4-lug, or an entire 5-lug conversion), just what samo said. Allied Armament (pricey + shipping) or Pugs (more affordable, but rare, and usually + shipping) here are my 15" Pug alloys on my '85 GL (essentially a loyale, but with more options) with no lift. I'm not sure what you mean by metric tire sizes, stock GL/Loyales came with 185/75/r13's which is a metric size, but the only reason they're hard to find is the fact that the 13" rim size is rare. my lifted rig uses 215/75/r15 tires. I've never seen a tire shorter than 30" that wasn't metric. The only metric nightmare you could run into, is if you get the pug rims that are 390mm in diameter!

yea, you'll have to drive differently, but you should be some anyway with a lifted rig...

just my $.02, I have a high-clearance EA82 lift, I got away with fitting 215/75/r15 tires with only some bashing, but I still rub quite a bit in the front while turning. You'll probably need to do some trimming.

awesome work! I love your wagon!

yea...but in an EA series tranny??? I'd do this if I could do it AND D/R...

Well, I can't tell you much, but I can tell you this: All EJ series trannies, will bolt up to Any EJ series engine. beyond that, things can be different. if you swap in the engine that comes with your tranny, you may have a different final drive ratio, in which case, you'll need the rear diff too. I don't know about physical tranny dimensions, or stub axle connections etc. I'd say, for simplicity, use the tranny in the car (if it's good...) if you've got the ECU that goes with the motor, then it's definately possible! just gotta wire it all up, and find a place to put it!

Take 'er off!! it's overrated.

this was driving me nuts, so I ran out and looked at my car (it's almost 3am). and he's right (or we're both wrong)... I had a hell of a time getting the tie rod ends out of the '85 when I stripped it, good thing I wasn't trying to save 'em, so I just beat the crap out of 'em. maybe put the nut on it, crank it down a bunch, drive it around for awhile, then retorque 'em.

agreed on tires sway bars are overrated, take it off! and learn to drive the RX hard, and the lifted rig...easy welded, lsd, open....unless you're getting really hardcore, just learn to pic your line well, and you'll be fine. if you're getting into soft stuff, an lsd would be nice. if you're on rocks where you'll be frequently lifting 2 wheels, welded's the answer. wheels, I agree with singletrack, my point was, there's nothing wrong with 15s, but if you're only going with a 26" tire, than 14s are probably the better answer. my 28s are perfect on 15s, but lots of pounding was required, and they still rub like mad.

I'm very aware of the JCW selection, but those I don't want to get some high pitched craphole...any idea what model they where? I'll probably be getting some from them this fall...

specs are in my sig...

Well, I just happened to have a good picture just for this topic! THAT is the rear end out of my '85 GL wagon. See the diff in the middle? on either side of the diff is an axle. as zefy said, with 2 rubber boots on either end of one axle (making 4 boots for the rear end too). This is an independent suspension setup, as in the diff stays mounted tight to the body, and either wheel moves up and down independant of that, making for 2 places that the axle needs to flex between there. A Solid Axle design means that the diff, axle, and hubs/brakes all move as one, usually with leaf springs. most commonly used in full size pickups. The importance of this, is that you cannot change the angles on those axles much (especially in front) without severly shortening their life! which means you have to do a body lift. This isn't bad, because the only thing in the middle that get's dropped down is the driveshaft and exhaust (which can be fixed, if you know how), so lifted, on stock tires, you're still not too bad off. THEN you put on big tires, and you're set. Example, my GL stock wasn't too great, then I added a 4 inch lift kit, which made it better, but the drivetrain was still left at essentially stock height, then I added tires that were a total of 6" higher in diameter (only half of that actually raises the car) so 3" higher over all. That means that the bumpers came up a total of 7" total! here's a broken rear axle: another pic for comparison, stock tires on the front, and 28's on the back! see the height difference, and I never would've gotten those tires on the unlifted car. here's a pic of my rearend after the lift, notice the axle angle, this is the absolute farthest that you can increase these angles. I tried going a little higher and broke 2 rear axles (one being the one pictured above...) and one more. I'm no stranger to the RWD wagon...

agreed! I always have bad luck in ruts!! nice work noah! looks like fun.

where'd you get those? how much? I want to get some aftermarket horns, but I know a couple people who have and they got loud, but still high and irritating. I want something low and mean!

We don't have a name for them in the US, just GLs and DLs depending on their trim.. I will be using the LSD from a turbo car (probably F/T) in my rig starting this year. I like going out for short runs and don't want to be pulling an axle every time. If you go out for a long time, you should look into doing a welded spool, and then pulling a rear axle before/after wheeling. (just noticed your other post...if this isn't street legal anyway, DEFINATELY go with a welded rear end!) broken 2 tranny's??? in subies?? dang! Are you sure it's not a front axle? if you blow a front axle you loose front Wheel Drive (and it makes some horrible sounds if you try) but locking the transfer case into 4WD it sends the power to the rear (very fun in a wagon!) no driveshaft extensions needed, this is essentially a body lift, which drops the tranny, diff and everything, keeping very stockish angles.

I would think this is the way to do it...since they have to come out anyway

I wouldn't worry about wheel size, you could run 20's if you want, as long as the outside diameter of your TIRES isn't over 28/29"...though I wouldn't recomend that as that wouldn't get you very tall sidewalls, the point is that I wouldn't worry about it. if you'd like to run 16 or 17" 6-lug wheels, go for it, but I wouldn't recommend getting tires that are taller than 28"...especially on a carbed motor, until you get a weber, or SPFI (if you're that brave).