Numbchux

3 sets of splines. But if you're not sure, measure.

Building an EJ22t to be stout is more expensive than a brand new EJ257 block, which has thicker main bearing supports, #5 thrust bearing, nitrided crank, and better cooling being semi closed. So the smart people aren't looking for the 2.2s anymore. There was a guy in England buying short blocks for like $800 for his hill climb car, because he was sleeving, converting to phase 2 crank, etc., but even that was like 10 years ago. The heads are garbage, for any performance application What I would pay for it, would depend considerably on my intended use. But I can't imagine spending more than a couple hundred bucks. If I had a stock turbo Legacy that needed an engine, I would pay more for a complete engine.

Similar, but not the same. The OBXT EJ255 block is semi closed, with more reinforced cylinder walls. Also the pistons will be different to drop the compression for the turbo. Probably more that I'm not thinking of. But it would be possible to move all the external components (oil pan, oil/water pumps, heads, intake, coolant bridge, etc. etc.) ...but far from ideal.

Assuming you are talking about the older strong STi 6-speed, no, it's much larger. Requires a shorter driveshaft and shift linkage. I think the mount is in the same place, but I could be wrong... I don't know about the newer split case 6-speeds, they're not nearly as strong, so likely not as physically large as the STi ones.

You have compression, and it won't run on ether? Your ignition timing is off. Did you use the original crank and LH cam sprockets? These have the tone wheels for their sensors, and there was a change about that vintage. Pull the timing covers and verify cam timing. Check the trouble codes.

All EAs were 5-bolt with the bolt in (hollow) stub axles. I don't completely know the pattern, but they were definitely used simultaneously from the '90s until at least 2015 or so. I think in base model/small engine optioned cars.

Lots of reputable brands. Superbrightleds, Diode Dynamics, Autolumination off the top of my head. No. I wouldn't do it that way, but theoretically a person could look at the wattage of the bulb and calcuate the resistance to mimic it.

I wish that was the case, here. I live in a city on a hill that's above the largest freshwater lake in North America (Duluth, MN, Lake Superior) and they are constantly doing PR campaigns about contaminants in the ground water and storm drains getting into the lake, but they still salt the roads like that. And it's illegal to use chains or studs because it damages the road surface.....but the roads suck anyway....

Been done thousands of times. Depending on the LED, the dimmer doesn't always work. And they have to be wide angle LEDs, or you'll end up with bring and dark areas. Just know that the alternator circuit is looking for specific resistance across the battery light bulb, so either leave that one incandescent, or add a resistor to mimic it. Otherwise your alternator won't charge.

Pretty rare to have the rear cover leak like that, but there is a gasket there. Looks more like the pinion seal or one or both of the side axle seals are leaking, and have been for quite some time, and it's dripping down and blowing back to that lowest part. Unload a can or 2 of degreaser and/or brake clean at that thing and get it cleaned up, top it off, and then drive again and see where the leak comes from.

The EJ engine-EA transmission combination leaves a ~12mm (IIRC, because 1/2" is close enough at about 13mm) gap between the 2 bellhousings, which is perfect, as only the bottom studs line up, so the adapter plate to change bolt patterns also takes up the missing bellhousing depth. The opposite combination would have the factory bellhousings hitting each other (not bolted up, because different bolt pattern), and the input shaft would be 12mm short of the flywheel. If you used a standard adapter plate, you'd need a 1" thick spacer for the flywheel. BUT, he's already EJ engine swapped. The EJ transmission is absolutely the way to go. The dual range in the RX transmission is a neat pub fact, but in practice, the ratios suck for just about anything (it was designed and built when the national speed limit was 55). Ditto with the lockable center diff (locked center is good for intense offroading, but nothing else). Get a phase 2 EJ transmission. I'd be looking for something with 4.111 axle ratios and a .738 5th gear will pull harder from a stop, and cruise better on the highway. The phase 2 VLSD center diff will handle better on the pavement, ice, snow and dirt. Keep your clutch type LSD, and swap it into the matching EJ case with matching ring gear. I put phase 1 EJ internals with the above ratios into my XT6 single range case and put it in my '88 XT6 about 10-12 years ago, it drove SOOOOOOOO much better!

Well, I've used an Impreza pedal box on a Forester..... I did some googling for the ones I was thinking of, which have a little dam on the front edge, but I found many other designs. Our GC rally car had a JDM aluminum hood, but just stock OBS/RS vents (I don't remember if was had the plates under them or not) and scoop. But we also had a big aluminum radiator, FMIC, and didn't really ever have any cooling issues.

I don't think that style vent would offer much in the way of cooling. Maybe at slow speed....but that's probably it. There are many factory and aftermarket options that fit there that are more shaped to help create some negative pressure above the vent while moving that would likely have a bigger effect. Then again, reversing the scoop would likely have a much bigger effect, if you don't have a TMIC or intake right below it.

I always bought 6 qts, and saved the receipt. Seems to me I usually returned 1, but the last time I used them all.

We stuck the fork in it. The codes haven't come back, but it slips and lurches from a stop (especially uphill), and makes an awful noise. We just put a deposit on a 2018 Impreza hatch with 17k miles and a salvage title due to hail damage. I tried to get her out of a Subaru, but a comparable Toyota (Rav4, AWD Camry, Corolla Cross, etc.) is at least $10k more.

We aimed for a drain-and-fill every 60k miles or so on my Mom's 2012 Impreza, Subaru fluid. It lasted about 220k. I guess that's good for an early TR580

It's not hard to pop those out when replacing a ball joint or even strut. So if anything like that was done recently, that's likely the answer. I don't think I've seen one pop out on their own. I would recommend replacing both the front differential gear oil (as it likely has some metal shavings from the slipping splines, and the spider gears likely got hot from spinning with only one axle connected), and ATF (as the transfer clutches got abused) after driving it like that.

I only run Duralast pads on my vehicles. They have a lifetime warranty (including wear), so you never have to buy them again. Golds come with hardware, so that's usually my preference. The Gold rotors are ok, but I've had a couple sets, and the coating that they come with flakes off super easy, and I wasn't terribly impressed with how they held up. They're not bad, but I don't think they're worth the premium (OE rotors are cheaper, in some applications). Most standard Duralast rotors have a coated hat now, anyway.

No, Subarus have constant flow through the heater core, and divert the air around it to adjust the temperature.

@bratsrus1is Jerry, although he hasn't been on here in years Here's a post where he lists his phone number, But I think I saw a post on Facebook that he wasn't going to make the kits anymore....

Just start a new thread, instead of digging up a 5+ year old one. And list your exact symptoms and what you've tried. Lots of good FSMs on www.jdmfsm.info

Any OBDII reader capable of reading live data. The Bluetooth dongles tethered to a smart phone offer quite a bit of functionality. I've used FreeSSM on several Subarus, but I don't think it's designed for anything that old.

Most cars in the last 20-30 years do that from the factory, using a controller to vary pump duty. And actually take it further, to vary it based on engine load. I'm in the middle of swapping a 1994 Lexus 4.0 V8 into my 4Runner, and in one of my test runs, I pulled the return hose out of my fuel bucket, and it was just a dribble coming out, even at idle. This helps fight overheating of the fuel, and probably reduced wear on the fuel filters, as it cuts down on the volume of fuel going through them. When I worked at AutoZone, the fuel pump companies said (grain of salt....but it makes sense) that the vast majority of fuel pump warranty claims were caused by debris, which is why you should always replace the prefilter when replacing a pump. I don't believe such a thing exists on the EA Subarus, so it might be worth putting an inline filter between the tank and pump. The nice thing about the inline filter design on the EAs, is that you can get one anywhere. I've used ones for Ford trucks, and several other things. Can't get a $40 fuel pump for anything I drive, now.

Yep, paper gaskets seem to leak. Stamped metal ones generally do not. Many aftermarket companies have figured this out, and supply a metal gasket, but not all. I'm assuming that since the incorrect water pump gasket was used, that the incorrect head gaskets were used as well....so just assume those will fail, and they may leave you stranded (OEM coated gaskets tend to just leak oil, OEM MLS gaskets tend to outlast the vehicle). It sounds like the water pump is getting air in it and cavatating, that easily could just be from your external leak, or it could be a head gasket.

This is SOP when building a rally car. THICK steel plate on the top of all 4 struts, and tied into the cage.