Numbchux

Android. Using an ELM327 protocol adapter. Primarily using the App "Piston".

I don't believe there's any way to monitor it on the car. But there are 100s (if not 1000s) of products that work with the OBDII system to monitor it. ScanGauge is a nice self-contained unit, but kind of spendy. I have a bluetooth dongle that I bought on Amazon for $15 or so that allows me to read that stuff on a free app on my phone. For just a few days a year, I'd probably go with the phone app direction.

SVX, good luck getting a known-good one. EVERYTHING else requires at least swapping the rear diff as well.

Perfect, yea, I wouldn't worry about that tow at all. Use a bluetooth dongle or something to keep an eye on transmission temperatures, go gentle, and it'll be fine. The Subaru accessory hitch is very nice, but it is fairly expensive (they lowered the price considerably last summer, but it's still a bunch). ECOHitch makes a nice 2" version that mounts behind the bumper like the accessory one. Both of those options require taking the bumper cover off to mount, which is how they get a much cleaner install, but much more labor intensive (at the dealership I worked at, we charged 1.6 hours to try to stay competitive, but even the best techs took more than 2 hours).

The Subaru accessory hitch is not rated for an ounce more than the car, and vice versa. They do not publish any information about which is the weak link. But it's fairly substantial, replacing the factory bumper beam, and bolting to the ends of the frame rails. I have no personal experience towing with anything that new, but I do tow all the time with our '04 Outback H6. I have a 3500lb hitch on it, and an auxiliary transmission cooler on it for that reason. We own a 14' Aluminum boat with a 25hp Evinrude on it that I tow at freeway speeds fairly regularly. We brought it camping this summer, with the car loaded with our camping gear (with a toddler...lots of gear), bikes in the boat, etc. I'm sure we were well over GVWR. I had to turn the A/C off on the inclines as things were getting hot, but it was also over 90*F. I put my aunt's 19' Fiberglass deep vee open bow with 85hp Outboard (the internet told me 2500 dry) in the water this spring with it. It did fantastically on the ramp, but the drive was only about 5 miles, at a max of about 35mph. My concern with towing with a newer Outback would be the CVT, as there's potential for a lot of heat build-up there. I'd monitor transmission temperatures VERY closely (OBDII should be able to display this), and adjust driving style accordingly. Early and late in the season means cooler air temperatures, which helps considerably. Ultimately, if it's a relatively short tow (say, 100 miles or so) and can be done at slower speeds (maybe a scenic route), I wouldn't hesitate to do it....

For anyone curious, the '96 slipped through my fingers. But I picked up that parts car. It's in worse shape than I remembered (it's been more than 10 years since it was crashed, and it's been sitting outside like this since then). But the price is right, and should have the parts I need to fix my '97. 2018-07-31_08-28-28 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Yep, when I worked at the dealership, we stocked those....fairly common.

Anything's possible, and I've never even remotely compared them (I've never even had an EA82 tank out of a car...). But they're pretty different platforms. At the very least, it's not going to be a direct swap.

I would not bet against you there...

The high torque CVTs still aren't standard on the regular 4-cyl. But any CVT behind a turbo (WRX or FXT) or 6-cyl got the high torque (which uses an even more special fluid, which Subaru only sells in a 5 gallon bucket). It's odd, junkyards sell decent CVTs for relatively cheap ($1k or less, find a CVT for another manufacturer for that little) which usually indicates that there isn't much demand. But when they extended the warranty, we started replacing them like crazy (Subaru reman is $7k...). My mom drives a 2012 Impreza with the CVT. We've been doing a drain/fill every 30k miles. Yes, the fluid is like $25 a quart, and it uses more than 5 qts. But it's still cheap compared to replacing the trans.

Yea, that seems pretty expensive for injector cleaner.... Rear diff oil is certainly a good idea, front diff and CVT is probably overkill at 30k, but I wouldn't say it's a waste.

85+ is most likely an EA82 tank, which is not quite right. AFAIK, there are no new EA81 tanks available, you'll have to find a good used, which is tough as most junkyards drill a hole in them to drain them. Brat/Wagon are interchangeable for sure, probably sedan and coupe as well, hatchback tank is physically smaller, can be used with a plate behind it to adapt to the mounts for the larger tank (my brat has a hatch tank in it)

OHV is EA81, SOHC is EA82

The Tribeca being a 5EAT should have Subaru HP in it, which is a full-synthetic. There are a few aftermarket equivalents... 4EATs before 2006 just need Dexron III, which is the most common and cheapest form of ATF (usually labeled as Dex/Merc). There are plenty of synthetic and name brand alternatives, but you're transmission would be better off if you spend a third as much, and change it twice as often.

Leave one sway link connected. That'll hold the bar where it needs to be so it can't hit anything, but it'll still be ineffective.

Don't waste your time or money until you have something hooked up to the CEL wire on the ECU (could just be a test light, or something more permanent).

Correct forum bump. Thanks for moving it. Anyone with some opinion? Experience? Advice? Regrets? Manual swap would be sweet, but a big job. There's a potential that the parts car (collision damage) has a good transmission, which could mean I could fix 2 parts without having to source any more major parts.

We don't have any emissions testing here, so I have zero experience with that. But, you say it's an EJ22 swap.....they made EJ22s for over 10 years. Please narrow that down. Check engine light? Pending codes? No, ignition timing is all electronic and not adjustable. It is possible to have one cam off a tooth and have it run OK, but not great. You'd probably notice.

Wow. I posted this in Old Gen? DOH! Mods please move. Ran into my friend with the parts car last night. He offered to give it to me if I come get it.

The EG33 is like 3 inches longer, so fitment is much more difficult. Just getting the radiator to fit is a challenge. A/C? Yikes. Also the EG33 was rare and is getting old, parts are getting hard to come by. The EZ30 is newer, and much much more common. I love the EG33, but the EZ is so much more practical.

I have a '97 SVX, I picked it up last fall in trade for basically nothing. Something like 270k miles, been a MN car it's whole life, so very rusty. Runs, moves, but the rear subframe has failed (LR trailing arm is no longer attached). Very good friend of mine has a parts car that would probably give me the rear suspension. So I've been pondering fixing it. I was planning to replace my XT6 in winter beater duty, but since then I picked up a cheap Outback.... I already have a Celica GT convertible for an impractical summer car (Celica has a trailer hitch, so it's more practical than an SVX). Yesterday, a '96 pops up on Craigslist here. 110k miles, looks really nice, failed transmission. I know a guy that builds Subaru 4EATs for drag racing, and will pay about $150 for an SVX core. I know of an Outback 4EAT that I could probably buy for a song. It's either a '98 or '99, I don't think it could reasonably be made work if it's a '99. I have a 4.111 and 4.444 rear diff Option 1, part the '97, and use it's transmission to fix the '96. Stock for stock. And even though I know it was well maintained, it's high-mileage. Option 2, get my hands on a 4.111 or 4.444 4EAT for the '96. Still pretty easy swap, only need the trans and diff, but potentially unknown used transmission condition. Option 3, MT swap the '96. Much better outcome, much more work. I really don't need another project. Have to source parts. Have to fab parts. Option 1 costs me virtually nothing. Selling the '96 core and other parts off the '97 would easily pay for fluids and other things I might need for the swap. 2 & 3 still leaves me the option of fixing or parting the '97. What would you do? While I will probably drive the '96 for awhile, ultimately I'll resell it. So who's sold a MT-swapped SVX? Is there enough value to justify the project?

No seat switch, just door switch. I'd check fuses/relays, then I'd blow out the track with compressed air (sometimes the arm can be prevented from reaching the end of the travel, and therefore tripping the limit switch). Then I'd either live with it (what I've been doing with my XT6), or swap to manual belts.

Higher-than-stock CV angles, and then a CV failed. Certainly related. Might be something else contributing, might have already been worn. Pretty hard to say if the next one will last or not.

Yea, outer CV is broken. I don't think removing strut mount bolts will give you enough play to get the axle out, I think you have to disconnect the lateral links from one end or the other. 3&4. It will do just fine as long as you never demand more than FWD from it. But any power sent to the rear will just get spun away there. Depending on what exactly has happened inside that shaft, it might come loose and cause more damage, might not....

I'm excited to hear about that. We're planning a trip up there for this fall. Probably less intense than you usually do, but I'd still like to see what we find. At the very least, we want to cross the firesteel railroad trestles, and spend a night either on the beach at Keweenaw point, or the island on Schlattner lake (pending finding a decent inflatable boat for cheapish, as it probably doesn't make sense to haul a couple canoes up there just to get to the island).