Numbchux

Just to clarify, from your description, the parts that are circled in that diagram are not what you are asking about, right? the roll pin (#16) was a problem with my Brat for quite awhile. Years ago I saw a write-up on here where a guy someone used compression fitting ferrules on a bolt to tighten that up, but we couldn't find a size that fit well (either too small, or too big, so it fit tight in the outer part, but not tight to the inner shaft). I drilled it out a bit, and put an EJ-style double-rollpin in it. But I think I drilled it a hair too big, as it fell out.... Just a couple weeks ago, I tapped threads all the way through both pieces, and ran a bolt through it (I don't remember what size, and since mine has already been drilled out once, it probably won't be the ideal size for other vehicles). That seems to have worked well.

I have no experience with them, but I've noticed them listed several times. They seem terrifyingly cheap....so I assume the quality matches.

Bingo. I think the trailing arm and such could take a decent amount of extra travel, if the shock/spring combo could handle it. I don't know anything about the 4Runner shock swap, so I really can't help there. But when I was looking for something for street use, every viable option I could find had less travel than the stock ones (I ended up with Miata stuff, which had several inches less travel). I suspect the only way to really get more, is to basically go to a custom long travel setup, with about a 20" long coilover spring.

I just realized you have redrilled aluminum wheels......yikes. No, that's bad news.

You'll need Outback struts to fit larger tires. If you want to use Outback struts/springs AND blocks, you'll need subframe spacers. Something more like this kit: http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/lift-kits/0-4-lift-kit-2000-detail You'll probably want to contact Scott directly, though. As you'll probably want to mix and match block heights to compensate. Also, that kit is for a 2000-2004, and an 05-09 would be slightly different (at the very least, the rear bushing on the front control arm is different). I like Scott at SJR a lot. He's been around here for a long time. But, if he doesn't offer anything for the 05-09, talk to ADF. They don't list anything with front subframe spacers, but I've seen on their Facebook page and such that they've built a couple really big ones. http://andersondesign-fab.com/product/05-09-legacy-2-strut-spacers-w-multi-link-spacers/

Look on the tag on the strut tower, that should have the complete engine code. I'm not familiar with the "series 4" terminology. But I assume it's the VVT version of the SOHC EJ25. This would require retrofitting to the newer ECU to control that, which means you'd be doing more than a little wiring. Also, in the US anyway, most of those cars have an immobilizer, which makes that kind of project extremely difficult. I suspect a huge amount of work for very little benefit.

I sort of see where you're coming from. But... Building one car out of 5+ is not likely going to provide this. While I never had any major issues with my Loyale (EJ22, RX transmission, 5-lug, etc.), I did have a few things, and it was enough that I thought twice before taking it on a road trip. We almost always preferred to take my girlfriend's Kia (now she's my wife, and drives a Subaru) if we were leaving town.

The biggest reason to go 5-lug, is for brake and suspension upgrades for street use. The truth is, the stock 4-lug brakes (rear disc conversion) will perform just fine for typical offroad use, and the 5-lug suspension options don't offer any more travel. Also, virtually all 5x100 wheels are very high offset. Typically too much for oversized tires. If it were 5x114.3 (5x4.5), then you'd have a ton of wheel options, in any dimension you can dream up. But 5x100 is not common enough. Standard EA82 4WD struts will have more tire clearance than the tallest 5-lug front strut (Outback struts generally have room for about 29" tall tires). And for the cost of XT6 rear hubs these days, you could buy a lift, rear disc swap, and a drill press to redrill to 6-lug yourself. Even if I got the 5-lug parts for free, if I was building an offroad rig, I'd sell them and go 6-lug. Heck, for the cost of XT6 hubs, you could probably buy a set of Peugeot 15s, All that said, it's been done. It's not necessarily bad, just not usually cost effective. For most peoples' offroad Subaru use, a couple degrees of Ackermann angle, and a little more dampening, and another inch of rotor diameter, just isn't worth the cost and labor.

Strut is a sealed, pressurized, fluid-filled container. Welding produces a lot of heat....

I don't think the parts yield any change. Control arms, knuckles, wheels. Yes the rear inner trailing arm is different, but the outer is the same. Rotor offset is the same. The tire size changed, but that shouldn't make much difference. Depending on how it's measured...but it would change both numbers equally. I suspect it has to do with the suspension geometry at different ride heights. The front is a pretty typical arc, with the control arms at a decent downward angle at 4WD height, so as it lowers, the arc pushes the hub outwards. The rear trailing arm actually has the opposite geometry. Because it's an asymmetrical triangle, and the mounts are not in-line, the arc travels outwards towards the extremes, and inwards when the arm is level. And since those arms angle downwards at ride height, as the car is lowered, the hubs shift inwards.

Depending on how bad the damage is. It might react very well to some leather conditioner. The driver's seat in our 2004 VDC was in pretty nasty shape when I bought it. Dried and cracked very badly. A couple treatments with some Leather cleaner and then conditioner (I used Lexol brand), and you almost can't tell. Leather has to be cared for. It has to be conditioned, or it will dry out and become brittle. Take care of it, and it'll last.

By stub axles, I mean in the diff. AFAIK, those flanges are designed to slip over the stock stub axles, and then the porsche CVs bolt to that. Knock yourself out. But my Brat has quite a bit of rear suspension travel, with just a reclock and longer shocks. What it needs is gearing, lockers, gearing, more front travel, and gearing. If I were going to spend $1500 and a bunch of labor on EA81 IRS for offroad use. It'd be for a better diff with a locker, probably Ford 9". I'd try to leave the suspension and brakes alone.

Possible? Sure. Anything is possible. Practical? Cost effective? I doubt it. Huge amount of work and money. Still have the stock stub axles and an r160 diff. Those parts have no effect on the torsion bars. You can already run any shock you can dream of on an EA81. I have Rough Country's on my Brat (Rancho's would have cost more than the Brat....had to go cheap).

Yep, ATF stick is on a tube that stands out away from the transmission a bit. Front diff stick goes right into the side of the transmission.

I'm really confused.... Is the timing set correctly now? (I don't know the procedure for an EA81 off the top of my head...). Considering it's unknown history, I think I would throw some new spark plugs (NGK V-power) in it, and do a compression test while at it. That'll give you an idea of the condition of the bottom end. Maybe wires, cap, and rotor. Then start looking for vacuum leaks. These late carbureted cars were choked with vacuum operated solenoids and such, so there are a ton of vacuum lines that could be leaking. If the ignition is in good shape, and it's got good compression, there's a reasonable chance it's carb-related.

Transfer clutches share ATF with the transmission. ATF dip stick is on the driver's side Front diff gear oil dip stick is on the passenger's side.

03 was the last year for Legacy/Outback/Baja, 04 for Impreza Forester. No Subaru in 2005 or newer had a fuel filter. Yep, just the sock in the tank, and they say it doesn't need to be replaced. I don't know if they're just cutting costs on assembly. Or assuming that modern car owners neglect service, and therefore a fuel filter just becomes a clog point. Whatever the reason, that's pretty common these days with most manufacturers.

No external fuel filter. They stopped that after 2004 in the Imprezas. 2006 is the first year they called for HP Transmission fluid. So I would recommend OE fluid only. Filter is on the side of the transmission, accessible from under the car.

Yep, speed nuts and most auto parts will have an assortment.

No. that's wrong. Those are EJ control arms.

When was the last time the wheels were off before the first issue? When the issue came back after the wheels were rotated, was it the same wheel as before? As has been mentioned, lug nuts need to be retorqued 50-100 miles after the wheels have been removed, especially important with alloy wheels. Off the top of my head: Cheap lug nuts (I've seen 20 generic ones seize on to the point that we had to break off ARP studs to get the wheels off after 2 days of rallying, and less than 10 removal/install sequences, always using a torque wrench to 75 ft/lbs) Cheap lug studs OE studs damaged from loose lug nuts aftermarket wheels OE wheel damaged from loose lug nuts Corrosion on the backside of the wheel causing it to not seat correctly on the hub Snow/ice/sand/dirt/grease on the backside of the wheel " " " Corrosion/snow/etc. on the lug nut seating surfaces wheel/tire assembly out of balance/round wheel bearing/brake problem causing excessive heat/vibration None of these things are specific to Subarus.

There are a lot of things that can cause loose lug nuts. There isn't NEARLY enough information here to make an accurate diagnosis. A few ideas have been posted here, but there are probably a thousand other possibilities. What's the maintenance history? Have the wheels been off the car recently for any maintenance? Are they original brakes? lug nuts? studs? wheels? How are the tires? Yes, wheels can be on the ground when tightening lug nuts. She may want to get a breaker bar or torque wrench. My wife is not physically able to put adequate torque on the lug nuts (therefore not able to take them off, either) with the included wrench. She is tough and knowledgeable enough that she could replace a flat tire herself, but we had to put a breaker bar and socket in her car to make it possible.

Yep, what those guys said. Adding a HUGE dose of complication and expense....for what? Maybe with the direct injection you could get better mileage, but that would be very dependent on the tune, which would have to be custom. And it's going to take a long time to regain the several thousand dollar cost of good management. Oh yea, it'll burn twice as much oil. Yea, you wouldn't have to replace a timing belt. Whew, saved a couple hundred bucks there! Maybe a bit more power, but there are cheaper ways to get that (EZ30 comes to mind).

According to the picture, both of those Contitech kits are for the old style tensioner. Here's the last few lines of the application list for the old style tensioner. They were seen until mid-1999 on the 2.5.

If you're lowing the crossmember and rack, you need a longer steering shaft. Period. Frequently, with a 2" overall lift, the crossmember isn't dropped...so that's probably where the misinformation comes from.