Numbchux

I don't know the volume, and I won't help you put snake oil in your system. Don't do it. Fix it right, or keep topping it off. A couple ounces in a year is not worth causing more damage by pouring syrup in there.

Ujoints are almost always worse under load. But I wouldn't hesitate to drop the shaft and feel them. Hardest part of the job is getting the car up high enough to get under there (I usually drive one end up on ramps, and then jack/stand the other end). Does it get worse the longer you drive it? I've had a sticking caliper slide cause a vibration at speed once that brake gets hot. Also check all suspension bushings. What axles were used? I've experienced many an aftermarket CV axle cause a vibration.

Huh? Something was changed, and something changed, so they clearly can't be related? What kind of tires were put on? Are they all the exact same? When I was at the dealership, we bought a 4.11 Subaru diff from a junkyard for a customer car, and it ended up being wrong (I think it was like a 2010 Legacy MT that used different axle splines). He said they usually throw away the common 4.11 diffs, and it wasn't worth the cost to ship it back to him. I still have it...just in case.... What I'm saying is. A. It's very unlikely that it's your problem unless the fluid has leaked out B. You should be able to get one cheap. Don't look on ebay, as shipping will kill you. www.Car-part.com and you can find one at a local yard for much cheaper.

WJM (RIP) wrote a fantastic article for SubieSport Magazine 10+ years ago about his RX, running the EA82t on MS+EDIS. Look for some of his old posts, he was doing some serious work and a lot of documentation.

I'm sure I'll be in town in August for Ojibwe Forests Rally.

Sounds like from Tire Rack? We ordered snow tire sets from them fairly regularly when I worked at the dealer. It's a chunk of change, but it's really convenient to receive them ready to bolt onto the car.

Other hole is a stud, with a nut on it. not a pin

I don't know the Forester trim and options at all, but they started trickling rear LSD in with cold weather package outbacks about that time... www.Cars101.com will have detailed standard/options lists that will tell you if yours is likely to have the rear LSD.

Plug an OBD reader in and read the coolant temperature, and compare it to an infrared temp scanner pointed at the coolant bridge (if you don't have these tools, combined investment of $20-30 on amazon and invaluable diagnostic tools). If they agree, that's not your problem. Then connect the test mode connectors to make sure the circuit operates as it should. A/C will warrant fan operation, and defrost engages A/C. Depending on the conditions, it's not improbable that the engine really is warm enough to warrant low speed fan operation.

Which ones were that? Not in the last 40 years. I know of plenty of people running 8-bolt transmissions with 4-bolt engines that leave the lower starter bolt out....but you couldn't pay me to do that on a car I had to rely on.

I ASSume 2.5, CVT? Does it go into Park (engage parking prawl)? What fluid did you use, and did you put it in the right place (fill plug on the side)? I know these can be a bear to get all the air out (best done level, warm and running, which is hard to do without a hoist), but I wouldn't think an air pocket would default to drive.

You've got a bad connection somewhere. I've seen it a few times. My XT6 was a loose bolt between battery cable and terminal, Loyale was a melted connector at the ignition switch, old Legacy someone didn't put the main ground wire back on when replacing the starter. Check the main battery cables (positive to the starter, ground to the starter bolt). Make sure they're in good condition. Wiggle them around and see if they feel too soft or too hard (I've seen moisture get inside the insulation and corrode the copper from the inside). If those look good, you can buy a high-amp relay, and install it between the battery and starter solenoid to isolate any issue with the ignition switch/wiring/connectors inside the car.

Subaru automatics (there are some premium models with VTD AWD that are different, but definitely not yours) are VERY front wheel biased. Drive to the rear has a noticeable delay, and as the clutches that drive them get worn it gets worse (my XT6 requires considerable front wheel spin to get the rear to engage at all.....not ideal). Manual transmissions use a much simpler AWD that sends the power to both ends equally and has a viscous LSD to prevent slip. The Forester might have a rear LSD, whereas the Legacy definitely didn't, but that'll be a pretty small difference. So it's not a Legacy v Forester thing, it's the transmission type.

PCV hose. If it leaks, you get a post-MAF air leak, which will cause running issues. You can replace it with generic hose, but be sure it is PCV rated (oil and vacuum resistant. coolant hose will break down and become gummy).

It's possible the worn brushes on the motor were knocked clean as you replaced it (for the first month or so of driving my winter beater Outback this year, I had to smack the blower with my snow brush to get it to start working in the morning), just like smacking a bad starter. Or, your problem is actually a bad contact somewhere that you jostled when replacing, and it'll return...

I haven't been doing harnesses for many years....not worth the time. SJR still lists it on his site: https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/engine-swap/products/wiring-harness-thinout-ej-swap

Grain of salt: my expertise is with EA82s, but off the top of my head I think EA81 is the same or similar....but I could be wrong. You can hook the EJ temp sensor to the Brat gauge and it will read low, but still usable (you sort of have to mentally re calibrate what normal is...). You can use a resistor to fix that reading (details in the writeup). EA sensor uses larger threads than the EJ, so can't use that, and I don't think there's enough material to drill/tap to the larger size. Also there are universal sensor housings out there that fit inline with a radiator hose. If you go aftermarket (digital or analog), you can reuse that wire in the EJ harness for a clean installation. Tach is just a matter of hooking up the correct wire from the EJ ECU to the Brat gauge. Speedometer is mechanical. I know that an EA82 cable will work with an EJ transmission. People have swapped EA82 and EJ transmissions into EA81s many times, and I don't recall any discussion of any difficulty with cables there....

Very little will be identical. Phase 1 vs 2 engine/transmission. Different body style. Brakes are the same. Front struts, knuckles, control arms, axles will be similar (I think there's a difference in ABS sensor). Driveshaft will be the same if it's the same style transmission. Exhaust will be similar. Fuel pump is different. The BE/BHs don't seem to be plagued with filler neck issues. But the '00-'01 ones are susceptible to rear subframe rust. I just replaced that on my '00 330k mile OBK, and the filler neck looked great.

It only takes a few drops of oil to leave a residue in the reservoir, so don't panic yet. I would remove and clean out the reservoir, and keep an eye on it. Check it when the system is cold so the level is at it's lowest. The time to worry is when you have coolant in the oil, temperature creeping, or running issues. Even coolant consumption on these engines is usually just intake manifold gaskets.

I agree that it wasn't the right bolt.

Outskirts of Duluth

96 and 99 Legacy/Outback is the same body style. Everything can be used on your '96s. I wouldn't throw that away if you're trying to keep those '96s going. '01 won't help you much. Some mechanical stuff, but that's it.

Put a stereo and a poorly-installed subwoofer box in it like the other kids and call it a day. If you're only sort-of broke, get some tires better suited to your needs/wants (all-terrain, or high performance). There are some simple brake swaps from slightly newer Subarus that can usually be procured for cheapish (although usually require larger wheels and therefore new tires).

Hello, fellow Minnesotan!

Here's the factory service manual: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2004/2004 USDM/. Go into the Transmission section. On page 37 of the Control systems file is a picture of the roll pin (this section is about removing the entire shift linkage, so most of the rest is not terribly helpful). Then in the Manual transmission file, page 43 is for the Transfer case and extension case removal. You only need to remove the extension case, so there's a lot more there than you need, but it's kind of useful. It talks about correctly shimming those bearings, but I wouldn't worry about that, I'd just transfer the shims from the old case into the new. The next section about the transfer drive gear is useful, as you'll have to transfer that from your old housing to new (just 4 bolts...). Here's the parts breakdown for the shift linkage: You'll have to remove the springpin marked 35083, and then slide that ujoint (35046) off the shaft on the transmission. You'll also have to separate the support rod from the transmission, probably easiest by removing the 3 bolts that hold 35033 bracket to the housing.