Numbchux

That's not a street-driven vehicle, is it? I'm sure those lenses are not designed for road use...

I agree that it's probably in the programming of the TCM, not the converter itself. First gen Legacy TCMs have been hacked, reprogammed, and retrofitting into EA82 cars....so it's definitely all doable.

Maybe that was too subtle. I just spent a considerable amount of time compiling a FAQ for the retrofitting section.

Yes, I just confirmed in the catalog, the rear upper mount is the same with air or coil suspension. The only application that would be a complete bolt-in would be for a '90-'94 AWD Legacy. If you swap the rear upper mount, you can definitely use '90-'99 Legacy.

XT6 parts change nothing as far as the diff is concerned. They are necessary for the 5-lug conversion. You're trying to put the r180 into your car? Boy, if only someone had just put in a bunch of time compiling a FAQ for the Retrofitting section that might have that exact information

What transmission? Subaru transmissions all have different center diff/transfer gears... Rule of thumb is, though, virtually all of them will need to be opened up and center diff modified (welded) to transfer 100% of the power, and the transfer gears behind the center diff rarely can hold up to much abuse. So depending what you're doing with it, that may not be the best option. Aftermarket, stronger, transfer gears exist for many modern Subaru 5-speeds. There's a guy who makes an adapter bellhousing to use a Toyota RWD/4WD transmission. Or the Subaru BRZ/Toyota 86/Scion FRS 6-speed should theoretically bolt up. (These all ASSume an EJ/EG/EZ engine...)

The rear hubs are the only hard part. XT6 are the only OE parts that will fit. Crossbred performance in Australia used to make aftermarket ones to go with their kit, but they no longer do. Might be able to get your hands on a used set.... This guy made a run of 10, and sounds like he's going to make another (you might want to skip towards the end of the thread where there's discussion about the actual process): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156161-xt6-rear-hubs-eoi-in-5x100-5x1143/ I've been working on a FAQ, with some links and information about the 5-lug swap: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162614-retrofitting-faq/

Go to the main forum page, and start reading. You will find a link to an offroad section. You will also find the USRM, which has offroad and suspension sections. At the top of the page there's a search bar, which can be narrowed to certain sections of the forum in a few different ways. It won't search for words under 4 letters, but the wildcard (*) can be used to get around that. Your car is an EA82 Companies that have made lifts for that include: Backyard Boys (BYB) PK Davis (PKD) Allied Armament (AA) and these still do Scott in Bellingham (SJR) Anderson Design and Fabrication (ADF) and others

The simple answer is that EJ-chassis (like a Forester) Subarus are like Legos, and EA-chassis (like your Loyale) Subarus are like Erector. In practice they're closer than that. But this stuff has been documented to death here....so start researching.

No guarantee that the dealer will have the correct equipment to cut the key. I work at a fairly busy dealership, and we can duplicate keys, but we can't cut one just from the code. Any dealership has access to the ignition key code, although they will have to verify ownership. With all that, and the fact that you're 90 miles from a dealership, in mind, you might want to get in touch with a local locksmith. The local locksmith here can cut a key from the code out of his work vehicle (which is actually a BG Outback...). So it's not uncommon for him to go out to a customer, he'll verify ownership, and then call us for the key code.

The offset is not ideal, but it works. The tires will no longer tuck under the fenders on compression. Here's my 85 GL with 15" Pugs (I do not remember that tire size....) 2017-07-25_12-43-30 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Sounds like you're on the right track with vehicle choice and probably even for the conditions to tow that SVX (notice I said not to flat-tow it, you seemed competent enough to know it could be towed on a dolly with the driveshaft removed). I do agree, this deal smells a little funky. I'm always wary of trades...it seems to me like unless it's the perfect car for both people (which seems unlikely) someones trying to get rid of something quick that isn't worth it. If you don't think you can sell it for what the Outback is worth, than why is he accepting it? Might be legit, but seems more likely that it isn't... My wife wants a Baja something fierce. I'm on the lookout for a flood damaged one so I can swap the drivetrain (which would involve basically all the electronics, side-airbag seats, etc. so could easily be the rest of the interior) from our H6 VDC Wagon. Interesting tidbit...I rented a tow dolly a couple years ago when I bought my Celica. The guy at the rental center I was dealing with was a little concerned about me towing a car with a 3500/350 hitch (2000 Honda Odyssey minivan), and I assured him it was a small car, 2700 lbs or so. And he said the bigger and commonly-overlooked concern with towing on a dolly is tongue weight. As under braking, the momentum of the car being towed actually puts rotational force on the dolly and therefore significant downward force on the tongue. He very much tried to talk me out of using that vehicle, and using something with at least 500 lb tongue rating. I took it as a grain of salt, did it anyway, and it was completely fine for about 125 miles, but I drove very carefully/defensively to avoid braking as much as possible.

Some considerable discussion here about it (obviously, a lot of it is very old and may not be relevant...): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/46773-official-alloy-pug-lug-nut-thread/ It's been a long time since I dealt with them, but my understanding is that they were still conical, but at a different angle (45* vs 60*, IIRC). There's discussion in there, and I've seen it elsewhere that ball seat adapters work fairly well. It's not perfect, but better, and abundantly available.

I run 215/65r16 on Forester 16x6.5 +48 wheels in the winter, which are a tad bigger than the stock 225/60r16s, on my stock '04 Outback VDC. Generally speaking, a 29" tall tire is about as big as you can get with stockish offset (obviously, lower offset helps with that, but creates other issues) before you start having trouble with strut clearance. With some trimming, 29" is doable on a 2" lift.

6-lug wheels come in a huge range of dimensions... Keep in mind, Subaru wheels have a very high offset/backspacing. So real low-offset (like most chevy truck wheels) 6-lug wheels aren't going to fit well at all. But stock Toyota ones are close, and I think I've seen some Isuzu and Nissan offerings that are even higher-offset, which would fit well. Tire size will make a big difference, too. ASSuming the car your referring to is the '85 4WD Wagon in your signature, you should have a fair amount of wheel well clearance.

I lot of H6 hating in here.... They're fantastic engines. I MUCH prefer the H6 to the 4-cyl. The AWD in the VDC models is fantastic, not the front-biased garbage in all the other automatic Subarus. I honestly think I'll own at least one '01-'04 Outback VDC for a long time to come, I love ours. Yes, the headgasket job sucks. But getting decent low-mileage engines is not difficult or expensive. I ordered one for a customer at work from a junkyard, with a warranty and about 100k miles, for about $800. And you can find stupid low mileage ones from Japan without the warranty for that or less... Like Gary said, towing capacity is a gray area. IMO the weak link (from a reliability standpoint) when you're towing is the transmission, and the clutches and such didn't change between the 4-cyl and H6 cars. Neither did the brakes. But the H6 cars are heavier and more powerful....that's not great. BUT, with FreeSSM and a $15 cable, you can bump up the line pressure to prevent slippage. Then add a transmission temperature gauge and aux cooler, and it'll do much better. I tow a thousand pound trailers all the time, with bikes on the roof and a decent load in the car.... (3rd picture isn't towing, but on the bump stops with boxes of books, plus the set of wheels/tires on the roof) Here's my transmission cooler, ATF goes from the transmission, through the filter, than the aux cooler, than the stock cooler (to prevent overcooling), and back to the trans: 20160326_155341 by Numbchux, on Flickr According to Cars101.com (fantastic Subaru information source, btw!), the 4-cyl wagons and all sedans have a towing capacity of 2000 lbs, and H6 wagons 2400. I put a Reese trailer hitch on mine which is rated for 3500 lbs. All that said, you say you'd be towing an SVX....Curb weight of an AWD SVX is a hair over 3500, which is pushing it unless going very gingerly. But the SVX was only an automatic, and an AT Subaru cannot be safely flat-towed. So now you've got at least the weight of a dolly....A real short, easy tow might be fine, but even that is pushing it. I'd tow my Celica on a dolly behind our Outback a fair distance, but it's a thousand pounds lighter than an SVX...

Well, I guess it's possible it has EA81 front suspension in it.... Try an axle for an '84 (that will insure you get an EA81 one).

What body style '88 GL? EA81s have a narrower track width than EA82s, and I think they made EA81 hatches and brats until '88 ('87 for sure...), where the wagon, sedan, and coupe were all EA82s.

Thanks guys! Do you guys know how the EA82 3AT compares length-wise? Is it the same as the EA81 3AT? Bump! I added a few things, but I'm looking for more! I think the EA81 SPFI write-up would be good, but I can't seem to find a good link for it. post it up if you find it!

Yep, you won't have much for an A/T option that will clear the stock Legacy struts, but you can swap to forester or outback struts and open up some options. As mentioned, it's 5x100, By far the most common Subaru bolt pattern since 1990. Exceptions to that (in the US) are Loyales, Justies, SVXs, Tribecas, 2005+ STis, 2015+ Legacy/Outback, 2015+ WRX. are the exceptions. There are other vehicles that use that pattern, but most have lower offset, which is generally not ideal for several reasons. Small GMs (cavaliers, sunfires, and possibly others), small mopars (neons, etc.), not uncommon for VW. Toyota Celicas/corollas (although the hub bore is too small for a Subaru hub).

Yea, you'll need the entire pedal assembly, clutch, brake, and throttle. Technically the throttle pedal is the same, but there's no point to remove it from the pedal box.... Transmission crossmember is different. Obviously shift linkage, flywheel, clutch kit, clutch cable and starter. Your old speedometer cable will fit the manual transmission. CV axles are interchangeable. You will have to at the very least bypass the neutral start switch to allow the vehicle to start. You may also want to splice into the reverse switch for the reverse lights

I'm not aware of this ever being done. It's relatively easy to adapt a distributor to that engine.... I think without the majority of the engine sensors connected, the ECU would have a bit of a freak out. At the very least, the timing maps would not be ideal....

Welcome, and I do have to give you credit for searching. But digging up a ~7 year old thread to make a small correction (which isn't really correct, as it's only true of the 8 bolt manuals, the 4 bolt ones did have a stud) is not really necessary....

Normally, I don't respond to threads that don't say what the vehicle in question is. But, if it's a vintage that can be programmed yourself, it will have instructions how to do it in the owners manual. There can only be 4 remotes programmed in at one time, so on most models you will have to program the same one in several times to get it to delete another.

IAC is my first thought. Most of the other things I've seen have been more consistent, or give other symptoms as well.