Numbchux

The dealership I work at charges $35 for programming immobilizer keys. We just got a new cutting machine to do face/laser cut keys (I don't think an '08 OBK uses those, though) which was not cheap, so we're charging $55 to cut those. These will not be standardized at all dealer-to-dealer, though. So just call yours, and see what they say. Immobilizer cars can only have up to 4 keys programmed to them at a time. And any keys that have gone missing and are not present when adding new ones should be removed from the computer, and will no longer start the car.

It's possible. Only the 00-09 Legacy/Outback/Baja uses that style rear suspension, and they all use the exact same arm. So I think the only explanations are that something else is out of whack, or that that piece isn't right (presumably a fluke, Dorman's usually decent). When it comes to a toe adjustment, they have to be very precise, as little as 1/4" can be a huge problem. I just measured a new OE one, and it looks like 10 13/16" bolt center to center. Probably impossible to get an accurate measurement on the car, though, as those bushings need to be completely unloaded. FYI, OE number is 20250AE06A.

If it's physical ice on the outside of the car, it will need to be physically removed before the flap will open. Your key can work, but be careful not to scratch the paint... A semi-gentle hit with a fist on the outside frequently busts up the ice enough to release the door. Otherwise carefully scraping with something plastic (a credit card, window scraper handle, etc.). Yea, water would probably do it, but if it's ice-storm cold, that bottle is probably frozen too.

I work in parts at a Subaru dealership. I work with a guy who has worked at a dealership that carried Subaru since the '70s. He has all the old Microfiche catalogs. Certainly back to the early '70s, including the FF-1 and similar. He will not sell these, and probably wouldn't even sleep well if I took them home for the evening. But I feel tempted to preserve/share these by digitizing. There are 2 parts to this. Scanning. This would have to be done here, or maybe at my house. So I'd have to get my hands on a very high resolution scanner. A quick google search says 7200dpi should be sufficient. I see stuff with that or better on Amazon for less than $200. Would anyone be willing to pitch in for this? Recommendations? Better sources? This would provide one huge image file with the entire catalog on it, that would need to be cropped and put into a format that would be easier to read (probably .pdf). With an infant daughter, I probably do not have time to do this, but it would be easy enough to send the raw image file to be processed. Any volunteers?

Suspension is basically identical to the EA82. There's nothing "performance" made specifically for it. FWD XT front struts will drop the front. But nothing that easy for the rear (FWD rear shocks are actually longer because the mount on the arm is located differently). There are fairly universal coilover sleeve spring kits that can be put on, but generally they're sprung very stiff, and will yield a terrible ride (good handling on smooth surfaces, my Loyale did very well at AutoXs). 5-lug swap opens up a ton of options. Better brakes, suspension, etc. But you'd be very lucky to put that together for $500. I've compiled a LOT more information on these subjects into a FAQ in the retrofitting section here....check it out.

I definitely know people who have switched to 5w30 syn to reduce consumption. A 2014 should be outside the problem range for that engine, but it might be worth consulting your local dealership to have it tested and see if you might be eligible for a free shortblock.

Mechanically fairly simple. Wiring is a big job. You'll either have to cut up both harnesses to make a hybrid harness to control the EZ30 with the Legacy body stuff. Or, swap basically the entire dash. All H6s have automatic temperature control, so the controller for that and the heater box is all different. Gauge cluster is different. IIRC, all H6s have side airbags, so in order to make that system happy, you'll need the front seats. If your H6 donor car is a VDC, that opens a whole other can of worms. For your sake, I hope it's an LL Bean. Much much easier to swap the 5MT into the Outback.

Most cars will not allow you to use the re circulation setting while in defrost, for exactly the reason that you're stating. Where does your temperature gauge typically read? I suspect you have a weak thermostat, preventing the engine from getting all the way up to temperature, which limits the amount of heat energy the heater core is able to transfer to the air passing through it. If it's pulling air from the interior, it's already somewhat warm, and it's much more efficient. But pulling from outside it just cannot keep up.

I don't think any come with the bearing. And they stopped offering them around 2004

The T100 has a wider frame than the regular pickups. So it has the longer CV axles, but the exact same control arms. All the width and non of the travel.... 3.4 isn't exactly a powerhouse either, but in stock form it's decent. But more importantly, it's a proven solid platform for boost. You could have even had a supercharger put on it at the dealer. I no very little in real offroad desert/baja racing. But from my experience with rally, dampers can make a HUGE difference. Just on Ziptie Rally #171 we went from some custom-built (allwheelsdriven, IIRC) housings for Bilstein dampers, which were better than stock but only just, and bent after about 2 events. We switched to RS&SP 2-way adjustables, and the improvement was night and day. Then for the last year or so we got some RS&SP 4-way adjustables (which have remote reservoirs), and again, night and day. Had to be sent to Argentina for a rebuild, though. Now, in rally, you're really only getting one good hit at a time, not like hitting whoops. But the extra reservoirs are specifically to keep the fluid cool under continuous use. Anyway, my point is maybe don't get hung up so much on the wheel travel number. By switching to a dual a-arm platform and running a conventional shock instead of a strut might allow for much better dampers, which might yeild the performance you're looking for.

Yea, the ones that are fairly easy to long travel were only available with the 2.4 22RE, or the 3.sl0. I do have a GM 4.3 from a '92 S-10 Blazer, which fits very well. And I've got a Toyota tcase in the stock location. The T100/Tacoma/4Runner 3.4 is a common swap (which I'm thinking of doing as I'm having issues with the FI on the 4.3), I've seen the Lexus 4.0 V8 done, not to mention every sort of domestic V8.

Theoretically that's possible, but I think it'll take some creativity in finding a switch that functions that way. It would need to have one circuit closed in #1 & #2, but open in #3, and the other circuit closed in #1 and open in #2 & #3. Might be easier to use a more traditional DPDT 3-way to control an SPDT relay to reverse the polarity of the Duty C circuit.

Yep, I'm exaggerating the delay, but it's still pretty noticeable IMHO.

Yea, I didn't word that very well. I meant that the limiting factor is the length of the axle. Lengthening a control arm, or tie rod isn't difficult for a half decent fabricator, but lengthening an axle shaft..... That's why I was thinking maybe an STi axle might give you a bit extra width, but probably not much. Actually, the more I think about it, the more I think an older ('86-'95) Toyota might be a good option. Those T-100 axles make for a relatively easy long-travel setup (have to lengthen all 4 control arms and both tie rods). Total Chaos claims 12" w/ 4WD out of their kit. The sky is the limit when it comes to engine/transmission/transfer case/axle options. Also the dual a-arm design means shocks are very universal, so really high-end shocks are relatively cheap. http://www.chaosfab.com/86-95-4WD-Pickup-4Runner-T100-Long-Travel-Suspension-Kit-95200.html

The way you described it earlier in this post, AWD to "unlocked" 4WD (gauranteeing you have power to the front and rear simultaneously. But you still have open diffs at the front and rear). So in AWD mode it would wait for the front to spin a bit before sending power to the rear, in 4WD it sends it to both simultaneously.

Yea, CV axles is usually the limiting factor with long-travel independent. I was really tempted by a long-travel kit for the older Toyotas that uses off-the-shelf axles for a T100, but I think I'm moving away from my 4Runner. You might be able to find an STi axle or something that would give you an inch or so....

It's not even remotely that simple. And again, not all AWD is the same. Most Subaru 4EATs apply power almost exclusively to the front until it detects the front start to slip, and then power goes to the back, because they don't actually have a center differential. Manual transmissions and VDC cars supply power evenly to both front and rear, but have some sort of LSD to prevent too much speed differentiation. Your description of 4WD locked and unlocked describes both front and rear differentials being locked or unlocked, which is very rare on a factory vehicle, occasionally an off-road package will come with a true rear locker, not just an LSD, and even then there's usually nothing to limit slip in the front. I had our '04 Outback VDC in the deep stuff behind my garage this weekend pulling out my utility trailer which has been parked since late last summer. It did better than any EA Subaru I've ever had, the only time I had any trouble, was breaking through the bank left from the snowblower, towing the snow-laden trailer with one tire completely flat. Even then, a little gentle rocking and it had no trouble.

That exact list will probably only work on the early stuff, '90s, maybe a bit into the '00s. That said, it's almost certainly possible that an alternator could be made work (electrically) that's much newer. But the exact wire count, colors, and function may change a bit.

The AWD system with the automatic is a FWD transmission with some power sent to the rear as an afterthought. Only once the TCU detects a difference in speed between the front and rear does it send a decent amount of power to the back. By manually selecting 1st gear, it does make that program more agressive, so it's a bit less noticeable. Also, it's pretty easy to add a switch inline to the power wire to the transmission solenoid that controls the AWD and lock it down as tight as it can (well documented, you're looking for the duty C solenoid). An Outback is a MUCH heavier vehicle than an EA82, so it feels much more cumbersome, much harder to control it's momentum. I have owned many 4WD EA82s (To be fair, either D/R 4WD or FT4WD, never push button, but the 4WD functionality is the same with it locked in), and EJs and living in northern MN, I'm no stranger to snow. It is a completely different animal than the old EA82s. I almost swore off Subarus a couple years ago when I was driving a '99 Outback SUS 4EAT. I went up the driveway to my buddies shop that had not been plowed since the last storm. There's a section right by the shop that's off camber, and I slid off the driveway. I managed to get it pointed the right way, but it took me hours with a shovel, jack, and some dimensional lumber to get it back on the flat ground again. In hindsight, the AWD let me down, but mostly the Primewell tires let me down. The AWD system with a manual transmission, however, is very similar to the old 4WD. I also frequent the local ORV park up here, which used to be an iron ore pit mine, so it's mostly rock crawling, where gearing and diffs are crucial. I haven't had a conventional 4EAT up there, but every other version. Again, the EJ 5MTs don't have much of a traction disadvantage from the EA82s unless it gets really nasty, and even then typically it's the front and rear diffs that let them down, not the center, and gearing. Our '04 Outback VDC (much more like the MT AWD) does very well, need to get it lifted and skidplated to really push it.

Automatic or Manual transmission? The way the AWD system functions is very different.

This means you have bigger issues than the ECU. Even without the ECU it should crank over. First thing I would do is put a socket (22mm, IIRC) on the crank and see if you can rotate the engine by hand. Rule out seized or hydrolocked. Then check for power getting to the starter (the heavy wire to the stud on the starter should always be hot, small wire on the spade should be hot with the key in "start"). If it's getting power, it's probably the starter, if it doesn't it's electrical (security system, ignition switch, neutral switch, wiring etc.) And I would definitely agree that it needs all fluids, rear diff, transmission/front diff (separate fluids if it's an auto), and oil at the very least. My dad and I resurrected a flood car many years ago. '94 Legacy, had water partway up the doors, well over the hubs. We had a parts car, so we swapped the carpet, door cards, and seats. We stripped that stuff out, pulled the ECU and ABS unit out and apart and let them dry in the sun for a few days, changed all the fluids, repacked the wheel bearings, and drove it for another 100k miles (had about 260k on it when we parted it out, then I put the engine in a '96 Outback which got at least another 20k before it was sold). We never had mystery electrical gremlins or anything. Of course a '94 has a lot less electronics than an '05, but I'd think it'd be worth a shot.

I just did that O ring on our Outback, old one was as hard as plastic. MSRP on it from the dealer was less than $2. That and a couple worm clamps on the suction hose seem to have solved my fluid aeration problem.

I think that car should be a 2.2, not common for head gasket failure. And head gasket symptoms usually get worse with speed, and involve coolant loss. I think the easiest thing to check (although it seems fairly unlikely), is whether the fans are coming on. When it's good and hot, stop and pop the hood and see if they're both running. It doesn't take much driving at all to push enough air through the radiator, though. I had a failed fan in our Outback 3.0 for over a year and the only time it ran warm was offroading in June, slow trails with lots of trees and the A/C on.... Thermostats very rarely stick shut (I've honestly never seen it, and I've tested several), but it's cheap enough, and some fresh coolant can't hurt. I would also recommend pulling the radiator when you have the system drained, and make sure the fins are clean. The fins are spaced out more in the A/C condenser, and debris can accumulate between them blocking the airflow.

A/C tensioner/idler (aftermarket usually lists as an idler) is relatively common. If the bearing seizes it'll frequently damage some of the hardware around it. Pull the belt and check the pulley. If that bearing feels rough, replace it. If you catch it before it wrecks other stuff, you can replace just the bearing.

Incorrect. wtdash is correct that the Forester stuck with 5x100, where the Legacy/Outback line switched to 5x114.3 in 2015 They will not bolt up. Also, FYI. All Legacies have at least 17s these days, some with 18s.