Numbchux

I'm surprised you didn't have something like that already. That sort of bracing is pretty SOP on rally cars. Here's what we did on Ziptie Rally v2 to reinforce the tower and tie it into the cage: In addition to a pretty beefy bolt-on fender brace that used both hinges.

I don't think I've ever actually heard/seen failure due to flat towing. But the ATF would not circulate, so there's potential for bearing failure on several components, I think I'd be most worried about the stuff in the transfer section. I know there's a little pipe that feeds fluid up to the upper bearing in that rear output. Without any fluid flow there, I don't imagine that would last long (and the rear output rides right on that bearing, so yea, you'd have to pull the shaft to prevent that). Non VDC/VTD 4EATs do not send the torque for the front wheels through the transfer clutches, so that's not surprising at all. Pop out a front axle and try it again....you'll have a different experience

That'll do it! I've never personally researched flat towing, but my grandparents lived in their motorhome for 10 years, and bought several cars in that time, and they went out of their way to find vehicles that were approved for flat towing from the manufacturer. So I was under the impression retrofitting wasn't possible. Of course, the last one they bought was probably 10 years ago, so things could easily have changed since then.

Results will vary considerably from one tire to the other. Usually it's just a matter of water clearing, but I could absolutely see it leading to strange handling characteristics.

Yea, I don't think it's worth trying to modify the 4EAT to be towed (or leave it idling the entire time...). So if you're going to do it, I'd definitely tow the '99. You'll want some extra cooling capacity on the '02, though. Last summer we went camping with my wife and daughter (about a year and a half at the time), aluminum boat (probably 1k lbs), bikes, tents, coolers, etc. etc. etc. I'm sure we were over GVWR, in our '04 VDC with an aux trans cooler. On the way out, it was about 95*F, and we had the A/C cranked. After a couple hours, the engine temp started to creep. We ended up turning the A/C off and taking it easy up the hills and it managed. Is your 02 a VDC? Either way, "1" and "2" will make the Duty C programming a bit more aggressive, but yes, "2" will keep it from downshifting to first.

Absolutely. I bought a gallon each of the clean/prep products about 10 years ago, and I still have about 1/3 of each left. And I follow the process to the letter (IIRC, wash, rinse, etch, paint). The cleaning chemical should be diluted, and works best when hot. etc. I've never had a bad experience. I was just pulling one of the KYBs off my Celica that had blown after 8 years to send in for warranty through RockAuto, brake backing plates, lateral links, backing plates and calipers still look great (painted at the same time, seen probably 4 winters since then).

Yep, I've done that. It's a B****. I'll do it with a rear diff, but not a transmission, thanks. Yea, seats swap (back seats are pretty specific sedan to sedan, wagon to wagon, but even that can be dealt with). Carpet fits OK. But that's about it.

This might fall in the category of anecdote more than you were looking for, but it's fantastic stuff. I always keep it around (it doesn't store well, but you can buy 6-packs of little 4oz cans), and I use it on almost everything I take apart (brake calipers, control arms, etc.), remove loose stuff with a wire wheel on a grinder, and then use their cleaning and prep chemicals. 2 years ago I used an HVLP gun to spray it on the frame of my old 4Runner. Not necessarily. What really convinced me, is there's a company up in Canada that does fiberglass restoration panels for old Toyota trucks (www.toyotafiberglass.com , not the greatest website). He posts progress pictures on a lot of his jobs on yotatech, and he's using POR15 CONSTANTLY. Here's a relatively recent one. Rear quarter panels on a 4Runner. Here's what he found when the original quarters were peeled off: And here's after POR15 on all that inner structure: He gets good money for these jobs, and is booked out YEARS. Here's his show truck, 83 Trekker with a supercharged Tacoma 3.4, and the frame and all running gear in POR15:

Yea, I'm always really wary of cars for sale without a title. It's usually pretty simple to get a duplicate (in MN for sure, I've done it) if it's actually in your name.

It is possible to do it that way, but not better, IMO. If just using ramps to support the car, it's a PITA to get the front axles off the trans, far better to put it on stands so the ball joints can be popped out and axles taken loose. I've done it both ways many times. The higher the car off the ground, the better. Did it in a 4" lifted EA82 once, that wasn't too terrible, but if I were doing it again, I'd still pull the motor. Pulling a Subaru engine is so easy. The only way I remove/install a Subaru transmission from the bottom, is if I'm JUST replacing the transmission.

My understanding, is that there is no JDM SOHC EJ25 (or at least, they're very rare). There is a 2.0l engine that is VERY similar, and can be swapped in place, certainly for the non-VVT variant. We bought 10 or so JDM engines a year at the Subaru dealership I worked at, non-VVT EJ201s and first-gen EZ30Ds were both pretty cheap. There definitely is a high demand for EJ253s in the US. Call a junkyard and tell them you're looking for one, they probably won't even have to log into their computer to know that they'll be hard to find (they're out there, but the supply/demand ratio in the normal used parts channels drives the price up a LOT).

Yep, try to wait to touch the throttle until the clutch is fully engaged. I've ridden in cars several times where the driver is clearly dragging the clutch into the next gear....it drives me insane. I almost always do that from a stop, too. Feathering the clutch with the engine at idle until it's engaged, and then throttle. I probably stall it once a week in my Outback (gearing and weight make it easier in my Celica). Last week I felt like an idiot because I stalled it at least once a day, then I discovered I had a sticking brake....

90-94 and 95-99 are different body styles. No body parts will work, and very little interior. There are lots and lots of little mechanical changes, but at the same time, there are a lot of parts that will work. It's not an ideal parts car, but for the right price, if you've got the space, could be totally worth it. The '95-'96 are OBDII, which means a lot of electrical differences. 96 has single exhaust ports on the heads, whereas the 92 and 95 have dual. Should be the same brakes, suspension, axles. Assuming they're both AWD, drivetrain parts could be swapped, but diffs are likely a different ratio (so you'd have to swap transmission and differential as a pair). If it's not a total rust bucket, and is AWD, I'd fix it (I bought a pretty rusty '00 Outback last spring with 313k on it and a badly failing clutch. Put a clutch in it, and I'm at almost 325k now). Unless you have a hoist and a transmission jack, I DEFINITELY recommend pulling the engine.

Yes, it's completely based on the Outback. The differences are pretty minor. Just like the Brat, it has a longer overhang past the back wheels, so a longer overall length. But the wheelbase is the same as the Outback. Suspension (different spring rates for a slightly taller ride), brakes, etc. Never an H6 option, though (I'd love to find a flooded one, and gut it down to bare metal and swap Outback VDC interior, wiring and drivetrain into one). The Baja did carry on after the BE/BH Outback was replaced, and so the Baja got some of the changes that happened in 05-06, mainly the turbo engine option and immobilizer.

Baja is built in the US, though. So my understanding is the chicken tax wouldn't apply.

You'll probably want something like +35 offset. I had 17x8+38s on my Loyale (with a 5-lug swap, of course), and it was a perfect fit. I ran 215/45r17s (which are about 1/2" shorter diameter than 205/60r15) and was lowered a couple inches. You can DEFINITELY go bigger.

"desirable" They're so different, it's not really comparable. The Brat is more rugged, simple, and utilitarian (larger bed, true 4WD with low range, EA81 engine). The Baja is more refined, comfortable, and modern. About as you'd expect for 2 vehicles 25-30 years apart. They're both quite sought-after. I have a rusted out POS of a brat, and I've had a couple people come knock on my door and ask me if I'd sell it (and because I've watched for them for sale, too, I've said no). And my wife wants a Baja something fierce, so I've been watching for one of those, and they command huge value. 300k miles, headgaskets pouring, slipping transmission, and considerable rust (tough, because they have even more plastic on the sides that the Outbacks on which they are based)? I'll let it go for $3k.

The leather driver seat in our '04 Outback VDC was very badly cracked when we bought it. I assumed I'd have to buy another seat... I bought some Lexol cleaner and conditioner (the only brand in stock at Wal-Mart at the time that had separate cleaner/conditioner products). It rejuvenated the leather considerably, and it still looks pretty good (doesn't look like new, cracks are still visible, but far less evident, and haven't gotten any worse) 4 years and ~70k miles later. Now, it's the only product I've ever used, but I still have the same bottle, and use it regularly on that Outback and our conversion van. And will probably buy the same again when this is gone.

Baja was '02-'06, and Brat was '70s-'88 (I think, I might be off a year or so here or there, also that's in the US market, Brat was made longer in other countries under different names). Yes, they're very different. Both only 4 cylinders. Both were available with a 4-cyl turbo for a couple years. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_BRAT https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Baja

This is the correct diagnostic method, to see if the TCU is telling the transfer solenoid to activate. Even though you've changed the transmission, I'd still bet it's the solenoid and/or clutches. This was such a common failure, when I worked at a Subaru dealer, we stocked all that stuff (Duty C solenoid, clutches, and all gaskets).

As mentioned, you don't need the XT6 crossmember. And to my knowledge, aftermarket clutch kits no longer offer an XT6-specific option. I'm not terribly sure what your clutch options with the EA81 trans are, I thought the Nissan throwout allows you to run an EA82 clutch, which should be a bit better than the EA81. But I haven't played with EA81s....so take a big grain of salt I would definitely recommend the SJR adapter plate. He does a good job machining, though I've done several flywheel modifications myself. If your Impreza is an automatic, you'll have an easy pattern with the little spacer on the flexplate (otherwise, get on a local Subaru facebook group, and/or the classifieds on here, and you might be able to get one for cheap). A high-speed cutting bit on a dremel does very well (I think I bought 3 of them, but probably could have done it with one). The center hole will center it perfectly on the snout of the engine, and orientation no longer matters. Just ream them out until you get all 8 bolts in. Unless your other Brat is a turbo, it won't have an adequate fuel pump either. You'll need a fairly modest fuel-injection pump. Far easiest to get something designed to be mounted inline. I've used stock EA82 replacement ones, I used one for some old Ford station wagon once. If I were doing it now, I'd get on Summit racing or similar and buy a universal inline one. Yep, EJ ECU has fan control outputs, just wire it to a relay, and that to your fan, you'll be golden.

I couldn't have said it better myself. LEDs have a smaller output point than a halogen filament, whereas HID is a larger point. Completely different challenges, and the findings with one source are irrelevant to the other. Thanks for backing me up.

Fantastic article about HIDs. Pretty "awesome" how it's full of assumption that LEDs are exactly the same, even though they aren't. Kind of discredits the entire article..... We've done this before, and I'm not going to get into it again. I'm anal about headlights, and have used LED retrofits with fantastic results. They can work wonderfully. I will concede that if the bulb isn't made correctly, it won't work right, and because it is a bit different, it's possible that results will vary with different lenses.

I didn't really see that when I worked in Subaru parts (I left last summer). Certainly not the normal wear items. Yes, occasionally someone would be looking for something odd that wasn't available anymore... But yea, OEMs don't generally have much available after about 20-25 years (I can't believe how much Toyota has for my '91 and '87, and Ford can't even look up my '94).

Yea, an engine uses the smallest amount of fuel at idle. So if your 440 uses 2-4 lb/hr, the EA71 probably uses about .2 lb/hr. BUT, if they say it can handle it, than I wouldn't worry about it. No, I don't know of your valve question. I have zero hands-on experience with stuff older than EA81s (and even that, just barely). Yea, the fuel system is relatively simple. I don't know those kits at all, but converting it to a high pressure system is relatively straight forward. Just make sure everything's rated for high pressure, and you have an adequate return.... Thanks for following up after calling them. It's good info. Assuming you end up making the conversion, start a new thread with some information on your setup and I'll link it in the FAQ