Numbchux

Interested. Probably not high on my budget, but could be a rare opportunity for a legit locker. FWIW, I'd be looking at EJ-style axles, specifically for my '04 Outback Helical r160s exist. This is about true lockers.

I had to grind my 4.444 ring to clear 1.59

$300 US? What style locker? Lunchbox like the Aussie? Designed for what axles?

You can mix and match XT6 and RX center diff, but in order to get better than 3.9, you have to use the EJ R&P, which is much shorter and will not engage the EA diff.

Yep, with the 1-5 gears and shafts from an RX FT4WD box or EJ D/R box, swap in the PT4WD EA82 1.59 low range, and then use the EJ 4.444 R&P (has to be clearanced a bit). Have to use an EJ center diff, I'm not sure if there's a locking version from some other part of the world, but the XT6 or part-time stuff will definitely not work with the EJ pinion.

What engine are you using? With either transmission, the transfer gears in the back of the transmission will be the weak link, as they're not designed to carry full power. The extra gearing of the transfer case and axles will help that, but if you're making more than EA power, that may be an issue. If it's an EJ, those transfer gears are very easy to source, and even upgrade. Here's a thread that might interest you. Subaru engine in a Toyota, not finished, but some good information: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134618-smiley/ The important part, what he had to do to the Toyota frame to get the Subaru engine to sort of fit. This is an Early SOHC EJ22, the smallest EJ engine: And that's after completely removing the transmission tunnel to raise the drivetrain up into the body as much as possible. If I were building something like that, I would definitely use one of Bill's adapter bellhousings to use a Toyota transmission. Stronger, and without the front diff in the transmission, it won't require the engine/transmission to be nearly as far from the front diff. Which means better ground clearance and/or lower COG, depending how you build it. Another thread that might interest you. Toyota Axles under a Brat. Not the whole frame...but still. Link to pictures in the last post. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/89301-82-brat-solid-axle-build-done/

Yep, the hatch for a car with a raised roof is different. So ASSuming the Outback has a raised roof and LGT doesn't, that will not work. Side windows should.

Front brakes are probably the same. Rears are only an upgrade if you have drums. Struts/springs if you want to lower it. Rear subframe, trailing arm brackets, etc. if you want to lower it correctly. It might have a rear LSD, but there'll be gear ratio and axle concerns. There are many parts that are the same, but very few that would be an upgrade.

I have a super cheap chinese one I bought on Amazon. Seems to have good power, but the clamps do not reliably get a good connection. I find it mildly annoying, but workable, it started my '94 Ford E-150 351 with a very weak battery last week. My wife used it once (I was talking her through it over the phone), and she was really freaked out by that.

EZ wiring would be negligibly more difficult than EJ. Either is a huge project. EZ is a much better end result.... Honestly, though. It sounds like leave it stock is the much better option for your goals. You're bound to have teething pains with an engine swap, fixing/chasing an oil leak sounds so much better.

Yes If it's a '90s donor, the speedo cable should thread right in. It might have a different gear in the transmission, but probably a small difference. Shift cable, driveshaft, may be different. But very good chance the XT6 would all work. Probably will require crossmember modification. Shifter will have to be modified to allow manual selection of 1st gear (XT6 has a 1 hold button). All that sounds easier than swapping bellhousing/front diff housings to me. Either way, you're in for a monster of a wiring project, especially since the XT6 ECU is mounted in the trunk, and TCU in the LH quarter panel. But without reprogramming, I'm not sure you'll ever get mis-matched ECU-TCU-Trans to communicate properly. Spend some time with the XT service manual and see exactly what communication happens between the ECU and TCU, though. It might not be too bad. You'll need a tach signal divider either way to get the cluster to work correctly, that's the only signal between the 2 that I know is wrong, but the fix is relatively easy.

I have one, but it's buried from moving, and I won't have time to look until after the holiday. I know someone just found a socket with the appropriate OD, and cut it out until the 4 teeth were left.

I think it was powerlabs on here that got an EA82t 4EAT to run on his modified EJ TCU, and it required some reprogramming to get it to work right. So I think it would have to be the XT6 TCU (or a reprogrammed TCU, but that's above most of us mortals). However, you'll have some challenges to get the EJ ECU and XT6 TCU to communicate. You'll need a tach signal modulator at the very least (the TCU is looking for an RPM signal, and the 4-cyl signal is calibrated differently than a 6).

C PIllar Cover RH: 65240AL02A LH: 65240AL03A MSRP $28.07 each

I flipped the mounts upside-down on my Loyale with one setup to lower it a bit, and I had to grind a bunch off the cup around that bushing to get it to sit right. But I don't think they all have that. I don't think there are different height mounts, but I think some designs are easier to flip upside-down, which would cause a change in ride height. You've said several times that you have new KYB EA82 shocks, but there are several part numbers that fit that description. Are you 100% sure they're the same length? Ditto with the springs. Mis-boxed parts happen. I'd climb under there with a tape measure and make sure the loaded length of the shock and spring are the same....that will tell you a lot.

I'd say get in there with a tape measure and check things. There are different length shock bodies, and different height spring perches for different body EA82s. Make sure you have the same shocks. Then measure the loaded spring length to see if one is sagging more than another. If all that is the same, then I'd take a look at the upper perch. I think one design of upper mount can be mounted upside-down easily (someone posted about it, and I tried it on my FrankenWagon, and the ones I had required quite a bit of modifying to work).

The gauge cluster is not an a plug and play swap, so pretty safe to assume that's original, and the transmission has been converted. Virtually all dual-range transmissions (which yours clearly is) are part-time 4WD, and have a FWD mode. Here's the shift pattern sticker that you're probably missing. That "revvy" setting you're feeling is low range: But those were also all 3.9:1 axle ratio. That interior/shifter is correct for an '88 part-time 4WD dual range, but since it's been swapped, we can't assume that it all came from the same car. We will also have to assume that any indicator lights don't work. There's a chance that you have a dual range full-time 4WD transmission from a Subaru RX turbo in there. That would not have a FWD setting, and it would have a 3.7 axle ratio. There would be a vacuum canister on the LH side of the transmission, connected to a cable on the RH side of the transmission that locks the center diff. I don't think this is likely, because it sounds like you're not getting very severe binding, and when I hooked part-time 4WD linkage to an RX transmission, it was too short and hit the gear stick in 2nd low range and I had to lengthen the rod (although it's not impossible that that's been done here, too). Ultimately, I think the first step is to look for the transmission code. It should be on a sticker on the transmission bellhousing near the starter. Probably starts with a "TY". If it has that, we should be able to figure out exactly what transmission it is, and then hopefully narrow down what the problem is. FYI, transmissions and rear diffs have magnetic drain plugs because metal shavings are normal. That's not a death sentence.

Yea, I'm confused. Removing the driveshaft doesn't prevent the diff from spinning. Are you driving it in 4WD on the pavement? The bearings in the rear diff are not unique to old gen cars, they still use the same ones in most Subarus up to the current models. So if it needs bearings that shouldn't be a problem wherever you are. The only thing unique about the old gen diffs is the way the axles attach, so the carrier and spider gears need to be reused, but unless it was seriously abused, those likely are fine. Still might make more sense to get a used one shipped to you from somewhere, these are not known to fail under normal use, so I'm sure a decent used one is out there that you can get your hands on.

Call a locksmith. They'll be able to pull it out without damaging the lock or key, and they'll be able to cut you a new key from the broken piece.

Yea, in the description for the Turanza, they talk about reducing road noise. But in Tire Racks ratings, they're rated as a 5.1/10 for noise.....dead last overall for all 19 standard touring all seasons. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+EL400-02&partnum=15VR7EL40002#RatingsReviews Yes, a taller sidewall would probably help, but then you need to buy new wheels and tires. Just try some different tires, we've had really good luck with the Yokohama Avid Ascend for comfort (and not costing a fortune, something like a Michelin Premier would be better, but cost half again as much...).

Those hub assemblies can put up quite a fight. I've seen the guys here at work fight with them (usually the rears). It can be difficult to get the heat where it needs to be without melting important stuff (axle boots, abs sensors, etc.). Some guys just go after them with an air hammer. One guy made a puller that threaded into the mounting bolts, but about a third of them he just pulled the threads out of the bearing housing. One of the guys has one of these, and has pretty good success with it. It puts a bit of a twisting force on the whole thing to knock it loose... https://atdtools.com/8629

It should be fine. If you're buying them new from tire rack, they include a set of bulge-seat acorn nuts, but the contact patch looks the same.

That's an automatic, he's working on a manual

The double pin is for the shift linkage. It's what attaches the forward joint to the shaft that comes out of the back of the transmission. I would have guessed the second one is for a CV axle, but it sounds like you've already ruled that out. I can't think of anything else that would use that....

Which is why I posted one that goes to 23.75" Also do not lift from the tow hooks. Jack from the plate on the front crossmember or the rear diff: