Numbchux

Use it to run different sized tires (spare). You can use it when daily driving, but it doesn't reduce any inertia (all the components still spin), and the physical drag from the clutches being released is negated by the hydraulic drag on the pump to release those clutches. IIRC, on the phase 1 transmissions, no hydraulic pressure (engine off) will lock those clutch packs, so engine off will not disengage the AWD. It can be handy to diagnose a transfer clutch problem.

It changes the allowable percentage in speed difference front to rear. Similar effect, just slightly different reason I disagree. The AWD actuation is effected most by the throttle position, gently bringing it off idle may not be enough to change it much. I'd give it a stab of throttle and rev it out to 3-4k and then let off. The best test is in the snow or mud, where there's enough drag so you can sustain 1/2-3/4 throttle and keep the tires spinning. But that's not exactly a practical test.

That logo is definitely pre-'90. Cool find!

Yes, they use transmission fluid to apply pressure to the clutch packs that transfer power to the rear. As mentioned, it relies on hydraulic pressure to engage the rear axle, so with the car off, driveshaft spinning by hand is definitely fine. Grain of salt, I haven't tested this, nor do I have a car with that AWD that I could test it on. BUT. There are 2 speed sensors, effectively measuring front and rear output speed, when a difference is detected it should feather the clutch packs to send a little torque to the rear. IIRC, regardless of any other conditions, it should apply some pressure to those clutches, which should spin the rear axle with no load on it. The only variable here that I'm unsure of, is that when you have it on jack stands, you're presumably at idle. It's possible that with no throttle detected, it won't apply enough pressure to the clutch packs to spin. If you blip the throttle with it in gear, and they still don't spin, you definitely have a problem. Also, this information covers nearly all 4EAT AWD Subarus (definitely your '95 Legacy), there are a few exceptions that have VTD AWD with a 4EAT. SVXs in other markets, Outback H6 VDC models (this is what I have, which is why I can't test this), and WRXs, maybe others. These models have a true differential, which is also limited by clutch packs.

Yea, with some mounts and axles (and wiring, and plumbing...all the normal swap stuff), a person could put almost any transverse FWD drivetrain in one. Wouldn't even be terribly hard to keep it AWD (custom driveshaft, finding a rear diff in the right ratio). People put VTEC Honda engines in old Minis fairly regularly....

Ha. I forgot Justy's use a 3-cyl....good call

No Justy uses an inline engine, transversely-mounted. About as different as it's possible to be and still be a 4-cylinder.

Bulbs can fail intermittently, but both of them? Not likely. Sounds like a headlight switch, easy enough to test with a multimeter and a wiring diagram.

As long as they're not corroded, they're good to go. Threads will pull out of the block before the bolts will stretch.

GD is right. It can be done, but it's not simple. There is no "kit". It will require a lot of custom parts, and a lot of work (yes, I've done it).

We had a situation like this when I worked at the dealership (several years ago, so bear with me). The heater box and vents are all the same between the dual zone and base models, the only change is with the blend door (s) and mechanism. I don't remember exactly what is different, or how it works, but the temp control cable runs down the passenger side, and has to actuate both sides, and something between there fails.

FYI, the commonly-reffered-to H6 rotors, are not H6 specific, but mid-'02+ Outbacks. And I'll be you'll find a WRX/STi has the same master as your forester.

Depends what you're upgrading from. Most EJ cars use the same size master cylinder. If you've got a 5-lug EA car, and you've used larger calipers front and rear, it would be a good idea to go to a larger master cylinder to gain back some of your pedal travel/feel.

Not many loaded struts available for any Subaru. Just replace what's failed.

Nope, H6 VDC. And yea, it's very violent.

Nope, H6 VDC. And yea, it's very violent.

Our '04 has done this since we bought it (13xk on it then, almost 210k now), and not gotten even slightly worse. Anytime it downshifts from 4th, the trans takes so long to grab the lower gear that the engine revs way up. I cut the wire that tells the TCU when the cruise is on, and bumped the line pressure using FreeSSM to prevent downshifting as much, and anytime I know it needs to downshift, I do it manually. There's been a thread about it on SubaruOutback, sounds like several people have it, but no resolution. Here's my latest post there I have not had the time or motivation to climb under my parts car. Also, since then I bought an '01 VDC with 235k on it, that shifts beautifully. Questionable whether I can get a title for it (cheap enough not to matter....), but I think either way (no title: swap the trans from the '01 into the '04, title, fix the '01 and drive it, then repair the '04), I'm leaning towards taking the transmission in the '04 apart and see if I can rebuild/repair that issue.

Yep, unless someone also went to the trouble to widen the track width to EA82, and use the EA82 knuckles....you need the EA81 stuff.

91 is a "series 1", pre-facelift

Huh, I must be confusing them. I've messed with so many different diffs/transmissions over the years. Maybe it was the front diff in my 4Runner I'm thinking of..... Carry on

I thought the front ring gears had that already....

Functionally it's virtually identical (both still have spider gears and a viscous LSD). But the bearings and transfer gears changed considerably between phase 1 and phase 2 It should be possible to swap between them, IF you swap the housing and everything with it. I did it once to go the other way, to use a Group N phase 2 diff on a phase 1 Type R transmission for a rally car. It wasn't easy, but it was possible.

Yep. '05-'09 has the hub built into it. I thought this was interesting, the '05-'09 bearing (SKF anyway) and flange were bigger than the '00-'04. 20181222_062947~01 by Numbchux, on Flickr I bet you'll find that hub from the dealer is superseded to a hub-bearing assembly, too. I'm not sure what specs you're referencing. Timken doesn't make anything with splines for a '00-'04 rear, it's just a bearing in a flange, and the hub is reused.

rear outer splines are the same between '00-'04 and '05-'09. I used an '05-'09 rear hub assembly when I needed a rear bearing on my '00. This is relevant to my interests......Both 6-cylinders?

That's the entire function of the oil cooler, it exchanges heat between the engine oil and coolant. Oil flows through it to the filter and then back through it to the engine block, and coolant flows through it via a pair of rubber hoses. The hoses are flexible, so you can unbolt the cooler from the block and move it around some (plenty for replacing it's Oring). One of those hoses goes to a steel line that crosses in front of the oil pan, this can be unbolted from the engine to gain even more flexibility without opening the cooling system. I'm not sure if it'll be enough to really be beneficial in accessing the oil switch. In 2008, Subaru switched coolant types. I've seen newer cars with conventional green in them, but I certainly wouldn't mix them, at which point a gallon of Subaru stuff typically makes more sense then flushing the system to replace with conventional green fluid. Adding fluid isn't any different. I think that setup still has a conventional radiator cap/overflow bottle.