Numbchux

I just stumbled on a brake bias calculator, and wanted to run the numbers on my XT6 through it, and I thought I'd post it up... Keep in mind, this does not account for brake booster or proportioning valve, so the raw numbers aren't completely accurate, but since I didn't change those parts, it makes for an interesting comparison. I'm using the default 60 lbs of pedal force, and 0.4 coefficient of friction on the pads. Stock XT6 (7/8 master, 54mm front calipers, 262 mm front rotors, 30mm rear calipers and 256 mm rear rotors): 579 psi of line pressure 176 ft/lbs of front braking torque 91 ft/lbs of rear braking torque for a 65% front bias (again, without the proportioning valve) Now I have... SVX Master 1 1/6th, 43mmx2 front calipers, 276 mm front rotors, 38mm rear calipers and 256 mm rear rotors. 451 psi of line pressure 287 ft/lbs of braking torque on the front 114 lb/lbs on the rear leaving 71.4% front bias.

They are reversible. The splines on the shaft should be the same, but I'm really not sure. There's also a chance with a remanufactured axle that they've cut them down....

You might try a pair of '85-'86 EA82 rear shafts, they use a DOJ on the outside as well, instead of a CV, which will telescope a bit. I don't know of an interchangeable inner DOJ cup that is deeper, but it might exist... You're not the first to discover the rear diff being slightly off center. I've even tried swapping shafts, and found one side to be much more difficult than the other. And when I had my Chuxwagon with the original AA lift cranked up almost 2" beyond it's intended height, I ALWAYS broke axles on the same side.

Unless you can find some deeper cups or longer shafts....I think your only option is to lower the diff to ease angles.

Well....XT6 has a different bolt size. I had to drill out the crossmember both times I did it.

Yep, they're terrible cars, don't ever buy another one. And tell all your friends. The last thing I need is more people driving up the resale value. Why are you here? I don't care if you like them or not, everyone's experience is different. I'm the first to admit that there are a brands that I won't try again due to a bad experience that could easily have been a fluke or unrelated. Your 3 car experience is not going to change my mind. I think I've owned 16 Subarus, all purchased in a considerable state of neglect. The situation on your '95 obviously was incompetence, either with the installer or rebuilder. Yes, the EJ251/253 engines are not great, this is extremely well documented, and has been since they first arrived (almost 2 decades ago), I do avoid those, personally. A head gasket failure on a 2014 is VERY rare, I'd bet money it's a mis-diagnosis, honestly. Is that the same shop that wrecked 3 transmissions?

Yes, it's been done hundreds, if not thousands, of times. Usually with a turbo engine swap as well.

Need more information. There's nothing that's a direct, bolt-in. There are probably hundreds of options with enough fabrication......

Good work. FYI, if your car isn't a salvage. 2010 and 2011 Legacies and Outbacks got a warranty extension for the headlights. The dealership will replace them for free. There's also a way to get reimbursed for the ones you've purchased, although I don't know the details on it.

Subaru hasn't bolted a manual transmission behind a 6-cylinder since the XT6 (1988-'91). No Outback ever came with that combination.... 2015 was the last year for a conventional Auto and the 6-cyl, since then it's all been CVTs

Well, you've got a bit of a tall order. The only non-immobilizer Subaru engine that made 250hp on the stock ECU was the 2004 STi EJ257 at 300hp. I would agree, with the information we have, your best match would probably be the 01-04 EZ30, or EG33. '05+ EZ 6-cylinders did offer more power, but are all immobilizer cars, so the stock ECU cannot be used in another car....so unless you're willing to drop the coin on a standalone, and get it tuned, those are out. The same is true [i think] of all '05+ turbos. Subaru never brought the diesel to North America. Although there have been many that have been imported, look into Boxeer in Tennessee. I would be relevant to know an approximate budget and what this is going into....

Many years ago, baccaruda was able to bolt XT6 calipers to an EJ caliper bracket, but he wasn't sure exactly which one..... So yea, there should be a combination, but it's not been documented. If you figure it out, please follow-up with the info!

It's about as simple a circuit as it could be. Ignition-switched power to the fan (not sure where the relay is), ground side goes through the temperature switch on the rad. With the ignition on, you should have 12v+ at the fan, regardless of coolant temperature. Temperature switch is probably set to 185* or so. If you don't have continuity across it at 200*, replace it.

One more just in case

Another one reserved

Reserved for future expansion

Intro Alright, I just noticed that I can edit old posts. So I'm starting a FAQ post. I will try to keep on this to keep it updated. My plan is basically just a list of useful thread links, specifically for things that are hard to search for (my first thought is 5-lug swap stuff...). If you come across a particularly useful thread or link (does not need to be something posted on the USMB), whether you are the original poster or not, post it up. I envision this to be a retrofitting-specific FAQ. Focused on using parts from/for one car (usually Subaru model, but not necessarily) on a Subaru. Be it for some sort of upgrade, or just parts availability. I also think this will lean a little more towards old-gen cars (my specialty was EA82s, so it will start very heavy in that department). New-gen retrofitting stuff is usually pretty well documented on other sites like NASIOC and others. First place to look, is the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. It's current configuration (as another section on the forum) is easier to host and maintain than others, but it does sort of blend in with the rest of the forum. This has been around for about 15 years at this point, so there are more than a few dead links, and outdated information, but it's a great start. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/30-ultimate-subaru-repair-manual-the-knowledge-base-of-usmb-complied-posts-and-writeups-to-common-problems-and-projects/ EA to EJ swap manual. This was written 10 years and a couple months ago, so it's a little dated, but hopefully still useful. Current sources: http://wordpress.suberdave.com/wp-content/files/EA82/EA2EJ.pdf https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/EA2EJ.pdf This thread is extremely useful for finding people here who have done these swaps. You might find someone who's done the same or similar combination that you are, and you can search for their posts.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/80134-ej-swap-whos-who/ Modified flywheel pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79328-todays-project-ej-ea-modified-flywheel-pics/ SPFI EA81 write-up by General Disorder I think the 5-lug swap is one of the next most important projects that should be in here. It can be hard to search for, and there are so many ways to do it. Very old post in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47998-5-lug-conversion-list-plus-tips/ Anything in there that refers to "GC8 Impreza", can actually be any 5x100 EJ-chassis car. Not to many details on the setup, but many pictures of my first swap: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/76502-frankenwagon-suspension-build-up/ FYI, XT6 or EJ knuckles use a larger diameter stud on the tie rod end, the EA82 rod ends will not seat correctly. With XT6 knuckles, just use XT6 rod ends. EJ knuckles are shaped differently to change the Ackerman angle, and require a shorter tie rod. Ea81 rod ends work perfectly for this. Shock/Strut options. After the 5-lug swap, you can run almost any EJ front strut, which gives you a myriad of options for performance options. But, KYB Excel-G is about the only option for the rear that's at all stiffer than stock, and that's just barely. Luckily, "NB" ('98-05) Miatas use a VERY similar shock. They have less travel than the EA82s, but come in 2 different lengths for your ride height preference. Fronts are very close to stock EA82 length, and rears are about 4" shorter. The Miata uses a larger diameter spring, so you will need to use a coilover sleeve kit. Pictures of that install here. This is with the longer front shock, but the upper mount flipped upside-down to lower a bit. I later switch to the standard upper mount, Miata rear shock, with a bit more preload on the spring. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/75933-holy-grail-of-ea82-rear-shocks-found/?p=741734 Coilover sleeves These are pretty handy, as they allow the retrofitting of a very universal 2.5" ID spring to almost any strut, with adjustable pre-load (ride height) for fairly cheap. EA82 rear springs are 2.5" ID already, so these kits fit very easily on the rear. I used a kit that was designed for a "GC" Impreza for many years on my Loyale, both in 4- and 5-lug configuration. I later bought a Ground-Control set that was specifically designed for EJ struts in the front and Miata in the rear. Here's some information on that, cliff notes: I would just order for an Impreza in the future http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/75933-holy-grail-of-ea82-rear-shocks-found/?p=739855 Complete Coilovers This is a completely new strut/spring assembly, typically tuned specifically for the chassis for which they were designed. '00-'09 Legacy/Outback have a very similar rear shock design to an EA82, and there are some coilover options for the '05-'09 in particular. I believe WJM (RIP) was the first to do it, but Suberdave was the first to document Tein Flex coilovers in an EA82 body: http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=54 '08+ Impreza, '09+ Forester, all Tribecas, all BRZs and '10+ Leg/Outback have a still-different rear suspension design, but uses a very similar rear shock. Nico has used these ('08-'12 STi to be exact): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126559-retro-gl-10-turbo-build/?p=1227259 Others have been used, but it requires putting the EA82 upper mount on the coilover, so the exact fitment will depend on the specific brand and model of coilover, not just the application. Driveshafts EA82 4WD 5MT transmissions are all the same length (driveshafts are interchangeable), including XT6. EA82 4WD 3AT transmissions are the same length as the EA82 5MT 4WD 4EAT transmissions are longer than the 5MT (require a shorter driveshaft). EJ AWD 5MT transmissions are longer than EA82 5MT, but shorter than 4EAT. STi 6MT are the same length as the 4EAT. All EA82 chassis have the same wheelbase, so driveshafts will interchange between body styles (same transmission). EA81s......What should be mentioned RE: EA81 driveshaft length? All Subarus use the same slip yoke where they slide into the transmission (Possibly with the exception of the BRZ) 93-07 Impreza 4eat driveshaft just happens to be the perfect length for an ea chassis with an ej awd transmission. The one I used is from a 99, and I had to swap the pinion flange on the 1st gen legacy rear diff because somewhere through the years they changed to a larger bolt pattern than the earlier r160s used. Also had to make carrier bearing mounts, but perfect length, straight out of impreza into ea81 car. No EA82 or newer Subaru is designed to have serviceable U-joints, they're staked in. But it's been done, there are 2 driveshaft shops here in my town that can rebuild them, so it's fairly common. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168456-driveshaft-ujoint-replacement/ Axles EA81 front axles at the transmission are all 23 spline EA82 turbos and XT6s are 25 spline, all other EA82s are 23 spline. 5MT stubs can be swapped, but require splitting the transmission '93-'94 FWD 5MT Imprezas are 23 spline All other pre-'05 EJs are 25 spline After '05, EJs all switch to male splines on the axles that fit into the transmission. Interesting, the stub axles from an earlier 4EAT will pop right into these transmissions, though. EA81 front axles are shorter (narrower track) than EA82 Early EJ ('90s for sure, probably others) are a bit longer than EA82/XT6 axles, some have reported issues... GD Imprezas ('02+ Impreza Sedan) have a wider track, and therefore longer axles. 86BratMan posted his recipe for the ball joint reamer he used to modify EA control arms to accept EJ ball joints, and the EJ inner and outer joints that he was able to slip onto the EA81 shafts to use EJ transmission and EJ knuckle with EA81 track width: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162269-converting-4x140-to-5x100/?p=1350309 Transmissions I'm not going to get into the minute differences between stock replacement transmissions over the years. Here's a really good chart with gear ratios and stuff for EJ transmissions, with transmission code (printed on the bellhousing near the starter): https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf As far as major differences for swapping (mainly talking manual transmissions, as autos introduce a considerable amount of complication with wiring), axle spline counts and driveshaft differences are a major concern. Also, there are a few different transmission mount options... EA81s had a unique transmission mount situation, and basically any swap will require some sort of custom crossmember EA82s changed transmission tunnel in '87.5. The mounts on the transmission didn't change, but the crossmember did. Manual transmission XT6 got a 3 piece crossmember like most EJs, the front and rear XT6 crossmembers will bolt up to the center EJ piece, and allow an EJ transmission to bolt in (custom driveshaft still required....but...) STi 6-speed will fit in a '87.5+ transmission tunnel http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/97346-will-a-sti-6-speed-fit-in-an-88-gl-yes-pics-inside/ And, of course, rear diff ratio has to match. With the exception of the STi and BRZ, Subarus have all gotten the r160 rear diff. Axle splines and gear ratio are really the only thing that effect interchangeability. Putting an r180 in an EA82: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/111035-goodbuy-r160-hello-r180/ EA82 vs EA81 flywheels: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163014-ea82-flywheel-in-a-ea81/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162986-a-few-questions-on-swapping-to-a-dual-range-tranny/ EJ Modified-MacPherson rear suspension under a Brat http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93247-build-thread-off-wrx-pickup/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165430-1982-wrx-brat-swap/ A new creative way to do it: jdmleggy97 torched the old bearing out, and welded a new face onto the EA82 trailing arm to mount an '00-'04 Outback rear hub/bearing/brake assembly onto the EA82 arm. Now he can use off the shelf rear axles. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168379-writeuptread-loyale-rs-ej-5-lug-hub-fabrication/ If I were to do it, I *might* look into using '08+ Impreza, '09+ Forester, or '10+Leg/OBK parts, as I think that would give more axle options (and therefore diff options). But that's splitting hairs.

This was about the 5th result for a google image search for "surge tank"... I probably won't bother when/if I put the EJ18 in my Brat, but it won't be turbo, so it's not the end of the world if it starves occasionally. If it becomes a considerable problem, I may re-evaluate... FWIW, I never had an issue with the EJ22-swapped '86 wagon (originally carbed). I'm under the impression that it was only the EA81 tanks that didn't have the proper baffling....but I've never had either apart.

I've done it, bent the one on my XT6 once, and replaced it with one that I have that did not have sway mounts, and then later got my hands on one with mounts and swapped that in. 2017-07-25_01-38-35 by Numbchux, on Flickr It's not too difficult. There's a bunch to do, but nothing that requires any special skills or tools (assuming you don't need to do the bearing). Like GD said, the more complete the part you get, the easier the job will be. If you can get one with a good bearing and brake assembly, that'll save you a ton of time. The bearing is supposed to require a special socket (which, to my knowledge, is not available anymore) to remove from the arm. But it can be done with some careful work with a punch/drift to spin the retainer out, and then you'll need a press to get the bearing out. You'll need a 3/16" punch to separate the axle from the stub that goes through the arm. Brake lines are fed through mounts on the trailing arm in a few places, you will have to disconnect the rubber line where it goes up to the body, and bleed the system. You'll want flare nut wrenches for that (IIRC, 12mm and 17mm), and then there are 2 pivot bolts where the trailing arm attaches to the crossmember, and one at the bottom of the shock. Your junkyard arm will come with bushings on it. Just use those. If you need/want to swap the brake assembly, you'll need a 36mm socket to pull the drum/hub assembly, and then there are 3 bolts that hold the backing plate and stuff to the arm, you can remove those 3 bolts (and the brake line), and swap everything as an assembly. One of those bolts has a nut on the back, the other 2 are threaded into the arm. There are 2 washers under the 36mm nut, these are both directional to maintain the correct pressure on everything (one is very obviously conical, the other is very subtle). There is a small bit of alignment adjustment available back there, it is a strange system...Here's the page out of the service manual on how to do it. You can make the adjustment yourself, but you won't know what adjustment to make without an alignment rack. That said, I'd just swap it, and see how it drives, probably close enough.... 2017-07-25_02-00-04 by Numbchux, on Flickr

For just normal street driving, it's livable. But worse than any other FWD car I've ever driven (I've owned 2 EA82s that were FWD/PT4WD and EJ22 at some point, one for about 6 months, and the other for about 2. Both with low-quality all-season stock sized tires). I used 4WD on the street more than a few times on the PT4WD car when I was trying to jump out in traffic or something. Larger tires will certainly help, both in the extra grip from the larger contact patch, and extra inertia.

That works too. The FWD is frustrating with EJ torque and EA front suspension geometry...lots of wheel spin. But it is nice while cruising.

With that in mind, I'd look for a 4.111 EJ 5MT. Good gearing for larger tires and mild offroad use, but much better street manners. It is a harder install. Transmission mount is different, you'll have to have a driveshaft made, hybrid front axles, some creativity for rear diff (IMHO, easiest to swap an EA carrier into a 4.111 EJ housing and R/P, that way your stock axles will work fine). But you won't need an adapter plate, and you'll have a myriad of clutch options.

Yep, rear diff will be different ratio. You'll have to either make hybrid 25-spline EA81 axles, or swap in 23-spline stubs into the transmission (possible, but requires complete disassembly of the transmission). I would highly recommend against it. I hated that transmission. Very short gearing designed for the turbo, FT4WD center diff sucked in most situations. If you're building a street machine and want AWD, use an EJ transmission. If you're going lifted and want the low range, stick with the PT4WD.