Numbchux

I lot of H6 hating in here.... They're fantastic engines. I MUCH prefer the H6 to the 4-cyl. The AWD in the VDC models is fantastic, not the front-biased garbage in all the other automatic Subarus. I honestly think I'll own at least one '01-'04 Outback VDC for a long time to come, I love ours. Yes, the headgasket job sucks. But getting decent low-mileage engines is not difficult or expensive. I ordered one for a customer at work from a junkyard, with a warranty and about 100k miles, for about $800. And you can find stupid low mileage ones from Japan without the warranty for that or less... Like Gary said, towing capacity is a gray area. IMO the weak link (from a reliability standpoint) when you're towing is the transmission, and the clutches and such didn't change between the 4-cyl and H6 cars. Neither did the brakes. But the H6 cars are heavier and more powerful....that's not great. BUT, with FreeSSM and a $15 cable, you can bump up the line pressure to prevent slippage. Then add a transmission temperature gauge and aux cooler, and it'll do much better. I tow a thousand pound trailers all the time, with bikes on the roof and a decent load in the car.... (3rd picture isn't towing, but on the bump stops with boxes of books, plus the set of wheels/tires on the roof) Here's my transmission cooler, ATF goes from the transmission, through the filter, than the aux cooler, than the stock cooler (to prevent overcooling), and back to the trans: 20160326_155341 by Numbchux, on Flickr According to Cars101.com (fantastic Subaru information source, btw!), the 4-cyl wagons and all sedans have a towing capacity of 2000 lbs, and H6 wagons 2400. I put a Reese trailer hitch on mine which is rated for 3500 lbs. All that said, you say you'd be towing an SVX....Curb weight of an AWD SVX is a hair over 3500, which is pushing it unless going very gingerly. But the SVX was only an automatic, and an AT Subaru cannot be safely flat-towed. So now you've got at least the weight of a dolly....A real short, easy tow might be fine, but even that is pushing it. I'd tow my Celica on a dolly behind our Outback a fair distance, but it's a thousand pounds lighter than an SVX...

Well, I guess it's possible it has EA81 front suspension in it.... Try an axle for an '84 (that will insure you get an EA81 one).

What body style '88 GL? EA81s have a narrower track width than EA82s, and I think they made EA81 hatches and brats until '88 ('87 for sure...), where the wagon, sedan, and coupe were all EA82s.

Thanks guys! Do you guys know how the EA82 3AT compares length-wise? Is it the same as the EA81 3AT? Bump! I added a few things, but I'm looking for more! I think the EA81 SPFI write-up would be good, but I can't seem to find a good link for it. post it up if you find it!

Yep, you won't have much for an A/T option that will clear the stock Legacy struts, but you can swap to forester or outback struts and open up some options. As mentioned, it's 5x100, By far the most common Subaru bolt pattern since 1990. Exceptions to that (in the US) are Loyales, Justies, SVXs, Tribecas, 2005+ STis, 2015+ Legacy/Outback, 2015+ WRX. are the exceptions. There are other vehicles that use that pattern, but most have lower offset, which is generally not ideal for several reasons. Small GMs (cavaliers, sunfires, and possibly others), small mopars (neons, etc.), not uncommon for VW. Toyota Celicas/corollas (although the hub bore is too small for a Subaru hub).

Yea, you'll need the entire pedal assembly, clutch, brake, and throttle. Technically the throttle pedal is the same, but there's no point to remove it from the pedal box.... Transmission crossmember is different. Obviously shift linkage, flywheel, clutch kit, clutch cable and starter. Your old speedometer cable will fit the manual transmission. CV axles are interchangeable. You will have to at the very least bypass the neutral start switch to allow the vehicle to start. You may also want to splice into the reverse switch for the reverse lights

I'm not aware of this ever being done. It's relatively easy to adapt a distributor to that engine.... I think without the majority of the engine sensors connected, the ECU would have a bit of a freak out. At the very least, the timing maps would not be ideal....

Welcome, and I do have to give you credit for searching. But digging up a ~7 year old thread to make a small correction (which isn't really correct, as it's only true of the 8 bolt manuals, the 4 bolt ones did have a stud) is not really necessary....

Normally, I don't respond to threads that don't say what the vehicle in question is. But, if it's a vintage that can be programmed yourself, it will have instructions how to do it in the owners manual. There can only be 4 remotes programmed in at one time, so on most models you will have to program the same one in several times to get it to delete another.

IAC is my first thought. Most of the other things I've seen have been more consistent, or give other symptoms as well.

I know the Ea82s were somewhat notorious for drawing too much power through the ignition switch connector in the column. My loyale did this for years, sometimes for much longer. Eventually it wouldn't start sometimes unless you pushed on the column trim....I finally pulled it apart, and bypassed that connector for that wire with a pair of nice spade terminals. I don't think I've ever heard of an XT doing it though...but it might be worth looking into.

That center cat is welded to the driver's side pipe from the factory. If you want to replace just the one, you will have to cut and weld. Here's what mine looked like. Broken before and after that cat: 20160623_165837 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Donor an automatic or manual? Neutral switch hooked up? Mileage? Maintenance stuff? "abnormal codes"....what codes is it throwing? You say when it stalls you have to wait a few minutes, what happens if you try to restart it immediately? Have you tried holding it to WOT while cranking then (shuts off injectors to clear a flooded situation)?

For the cost of cutting the splines into 4 little u-joint yokes to attach u-joints to the stock diff/stubs, you could put a mini-truck solid axle under it, and be done with it. In my experience, if the angles weren't rediculous and the driver isn't a completely nuts with the throttle, the axles were not usually the weak link. The stubs where they go into the diff are, the diff itself, then the transfer gears on the back of the transmission. Not to mention the shortcomings of the suspension itself.... If you're going to go to the trouble, you can solve so many of those issues Edit: looks like GD beat me to it...

That's news to me, so I looked it up on Cars101... Legacy 35th is 4-cyl Outback 35th is 6-cyl

04 35th anniversary edition is a 6-cylinder, right? I know the market is different there, and rust-free bodies aren't that rare, but here it would still have some value. And good used EZ30s are not hard to come by, nor expensive.

Of the 2 that I was referring, one was run for about 70k miles (to about 250k) with a TD04 and stock EJ25D ECU, later with injectors, a RRFPR, and over 10 psi of boost. The other had blowby at about 220k when the TD04 was installed. We started with a Perfect Power 6 piggyback on that one, and it was just a bucket of problems. That one ran great with the stock EJ22e ECU, but had other issues, mostly with the poorly-made up-pipe cooking the CV boot. That one was swapped out for considerably more power after about 20k miles, although still running strong.

I suppose it depends on the circles....I see it talked about a lot. And with things like the Raspberry Pi becoming fairly cheap and powerful, stuff like this is becoming extremely affordable: http://pidash.webs.com/

Well, it's been done on the stock ECU. Or swapping in an EJ25 ECU, that'll be expecting a little more air. I've personally seen 2 of these done for many miles, and be surprisingly reliable (the issues were unrelated to the tune. Hoses rubbing, etc.) It's been done with an aftermarket (rising rate, or just higher) fuel pressure regulator and the stock ECU. In my experience, the stock ECU doesn't get along with piggybacks so well. It works for fuel adjustments (but the stock ECU does pretty well in that department anyway), but when you start trying to fool it into changing the timing, it freaks out and the engine dies. Standalones are expensive. I've worked more than a little with Links, and a GEMS controller. And have good friends with experience with Hydras, and Haltecs. But be prepared to spend thousands on a decent one. I've been looking more into Megasquirt. It's got some teething issues, and a bit of a learning curve, but it's becoming much more user friendly and powerful. You can get a nice, pre-built unit for less than a grand. And if you're willing to do some soldering, more like a few hundred. I've been tempted to throw a turbo on my Celica, and if I do, it'd be with a megasquirt.

The engine is out?! That will have an effect on ride height.

So you had a failed spring, and replaced it with a presumed-good used one. Is the 2-2.5" height difference you mentioned compared to the old ride height (with broken spring)? I'm going to refer to my previous questions. I probably will stop checking this thread if you ignore them again.

Your posts are very difficult to read and understand. So you installed different springs, too? Anything else? What do you want to do? Do you want to lift it? Or do you want to return it to stock? These things are both possible, so let's focus on one thing here.

Based on the information given, I'm going to answer all your questions with a resounding "maybe"

I'm sure it is. I've installed 2 of the SJR ones, and they fit excellently as well. You can thank Scott for the tabs on the top for the pitch stopper.

http://sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/engine-swap-parts/ej-ea-adapter-plate-detail