Numbchux

It's certainly possible that it's not charging and you don't have a warning light. Get a Multi-Meter (if you don't have one, get one. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, it's about $5), and test the voltage across the battery while running. Should be ~14.5v. Or, go to almost any auto parts store, they usually have a hand-held battery/alternator tester that they can bring out to the parking lot and test it quick. Does the battery light come on when you first turn the key on? If the warning bulb burns out the alternator will not charge.

I second this post completely. They are double/inverted flares, with M10x1.0 fittings. I took this picture of the repair I made on my '97 about a year and a half ago, this is under the back seat. I replaced all the steel hard line that is exposed under the back of the car. There's a factory junction block just under here, but it's usually badly rusted, I just bypass it entirely. 2017-08-09_08-16-18 by Numbchux, on Flickr Use an inline flaring tool, like this. Makes flaring the line a breeze, especially in the car. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DO9142G?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-a0032-win10-other-nomod-us000-pcomp-feature-scomp-wm-4-wl-ddt0_sce0_prc0_aapi0&ref=bit_scomp_sav0 You'll need a small tubing cutter, as well. Nothing special there. Cheapest source for the NiCopp Line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788JTB45/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 On my latest project, I used stainless fittings, too..... https--,,--//www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Metric-Invert-Fitting/dp/B01KNGVPCC/ Then you'll just need a pair of unions. These are the exact ones that I used, but they're cheaper at your local auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Brake-Union-M10x1-0-Inverted/dp/B001O09HVI/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1515186248&sr=1-6&keywords=brake+line+union+metric

Lights dim with electrical load while running? Car wouldn't start after a long drive? Sounds to me like you have a charging problem, not a battery problem.

I wonder which one of my coworkers you spoke to.... Yep, factory battery was 356cca, they're finally puttying 490cca ones in them for 2018. Subaru replacement batteries come from Interstate, and are 550cca (That SOA part number you listed).

Factory recommendation is to leave the RH lower idler off, install the belt, and then install that idler. I do that, line up the marks on the top side of the belt then slip the belt between the cogged idler and water pump, then install the last idler. I've had a couple fight me, and it seemed to help not to torque down the other pullies loose until the belt is on.

There's a reason TTB is so popular with the Baja guys. The Dana 44 version has very long "arms", and is pretty beefy. I've been doing a lot of research on 4WD vans (I just bought a ford conversion van), and there's a company down in California that's getting like 15" of travel from a Dana 50 TTB (much shorter arms than the 44), under a full-size van. I'm leaning towards something like that under mine. It's pretty crucial to get the mounts set up correctly at ride height, as that's what effects all the alignment angles.

Yea, what's this on? I've often thought about it on my cars, but never followed through.

Megasquirt is powerful, but very much open-source. That brings along a lot of challenges. There are a few different injection and ignition methods, and they have different requirements for sensors. With batch fire/wasted spark, it can be done with just a fairly low-resolution crank trigger. For full sequential, you'll need much better signals. There's a guy here in MN setting up an EG33 on MS, and while the stock trigger wheels give enough resolution, the stock sensors themselves are not reliable enough, and he was getting nasty sync loss. So he made custom adapter brackets to mount aftermarket hall effect sensors in the stock positions to improve the reliability so he can run reliable sequential injection/ignition. Then come the turbos.... Run something commercially developed, and you'll have much more support, and more consistent information (Open source means you're searching the whole of the internet for build threads and write-ups, and some of it is current and most of it isn't...). You'll pay 2-6x as much, but it'll be much easier to work with.

Yep, a shift kit would firm things up and prevent slippage. Power mode changes shift points, line pressure, and AWD function.

When using EJ axles, the inner joints are more compressed than on an EJ car. Some people have reported that they bottom out. Technically using EJ knuckles shortens the tie rod assembly slightly, it's a negligible change when driving straight, but that small change relative to the ball joint really improves the ackermann angle (while turning, the inside wheel turns sharper than the outside).

Don't take anything apart, just get it in the air and get under there and see if that axle is seated in the transmission. If it's not, my preferred method is to pop the ball joint out of the control arm, and swing the whole knuckle assembly in until the joint bottoms out and you can sort of use it like a slide hammer to pop it back in.

I have seen axles not fully engaged into the transmission/rear diff. Never seen an EJ hub stripped.

Very interesting, and I'm sure it'll be a fun car. Yea, those transfer gears typically don't hold up well to being the sole output, but the light weight and relatively low power levels here will help. Might want to start budgeting to upgrade those. Custom driveshaft, I assume? Seems like a pretty niche market. Someone with the time and skill to assemble an engine, and notch the crossmember and framerail, but wants some bolt-on brackets? Probably a great candidate for a BRZ transmission, or Bill's bellhousing to a Toyota RWD transmission.

OK, well, that is kind of strange. Regardless, though, your car doesn't have the CVT, it's a 4EAT. So a CVT will behave very differently. Go test-drive it, you might like it. The infinitely-variable ratios might suit your driving style better.

Yea, I'm a bit unclear on the complaint. Especially since the Imprezas didn't get the CVT until 2012, your 2011 has a conventional automatic. A new Outback is only available with a CVT, no manual or conventional auto since 2014. It is a second revision of the CVT that gets fewer complaints than the older ones. That said, I drive my mom's 2012 Impreza Premium (CVT with paddle shifters) all the time and I like it, it's different, but does exactly what it was designed to do, and I've never experienced anything that I would call bucking or shifting as long as I was being consistent with the throttle.

Where did the replacement parts come from? Remanufactured? We've had terrible luck with remanufactured power steering components lately. We've had several Subarus in for pumps, reman one non-functional out of the box, warrantied once or twice before we give up and put a new OE one in, which works perfectly. Get a decent used pump and try that.

I used an XT rack in my Loyale. It was a direct swap, it was a quicker ratio, but only barely. IMHO not worth the work unless you have to replace the rack anyway.

On flat ground, yes. But as the suspension travels, the control arm and steering link both move in an arc. If they're not the same length, they will not move in the same arc. I did a quick google search and found this picture. It's a little oversimplified as it shows those arcs above horizontal, but a cars travel is completely below horizontal. And I would illustrate it with the 2 arcs overlapping at ride height....but the basic property is the same

Shortening the steering linkage will effect how the toe changes through the suspension travel. That's what we're talking about, shortened rods has been done but you end up with bump steer.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/

These cars are not known for stripping splines like the '80s cars, so that doesn't surprise me. But, no, it doesn't change anything. The AWD system for virtually all Automatic Transmission Subarus is very front-biased. Once the computer detects the front wheels slipping, then it sends power to the rear. That said, your car should try to move with a broken axle (VERY bad for it, maybe someone already tried and burned out the transfer clutches). Manually selecting 1 or 2 on the shifter will help, but still allow quite a bit of slip. FWD fuse should be used with the spare tire, it is NOT sufficient for towing. Make sure there is not a fuse in there. If there isn't a fuse, you'll probably need transfer clutches and/or a duty C solenoid. It's not a terrible job to replace them, and relatively common, so a moderately-sized or bigger Subaru dealer will probably have seen it before and be able to recommend a parts list.

Yep, while Nissan and Subaru are pretty distinctly separate companies, the stuff that they didn't design and build in house frequently saw some overlap. Some automatic transmission internals are probably the only thing so closely related between the Pathfinder and Outback...but still. At the very least, when functioning correctly, neither transmission should make a different sound than the other. Still leaves a lot of possibilities what you might be hearing. I have Nissan rear brake calipers on my XT6, zero modification required.

Wow, I'm impressed. We've had a lot of people come on here and say they're going to do this, but once they realize the difficulty.....yikes. To my knowledge, it's only been done one other time. Keep the information coming, and I'll add it to the FAQ. I suspect you'll need custom axle shafts, as the EA81 front crossmember will have narrowed your track width fairly considerably.

First off, your 2007 is not a CVT. the 2.5i Limited was only available with either a 5- or 4-speed automatic. The 4-speed is VERY similar internals to what was in your pathfinder. I can't speak to what the noise might be, sounds like it could be anything from a gear or bearing problem, to interference in the radio, or something vibrating somewhere. I'd recommend buying a Haynes manual. They're about $40, and will have a lot of information on how to do these things. And I'm sure with a little searching you can find how-tos on fluid changes on Subarus, most of them are the same. Subaru maintenance schedule (this is in your owner's manual, too): http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html Factory service manual and owners manual online: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2007/ Maintenance schedule says to inspect the transmission and differential fluids every 30k miles. At the dealership where I work, we drain and fill (draining doesn't get everything out of the transmission, so it's not a fluid change) it every time. That would be excellent maintenance. Personally I do it more like 60k. Flushing fluid is generally overkill, and disconnecting cooler lines and such can open another can of worms. Conventional green coolant is fine, any 75w90 GL-5 gear oil (very common). Transmission calls for Subaru HP fluid, which is a full synthetic. I don't know if there's any aftermarket fluid that meets this standard. Tires are extremely specific to personal preference, usage, and climate. Might be a good idea to check with your local Subaru dealership and see what they recommend. Spark plugs, NGK or OE. Probably a FR5AP-1 or 22401AA65A. The cylinder heads are off to the sides, but the plugs are on the top side of them. You have to remove a couple things to get access (air filter box and washer fluid tank, IIRC), but it's not bad.

Legacy Brighton/L MT = 3.9 Legacy Brighton/L AT = 4.11 Legacy GT AT = 4.11 Outback H6 = 4.11 Outback/Baja AT = 4.44 Outback/Baja MT = 4.11 Turbo Baja = 4.44 All of those except the '04+ Baja use the same (superseded) part number. For the '02 model year, they got a better paint that is more rust resistant, so an '02+ used one is preferrable, the '00-'01 part number supersedes to the '02+ number. FYI, the Subaru part number is 20152AE00B, and MSRP is $339.22