Numbchux

Subaru engines have been done in RWD cars, many times. But yea, the Subaru drivetrain requires the engine be completely in front of the front wheels. I think by the time you placed the transmission so the front diff was in the right place, you'd have no room for an engine. But yea, it's just fabrication. Completely possible, with time and skill (both can be substituted with money), but it's going to take a lot of both. Luckily, a Z-car uses an r160 rear differential, so the rear suspension shouldn't have to be modified, just swap in the appropriate ratio diff, and carry on. But the front is going to be a project. People have done STi swaps into almost everything. Wiring is extremely well documented. '04 STi won't be immobilizer, so using the stock ECU is relatively simple. Newer stuff has been done, but with the immobilizer, requires matching at least the gauge cluster and ECU, probably more. Again, this is all well-documented. Yep, A/C, totally doable. Usually all you need is controlled off the ECU. Usually the mechanics of mounting a condenser, accumulator, expansion valve, maybe evaporator, running lines is the hard part. With all the electrical work that needs to be done, you won't even noticed the few extra wires for A/C. Major swaps are always easier with a donor vehicle. You know you have everything, and you know it works. But piecing it together is possible, too. www.jdmfsm.info

I see nothing in here that says there even is a problem. IMHO, all this speculation about different causes are pointless until we get an actual temperature on the engine. 4 different temp sensors say nothing is wrong.

+1 for not strong enough and not corrected for camber.

The spiral on the stub that goes in the diff is different side to side, which is why the seals are side-specific as well. STi is a whole different animal, of course. And yes, GD rear track is wider than GG just like the front.

Check out Oak Leaf Auto Salvage. They're in northern WI, and specialize in Subarus. I've seen several complete 6MT/r180 kits sold for pretty reasonable. I bought the front clip to fix my Outback from them, and they strapped it all to a pallet and shipped it to my work (we had a loading dock at the AutoZone I worked at at the time). You might also check out TSS Fab, they were trying to put together a batch of 6MT 4.444 ring/pinions on their facebook page this winter. I'm not sure if it ever happened, though.

Vibration is powerful at working hardware loose. That's why many suspension components have cotter pins (tie rod ends, ball joints, old-gen axle nuts), or use locking nuts (sway links, new gen axle nuts). That's why virtually every fastener on an airplane has safety wire through it (my wife works at Cirrus Aircraft). Not to mention corrosion. A fastener torqued to the minimum spec becomes rusted solid. On most hardware, there's a fine line between adequately torqued and broken. So I don't think mechanics are just slamming their impact wrench on everything and hammering it home. Even with the right tools and experience to extract a broken bolt, it's still a crappy job, and most mechanics are paid by the job, which means broken bolts come out of their pocket. Ever had something major fall off your car? I've had a couple wheels fall off, a brake drum (which, of course, took the wheel with it), ball joint, brake caliper. Not to mention many close saves. I'll take every minute of struggling with tough hardware over one of those.

Warranty void Recalls still valid If you go to the dealer, they will run the VIN specifically to check for recalls and for a salvage title. Interestingly enough, if you buy a Subaru part over the counter, and it fails in the 1 year warranty. When the claim is submitted to SOA for reimbursement, we have to put the VIN on the claim. If the car is salvaged, they won't even cover the parts warranty. That's pretty rare, the one time we saw it, we covered the part cost at our dealership, but corporate wiped their hands of it.

This! As mentioned, this car has 2 temp sensors, one for the ECU (which controls the fans) and one for the gauge. You've tested the fan circuitry, and all appears to be working. So I'm assuming that the ECU does not think the engine is hot (this could be verified with a scan tool). Your gauge reads fine. You've replaced one of the sensors, even if it's the wrong one, you've got 3 sensors telling you the engine is not overheating. Those sensors are mounted in the coolant bridge right over the cylinders, even with zero forced coolant circulation, thermosiphoning would bring the hottest coolant to them. The only symptom of overheating is a smell. If you want to verify it, get your hands on an infrared thermometer. I bought one last fall on Amazon, it was pretty cheap ($10?), and has been really useful for a lot of things (I found a couple weak links in the insulation of our house this winter....probably paid for itself right there). Point it right at that coolant bridge, it shouldn't be much warmer than the opening temp of the thermostat.

GD (02-07 Impreza Sedan) definitely has wider track than yours. '02-'04ish (when they went to male inner) should have the same splines as yours. I just checked on the 10 forester, 8mm

Meh, looks like an allen key and a socket would thread right out. But I'm hesitant to do it on a customer transmission that's just out for a clutch job. I punched the VIN on the 10 forester, and crossed the part number for the 3-4 gearset, and it was used back to 2004. So I assume it is cut for that. But the 12 Impreza number was not used on older cars, so it could go either way.

Yep, I just walked out in the shop. We have manual transmissions out of a 10 forester, 08 Impreza, and 17 WRX. No surprise the cable-shifted 6-speed from the 17 WRX is different. But yep, the plug was there for the Impreza and Forester. We also have a 4EAT for a 10 Forester, that one doesn't have the casting. That must be what I was thinking of, sorry. Of course, of all of those, we don't have a 12-16 Impreza one out.

Well, I was certainly not correct on this, there's speedometer parts and even a note for the transmission case about having that hole until about 2006. Of course, none of that applies to the 12-16. I did a considerable search in the 12 Impreza FSM, and I cannot find a VSS listed anywhere. With the CAN system, it's hard to trace where the cluster gets the signal from, but the only speed sensors I can find are the 4 ABS/VDC wheel speed sensors The spiral for the speedometer gear is on the 3-4 gearset, so it might be possible to swap that and the case....but there are a lot more variables with that.

I can't, the AA070 supersedes back to the begninning of the 4EAT. They use the same circlip, but the side gear in the front differential changed at the same time, so it's possible they have a different spline count. The newer side gear (38423AA120, older 38423AA040) is the same up until current, though. I know that the spline count between the older 4EAT, and manual is the same, pretty sure it was 25 spline. Looking at the aftermarket listings, the inner splines are also 25. So it might be interchangeable.

There's a mid-year split in 2012 for clutch parts, but the input shaft did not change back to the beginning of 2012MY. Early clutch disc fits back to 2003, so the spline count should be the same. Clutch lever is the same back to the '90s, push-style I've never seen, transfer clutches in a manual. I just checked all the Impreza diagrams, and they all use a regular center diff. I was under the impression that the phase 2 cases changed, and no longer had the boss for the old-style speed sensor. But I'll search that more in a minute

I'll start looking things up as I have time here at work. 02-06 AT (I think just 4EAT, but the catalog is not super specific without a VIN) and 04 STi use the same stub axle (38415AA110) From the 2012 Impreza FSM, 2016 Impreza same (Crosstrek has 4.444, and lower 1st and 5th). gears, 3.454, 1.888, 1.296, 0.972, 0.738. R 3.333 Front 4.111, 1:1 transfer, rear 4.111 No axle or driveshaft spline counts listed....

Cheap DIY traction control is certainly possible. My point is that I don't think the processor on the Arduino is up to do the job very well, I predict a fairly large project, which ends in something that's unable to deal with the inputs fast enough, and sometimes will jump in when you don't need it because it thinks there's wheel slip when there isn't, or it won't detect the slip when you need it to work. I think you'd be better of with something very simple and manual, like line locks. Or something based on more powerful hardware, like a Raspberry PI.

I bet they didn't. New Subaru Imprezas/Foresters were delivered with a 390CCA Panasonic battery (This changed for 2018MY, all models have considerably higher capacity, Impreza/Forester up to 470CCA). These batteries are not available to the dealerships for purchase. The replacement batteries are provided by Interstate, and have 550CCA. IMO, there are 2 things happening here. Cars are getting more and more electronically complex. Computers, modules, actuators, sensors, etc. They draw so much more electricity. Batteries are getting worse. In my experience, it doesn't matter what label, manufacturer, or country, they're just not holding up like they used to. Combine that with the fact that your usage is about as demanding on a battery as it is possible to be, you're pretty much doomed. The higher capacity replacement battery should help, but it's still just a band-aid. You're not driving long enough to replace the energy used to start and operate the car. I know it sucks to have to plug in a new car all the time, but the best and cheapest option is a battery maintainer. You can buy small ones that are designed to be hard-wired to the battery and installed in the car, so you just have a small plug hanging out of the grill somewhere like a block heater, and plug it in when you're not using it. You could also get a deep-cycle and/or dry cell battery, this would hold up better to your usage, but that's a $200+ band-aid. I take very good care of my batteries, I drive about 50 miles a day, 5 days a week, and park in a garage overnight (not heated, but still won't see the -20* mornings we frequently see up here). And when I switch from summer to winter car (or vice versa), the battery comes out of the stored car and gets hooked up to a maintainer for the off season. As such, I buy and use used/warrantied batteries with great luck.

I'd do it, for sure. The EA82 engine does not have a very efficient cooling system, but as long as you keep moving, it should be fine. I drove my Loyale for probably 2 years without any fans, '92 EJ22 swap with stock-replacement all-brass EA82 radiator.

I'm not an expert, but I think it would be very difficult to get an arduino to do that very well. It looks like that build is very simple, using 2 pulses per wheel revolution, and only one output for the lights. And even so, he estimates a 10% error rate. To do it with a car, you'd need a few dozen pulses per revolution, and have 4 outputs for each independent wheel. I don't think the Arduino processor is powerful enough to do that well enough to justify the effort. I'm setting up a little Arduino display to replace the clock in the dash of my Celica, to display a few different variables about the engine (coolant, intake temperature, Wideband AFR, voltage, etc.), and it noticeably flickers as the refresh rate is kinda slow, and I haven't even started with the conversions for the temp sensors, which will require a parabolic equation to accurately calculate, which will probably grind this thing to a halt. It's possible a skilled programmer could make it work, but it's going to have some serious limitations.

I don't know what you're working on.... But I think the EA82s have the air injection manifold between the head and the exhaust, which have mounts 90 degrees off. I remember a post where someone re-welded the flange onto the exhaust pipe 90 degrees off due to stripped holes in the head/air manifold.

Meh, it might be possible... But, the places where you marked to cut and flare are not very accessible, and are probably still fairly rusty. These 2 things will make it very hard to get a clean flare that will seal. Going from there to under the seat is a no-brainer. It's about 4-6" more line on each side, and you'll have much better work space, light, and rust-free line to work with. The other end is a pain, but still not hard. Yes, the factory lines go over the tank, but it's completely reasonable to run them around and up either side of the tank. Grab a coil of NiCopp brake line, this is a cheap source, I've probably bought 3 of these in the last 6 months (I'm in the process of replacing every inch of steel line on my Ford E150 van). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788JTB45/ If you really want to make sure these things outlast the rest of the car, grab some stainless fittings. Here's a metric kit https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Metric-Invert-Fitting/dp/B01KNGVPCC/ I wouldn't bother trying to find a stainless union, if you put them under the seat, they won't be vulnerable to the elements. Plain parts-store items are fine there. This flaring tool makes the double flares a breeze: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24364-Line-Flaring-Tool/dp/B01DO9142G/ When you re-route the lines, make sure they mounted firmly, but rubber-isolated to prevent them from wearing a hole. A little rubber hose and some zip-ties work for that, or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL18300-Cushioned-Aluminum/dp/B003BZQ7EE/

00-02 should have the 276mm front rotors, which will fit under 15s without modification. 03-04 went to 294mm, which will not (without modification). With grinding on the Caliper, it can be done. This is the only picture I currently have uploaded, but I've had these '98 Outback 5-spoke 15s on my '03 and '04 (pictured on the blue '03 here): 20160508_182216 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Nothing will stop it completely, but there are things that can be done to slow it down. I have an '87 4Runner, it saw 10 years or so in Minnesota, then out to Colorado for another 10ish, and back here where I've owned it for 11, and I've never used it in the winter. So it's in good shape, but still has some rust. I've fought it with an angle grinder (with a combination of grinding wheels, flap discs, and wire wheels) to at least get the loose stuff off, if not down to bare metal, POR15, and bedliner. Probably about 6 years ago, I did the lower half of the body and new rear tube bumper, bare metal spots with POR15 first, and then topcoated with DupliColor roll-on bedliner. Last summer, I did the frame. Wire wheel, then POR15 with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Worked great! 20170708_153237 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've since been turned onto a more temporary product called Fluid Film. Which is sort of a waxy coating that would also help seal things out, but it would have to be reapplied at least annually. I might do all 3 on my XT6 this summer.

Nothing will stop it completely, but there are things that can be done to slow it down. I have an '87 4Runner, it saw 10 years or so in Minnesota, then out to Colorado for another 10ish, and back here where I've owned it for 11, and I've never used it in the winter. So it's in good shape, but still has some rust. I've fought it with an angle grinder (with a combination of grinding wheels, flap discs, and wire wheels) to at least get the loose stuff off, if not down to bare metal, POR15, and bedliner. Probably about 6 years ago, I did the lower half of the body and new rear tube bumper, bare metal spots with POR15 first, and then topcoated with DupliColor roll-on bedliner. Last summer, I did the frame. Wire wheel, then POR15 with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Worked great! 20170708_153237 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've since been turned onto a more temporary product called Fluid Film. Which is sort of a waxy coating that would also help seal things out, but it would have to be reapplied at least annually. I might do all 3 on my XT6 this summer.

Blech, that's a terrible offset. So many better options.