Numbchux

Yes, the VDC cars have an actual differential in the center, and they also have clutch plates to actively limit any slippage. Interestingly, the owner's manual specifically says that if using the temporary spare, put the FWD fuse in for non-VDC cars, but no mention about what to do with a VDC car, so maybe it's fine.... Long story short, it might be just fine, but the cost of a tow vs the cost of a transmission (or even just clutch pack)....I'd have it towed in... FYI, "VDC" stands for Vehicle Dynamic Control, which is stability control. But the VDC cars come with VTD, which is Variable Torque Distribution, which refers to the different AWD.

Yep, 2014-2018 is all the same body style, and generally only had small changes.

I don't recall there being any adapter in any of my cars, just a normal lug wrench. Take a picture of the lug nuts, maybe you have some aftermarket lugs....

I've used the standard SPFI EA82 pump a couple times. Once I found an inline one listed for a Ford Grand Squire wagon that was cheap that worked fine. Really anything that's an inline style pump, supplies adequate pressure and volume for the EJ22 (which is relatively low for fuel injection), and has the right size fittings... Getting adequate voltage at the pump? That can definitely cause low pressure, and some pumps don't hold up well. Fuel pressure regulator? I've never put a gauge on a car with a failed regulator, but it can cause all kinds of weird running issues. Pull the vacuum line off it and see if there's gas in it.

It is crazy, but all do-able, given enough time and fabrication/engineering Almost any turbo Subaru engine is capable of 300 crank hp with a decent tune (this part is fairly crucial, no Subaru engine puts out quite that much in stock form, so it will need some modifications, albeit minor, and a good tune is pivotal in making the power and making it reliable). Yes, there are several "FWD" conversion kits for Subaru 5- and 6-speed transmissions. Several different styles in how they block off the back of the transmission. Some require cutting the center diff housing in half, and just have a round plug where the diff would go, this is a cleaner, smaller solution. But in order to simplify converting back to "AWD", I think you'd prefer one with a bolt-on plate that deletes the last output housing, and leaves the center diff housing in place. Depending on access to the transmission itself, this could be done pretty quickly (transmission does not need to be removed to replace the center diff). There are "RWD" conversion parts, that is basically just a solid chunk of steel with the appropriate splines to engage the transmission output, and the front and rear differential inputs. Or just get a spare center diff, and weld it solid... Strength-wise, at 300hp, I don't think you have too much to worry about. In AWD or FWD mode, even a 5-speed should be able to hold up to it as long as you're not abusing it. In RWD mode, the transfer gears (between the center diff and driveshaft slip yoke), are proven to be the weak link. But, since you're talking about having it drive a propellor, there wouldn't be shock loading or anything like that, and I'm betting you probably wouldn't be using full power, so it might be fine. Axles will depend on exactly what transmission you use and, more importantly, what knuckles you use. But suffice it to say, you have lots of options, and most will involve some custom/hybrid parts. I know when I was looking at 914 projects, there was a source for adapter flanges that slid over the older male-splines of the front differential, and allowed the stock porsche CVs to bolt to them. This would give you enormous options, and most of them would have greater travel than the Subaru options. Generally speaking, rear axles will not work on the front differential outputs.

The fluid should be up to the fill plug (higher one of the 2), well beyond the drain plug.

I'm saying it may not give you any symptoms that it's damaged. Pull the fill plug, and see if you can feel any fluid right there (I'm guessing you won't). Then drain it into a clean container, and see how much fluid is in it, and how nasty it looks. Grab the number off the transmission (by the starter, usually starts with TZ) and google it. There are several lists online of Subaru transmission codes, and most will tell you what rear diff they have. And start shopping around. The condition of the fluid and availability of a good used diff will be your deciding factors on how to proceed.

I had an r160 leak dry and seize on me. Zero notice. Driving perfectly smooth one moment, both back wheels locked up solid the next. Luckily I was carrying enough speed that I could coast/skid onto the shoulder before stopping, because it would not move under it's own power. You may have noticed I've capitalized a few letters in "ASSuming", since you didn't bother to tell us what vehicle you're asking about. Normally I don't even respond when I have to ASSume or guess.... But JDM r160 doesn't mean it's special, interesting, rare, or expensive. Might be a VLSD, but those aren't rare here either.

Yep, looks like the side seal has been leaking for some time. Replacing the seal isn't a terrible job, but I would say there's a high probability that thing has run dry and likely has some internal damage. ASSuming it's not an STi, good used one is probably cheap enough.

No it isn't. Every car sold in the US had to be OBD II in '96. Subaru did not sell a WRX in North America until 2002. You have to use the SVX TCU.

I've been looking for some time for an active link to that. Thanks!! Added to the FAQ

Removal of the engine doesn't [necessarily] change anything with the transmission, axles, or driveshaft. Still have to disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff to do it correctly.

Transmission, engine width, fueling, wiring, cooling, etc. All peanuts..... Fabbing a modified-MacPherson rear suspension onto a unibody designed for transverse torsion bars and trailing arms.....that's the nightmare. With no payoff. By lifting it, you're completely negating any geometry advantages you might get. XT6 rear hubs are tough to come by, but get your hands on a set of those, and you almost completely eliminate all fabrication (and you'll be able to sell the arms, knuckles, hubs, and struts off your donor car....probably still come out ahead).

You're in for a huge project. Almost this identical project (full drivetrain/suspension swap) has been talked about hundreds of times over the years. To my knowledge, it's only been finished once. I recommend you spend some time with the retrofitting faq, and the search tool. There are recipes for a similar result that require hundreds of hours less fab time.

You can, it's not all going to be exactly the same, but most should be close enough. I know the driveshaft will not be the same length. And the gas tank will most likely not be identical (that's not to say it can't be made to work, but probably won't be a direct swap). Outback suspension will be taller, may or may not be what you're going for. Probably have to swap the Impreza rear strut tops onto the Outback struts. Brake cables will probably be longer than necessary (need to swap to correctly do the drum-to-disc conversion, which I think all FWD Imprezas were rear drum, and the Outback will definitely be disc), but some creative routing will probably get around that. Or don't have an ebrake. The FWD Impreza might have 13" wheels ('93-'94 definitely...), which may or may not clear the rear discs. But if you've got a donor car and using the taller suspension, the stock wheels/tires on the Outback will be fine. Swap the larger front brakes on there while you're at it.

Based on the information given.....I'm going to say, somewhere where it doesn't pinch, chafe, interfere, or compromise any seals.

All the FB cars have low oil lights, except 11-13 Foresters.

Most are diagnostic, indeed. I assumed those would be pictured when I saw the thread title.... The white circular one looks like the 4WD solenoid connector. Is your car 4WD? Does it work?

This is not relevant, as the EJ255 is tuned for premium fuel only. So yes, never run anything less than that if it can possibly be avoided.

No If the ignition timing is not tuned for high octane, it will not be better. Putting 110 in a car tuned for 87, turbo or not, is not better. That said, if you're tuning for it, yes, higher octane is generally better for a turbo car. But a stock EA82t is not a high performance engine running on the edge of what's possible....far from it. I don't think the Ethanol they add to the fuel now is comparable to what was available when that owner's manual was written. I wouldn't (and haven't, although I've never personally owned a turbo car) worry about 10%

No. You'll need hubs, knuckles, axles, parking brakes, rear struts, front rotors, rear brakes, probably more. Axles are designed for a wider track width, so you'll either need custom axles, or the GD suspension arms. Gloyale is right, '05-'07 STi is your donor window. All the other 5x114.3 Subaru applications are very different.

I'm not in service, so I don't know much about warranty stuff... But, I do know that we have replaced short blocks under warranty for several cars that weren't in the VIN range. If it's feasible, you might want to try a different dealership. Or get Subaru of America involved. If the vehicle is under warranty, it should be covered....

When I did it, I tapped the frame rails for bolts to hold the mustache bar (rear diff mount crossmember) in. Worked fine for more than 100k miles. I also swapped the entire rear suspension, including the crossmember that the trailing arms bolt to, instead of modifying for the diff mount. That was bolt-on. Depending what transmission you're swapping in (non-turbo), the front axles will work, although the original 4WD ones are more beefy. Several ways to do the driveshaft mount, I ended up having a custom one-piece one made. You will need transmission crossmembers for the manual transmission conversion. Also brake/clutch pedal assembly. Suspension components are different height for 4WD vs FWD (ride height is lower for FWD, but because of a change in the trailing arm mounts, the rear shocks are actually taller), so you will probably want to swap the struts.

I cannot support this post enough. You have a car with a quarter of a million miles on it. Things fail. The only way for a shop to prevent related failures, is to replace every part they touch, which would have to complaining on the internet at least as quickly. It is possible that it was due to neglegence on their part, and the fact that they didn't charge you full price reflects them taking responsibility for that chance. But it's impossible to know one way or the other (certainly from the lack of description provided). Maybe the last guy screwed it up, and put it together by massively overtorqueing and threadlocking it on. Maybe it was just due to fail.

Yep, look for blockage in front of the radiator, and back flush it for blockage inside it. I'd also do a chemical test for head gasket leakage.