Numbchux

Pads in backwards? What kind of pads and rotors did you use?

I'm sure it's been done hundreds of times. There are universal usb ports all over the internet. I bought some simple ones on ebay 10 years ago and installed them in my Celica. I tapped into the power for the cigarette lighter, and cut new holes in the stereo surround to mount them.

Any 5-speed manual from 2000 or newer will have the housing you need. A WRX has different transfer gears, so it might be best to avoid those in case you need those. Here's the parts diagram of the rear cover. You definitely broke the cover, callout number 32130, might have damaged the bearings or shafts inside there. Disconnect the shift linkage, remove 9(?) bolts, remove housing. Transfer bearings and shafts from old to new, apply sealant, reinstall bolts, reinstall shift linkage. Could have replaced just the ujoint probably 6 months ago. But it likely chewed threw the end caps and into the yoke since then, not to mention the damage done when it broke. This one just had a vibration. This one is too far gone for a good repair 20180105_185438 by Numbchux, on Flickr Here's a yoke after a joint failure.... 20190602_191605 by Numbchux, on Flickr It maybe could be botched together. But for the $50-100 for a used shaft, I wouldn't mess with it. www.car-part.com is a great resource for used parts. Frequently they will list transmission cores on there, which might be a cheap way to get your housing.

Looks like a manual. So no, can't drive it without the shaft. Completely fixable. extension housing can be replaced in the car. Buy a donor transmission (can even be blown up) for $100 or less and a "new" driveshaft, spend a few hours crawling around in gear oil, and it'll be fixed. I definitely would, but I just put a brand-new rear subframe in a rusty '00 Outback with 325k miles on it, so I might not be the best person to ask.

Vibration under load is textbook Ujoint, I see no reason to question that diagnosis. Driveshaft ujoints can fail, and they can fail catastrophically. Replacement joints are about $30, and a decent pain to install. But if it's left too long, and chews through the cap and into the yoke, you're looking at a new yoke, and shaft balancing, or replacing the whole shaft. The vibrations are transmitted right into the differential/transmission, which is not good for the bearings inside them. If it breaks entirely, it can destroy exhaust components, shift linkages, and I've even seen them break off a chunk from the rear of the transmission. Here's my saga on diagnosing and replacing them myself: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/

Don't hold your breath....it's been a nasty one.

My money is on front ujoint in the driveshaft. Slipping clutch feeling is the center VLSD trying to send power to the front. Gear oil will leak out if the slip yoke has fallen out of the transmission (or if the damage is bad enough, it can damage the rear transmission housing). It can damage the shift linkage.

Don't need a different master, just an M10 union.

Yep, if that's the only code, you likely need the sensor. 2-wire sensor, aftermarket listings usually have the one for the gauge listed as a "switch" and for the ECU as a "sensor", but that can vary.

Completely normal. You can waste electricity to warm just the transmission (when everything else will still be cold), you can waste gas to idle the car for a few minutes to warm everything up before you drive, or you can keep it below about 50 to let things warm up while moving (your gas mileage takes a hit much above that anyway).

Anything 2005 or newer (since you didn't bother to tell us what car you drive....) will disable the cruise control with any check engine code. This is not a cruise control fault.

Yep, flange is welded on. An exhaust shop could probably fix it quick and cheap.

No bleeding required, this can be done in about 3 minutes with just a pliers. It's in the rubber vacuum hose between the engine and brake booster (if you need more info, google some of those terms and all your questions are answered, this stuff is used on all gas engines with vacuum boosters). Those sound like the right plugs. Are they fairly new?

Brake problem is a frozen check valve in the booster line. I've had it happen on most of my cars, and have had good luck cleaning it. Pull it off from the booster, and squirt some MAF or Carb cleaner in there, let it sit for a minute and then start the engine, and spray some more through there with the engine running. "Correct" fix is to replace that booster hose. As for your misfire. I'd throw a set of NGK Copper plugs at it, their cheap and easy for that engine...

Phase 2 ECU will not easily control a Phase 1 engine. I've heard of people diy adapter plates to put the Phase 2 intake manifold on a Phase 1 engine, then you have all the matching sensors. But it's not a great option.

Huge amount of work, and will cost a small fortune. But all doable. Mechanically, pretty straightforward. All bolt-in with the right combination of parts. You'll be tearing the car down basically to a shell, but with some organization and patience, just a matter of bolting the new parts in place. Obviously the engine and transmission have to come out, but the entire dash, as well. It will be a big paperweight for months, possibly years. EJ207 is a turbo engine, considered one of, if not the, stoutest (Vermont Sportscar uses only EJ207s in the Subaru Rally Team USA cars). The smaller displacement means they rely more on the turbo for power, which means less power in the lower rpms. But a tune and turbo sizing will help get the results you want. It was never available in the USA, we got the larger EJ257 here. The 207 was made for ~20 years (I think it was exactly 1999-2019), so even with that specific engine code, there are a myriad of details that surround the swap. The easiest and cheapest way for a novice to do this job, is to get a complete donor (half cut from Japan), so you have all the parts that you know all work together. Sometime around 2005, these cars would have gotten an immobilizer, which will make it considerably more difficult to get the stock ECU to run it (assuming you use the stock ECU, a standalone would yield some better results, but bigger hurtles to get there). EJ207s were only in Imprezas, which never got the rear suspension that's in your Outback, brakes will bolt right up to the Outback suspension, axles get a little ugly if you want to use an r180 rear diff instead of the standard r160, but still doable. The vast majority of EJ207s will come with a 6-speed transmission, which is a much better transmission but will add several thousand dollars to the purchase price. I think all 207s were mated with the r180 rear diff. This is all assuming you stick with the EJ207. Almost any engine made by Subaru in the last 30 years can be used in there with the right combination of parts. Turbo 4 cylinders, as well as several 6-cylinders. These projects have been done hundreds of times in BE/BH Outbacks, and probably tens-of-thousands of times in other Subarus. Anything turbo will require a turbo engine crossmember. None of these options will effect your tie rod ends. If you need them, replace them. Depending on the condition of your CV axles and timeline for this project, I might not wait on those. The manual swap isn't too bad, but if you're serious about the engine swap, you'll save yourself a lot of headache to swap the manual pedal box in when the dash is out.

I remember discussion about that. I used aftermarket Beck/Arnley clutch kits designed for the XT6 (different part number than EA82) on unmodified EA82 flywheels 3 times with great results.

AFAIK, the only difference was clamping force on the pressure plate. And most aftermarket companies have superseded them to the same replacement.

No reputable strut company makes quick struts for Subarus. There are some no-names (SenSen comes to mind...). But for the same price, you could get some KYB struts and rent a spring compressor.

I cut holes in the top of the transmission tunnel just like on the EJ car, but the driveshaft rubbed on them under hard acceleration (it was a one-piece shaft, so that could have been part of it). If I were to do it again, I would just have them run straight through the bulkhead under the rear seat, as there's a lot more room for them.

It's the cables you are having trouble with? I used cables and a handle from a first gen Legacy with rear disc, and was able to get it to work decently. Front-pull handle and cables will definitely not reach.

Not sure what to tell you about the column tilt.... Turn signal noise maker is just the flasher relay, just like the older cars. Pretty unlikely that it would be clicking on and off without your lights actually flashing. Most likely something else. Driveshaft is not a 2 piece like the older ones. No flange and Ujoint in the middle, just a DOJ like a CV axle and Ujoints on either end. I'd start by checking the rear ujoint and rear diff bushings.

I saw that once, as well, but it had had the rear diff out of it recently, and the guy didn't know to engage them all the way. Haven't seen it on a car that hadn't it been removed. With a wood block on the edge of the cup, you can put enough of a whack on it to engage it into the diff without damaging the boot.

I've known people to misdiagnose a CV axle as clutch failure (as the VLSDs transfer some power to the other wheels).

I'm aware, it's an example. You said the keyless module controls the dome light on the 01, I happen to know that the keyless module works very differently on my '00 and '04 (The dome light on the '00 does not delay off, where it does on the '04). My point is, retrofitting the components from the newer system is not a small job (will likely require swapping bulkhead harnesses and many control modules).