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Numbchux

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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. Numbchux
    Ha. I forgot Justy's use a 3-cyl....good call
  2. Numbchux
    No Justy uses an inline engine, transversely-mounted. About as different as it's possible to be and still be a 4-cylinder.
  3. Numbchux
    Bulbs can fail intermittently, but both of them? Not likely. Sounds like a headlight switch, easy enough to test with a multimeter and a wiring diagram.
  4. Numbchux
    As long as they're not corroded, they're good to go. Threads will pull out of the block before the bolts will stretch.
  5. Numbchux
    GD is right. It can be done, but it's not simple. There is no "kit". It will require a lot of custom parts, and a lot of work (yes, I've done it).
  6. Numbchux
    We had a situation like this when I worked at the dealership (several years ago, so bear with me). The heater box and vents are all the same between the dual zone and base models, the only change is with the blend door (s) and mechanism. I don't remember exactly what is different, or how it works, but the temp control cable runs down the passenger side, and has to actuate both sides, and something between there fails.
  7. Numbchux
    FYI, the commonly-reffered-to H6 rotors, are not H6 specific, but mid-'02+ Outbacks. And I'll be you'll find a WRX/STi has the same master as your forester.
  8. Numbchux
    Depends what you're upgrading from. Most EJ cars use the same size master cylinder. If you've got a 5-lug EA car, and you've used larger calipers front and rear, it would be a good idea to go to a larger master cylinder to gain back some of your pedal travel/feel.
  9. Numbchux
    Not many loaded struts available for any Subaru. Just replace what's failed.
  10. Numbchux
    Nope, H6 VDC. And yea, it's very violent.
  11. Numbchux
    Nope, H6 VDC. And yea, it's very violent.
  12. Numbchux
    Our '04 has done this since we bought it (13xk on it then, almost 210k now), and not gotten even slightly worse. Anytime it downshifts from 4th, the trans takes so long to grab the lower gear that the engine revs way up. I cut the wire that tells the TCU when the cruise is on, and bumped the line pressure using FreeSSM to prevent downshifting as much, and anytime I know it needs to downshift, I do it manually. There's been a thread about it on SubaruOutback, sounds like several people have it, but no resolution. Here's my latest post there I have not had the time or motivation to climb under my parts car. Also, since then I bought an '01 VDC with 235k on it, that shifts beautifully. Questionable whether I can get a title for it (cheap enough not to matter....), but I think either way (no title: swap the trans from the '01 into the '04, title, fix the '01 and drive it, then repair the '04), I'm leaning towards taking the transmission in the '04 apart and see if I can rebuild/repair that issue.
  13. Numbchux
    Yep, unless someone also went to the trouble to widen the track width to EA82, and use the EA82 knuckles....you need the EA81 stuff.
  14. Numbchux
    91 is a "series 1", pre-facelift
  15. Numbchux
    Huh, I must be confusing them. I've messed with so many different diffs/transmissions over the years. Maybe it was the front diff in my 4Runner I'm thinking of..... Carry on
  16. Numbchux
    I thought the front ring gears had that already....
  17. Numbchux
    Functionally it's virtually identical (both still have spider gears and a viscous LSD). But the bearings and transfer gears changed considerably between phase 1 and phase 2 It should be possible to swap between them, IF you swap the housing and everything with it. I did it once to go the other way, to use a Group N phase 2 diff on a phase 1 Type R transmission for a rally car. It wasn't easy, but it was possible.
  18. Numbchux
    Yep. '05-'09 has the hub built into it. I thought this was interesting, the '05-'09 bearing (SKF anyway) and flange were bigger than the '00-'04. 20181222_062947~01 by Numbchux, on Flickr I bet you'll find that hub from the dealer is superseded to a hub-bearing assembly, too. I'm not sure what specs you're referencing. Timken doesn't make anything with splines for a '00-'04 rear, it's just a bearing in a flange, and the hub is reused.
  19. Numbchux
    rear outer splines are the same between '00-'04 and '05-'09. I used an '05-'09 rear hub assembly when I needed a rear bearing on my '00. This is relevant to my interests......Both 6-cylinders?
  20. Numbchux
    That's the entire function of the oil cooler, it exchanges heat between the engine oil and coolant. Oil flows through it to the filter and then back through it to the engine block, and coolant flows through it via a pair of rubber hoses. The hoses are flexible, so you can unbolt the cooler from the block and move it around some (plenty for replacing it's Oring). One of those hoses goes to a steel line that crosses in front of the oil pan, this can be unbolted from the engine to gain even more flexibility without opening the cooling system. I'm not sure if it'll be enough to really be beneficial in accessing the oil switch. In 2008, Subaru switched coolant types. I've seen newer cars with conventional green in them, but I certainly wouldn't mix them, at which point a gallon of Subaru stuff typically makes more sense then flushing the system to replace with conventional green fluid. Adding fluid isn't any different. I think that setup still has a conventional radiator cap/overflow bottle.
  21. Numbchux
    I did some looking. That allen bolt is likely one of the upper oil pan bolts to the block. Probably could remove it without an issue, but shouldn't need to. Yea, make sure you're not using an impact socket. Only downside to removing the oil cooler, is in order to really get any more room, you'll probably have to drain the coolant system and disconnect those 2 hoses (easily flexible enough to replace the cooler oring itself...). And this is new enough to call for the Subaru blue coolant.
  22. Numbchux
    There was a TSB about the TPS on H6 models causing mild transmission issues without throwing a code. There is an updated part number from Subaru for it. It's not exactly cheap, so get your hands on the FSM testing page to test the resistance values, but that might be your answer. That's the only thing I can think of. The Transmission unit uses speed and throttle position to determine the appropriate gear. If it was getting bad speed info, you'd have other symptoms....so it almost has to be TPS. The TCU is a learning unit, so it might be worth doing a capacitive discharge (disconnect the battery for a few minutes, and step on the brake to use up any electricity in the capacitors) to reset things to a factory default. It may be learning some bad habits.
  23. Numbchux
    SOP for the 6-lug conversion is just to redrill the hub. So the brake parts are not changed. Should be standard EA82 parts.
  24. Numbchux
    It's well above the level in the pan. Barely a dribble, as I recall. Much easier to access with the oil filter off, though. I had a hell of a time getting the new one started with the filter in place. Also I had an aftermarket one on it which used a different sized socket.
  25. Numbchux
    It's completely possible to piece together without a donor car. And if you know your way around the cars, it can be an excellent way to do it. I have several times. BUT, I will still say that generally-speaking the best way (cheapest, lowest risk of failure, most complete) is a donor car. I'm in the middle of a Lexus 1UZ 4.0l DOHC V8 swap for my 4Runner. I bought the engine out of a car, and could not hear it run. So I bench ran it before I bought almost any other parts for it. Those ECUs are notorious for having failing capacitors, so I replaced those, and bench ran it again to make sure it still worked. Then I coated an exhaust manifold and ran it again. All together, it's probably run about an hour on the stand. Skip the first 10 minutes to hear it run.
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