Numbchux

The wire to the charge light must be connected through that bulb (or a comparable resistor) to a switched power source to excite the alternator.

EA81 Hatches and Brats were still sold here in the US through 87, both with GL and DL trim levels. That's a common problem when getting parts for 85-87 models in the US, as many listings are not clear about which chassis is which.

EA81 or EA82? FWD? 4WD? I can certainly help. I work in a dealership parts department, and I have paper catalogs back to the '70s at home. Give me some information

That's in response to "CVT (no other option, correct)?" Ascent is only available with a CVT. They seem to have an issue warping front rotors. The '24s got an extra brace between the 2 caliper mounting bolts that is supposed to help with that, we've retrofitted a few cars under warranty. As with all FBs, especially the turbo ones. Remove the oil cap and shine a flashlight down in the timing cover. If there's sludge, or the aluminum is stained brown, then oil changes have been neglected. Walk away. You'll be chasing cam actuator problems, these usually end in removing the cam carriers and cleaning out the filters in the high pressure oil ports for said variable valve timing, sometimes it shorts the actuators which fries the ECU. Still far more reliable than the Hyundai.

Those should both be phase 2 ver 1, which means it's possible they would sort of work. But they definitely have different ratios. You would likely need the rear diff. And the shift points wouldn't be correct. Probably fine for a daily driver (I used a JDM WRX trans in a '95 Impreza once....it was OK), but pretty disappointing to drive spiritedly.

All EJ oil pumps are interchangeable. Grab a 9 or 10mm one and slap it on there (decent chance it has 7mm on it). Engine code stamp under the alternator will tell the displacement. Then identify if it's SOHC or DOHC. VVTi or not, etc. If it's a 2.5, parts are easy. The only difference is where the brake booster fitting is on the intake manifold (but if the installer was smart, they used the US manifold, so non issue). 2.0 is a little tougher. Have to use 2.0 WRX head gaskets. Pistons and valves will be unique, but pretty rare to need those.

I mean, the top 5 are all 22Bs (425 made worldwide in 1998, zero brought to the US). 17 of the next 19 are S209s (209 made for 2019, all delivered in the US). The top of the normal production cars are low mileage STis for 60kish. These were 35k cars new, 20 years ago. So double for the best of the best handful of examples sound about right. BAT is very high demand right now, and commands some serious money for clean examples of almost anything. I mean, here's a 1978 Brat that sold for $46k...

I have never seen a printed thing from Subaru saying what is and is not acceptable. But if the circumference of the tire differs even a little bit, it can change the rpms of the hub fairly substantially. And since circumference is effected 6.28x the tread depth difference, it's pretty important. And since it is exponential, technically a tread depth variation is not accurate, as 1/32 of variance on a 195/75r13 will have a much larger affect than on a 245/50r20. 2 different model tires, made to the same "size" can have a decent variation in circumference, so bad juju to mix and match. Even within the same manufacturer. I've worked at 2 Subaru dealerships over the years, the first would shoot for 2/32, and the current one within 1/32. I will be shaving a brand new tire this afternoon for a customer who had a flat. That is all the official answer. That is correct practice to ensure zero extra wear on your differentials. Anything more than that WILL cause wear, but it's incremental. And will depend heavily on AWD type (01 H6 could be MPT or VTD) and typical usage. Up to you to decide if you're willing to accept a bit. A small difference might make your transfer clutches wear out a few thousand miles earlier than they would have anyway. If you buy a Forester MT that's been lowered and has Impreza-sized tires on it, and get a flat and put the Forester spare on it. You will make it about 45 miles before the rear diff (even though it's not an LSD) catches fire. Ask me how I know.....

Alternator In my years at Subaru dealerships, I can't remember the last time I've seen a fuel pump fail. There was a recall on them a few years ago. Sometimes we replace the whole assembly, but even that is usually due to rodent damage. Alternators aren't exactly common either, but it happens. Out of curiousity...I have a 2015 Outback VIN in my catalog right now. I have 2 alternators here, and there are 53 in the warehouses nationwide. I have zero fuel pumps or pump assemblies, and there are 4 assemblies in the warehouses nationwide. Now, that doesn't take into account fitment (if that part number for alternator fits a lot more cars than the fuel pump).

Those will have a sunroof. I don't believe it'll fit.

Looks like 00-04 Legacy/obk wagon w/o sunroof. I found this old listing for a w/sunroof version, which looks almost identical except the bump in the middle section isn't quite as tall (which would make sense as the sunroof headliner is lower). https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/sold-subaru-outback-limited-2000-2004-dog-gate-compartment-barrier.527261/ PS, Subaru calls them a Dog Guard

I do buy auto parts on Amazon sometimes. But I never look it up there. I usually start with an OEM number (VIN specific catalogs for many makes on www.partsouq.com), interchange and double-check on rockauto. There are a lot of counterfeit parts on Amazon and eBay, so be very wary of that. If you care what brand you're getting, don't go there. Spark plugs and filters are the worst. Also. OEM filters list for $9.58 from Subaru.

It provides a mount for the A/C belt cover. EDIT, here's a picture that shows it. Under one of the A/C compressor bolts

By VIN, your car uses the 040. 100 is for the 3.0 and 07-09 253 (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). Destination code U5 is for California, even though it's a 253.

My thought exactly, yes.

Moosens described checking if the cam timing is correct My bet is that the crank and LH cam sprockets are incorrect. Pull the covers and check the crank sprockets (can be done without removing the timing belt) between the 2 engines. But yea, swap the manifold gaskets for the correct ones. Pull trouble codes before taking stuff apart.

Yea, I've heard of people filing grooves out of the cage/basket. But that typically locks the clutches on or off. The bang suggests to me that the clutches are working, but something is moving when they engage. I would closely inspect all rubber bushings/mounts before considering tearing into the transmission. It could also be worn clutches not engaging when they should. Or both....

Likely need to swap the crank and LH cam sprocket from the old engine. The tone wheels for the crank and cam sensors are part of those sprockets, and there are a couple different patterns.

Flashing CEL is an active misfire. You can't just clear it, you have to repair the fault first.

I'm not aware of a write-up. All FAs and FBs will be largely similar. Newer ones have direct injection (mechanical fuel pump) and electronic thermostat that you don't have to worry about. Engine out, for sure. Timing cover/chains off. Valve covers, cam carriers and then heads off. We see a ton of leaking upper oil pans and oil level switches (might not apply if it's a Forester), so I would recommend pulling that all and resealing it while the engine is out. There are a bunch of Orings and such, but most of the job is FIPG. Using it correctly and adequately is crucial to a successful repair, too much and you clog your oil passages, not enough and it leaks more than it did before. I've seen trained, but new, Subaru technicians need a couple tries to get the timing cover to seal completely.

Recalls are only for life threatening conditions. Even warranty extensions and class action lawsuits expire. The fix is tighter piston rings. Replacing piston rings in a mechanical shop is costly and time consuming, makes more sense to just swap it for an updated shortblock. Either way, tighter rings will reduce fuel mileage. If you know a GOOD mechanic (not a guy who worked on a Chevy once) who will give you a screaming deal on his time, the engine can be rebuilt. Probably $800ish in parts from your local dealership, but a LOT of labor. Or $3k in parts from the dealer for a shortblock and gaskets, and then only a bunch of labor (and still skilled labor. Cam carrier and timing chains will leak the first few times a person does them). I've heard of people retrofitting used engines from slightly newer cars with a few minor modifications. Might be worth looking into. But consult with the shop you're likely to use, as that can be a can of worms that leads to endless headaches for everybody, so they might not want to touch it. Or, just live with it. My mom bought a 2012 Impreza years ago with about 20k miles on it, but a salvage title (no warranty, even extensions. Only recalls). She drove it for about 200k miles before the CVT failed. She had to add a quart or more between every single oil change. We would buy a case of 0w-20, and always keep a quart in the trunk, and tuck a small funnel and rag into the engine bay next to the battery. Learn the difference between oil level and oil pressure warning lights. Oil level warning doesn't mean stop right now, you can wait until the next fuel stop. Oil consumption is a symptom of looser tolerances and lighter oils, which all manufacturers are using to try to meet the demand for fuel economy. This is not uncommon. And complexity of repair is definitely universal on modern cars.

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Probably transfer clutches. Get them new, and fix it. You don't have to pull the transmission, and a used trans is likely to also have worn clutches. Also inspect all rear suspension and diff bushings. AWD could be engaging normally, but a bushing is clunking when it's loaded.

The painted bumper looks great