Numbchux

Cheap DIY traction control is certainly possible. My point is that I don't think the processor on the Arduino is up to do the job very well, I predict a fairly large project, which ends in something that's unable to deal with the inputs fast enough, and sometimes will jump in when you don't need it because it thinks there's wheel slip when there isn't, or it won't detect the slip when you need it to work. I think you'd be better of with something very simple and manual, like line locks. Or something based on more powerful hardware, like a Raspberry PI.

I bet they didn't. New Subaru Imprezas/Foresters were delivered with a 390CCA Panasonic battery (This changed for 2018MY, all models have considerably higher capacity, Impreza/Forester up to 470CCA). These batteries are not available to the dealerships for purchase. The replacement batteries are provided by Interstate, and have 550CCA. IMO, there are 2 things happening here. Cars are getting more and more electronically complex. Computers, modules, actuators, sensors, etc. They draw so much more electricity. Batteries are getting worse. In my experience, it doesn't matter what label, manufacturer, or country, they're just not holding up like they used to. Combine that with the fact that your usage is about as demanding on a battery as it is possible to be, you're pretty much doomed. The higher capacity replacement battery should help, but it's still just a band-aid. You're not driving long enough to replace the energy used to start and operate the car. I know it sucks to have to plug in a new car all the time, but the best and cheapest option is a battery maintainer. You can buy small ones that are designed to be hard-wired to the battery and installed in the car, so you just have a small plug hanging out of the grill somewhere like a block heater, and plug it in when you're not using it. You could also get a deep-cycle and/or dry cell battery, this would hold up better to your usage, but that's a $200+ band-aid. I take very good care of my batteries, I drive about 50 miles a day, 5 days a week, and park in a garage overnight (not heated, but still won't see the -20* mornings we frequently see up here). And when I switch from summer to winter car (or vice versa), the battery comes out of the stored car and gets hooked up to a maintainer for the off season. As such, I buy and use used/warrantied batteries with great luck.

I'd do it, for sure. The EA82 engine does not have a very efficient cooling system, but as long as you keep moving, it should be fine. I drove my Loyale for probably 2 years without any fans, '92 EJ22 swap with stock-replacement all-brass EA82 radiator.

I'm not an expert, but I think it would be very difficult to get an arduino to do that very well. It looks like that build is very simple, using 2 pulses per wheel revolution, and only one output for the lights. And even so, he estimates a 10% error rate. To do it with a car, you'd need a few dozen pulses per revolution, and have 4 outputs for each independent wheel. I don't think the Arduino processor is powerful enough to do that well enough to justify the effort. I'm setting up a little Arduino display to replace the clock in the dash of my Celica, to display a few different variables about the engine (coolant, intake temperature, Wideband AFR, voltage, etc.), and it noticeably flickers as the refresh rate is kinda slow, and I haven't even started with the conversions for the temp sensors, which will require a parabolic equation to accurately calculate, which will probably grind this thing to a halt. It's possible a skilled programmer could make it work, but it's going to have some serious limitations.

I don't know what you're working on.... But I think the EA82s have the air injection manifold between the head and the exhaust, which have mounts 90 degrees off. I remember a post where someone re-welded the flange onto the exhaust pipe 90 degrees off due to stripped holes in the head/air manifold.

Meh, it might be possible... But, the places where you marked to cut and flare are not very accessible, and are probably still fairly rusty. These 2 things will make it very hard to get a clean flare that will seal. Going from there to under the seat is a no-brainer. It's about 4-6" more line on each side, and you'll have much better work space, light, and rust-free line to work with. The other end is a pain, but still not hard. Yes, the factory lines go over the tank, but it's completely reasonable to run them around and up either side of the tank. Grab a coil of NiCopp brake line, this is a cheap source, I've probably bought 3 of these in the last 6 months (I'm in the process of replacing every inch of steel line on my Ford E150 van). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788JTB45/ If you really want to make sure these things outlast the rest of the car, grab some stainless fittings. Here's a metric kit https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Metric-Invert-Fitting/dp/B01KNGVPCC/ I wouldn't bother trying to find a stainless union, if you put them under the seat, they won't be vulnerable to the elements. Plain parts-store items are fine there. This flaring tool makes the double flares a breeze: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24364-Line-Flaring-Tool/dp/B01DO9142G/ When you re-route the lines, make sure they mounted firmly, but rubber-isolated to prevent them from wearing a hole. A little rubber hose and some zip-ties work for that, or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL18300-Cushioned-Aluminum/dp/B003BZQ7EE/

00-02 should have the 276mm front rotors, which will fit under 15s without modification. 03-04 went to 294mm, which will not (without modification). With grinding on the Caliper, it can be done. This is the only picture I currently have uploaded, but I've had these '98 Outback 5-spoke 15s on my '03 and '04 (pictured on the blue '03 here): 20160508_182216 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Nothing will stop it completely, but there are things that can be done to slow it down. I have an '87 4Runner, it saw 10 years or so in Minnesota, then out to Colorado for another 10ish, and back here where I've owned it for 11, and I've never used it in the winter. So it's in good shape, but still has some rust. I've fought it with an angle grinder (with a combination of grinding wheels, flap discs, and wire wheels) to at least get the loose stuff off, if not down to bare metal, POR15, and bedliner. Probably about 6 years ago, I did the lower half of the body and new rear tube bumper, bare metal spots with POR15 first, and then topcoated with DupliColor roll-on bedliner. Last summer, I did the frame. Wire wheel, then POR15 with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Worked great! 20170708_153237 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've since been turned onto a more temporary product called Fluid Film. Which is sort of a waxy coating that would also help seal things out, but it would have to be reapplied at least annually. I might do all 3 on my XT6 this summer.

Nothing will stop it completely, but there are things that can be done to slow it down. I have an '87 4Runner, it saw 10 years or so in Minnesota, then out to Colorado for another 10ish, and back here where I've owned it for 11, and I've never used it in the winter. So it's in good shape, but still has some rust. I've fought it with an angle grinder (with a combination of grinding wheels, flap discs, and wire wheels) to at least get the loose stuff off, if not down to bare metal, POR15, and bedliner. Probably about 6 years ago, I did the lower half of the body and new rear tube bumper, bare metal spots with POR15 first, and then topcoated with DupliColor roll-on bedliner. Last summer, I did the frame. Wire wheel, then POR15 with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Worked great! 20170708_153237 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've since been turned onto a more temporary product called Fluid Film. Which is sort of a waxy coating that would also help seal things out, but it would have to be reapplied at least annually. I might do all 3 on my XT6 this summer.

Blech, that's a terrible offset. So many better options.

Yep, completely botched the description there.....thanks for the correction.

AutoZone parts are generally the same parts you get at any other big box store. They don't make a thing. Suspension parts are frequently Federal-Mogul (who owns Moog, I've seen Moog branded parts in a Duralast box). GD, that story definitely does not reflect the corporate attitude at AutoZone. They're very understanding on warranty claims. But ultimately it's down to the Commercial manager at the store, and sometimes the regional manager in the area.

Yep, Subaru head bolts are not torque to yield, so they can be reused. They can be purchased, and replaced, individually if they have any corrosion or rust on them

If this happened, it was a location-specific thing. I rented the 5x8x6' enclosed trailer, and picked it up with our '03 4-cyl Outback. It had a Subaru 1.25" hitch on it, but they didn't check or ask (this was even at a main U-haul location, not a repair shop with a uhaul franchise or anything). They did notify me when I made the reservation that the trailer was capable of carrying more than the GVWR of the vehicle, but that's it. We definitely overloaded it...too. I've rented smaller trailers from them for use behind that car before as well. I googled "Uhaul 5x8", and quickly found this picture: Their website is pretty clear about what combinations they will and won't let you use. I don't know what's up with all the skepticism here. This is a GREAT option. Renting the trailer alone is cheap. As soon as you rent a truck, you have to pay rental fee plus a mileage rate, which adds up FAST (usually like $.80/mile). The Outback has lots of space in it, 2700 lb towing capacity (assuming a 4-cyl, more for the H6). Throw a little enclosed trailer behind it, and you'll have a bunch of capacity. Yes, you'll be very close to the max weight rating of the car, so you'll have to drive carefully. Take your time, limit yourself to like half throttle, and watch for a temperature warning (maybe even get yourself an OBD II reader of some sort so you can actually monitor coolant and transmission temperatures). The OE Subaru hitch is very nice, and even though they dropped the price last summer, MSRP is still $372.95 for the kit (L101SAL013, includes wiring and draw bar). The end result is very clean, as it's all mounted behind the bumper cover, but that means install is more difficult. There's a company called ECO-hitch that offers a 2" receiver that mounts just like the Subaru one. Otherwise there are 3 or 4 other brands that make more traditional receiver hitches with a crossbar under the bumper which are cheaper and easier to install. Assuming your Outback is a CVT, and not a manual transmission, I would recommend having a dealership change the transmission fluid before and after this trip. Those transmissions are pretty tough, but not cheap, so take good care of it.

I've had a couple sets of winterforces that wore very strangely. The last set was so badly cupped that I swore off them.... They have a new version of them out this year, but they're more expensive. Hakkapeliitas, Blizzaks, and X-ices aren't much more, and are worth every penny.

This sounds like a huge amount of work for negligible gains. I know XT6 parts aren't common, but still hugely simpler/cheaper than fabbing an entire suspension system in there. Especially when the gas tank and a governing body is involved (make sure you check the rules about that. I have a feeling that running a fuel cell in the bed will require some specific precautions).

Subarus are unibody. They are not separate. I've spent a huge amount of time compiling a bunch of this information into a FAQ in the retrofitting section of this forum. Short version is, yes, it's possible. With an adapter plate, a bunch of miscellaneous little parts, and a big helping of work, it's possible. No, engine will not bolt up, but there are adapter plates for that purpose. Not terribly expensive or difficult. Beyond that, there's probably 100 ways to build it. What are you looking to get out of it? An offroader? Autocrosser? What kind of money are you willing to spend on it? What labor are you willing/able to do?

FAR easier to start with an auto trans harness, and strip it to keep engine and trans controls. Theoretically, the Subaru internals are the same as the Nissan RE4R01A transmission, which should mean that this rail shifter should work, but I don't think it's been done: http://www.radesignsproducts.com/rail-controller.html

Luckily I have not had an issue with my OE window antenna or it's amplifier, so I can't offer much on the diagnostic or repair of yours.... But, I have this universal amplified window-mount antenna in my Toyota Celica: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-44-UA200-Universal-Amplified-Antenna/dp/B0007WRQ8K/ My Celica came with a factory power antenna, which broke at some point and a previous owner put a janky universal one in it's place. I patched the hole and painted over it, and mounted that in the top of the windshield and it works great.

There was a rotary-rx that was posted here a few times over the years, probably built at least 15 years ago. IIRC, JWX bought it and swapped it back to an EA82t relatively recently. I think the Subarugears adapter is designed for the EJ transmission, too (a better option, but an interesting difference). Makes the purist in me cringed seeing the hood hacked up like that. But whatever, sweet build.

Subaru started using Immobilizers in the turbo and 6-cyl cars in 2005 and phased them in until 2009 when all models had them. One of the reasons I love my '04 H6.... All new cars are delivered with 2-3 keys. If any have gone missing, it's a good idea to get spares, but also to wipe those old keys out of the system.

Yea, before you can enter the key-adding process, you have to power on the system with a valid key. Now that's with the Subaru software, so it's possible there's something out there, but seems to me a good locksmith would be the one. AFAIK, there are aftermarket keys/software to clone a keys ID, so the computer in the car can't tell it's a new key. But again, without one to clone.....

I work at a Subaru dealership. Adding extra keys is easy, but if there is no working key, it's a big deal. Towed to the dealer, ECU and sometimes gauge cluster removed, shipped to Subaru, wiped, shipped back, reinstalled, and reprogrammed. Yes, the bill is frequently 4-digits. To the OP, I'm sorry this happened to you. I don't have another suggestion. If a good locksmith doesn't know a way, I doubt that there is one. To everyone else. Let this be a lessen. You might be afraid of a $250 bill for an extra immobilizer key, but if you loose all the keys, you're in for a much bigger headache. The idea of an immobilizer seems great, making cars extremely difficult to steal. But when you're the legitimate owner just trying to get a key, it's a huge pain.

That's a head scratcher, for sure. Keep us posted! I know the conversation has moved on, but I hate this kind of mis-information. I know a lot of people prefer to remove those screens, and that's fine. But it is NOT directly from Subaru. In fact, if you buy a Turbo from Subaru, it will not be warrantied unless you replace the turbo feed screen. Attached is the real Subaru TSB Banjo Bolt.pdf

The baja is the same chassis as the 00-04 Legacy and Outback. Outback struts/springs would bolt right on, and give very similar ride height to the stock baja. You could definitely use the struts/springs from a standard Legacy to drop your baja. FYI, the Baja and Outback have spacers on all the suspension crossmembers, and many of the mounts are shaped differently to accomodate the taller ride height. Many people drop them without removing this, but it will effect the roll center, and dynamic camber of the vehicle. Also, FYI. $1000 is cheap for coilovers.