Numbchux

Yes If it's a '90s donor, the speedo cable should thread right in. It might have a different gear in the transmission, but probably a small difference. Shift cable, driveshaft, may be different. But very good chance the XT6 would all work. Probably will require crossmember modification. Shifter will have to be modified to allow manual selection of 1st gear (XT6 has a 1 hold button). All that sounds easier than swapping bellhousing/front diff housings to me. Either way, you're in for a monster of a wiring project, especially since the XT6 ECU is mounted in the trunk, and TCU in the LH quarter panel. But without reprogramming, I'm not sure you'll ever get mis-matched ECU-TCU-Trans to communicate properly. Spend some time with the XT service manual and see exactly what communication happens between the ECU and TCU, though. It might not be too bad. You'll need a tach signal divider either way to get the cluster to work correctly, that's the only signal between the 2 that I know is wrong, but the fix is relatively easy.

I have one, but it's buried from moving, and I won't have time to look until after the holiday. I know someone just found a socket with the appropriate OD, and cut it out until the 4 teeth were left.

I think it was powerlabs on here that got an EA82t 4EAT to run on his modified EJ TCU, and it required some reprogramming to get it to work right. So I think it would have to be the XT6 TCU (or a reprogrammed TCU, but that's above most of us mortals). However, you'll have some challenges to get the EJ ECU and XT6 TCU to communicate. You'll need a tach signal modulator at the very least (the TCU is looking for an RPM signal, and the 4-cyl signal is calibrated differently than a 6).

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I flipped the mounts upside-down on my Loyale with one setup to lower it a bit, and I had to grind a bunch off the cup around that bushing to get it to sit right. But I don't think they all have that. I don't think there are different height mounts, but I think some designs are easier to flip upside-down, which would cause a change in ride height. You've said several times that you have new KYB EA82 shocks, but there are several part numbers that fit that description. Are you 100% sure they're the same length? Ditto with the springs. Mis-boxed parts happen. I'd climb under there with a tape measure and make sure the loaded length of the shock and spring are the same....that will tell you a lot.

I'd say get in there with a tape measure and check things. There are different length shock bodies, and different height spring perches for different body EA82s. Make sure you have the same shocks. Then measure the loaded spring length to see if one is sagging more than another. If all that is the same, then I'd take a look at the upper perch. I think one design of upper mount can be mounted upside-down easily (someone posted about it, and I tried it on my FrankenWagon, and the ones I had required quite a bit of modifying to work).

The gauge cluster is not an a plug and play swap, so pretty safe to assume that's original, and the transmission has been converted. Virtually all dual-range transmissions (which yours clearly is) are part-time 4WD, and have a FWD mode. Here's the shift pattern sticker that you're probably missing. That "revvy" setting you're feeling is low range: But those were also all 3.9:1 axle ratio. That interior/shifter is correct for an '88 part-time 4WD dual range, but since it's been swapped, we can't assume that it all came from the same car. We will also have to assume that any indicator lights don't work. There's a chance that you have a dual range full-time 4WD transmission from a Subaru RX turbo in there. That would not have a FWD setting, and it would have a 3.7 axle ratio. There would be a vacuum canister on the LH side of the transmission, connected to a cable on the RH side of the transmission that locks the center diff. I don't think this is likely, because it sounds like you're not getting very severe binding, and when I hooked part-time 4WD linkage to an RX transmission, it was too short and hit the gear stick in 2nd low range and I had to lengthen the rod (although it's not impossible that that's been done here, too). Ultimately, I think the first step is to look for the transmission code. It should be on a sticker on the transmission bellhousing near the starter. Probably starts with a "TY". If it has that, we should be able to figure out exactly what transmission it is, and then hopefully narrow down what the problem is. FYI, transmissions and rear diffs have magnetic drain plugs because metal shavings are normal. That's not a death sentence.

Yea, I'm confused. Removing the driveshaft doesn't prevent the diff from spinning. Are you driving it in 4WD on the pavement? The bearings in the rear diff are not unique to old gen cars, they still use the same ones in most Subarus up to the current models. So if it needs bearings that shouldn't be a problem wherever you are. The only thing unique about the old gen diffs is the way the axles attach, so the carrier and spider gears need to be reused, but unless it was seriously abused, those likely are fine. Still might make more sense to get a used one shipped to you from somewhere, these are not known to fail under normal use, so I'm sure a decent used one is out there that you can get your hands on.

Call a locksmith. They'll be able to pull it out without damaging the lock or key, and they'll be able to cut you a new key from the broken piece.

Yea, in the description for the Turanza, they talk about reducing road noise. But in Tire Racks ratings, they're rated as a 5.1/10 for noise.....dead last overall for all 19 standard touring all seasons. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+EL400-02&partnum=15VR7EL40002#RatingsReviews Yes, a taller sidewall would probably help, but then you need to buy new wheels and tires. Just try some different tires, we've had really good luck with the Yokohama Avid Ascend for comfort (and not costing a fortune, something like a Michelin Premier would be better, but cost half again as much...).

Those hub assemblies can put up quite a fight. I've seen the guys here at work fight with them (usually the rears). It can be difficult to get the heat where it needs to be without melting important stuff (axle boots, abs sensors, etc.). Some guys just go after them with an air hammer. One guy made a puller that threaded into the mounting bolts, but about a third of them he just pulled the threads out of the bearing housing. One of the guys has one of these, and has pretty good success with it. It puts a bit of a twisting force on the whole thing to knock it loose... https://atdtools.com/8629

It should be fine. If you're buying them new from tire rack, they include a set of bulge-seat acorn nuts, but the contact patch looks the same.

That's an automatic, he's working on a manual

The double pin is for the shift linkage. It's what attaches the forward joint to the shaft that comes out of the back of the transmission. I would have guessed the second one is for a CV axle, but it sounds like you've already ruled that out. I can't think of anything else that would use that....

Which is why I posted one that goes to 23.75" Also do not lift from the tow hooks. Jack from the plate on the front crossmember or the rear diff:

I've had a Big Red Aluminum "Race" jack for years. I love how light it is, which was really important before I had a garage because it was constantly getting loaded into a car, or carried into the shed. It only goes about 18" up, but with a chunk or 2 of 2x4 between it and the car it works on our Outback and even my lifted 4Runner. Now that I have a garage, and a heavier steel jack would be acceptable since I don't have to move it as much. I've had my eye on this one from Harbor Freight , Looks like it's fairly well made, and lifts up to just under 24". And yes, of course, always use jack stands when working under the car.

Redrilled toyota wheels is only for old-gen 4-lug subarus. Disregard that for your car. I guess you're in the right direction, going from a -69.8mm offset package in your original post to a -31.4. That's still 86.4mm (3.4 inches) from stock. What struts are you running? With stock offset you'll need Forester or Outback struts to clear a tire that tall. The offset difference does simplify strut clearance, but it massively complicates body clearance. Specifically the front fender while turning (lots of extra scrub radius).

Well, I can't seem to find any documentation at the moment. But I work at a dealership, and 3/32 is the benchmark we use. Truth be told, tread depth will have a different effect on circumference/diameter (which is truly what has an effect on rpms, which is what will put strain on the drivetrain) depending on the overall tire size, so a circumference difference is certainly more accurate. But looks like the math is pretty close on Subaru sizes...

This is pretty common. I've done it on a Legacy wagon, Outback wagon, and my XT6 in the last couple years, (and my Celica, although that's routed completely under the car, so I had to splice it in under the engine bay...). I replace everything that is exposed. There's a junction block under the car, but that leaves about 6" of line before the block that's exposed. I cut it under the back seat (fairly easy on a wagon, just flip the seat forward, and there it is), flare new nuts onto the stock line, a couple unions and you're good to go. 2017-10-30_08-51-17 by Numbchux, on Flickr The copper/nickel brake line is much easier to use and resistant to corrosion. But a 25' roll of it is fairly expensive. You'll have to decide whether the extra cost is worth it (I've heard the off-the-shelf steel line you buy is not nearly as robust as OE. Probably only get 5 years or so in the salt belt on it). I highly recommend an inline flaring tool, like this one. I got mine at AutoZone, it's cheap and works awesome. Only downside is it will only work on 3/16" or the metric equivalent (4.75mm or something?). Cut off the old stuff as much as you can, get creative with routing the new. Make sure it's mounted well so it can't rattle around, wrap a zip tie around the line and someplace on the body, then wrap a second zip-tie around the first to act as a spacer to keep the metal parts separated. Then tighten both. Subarus use M10x1.0 fittings with an inverted flare.

Yep, on an '06 or older. The 6-cylinders generally need less maintenance, although they are more expensive to fix when something happens.... Starting in '07, even the LLBeans could be had in a 4-cyl. Basically all the 2.5s until about 2010 (depending on the model) have head gasket issues. I specifically looked for a 3.0l 6-cylinder car.

Subaru recommends all tires be within 3/32 tread depth assuming the exact same make and model tire to begin with. So you should be good.

Crystal white Silica is unique to 2017, and also has the K1X code It should be the same color. The touch-up paint is single stage, and will not recreate the pearl very well, this is most evident on white cars. Satin white pearl is the worst.... Post or message me the last 8 digits of your VIN and I can confirm, if you'd like.

Code 12, starter switch means that the ECU doesn't know that you're starting the engine. This will keep it from choking the engine (it does it by electronically adding fuel...). I found that out with the first EJ22 swap that I did, I didn't have that wire hooked up, and it was a bear to get started when it was cold. I can't think of a likely scenario where the ECU wouldn't get this signal and the car would still turn over, as it's just a piece of wire that splices inline with the starter and runs over to the ECU. But, get out your diagrams and find that wire and test it....

These are my immediate guesses as well. Pull the distributor cap, and have someone turn it over while you watch the rotor. I bet it doesn't spin.

Sometimes some grime will get in the tracks and prevent it from quite reaching the end of the track and tripping the limit switch. A shot of compressed air fixed a lot of the goofy behavior on my XT6