Numbchux

I've had a Big Red Aluminum "Race" jack for years. I love how light it is, which was really important before I had a garage because it was constantly getting loaded into a car, or carried into the shed. It only goes about 18" up, but with a chunk or 2 of 2x4 between it and the car it works on our Outback and even my lifted 4Runner. Now that I have a garage, and a heavier steel jack would be acceptable since I don't have to move it as much. I've had my eye on this one from Harbor Freight , Looks like it's fairly well made, and lifts up to just under 24". And yes, of course, always use jack stands when working under the car.

Redrilled toyota wheels is only for old-gen 4-lug subarus. Disregard that for your car. I guess you're in the right direction, going from a -69.8mm offset package in your original post to a -31.4. That's still 86.4mm (3.4 inches) from stock. What struts are you running? With stock offset you'll need Forester or Outback struts to clear a tire that tall. The offset difference does simplify strut clearance, but it massively complicates body clearance. Specifically the front fender while turning (lots of extra scrub radius).

Well, I can't seem to find any documentation at the moment. But I work at a dealership, and 3/32 is the benchmark we use. Truth be told, tread depth will have a different effect on circumference/diameter (which is truly what has an effect on rpms, which is what will put strain on the drivetrain) depending on the overall tire size, so a circumference difference is certainly more accurate. But looks like the math is pretty close on Subaru sizes...

This is pretty common. I've done it on a Legacy wagon, Outback wagon, and my XT6 in the last couple years, (and my Celica, although that's routed completely under the car, so I had to splice it in under the engine bay...). I replace everything that is exposed. There's a junction block under the car, but that leaves about 6" of line before the block that's exposed. I cut it under the back seat (fairly easy on a wagon, just flip the seat forward, and there it is), flare new nuts onto the stock line, a couple unions and you're good to go. 2017-10-30_08-51-17 by Numbchux, on Flickr The copper/nickel brake line is much easier to use and resistant to corrosion. But a 25' roll of it is fairly expensive. You'll have to decide whether the extra cost is worth it (I've heard the off-the-shelf steel line you buy is not nearly as robust as OE. Probably only get 5 years or so in the salt belt on it). I highly recommend an inline flaring tool, like this one. I got mine at AutoZone, it's cheap and works awesome. Only downside is it will only work on 3/16" or the metric equivalent (4.75mm or something?). Cut off the old stuff as much as you can, get creative with routing the new. Make sure it's mounted well so it can't rattle around, wrap a zip tie around the line and someplace on the body, then wrap a second zip-tie around the first to act as a spacer to keep the metal parts separated. Then tighten both. Subarus use M10x1.0 fittings with an inverted flare.

Yep, on an '06 or older. The 6-cylinders generally need less maintenance, although they are more expensive to fix when something happens.... Starting in '07, even the LLBeans could be had in a 4-cyl. Basically all the 2.5s until about 2010 (depending on the model) have head gasket issues. I specifically looked for a 3.0l 6-cylinder car.

Subaru recommends all tires be within 3/32 tread depth assuming the exact same make and model tire to begin with. So you should be good.

Crystal white Silica is unique to 2017, and also has the K1X code It should be the same color. The touch-up paint is single stage, and will not recreate the pearl very well, this is most evident on white cars. Satin white pearl is the worst.... Post or message me the last 8 digits of your VIN and I can confirm, if you'd like.

Code 12, starter switch means that the ECU doesn't know that you're starting the engine. This will keep it from choking the engine (it does it by electronically adding fuel...). I found that out with the first EJ22 swap that I did, I didn't have that wire hooked up, and it was a bear to get started when it was cold. I can't think of a likely scenario where the ECU wouldn't get this signal and the car would still turn over, as it's just a piece of wire that splices inline with the starter and runs over to the ECU. But, get out your diagrams and find that wire and test it....

These are my immediate guesses as well. Pull the distributor cap, and have someone turn it over while you watch the rotor. I bet it doesn't spin.

Sometimes some grime will get in the tracks and prevent it from quite reaching the end of the track and tripping the limit switch. A shot of compressed air fixed a lot of the goofy behavior on my XT6

Much of this description makes it sound like you're thinking it's a transmission issue. But it sounds to me like an engine issue. A hesitation, stumble or misfire. Is the check engine light on? I'd be testing the fuel pressure regulator and throttle position sensor. Clean the idle air control solenoid and MAF sensor. Look closely for vacuum leaks.

If you're serious about that, Look for the TSSFab facebook page (I'm at work, and it's blocked...). They're trying to put together a group buy for 4.444 R&Ps for the 6-speed. There's a Group N part number, but not for customer sale.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj

Possible? Anything is possible.... Practical? No. This has been discussed tens, if not hundreds, of times (not necessarily on a baja...but there's nothing specific about that) It's not just an engine replacement. A turbo car has a lot of things that are different. You'll have $2k-10k into parts for the swap (There are a lot of variables on exactly what engine you use and where you get the parts. The WRX has been made since 1993, so a "wrx swap" is a very vague term). Not to mention the labor, the dash has to be gutted, you'll either have a wiring harness merge, or immobilizer stuff to deal with...... Subaru did this from the factory. You absolutely could sell your N/A Baja, and buy a Baja XT for less than it would cost to swap your Baja.

Wow, I just realized this was an ancient thread that was dredged up.....and there's really 2 different people asking similar questions. FYI, '13-'17 Crosstrek manuals were 4.444 and non-turbo.

Your car came with a TY752VABCA, But yes, a TY752VACCA should work. It's not really relevant here, but we definitely got 4.444 manuals here. '04-'08 Forester XT, Baja XT, '05-'09 OBXT, and '13-'17 Crosstrek.

Yep, Even Subaru says it interchanges with a '94-'01 Impreza. Although I'm under the impression that the '95-'99 Legacy or Outback should work as well, and even a '90-'94 if you grab the little diff mount and shorter diff studs.

Flashing Check Engine light means a misfire Cruise light will flash and system will be disabled whenever the Check Engine light is on, so that part is normal. I don't think the VDC light should, though. Unless this was more of a "flicker" than a "flash". Could have an electrical gremlin...

That's just '90-'94 Legacy and '93 Impreza that uses that extra diff mount plate. The early '95 Legacy uses a unique part number, although it supersedes to the same number as the '94-'01 Impreza. Then mid-production '95 the Legacy one switched.

Yep, I notch out all my struts. Dremel, sawzall, even hack saw.... Those are crush washers, so they will not seal as well when re-used (that said, they usually seal enough when re-used). A neat trick I learned several years ago: hold one in a pliers, heat it with a torch until red hot and then let it cool off in the air (don't douse it). This heat cycling will return the shape to it, and it will seal much better.

Legacy and Outback show different part numbers (AC040 looks like an Outback one, AC050 is not a valid US number), but the bushings that are pressed into the crossmember are different numbers, maybe that's the only difference. -1/95, an AWD Legacy would have a 20151AC002, 2/95- it switches to a 20151AC021 All 98-02 Foresters had the 20151FA113, and I don't see the spacer like an Outback, that could be a problem

Now that we've thoroughly derailed this thread. All the GCs had 5-lug ("this era"). It's definitely larger than 114.3. One of the first times a picture of the new 4-lug WRC cars surfaced on here, someone scaled it based on the known wheel diameter, and it was very close to 140. I was sure one of the for sale listings on WRC Spares listed the bolt pattern as 4x140, but I can't find it now... WRC changes through the years, 4-lug started in 2005 (Subaru pulled out after 2008, so 4 years) http://www.subaruwrcspares.com/resources/WRC.pdf Also http://www.subaruwrcspares.com/7.html

There should be a transmission code sticker on the bellhousing near the starter. Assuming it's the original transmission, it'll be the same code that's on the plate on the driver's strut tower. Google that code, and you'll probably get your answer. Or call a Canadian dealership (US catalogs can't decode Canadian VINs) with the VIN

Only the last few years of the WRC cars have 4x140

I've seen MR2 and XT6 pumps set up on other cars (or even for rear steer on rock buggies) without limiting pressure, and even without a cooler (although it's certainly a good idea). I bet something from the Subaru parts bin would work, probably EA82 without too much difficult. No, not easy. But sounds easier than: -Tracking down a complete, working, EA81 power steering setup -Retrofitting a hydraulic rack AND retrofitting a belt-driven pump -Retrofitting an electric rack and associated parts