Numbchux

Yea, that seems pretty expensive for injector cleaner.... Rear diff oil is certainly a good idea, front diff and CVT is probably overkill at 30k, but I wouldn't say it's a waste.

85+ is most likely an EA82 tank, which is not quite right. AFAIK, there are no new EA81 tanks available, you'll have to find a good used, which is tough as most junkyards drill a hole in them to drain them. Brat/Wagon are interchangeable for sure, probably sedan and coupe as well, hatchback tank is physically smaller, can be used with a plate behind it to adapt to the mounts for the larger tank (my brat has a hatch tank in it)

OHV is EA81, SOHC is EA82

The Tribeca being a 5EAT should have Subaru HP in it, which is a full-synthetic. There are a few aftermarket equivalents... 4EATs before 2006 just need Dexron III, which is the most common and cheapest form of ATF (usually labeled as Dex/Merc). There are plenty of synthetic and name brand alternatives, but you're transmission would be better off if you spend a third as much, and change it twice as often.

Leave one sway link connected. That'll hold the bar where it needs to be so it can't hit anything, but it'll still be ineffective.

Don't waste your time or money until you have something hooked up to the CEL wire on the ECU (could just be a test light, or something more permanent).

Correct forum bump. Thanks for moving it. Anyone with some opinion? Experience? Advice? Regrets? Manual swap would be sweet, but a big job. There's a potential that the parts car (collision damage) has a good transmission, which could mean I could fix 2 parts without having to source any more major parts.

We don't have any emissions testing here, so I have zero experience with that. But, you say it's an EJ22 swap.....they made EJ22s for over 10 years. Please narrow that down. Check engine light? Pending codes? No, ignition timing is all electronic and not adjustable. It is possible to have one cam off a tooth and have it run OK, but not great. You'd probably notice.

Wow. I posted this in Old Gen? DOH! Mods please move. Ran into my friend with the parts car last night. He offered to give it to me if I come get it.

The EG33 is like 3 inches longer, so fitment is much more difficult. Just getting the radiator to fit is a challenge. A/C? Yikes. Also the EG33 was rare and is getting old, parts are getting hard to come by. The EZ30 is newer, and much much more common. I love the EG33, but the EZ is so much more practical.

I have a '97 SVX, I picked it up last fall in trade for basically nothing. Something like 270k miles, been a MN car it's whole life, so very rusty. Runs, moves, but the rear subframe has failed (LR trailing arm is no longer attached). Very good friend of mine has a parts car that would probably give me the rear suspension. So I've been pondering fixing it. I was planning to replace my XT6 in winter beater duty, but since then I picked up a cheap Outback.... I already have a Celica GT convertible for an impractical summer car (Celica has a trailer hitch, so it's more practical than an SVX). Yesterday, a '96 pops up on Craigslist here. 110k miles, looks really nice, failed transmission. I know a guy that builds Subaru 4EATs for drag racing, and will pay about $150 for an SVX core. I know of an Outback 4EAT that I could probably buy for a song. It's either a '98 or '99, I don't think it could reasonably be made work if it's a '99. I have a 4.111 and 4.444 rear diff Option 1, part the '97, and use it's transmission to fix the '96. Stock for stock. And even though I know it was well maintained, it's high-mileage. Option 2, get my hands on a 4.111 or 4.444 4EAT for the '96. Still pretty easy swap, only need the trans and diff, but potentially unknown used transmission condition. Option 3, MT swap the '96. Much better outcome, much more work. I really don't need another project. Have to source parts. Have to fab parts. Option 1 costs me virtually nothing. Selling the '96 core and other parts off the '97 would easily pay for fluids and other things I might need for the swap. 2 & 3 still leaves me the option of fixing or parting the '97. What would you do? While I will probably drive the '96 for awhile, ultimately I'll resell it. So who's sold a MT-swapped SVX? Is there enough value to justify the project?

No seat switch, just door switch. I'd check fuses/relays, then I'd blow out the track with compressed air (sometimes the arm can be prevented from reaching the end of the travel, and therefore tripping the limit switch). Then I'd either live with it (what I've been doing with my XT6), or swap to manual belts.

Higher-than-stock CV angles, and then a CV failed. Certainly related. Might be something else contributing, might have already been worn. Pretty hard to say if the next one will last or not.

Yea, outer CV is broken. I don't think removing strut mount bolts will give you enough play to get the axle out, I think you have to disconnect the lateral links from one end or the other. 3&4. It will do just fine as long as you never demand more than FWD from it. But any power sent to the rear will just get spun away there. Depending on what exactly has happened inside that shaft, it might come loose and cause more damage, might not....

I'm excited to hear about that. We're planning a trip up there for this fall. Probably less intense than you usually do, but I'd still like to see what we find. At the very least, we want to cross the firesteel railroad trestles, and spend a night either on the beach at Keweenaw point, or the island on Schlattner lake (pending finding a decent inflatable boat for cheapish, as it probably doesn't make sense to haul a couple canoes up there just to get to the island).

Well, being that they're chains, when the tensioner goes weak, the chain will jump time, but not break. So it's completely possible that it didn't damage anything else. That said, opening the timing cover alone is a fairly big job. You can get low mileage JDM engines for less than $1000.

What? Subaru never used a 3.454 diff They use 3.545 in the SVX and some newer models pretty sure a PT4WD 3AT would use a 3.70

I know nothing about circle track setups, nor your setup.... but it sounds like you're running RWD, yes? No front axles connected? If that's the case, then you don't need to worry about changing the transmission. Subaru r160s come in 4.44, 4.11, 3.90, 3.70 and 3.54. Pick your gear calculator, and see what the difference in rpms would be at a given speed and tire size. I don't remember if any EJ-platform Subarus used a 3.7, might only be the EA82ts and such. I know the only Subaru to use a 3.54 is the SVX (edit: nope, used on plenty of WRXs, too). Although it's not uncommon for SVX owners to swap to lower ratios, so you might be able to find a decent used one. Nissans also used r160s, and long-nose r180s are also usually a direct swap (pending axle spline counts), so there might be other ratios available that way.

Possible. But much simpler to use flat stock. Go a little thicker than OE, and it should be fine. 3/16" would probably be perfect.

Yep, the link itself was just a pair of flat metal pieces (with some shape stamped in for strength) with 2 holes in them. I assume the bushings are available. I bought a steel sleeve that goes on that bolt inside the bushing for my XT6 this winter... I think they have the older catalogs on here: https://parts.subaru.com/

+1 on your symptoms being a misfire, likely due to lack of spark. The one I saw that made the cat glow was a bad coil.

Subaru recommends conventional oil on the H6s, different resources conflict whether it's 6k or 7500 miles. The research I've seen (there was a report by Blackstone labs last fall that was very interesting on the subject), that the age of the oil matters much more than the type of oil, when it comes to wear. I run the cheapest oil I can find, and change it at or before the recommended interval. I shoot for about 7k on our '04 Outback H6

Semi-loaded comes with bracket, pins, etc. That'll fix the problem. The only time I replace a caliper, is if the bleeder is broken off. But I have an electrolytic rust removal rig set up, brake cylinder hone, thread taps, other cars to drive, etc. It's his daughter's car, so he may not have the time to keep cleaning and lubing and test driving. A $60 caliper is an option, and for many people, it's a reasonable option to just slap a caliper on it and be done with it.

Yep, Bolt is 20540AA001, MSRP of $24.95 Nut is 20550AA010, MSRP of $6.67 Washer is 900335056, MSRP of $1.44, x2 The bushings aren't usually very expensive, and swap pretty easily with a ball joint press. So you might want to replace those instead of fighting with getting the bolt out of it. There's a few different numbers for those, though. If you want to shoot me the last 8 digits of your VIN, I can look those up.

Yep, if everything is working correctly, the pads should wear evenly. So if the outer one was worn more, that tells me the pins are sticking or bottoming out, and not releasing the pressure on that pad. If you swapped the thicker one to the outside, and then had trouble getting the caliper to clear it, that confirms that the pins are not traveling as they should. Overheating brake components can absolutely cause a vibration, so I wouldn't look seriously at steering/tire/bearing problems until you get the brake issue sorted. Take the pads out, bolt the caliper back on, and then move it back and forth on the slides. Sometimes they can move freely individually, but bind when they have to move as a unit. Too much grease can also prevent the pins from compressing all the way. Or, save yourself the time, and buy a remanufactured semi-loaded caliper. The NAPA Eclipse brand ones are a premium BBB reman, and (here anyway) are competitively priced to the unpainted competition from BBB or Cardone.