Numbchux

We had a situation like this when I worked at the dealership (several years ago, so bear with me). The heater box and vents are all the same between the dual zone and base models, the only change is with the blend door (s) and mechanism. I don't remember exactly what is different, or how it works, but the temp control cable runs down the passenger side, and has to actuate both sides, and something between there fails.

FYI, the commonly-reffered-to H6 rotors, are not H6 specific, but mid-'02+ Outbacks. And I'll be you'll find a WRX/STi has the same master as your forester.

Depends what you're upgrading from. Most EJ cars use the same size master cylinder. If you've got a 5-lug EA car, and you've used larger calipers front and rear, it would be a good idea to go to a larger master cylinder to gain back some of your pedal travel/feel.

Not many loaded struts available for any Subaru. Just replace what's failed.

Nope, H6 VDC. And yea, it's very violent.

Nope, H6 VDC. And yea, it's very violent.

Our '04 has done this since we bought it (13xk on it then, almost 210k now), and not gotten even slightly worse. Anytime it downshifts from 4th, the trans takes so long to grab the lower gear that the engine revs way up. I cut the wire that tells the TCU when the cruise is on, and bumped the line pressure using FreeSSM to prevent downshifting as much, and anytime I know it needs to downshift, I do it manually. There's been a thread about it on SubaruOutback, sounds like several people have it, but no resolution. Here's my latest post there I have not had the time or motivation to climb under my parts car. Also, since then I bought an '01 VDC with 235k on it, that shifts beautifully. Questionable whether I can get a title for it (cheap enough not to matter....), but I think either way (no title: swap the trans from the '01 into the '04, title, fix the '01 and drive it, then repair the '04), I'm leaning towards taking the transmission in the '04 apart and see if I can rebuild/repair that issue.

Yep, unless someone also went to the trouble to widen the track width to EA82, and use the EA82 knuckles....you need the EA81 stuff.

91 is a "series 1", pre-facelift

Huh, I must be confusing them. I've messed with so many different diffs/transmissions over the years. Maybe it was the front diff in my 4Runner I'm thinking of..... Carry on

I thought the front ring gears had that already....

Functionally it's virtually identical (both still have spider gears and a viscous LSD). But the bearings and transfer gears changed considerably between phase 1 and phase 2 It should be possible to swap between them, IF you swap the housing and everything with it. I did it once to go the other way, to use a Group N phase 2 diff on a phase 1 Type R transmission for a rally car. It wasn't easy, but it was possible.

Yep. '05-'09 has the hub built into it. I thought this was interesting, the '05-'09 bearing (SKF anyway) and flange were bigger than the '00-'04. 20181222_062947~01 by Numbchux, on Flickr I bet you'll find that hub from the dealer is superseded to a hub-bearing assembly, too. I'm not sure what specs you're referencing. Timken doesn't make anything with splines for a '00-'04 rear, it's just a bearing in a flange, and the hub is reused.

rear outer splines are the same between '00-'04 and '05-'09. I used an '05-'09 rear hub assembly when I needed a rear bearing on my '00. This is relevant to my interests......Both 6-cylinders?

That's the entire function of the oil cooler, it exchanges heat between the engine oil and coolant. Oil flows through it to the filter and then back through it to the engine block, and coolant flows through it via a pair of rubber hoses. The hoses are flexible, so you can unbolt the cooler from the block and move it around some (plenty for replacing it's Oring). One of those hoses goes to a steel line that crosses in front of the oil pan, this can be unbolted from the engine to gain even more flexibility without opening the cooling system. I'm not sure if it'll be enough to really be beneficial in accessing the oil switch. In 2008, Subaru switched coolant types. I've seen newer cars with conventional green in them, but I certainly wouldn't mix them, at which point a gallon of Subaru stuff typically makes more sense then flushing the system to replace with conventional green fluid. Adding fluid isn't any different. I think that setup still has a conventional radiator cap/overflow bottle.

I did some looking. That allen bolt is likely one of the upper oil pan bolts to the block. Probably could remove it without an issue, but shouldn't need to. Yea, make sure you're not using an impact socket. Only downside to removing the oil cooler, is in order to really get any more room, you'll probably have to drain the coolant system and disconnect those 2 hoses (easily flexible enough to replace the cooler oring itself...). And this is new enough to call for the Subaru blue coolant.

There was a TSB about the TPS on H6 models causing mild transmission issues without throwing a code. There is an updated part number from Subaru for it. It's not exactly cheap, so get your hands on the FSM testing page to test the resistance values, but that might be your answer. That's the only thing I can think of. The Transmission unit uses speed and throttle position to determine the appropriate gear. If it was getting bad speed info, you'd have other symptoms....so it almost has to be TPS. The TCU is a learning unit, so it might be worth doing a capacitive discharge (disconnect the battery for a few minutes, and step on the brake to use up any electricity in the capacitors) to reset things to a factory default. It may be learning some bad habits.

SOP for the 6-lug conversion is just to redrill the hub. So the brake parts are not changed. Should be standard EA82 parts.

It's well above the level in the pan. Barely a dribble, as I recall. Much easier to access with the oil filter off, though. I had a hell of a time getting the new one started with the filter in place. Also I had an aftermarket one on it which used a different sized socket.

It's completely possible to piece together without a donor car. And if you know your way around the cars, it can be an excellent way to do it. I have several times. BUT, I will still say that generally-speaking the best way (cheapest, lowest risk of failure, most complete) is a donor car. I'm in the middle of a Lexus 1UZ 4.0l DOHC V8 swap for my 4Runner. I bought the engine out of a car, and could not hear it run. So I bench ran it before I bought almost any other parts for it. Those ECUs are notorious for having failing capacitors, so I replaced those, and bench ran it again to make sure it still worked. Then I coated an exhaust manifold and ran it again. All together, it's probably run about an hour on the stand. Skip the first 10 minutes to hear it run.

This will depend very much on the local laws. Typically the state has a vaguely-worded statement about when and where you can drive it, which pretty much completely leaves it to the local law enforcement's discretion. When I got collector plates for my Brat and 4Runner (probably 8-10 years ago), I definitely had to sign something stating limited use (similar to the WA list posted above), when my dad did it for his 300ZX (more like 15 years ago), there was mention of mileage (although no inspection or anything to enforce it), when I did it for my Celica last year, there wasn't even any mention of it. The only requirement now, is to have another car registered with standard plates in my name. I kept standard plates on my Celica for years even though it was seasonal use, as I do daily drive it in the summer. I got pulled over one spring for expired tabs. When I told the officer that I bought them over the winter, but forgot to put them on when I got it out of storage, he suggested that I register it as a collector. My old neighbor, before I moved a few years ago, daily drove 2 cars both with collector plates year round. He did have a car in his name with regular plates, but his wife drove it. Never had a problem. I did get grief at the DMV/DNR office when I got an ORV sticker for my 4Runner. The lady at the counter, "You're going to take your collector bajaing through the woods? Your going to get caught!". I told her not to worry about it, and I've never had a problem. Of course, it's not a large savings. My insurance didn't change (I already take coverage off them when I'm not driving them). Tabs on older vehicles are only like $35 a year, and I don't have to run a front plate....neat.

Yea, it'll fit. Adapter plate to an EA82 transmission (better for offroad use), or use an EJ one (better for street use). Custom transmission crossmember. Some creativity/research on front axles. Wiring. Fuel Pump. Some Plumbing. It's been done many times, documented fairly well. I'd call it about a 2 or 3 out of 10 as far as engine swaps. But I'm pretty well-versed in swaps (currently putting a Lexus quad cam V8 in my 4Runner, and did a lot of work helping a friend put a 6.0 LS in his '98 Legacy).

The '06-'07s are ugly, and didn't sell well. The '08-'14s just look like an overgrown Outback. I frequently don't notice them.

This would be my recommendation. But, here's my stream-of-consciousness post about inner wheel seals: Short version, I ended up test-fitting a Timken/National 225678, and it looked like it would work (I don't like the XT6 knuckle/brake setup for my applications, so I never put it to use).

I knew I'd seen a similar discussion on this topic awhile ago, so I looked up the thread. Sounds like it might be the same car. Either way, no follow-up https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/494839-2003-subaru-outback-3l-h6-electrical-onstar-issue.html I haven't had any issue by unplugging modules. My '04 had Onstar, I unplugged it all and tossed it, and everything works. My '00 had a Subaru accessory shock sensor mounted next to the radio, tossed it, security system works as it should (no shock sensing, of course, but whatever). Ideally, you'd still have the stuff you cut out, but even without it, get the wiring diagrams (linked in the above thread), and repair what was cut, and that will probably fix your problem.