Numbchux

I don't know what I think, on one hand he butchered a perfectly good car, but on the other, I can see myself doing that. COOL!!!

Well, I was at my local Holiday Stationstore this morning getting some cool caffeine for my afternoon of replacing the front struts on my dad's caravan when I decided to try some sea foam and some carb cleaner. and it helped alot, it still goes off occasionally but not nearly as bad. I'm heading up to our lake cabin in Alexandria later this week and there's a good junkyard up there so I will be putting a Y-pipe on the list of things to look for. So maybe NEXT week some time morgan, though I think I can handle a Y-pipe swap, thanks anyway for the offer. -Chux

I will try a new Y-pipe, but like I said, the backfiring has only been a problem for about a week now, and the exhaust has been in this condition for almost two months!!

Deal, I'll call you on Monday or Tuesday.

well, the ASV's are very much disabled, and it's better, but still not cured. I think that was just a "treat the symptom" fix, I'd rather get the unburned fuel out of the exhaust than just make less air for it to burn. Anyway, could it be just the extreme lack of backpressure? I knew Carbed motors ran better with backpressure (not like putting a coffee can on your honda) but I didn't think they'd try to blow themselves to bits. Also, my exhaust has been in this condition for more than a month now, and the backfiring was VERY rare until the beginning of this week (about the time I swamped it the last time , hmmmm...). Any other ideas?!? thanks for all the help -Chux

maybe I'll just stick with plugging the hoses. Usually when I use a hammer to try to fix something, more things end up broken -Chux

Aug. 21-22 is the only one there that I can make it to, and I REALLY want to go!

well, I checked the timing this morning, it was just shy of 10* (is there a way to put in a degree sign), so I adjusted it back to almost right on 8* and it seemed the same just for the around the block test drive (except for a bit more low end torque, nice) but this evening I went to a friends house and I think it was better, but maybe it was just a coincidence. I don't know, I'll check out the asv if I have time in the morn. Morgan, I'm pretty busy this weekend, but have nothing next week, when are you available (assuming I don't figure it out by then)? I'll give you a call and we'll see what we can find out.

At first I thought it was kind of funny, but now that my exhaust has broken off after the Y-pipe, and the backfires have started coming between every shift it's getting kind of old (like having a gun go off in the passenger seat with every shift). And I think my mileage is suffering as well. I was suspecting a vacuum leak before, could this be related? if so, where should I start in that nest of vacuum lines? if not, WHAT IS IT? I'd like to make this thing run better so any info/experience before I start taring into stuff would be much appreciated! -Chux

all i needed, thanks! For future reference, it's the front springs from an 86-89 accord that fit on the back of the subie. -Chux

I'm sure there are TONS of posts about this, but I kept running in circles with the search engine so just answer me this, what exaclty am I looking for? Front springs off an accord will raise the back end of my wagon, that's all I know so any more info would be welcome! -Chux

uh....oops , how about twice that? well, I'm alive aren't I? and my subi's in one piece

count me in!

one USMB decal, and one 8" white 4WD decal please would like to pay by mail so please PM your address thanks -Chux

from a friend, just passing it along i am currently in the market for a decent set of coilovers. i have been on ebay and all i see is 2.5 rs and wrx springs. some of the 2.5rs one are labelled as "95-01 impreza 2.5rs". my question is will these springs work on my 95 LX. there are also some on there that say "97-01 on impreza 2.5rs wrx" thanks for any and all advice

also, won't putting 25-26" tires on stock suspension hit my wheel well alot?

sounds great, so one more question, wheres the best place to look for pugs? I haven't looked at all, but would assume that a junkyard would be my best bet, am I right? thanks so much!

ok, but how hard is it to do the 3AT -> 5spd conversion? and, if an actual lift isn't the way to go, How would you recommend getting a few more inches of ground clearance. Would just bigger tires get me what I want? Would the restricted suspension travel be worth it? What's the answer here?

Here's the deal, I have a '92 Loyale 3AT FWD in solid Mechanical Condition, and an '85 GL 5spd D/R with some nasty rust issues (frame collapsing, almost no safe place to put jack stands anymore without risk of punching holes) and some engine problems (25 mpg max, almost no power, suspected vacuum leak). Should I put the 5spd D/R tranny and drivetrain/suspension under the Loyale and TBI motor? Or just fix the vacuum leak and drive the GL into the ground and sell the loyale? and if I do make these two good cars into one sweet car and one pile o' parts, should I lift it? I don't need/want much, but I have bottomed out a couple times and would like to have a bit more clearance, I'm thinking the BYB 3" and some larger tires on stock rims, is it worth it? or is there an easier/more sensible way to get a couple more inches of clearance? What do yall think?

I second that Also, this might be different on the EA81's but I don't remember the Haynes manual seperating them, the sending unit on my EA82 Wagon is on the top of the tank, but is accessable by peeling back the carpet in the cargo area. Little lump just to the right of center w/3 screws around it, but, like I said, this may very well be different on yours

well, yes, it probably helped that I drove up in them (I only needed new keys because the old ones were almost unusably worn)

I beleive there is a writeup on reading codes in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, and you should be able to read the codes even if the light is not on (they store it to memory). the computer is under the steering column, take of the panel (5 or 6 screws), turn on the ignition (engine need not be running), and count the long and short flashes (long = first digit, short = second digit). then look it up. my haynes manual has all the codes if the repair manual doesn't

sounds like it might be a vacuum leak , ours won't kickdown for that reason, but your problem is a bit more complicated so maybe not

my local subie dealer has cut me 2 new keys for free, one from the code on the key, but the other just from the VIN. Ask before you go pulling out door locks. -Chux

WOA!!! I have one too!!!!